daniel_murphy1

<p>Yeah, it's strange that they keep coming out with these micro four thirds zooms that have aperture values of 4-5.6. To me, that's pretty useless. I will likely just stick with my two primes until there's a better option.</p>

<p>Has anyone tried using the 4/3rds adapter and Panasonic 4/3rds lenses on the E-P1 or E-P2? I'm curious about how well the Olympus cameras can autofocus them. I have an E-P2 and I thought I would maybe try the Leica/Panasonic 14-50 2.8-3.5 as I have the 20mm 1.7 and 45mm 2.8 macro, and wanted a zoom with faster aperture than the 14-45 3.5-5.6. Panasonic released a compatibility chart for their cameras, but Olympus compatibilty is said to be wider for autofocus function and I have never found any chart or official info.</p>

<p>Some one on another site posted that they were able to sync problem free with Alien bees Cyber Sync brand radio slaves. I might try those.</p>

<p>Well, I can't make it sync hardwired even at 1/30. It syncs using the flash heads on photoslave and then putting the FL-360 hotshoe flash on the camera to trigger them. Of course I wouldn't always want that. So, next I wonder what will happen with a radio trigger.</p>

<p>Has any one here tried using the Panasonic DMC-FZ50/Leica V-Lux1 using studio strobes? Or strobes and a wireless kit? I'm going to try it using two Opus 150w/s studio heads and a Panasonic FL-360 hot shoe flash on an adapter. Just wondering if there was any precedent or if I'm on new ground here.</p>

<p>My portfolio has been up with changes here and there for quite a while. It seems to get very very few views. I don't consider it to be great work overall, but is there a way to get more exposure? At one point I seem to remember an option to link photos to search engines for more hits, but I don't see that anymore. Suggestions?</p>

<p>I might sell my wide angle adapter and get the 24mm camera instead. Probably about the same weight for each and the camera covers 24-35 fully with a comparible sensor.</p>

<p>Does any one make cameras with digital sensors similar to the Lomo, Holga, Loreo etc.? Ie. Cameras which are cheap novelties, but may produce some interesting/special results. I haven't found much (yet)</p>

<p>I have a Samsung LN550A LCD monitor right now. As a desktop display it looks great, but I am using VGA from a laptop and it prohibits some setting controls. I am getting a new computer. Then when I have a video card with HDMI out or DVI-HDMI conversion I can adjust everything in the menus. My question then is, will a colorimeter function on a large LCD display like this? Has here anyone tried it?</p>

<p>Has any one tried using their plasma to edit and view their photos? Apparently, their colour gamut coverage and

contrast ratios are great. They sure look good playing back video anyway. I haven't tried it, so maybe there's

limitaions of how you can calibrate etc. Also, I wonder about burn in, though the new ones are supposed to be

resistant to that. Big LCD doesn't present the burn in problem, but covers less of the colour gamut (in the consumer

grade end anyway), and has a lower native contrast ratio.Being a hobby shooter, and also wanting a large screen for

photo viewing and video, I am hoping to get into a larger "one screen does all solution" Any ideas?</p>

I have the Leica V-Lux 1, and it's very nice. The cost is discounted now, you can get a considerable rebate. Check B&H if you're in the US. The wide end of the zoom is not super wide at 35mm equivalent, but you can get a WA adapter. The photos will come out just over 11x14 at 240 dpi from camera, and look really good. Yeah, there's some noise at higher ISOs, but there's some very good noise reducers for that. I really like this camera, I used the Panasonic version too, which is hard to come by now. If you want a cheaper alternative to an SLR and slighty smaller I would recommend it.

There are many off brand ones. I have the Leica V-Lux 1, which is basically the same camera and I use the Panasonic WA adapter and I have the long one. I was able to get reduced cost for as new demo stock. Otherwise I don't know if I would have bought them. I have not used them enough to say much, except I think shots through the wide one look quite good, not really any zoom through capability though, it's just for the very wide end. The lens on the FZ50 is already a fair size and the Panasonic adapter makes it as big as a medium sized SLR zoom. I would have preferred a lens more like 27-300, then I would need no adapters. Like you I am still happy with the camera overall. There is a great wealth of info. on the FZ30 and adapters here: http://www.cs.mtu.edu/~shene/DigiCam/

Look through his menus, it's a great page. Hope this helps. DK

Any one know if Photoworld in Calgary on 11th Ave SE is still in business? Thanks.

I have two Canon Rebel XT cameras. One is coulour, one infrared. At this time, I

have been primarily using the 17-55mm EF-S 2.8 IS lens. When I have a shoot

wanting a wide or long lens, I rent the 10-22 EF-S and a 70-200L. So, I was

thinking about a 14mm 2.8L. It's just a bit tricky finding a rental unit around.

Has any one tried one on an APS-C sized camera like this? I'm curious if the

image quality and wider aperture make it worth the loss of some angle of view.

You will get the best results with a modified camera for IR. That was my experience trying both ways. There isn't really a camera that can do both, unless you consider Sony's "nightshot". But as I understand it,that is a partly disabled, artificially green coloured IR mode. My unmodified Canon 300D Rebel had a centre spot. The Hoya R72 filter works fine. It seems to be the most common choice.

Hi, to get "perfect IR" in my experience, you need a modified camera. The problem is that the camera has an internal filter which is inhibiting IR light getting to the sensor. The unmodified cameras I have shot IR with gave a center spot as well. There are a few places which can modify a camera, but it's permanent. One is called "Lifepixel". I believe that's in Seattle USA.

