gerald_wallace

<p>Hi Matthew,<br>

In response to your detailed offering, I looked and found information and tools supplied by my two Gitzo tripods. Th Gitzo information tells you how to resolve the problem I was having however, they didn't supply the tool. Luckily, for me, I eventually found the tool I needed that fits the set screw to lock (tighten) the Sirui head to tripod base plate.<br>

Your response got me thinking, investigating, and finally resolving the problem. Now my wife will proof test the setup.<br>

Again, thanks for your help.</p>

<p>The subject head keeps coming loose from the tripod mounting plate (Gitzo 3531S). I have tried using lock/star washers without success - the attaching screw will become loose due to the differences in size between the mounting screw and the Sirui vertical bar (horizontal leverage forces). I cannot permanently glue the head to the tripod mount because different gimbal heads are used with the tripod. (And I can not tell my wife not to grab the vertical bar - human factors). Suggestions are welcome.</p>

 

<p>Not knowing your shooting conditions (distance, weather, etc.) leads to speculation. I have taken many shots (pictures) of the Space Shuttle during the landing at KSC using only my 70-200 F/2.8 IS USM (series 1). (A lens I rarely use because my wife and I do mostly wildlife). In my case, the flyover was close so I used 70mm which filled the frame and during the landing I used the full range (70-200mm). The flyover is (if close enough) allows ample time to get the shots you want to get if your in the "right" place. However, the landing even with the slow 747 aircraft (compared to just the Shuttle landing) happens faster than you would like, so be prepared for fast action, pre-plan your shots - your position is almost everything. As with others, I doubt your lens will be long enough - you can get close enough. If possible, you may want to make a trial run by going to the proposed site with your lens to learn where you have to locate to get the best shots and consider other factors such as aircraft direction, crowds/barriers, weather, sun position, optional gear, mobility, distractions (other people). A good learning experience no matter how good/bad your shots turn out.</p>

<p>My speculative guess based on my 5D serial number starting with 102........ is Canon has sold a lot of 5D (series 1) cameras. My 5D III serial number starting with 042 means (to me) that Canon has to sell a lot of 5D III cameras to equal their 5D (series 1) sales. (Now, let's talk about something more meaningful to camera shooters).</p>

<p>I agree with Marcus, because I have had the same problem on the same focal length lens. Playing with it will only make the condition worse. If you need the use of the lens send it in for professional repair. Because I have alternatives, I use mine as a paper weight.</p>

<p>Scott, Thanks. You are 100 percent correct. I somehow missed that section (pg.244).<br>

I'm still learning the differences between my old 5D and new 5D3. This time, I'm trying to read the instruction manual but, I'm not through yet.<br>

Again, THANKS for your help.</p>

<p>To all owners of the subject camera, I would appreciate your help in locating how to view the histogram after a shot is taken. The only place the Canon instruction manual presents the topic is on page 248. All the booklet provides is a definition of Brightness and RGB and how to switch between the two? Thanks for your help.</p>

<p>I don't care for BigMac's and sugar drinks but I have been able to present a good case when it's to my advantage.<br>

About two years ago, I talked B&H into selling me a Gitzo tripod after they raised their price by $150.00 dollars. I got the old price and saved $150.00 dollars. I can't say I like B&H but, perhaps because they get about 80 percent of my business they are willing to listen to a sound argument.</p>

<p>This is just a comment. My wife alerted me to the new/lower price of the subject camera. I purchased my latest camera about two weeks before B&H Photo offered a lower price than what I paid - I got my $50 dollar rebate.</p>

<p>First, I want to thank you all (William W, John Tran, David Cavin) for attempting to diagnosis and provide answers to my stated EOS 20D problem. Your suggestions solved my problem.<br>

As a experienced photographer it is very painful for me to admit that I overlooked a very simple solution to what I thought was a problem. This is hard for me to admit but the problem was operator error - the self timer was activated! (I have been dealing with a large money issue that my financial institution has admitted they made a mistake). Now that I can think clearly I had no problem discovering and correcting the problem.<br>

Again, Thank you all for your efforts. (Yes, I still feel stupid).</p>

 

<p>Thanks to you all for your comments. (It's getting late tonight so I will investigate your responses in the morning - I just got home).</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Perhaps my shutter release mechanism has finally come to the end of it's life - camera bought when new. When I depress the shutter button on my 20D nothing audibly/visually happens for approximately 20 seconds and then the shutter is activated resulting in a normal photo. I am assuming the shutter release solenoid resister/capacitor is no longer in tolerance (leakage)?<br>

I welcome your comments! <br>

(I realize this topic should have been discussed earlier but, I couldn't find this in the database).</p>

 

<p>You all are probably correct in your assumptions based on what information is available. However, I see this invention as perhaps the "forerunner" to better photo products in the future - 10 years. At this time I think it is too early to determine the full potential of this simplistic product - simplistic is good. As with the automobile, many company products were bought never to be seen again - limited competition. We will see this product again, in some form, perhaps with a new owner.</p>

<p>I have never known Canon to have published or "regular" released dates for new photographic equipment. We all wished they would give the public a "proposed" or expected release date for equipment so we (the public) could make some plans on proposed purchase dates - save/gather the money to be spent. Perhaps early on you could get a better idea when a release date might take place however, I believe it is becoming more difficult recently to guess the next release date. (What this means is that the first sentence say's it all).<br>

Like you, I am waiting for the next release dates to replace my 5D/20D and my wife's 50D. The waiting doesn't bother me as much as others because camera's are in my case, not part of a business - their used just for fun.</p>

<p>This is a topic that has been discussed many times in the last five to ten years. The short answer (based on personal experience including my wife) is that most people don't need UV/sky light filters.<br>

There are exceptions. If you know you will be in an environment that could be harmful such as water travel/rain, very strong wind, etc. you may decide to use one. If you are prone to being careless (dropping, swinging, etc.) you may decide you need all the protection you can get. (Don't laugh, it took my wife only two try's to make sure her $1800 dollar lens was beyond repair).<br>

Most people find there is no need to use another piece of glass in front of their lens - it's called being careful.</p>

<p>A nice set of camera's - good memories. I still have my EOS 5 (AE-1). Way back then (the early days) I used Konica (T. T2,T3,T4).<br>

I did use a Canon (?) with the 50mm F/0.95 lens but couldn't get use to the weight of the lens. I'm glad we are in the digital age.</p>

<p>Preferred camera: DSLR (Nikon). (My household uses three Canon DSLR's and one Canon G11).<br>

Computer: depends on location and type of project. Desktop is first choice. My first computer was a Mac so I can accept either type.</p>

<p>Every one is a little different - preferences. However, when traveling, for city scenes I typically use my 24-105mm zoom. Sometimes I carry my 16-35mm lens but rarely use it unless I'm indoors (f/2.8 versus f/4). I try to limit the amount of photographic hardware I carry when traveling out of the country (to SE Asia) due to weight (both airline restrictions and carrying comfort). I have learned that less is usually better - I use my feet to account for not carrying extra weight.</p>

<p>Thanks Nelson, for presenting a good write-up on the Canon EF 8-15mm f/4 lens. I was interested in learning more about the lens and you answered my questions. It seems like a great lens if you are interested in the type of format it provides. Since I have the Canon 16-35mm f/2.8 which I rarely use, I have no interest in purchasing the subject lens - I shoot wildlife (mostly birds) and use long lenses.<br>

Again, thanks for your help in satisfying my curiosity.</p>

<p>Phillip and Puppy Face, thanks for your response about the lens. It turns out that there's nothing wrong with my lens - I looked at about 50 shots and they all look normal.<br>

Don, concerning CS-4, I will try an uninstall and reinstall (I have the CD) to see if I can regain use of Bridge (later tonight when I have time). I use to save almost all my files in the DNG format. Now I can no longer do that because DNG is not presented as an option to select when saving? Let's see what happens after the reinstall, tonight.<br>

Thank you all for your help.</p>

<p>A few weeks ago, Canon repair wasn't offering "good will" when I was charged for repair of my EOS 5D - the standard $212 for adjustment, no parts.</p>

<p>First topic: I rarely use my Canon 16-35 F/2.8L series 1 lens. However, I recently had it repaired by Canon because it had help falling off a table top onto the floor resulting in no visual damage but a lot of drag on the focus collar. Now I noticed that the lens acts (looks) a lot like a varifocal lens where the outer (visible) lens moves in and then about half way through the range moves out as you rotate through the 16-35 range. Is that normal?<br>

Also, second topic: In the last couple months I have been unable to use BRIDGE that comes with Adobe photoshop CS-4. The problem first started with a message (shown only once) that I would have to upgrade to CS-5 to gain Bridge support, I have CS-3 and CS-4? I have seen where others had a similar problem but downloading version 5.7 didn't work for me. Recommendations are welcome!<br>

Bill</p>

<p>In addition, yes, telephoto. Back before digital (way back) in my Konica day's, I owned the Tamron 500mm f/8 Cat lens. For a starter lens in the telephoto range the Tamron Cat was a good lens within it's limitations. One of the biggest problems for me was the donut gosting you would get in the background with each picture. After awhile you learned what type of picture you could take where the circular ring didn't present a big problem. I sold the lens because I didn't want to be limited to only certain kinds of backgrounds, etc. You will want to skip the catdioptric lens.</p>

<p>Those of you who have experience watching eaglets know that it will be interesting to see how many of the three chicks will survive for about a month or two - survival of the fittest?</p>

<p>For now, I agree with Michael Chang: "What is its essence, anyway?". I haven't been in Taipei or other cities in Taiwan, for many years. However, listening to these posts, it seems like some things haven't changed very much. According to a friend of ours, Taipei, has change to a very modern city (no open sewage pavements), etc.<br>

(Perhaps my wife and I, may decide to accompany a close friend to visit Taipei(and other cities), later this month to see for our selves).</p>