I have had one. There are a community of people who use this type of system. Few can effectively hand make lenticular prints. It works, and takes surprisingly good photos. Getting from there to a lenticular print however is ridiculously hard. There is one guy in Toronto who processes this stuff. Snap3d.com Everything they do is 35mm though. I don't think any one can make lenticular prints straight from 120 film. And yes digi sensors is the way to do this now. But the printing and laminating is so tricky and expensive it kills any mass market interest. A cool idea that's just too complicated. It makes 3D prints you can see without viewers or glasses. It can't be transmitted over the net though - has to be a print. Old style stereo is easier even though it needs a viewing device.

I just got a Panasonic DMC-FZ50, I'm very pleased so far. But the lens is pretty protrusive. Maybe an FZ-7, smaller, but still a long, image stabilized zoom. I have gotten away from lugging lots of big stuff overall. Point and Shoot is a relief after an hour of walking on a hot summer day, trust me.

I've used a lot of film and digital systems, especially over the last 5 years. I just found I haven't printed a 20x24 in a long time, so I wanted to leave the bulk and expense of medium format behind. This camera has some of the limits of a small p&s digi. It has a great lens, but a small sensor. You should shoot this kind of camera at 100 or 200 ISO, never 800, avoid 400. It won't make huge 16x20 prints too well I don't think. I wanted mainly a camera for the web. It might make decent 11x14s though. Some print testing would be in order. If you really need moving subjects in low light, or bigger prints, get a small Dslr, like the Pentax DL2. This camera should be good enough for me.

I got to play with my new Panasonic DMC-FZ50 today. It's been available in

Canada since early last week I think. In my port, under FZ50 first test. The

shots are out of camera, web sized to 12x9@72dpi. All jpegs, some with the

"extended optical zoom" feature on. Marketing fluff in my opinion. You can just

shoot noramally and then crop the image in your editor later. Changing th

capture to the reduced size seems to increase handshake in the viewfinder as

though you really were on a 1000mm tele lens. Not good handheld. I will stick to

the regular mode. The full zooms of the crane are hazy, but I think that's the

scene, and not the camera's fault. The shots are all at ISO 100 I think. They

looked surprisingly good at full crop, but they're not intended to be displayed

at 38x51 inches anyway. I'll add more to my regular folder as I shoot. This is

now my only camera. I'm happy so far. Pics look great, no surpise

disapointments. Cheers all.

Well, after all the hype and speculation, I bought a Panasonic DMC-FZ50. Second

day available here. I work with movie cameras and lenses etc. all day, so I

wanted an all-in-one camera that kept my personal photo gear to a minimum. I'm

just going to stick to "consumer" photography stuff for the most part now. If I

want a commercial grade camera for a couple of days I'll rent. I will post some

FZ50 results in my port. when I have some. I have to say, I like the size and

weight already. I got the black one, no silver here yet. I saw the silver FZ30,

I thought the colour didn't fit the large size (for a P&S) as well. For me

silver works better with small cameras. The swivel screen is cool too, haven't

had that before. The EVF strobes heavily if you pan it, and the screen image is

much better. Haven't tried the flash, but it has a hot shoe. The FZ30 is said to

have a strong pop-up. I hope to just stick with that on my 50 as well. Anyway,

results and more observations to follow.

Well, I finally shot some Rollei IR 400. It was my first IR with film. Shot for

a year with digi IR first. I used a B+W 092 filter. This is supposed to be the

equivalent of 89B. I used a Mamiya 7 rangefinder. So 120 film. No TTL, I shot it

as ASA 50. The 092 is not fully opaque, but is much darker than even a 29. It is

maybe the last step before a real opaque filter. I chose it because the film is

820nm, and drops in sensitivity after something like 725 or 750.

 

I shot bracketing -1 0 +1 for three rolls. I made a mistake on most of the first

roll big time. I didn't notice my EVC was set to -2!!!!!!! We'll call it a test

of latitude. I don't don't even use EVC, I had just tried it as the camera is

new to me and I forgot to reset it after last time.

 

The next two rolls I did right. I also changed the ASA setting to 25 for a

couple of shots to give me a good range. I loaded and unloaded in subdued light,

not total darkness. I could do it in a change tent, but I need more practice

with this system to be confident, plus matching the start arrow to the mark.

 

So, now we'll see if what I've been told is right. I will write up a few lines

for the lab to describe what I did. Should they develop this as ASA 50? I quess

they'll know once they read the technique used. I will also copy the chart on

the Rollei box for them.

 

I have found it hard to get good examples of this film in web shots. I will post

my results once I have some scanning done. Then when I have an idea of how to

tweak my settings for best results, I'll post my better ones in my portfolio here.

Is there a way to rearrange the order of photos in the portfolio without

deleting and re-uploading them? Ideally, I'd like mine to be just random.

Thanks, it will be interesting to see the film. I like things manual, but so simple that EVC wouldn't even matter to me. Just film speed, aperture, shutter for exposure. I played with it today, but it will likely stay at 0 from now on.

I have a question about exposure compensation on the Mamiya 7. I guess it could

apply to any film camera. On a digital, you can dial in exposure compensation

and the camera can apply some gain to adjust. With a film camera, how does it

adjust exposure when you've set an aperture and shutter speed? For example, on

my Mamiya 7, I have the lens at 4.5, the shutter speed at 1/60th, and the EVC

at -2. With 800ASA film. What would that EVC setting make the camera do? I

don't really use EVC, so I don't know much about it.