kyle_opitz

Thanks for the help guys. i've managed to get everything dialed in but cant seem to get the custom functions to work for the life of me, i've tried everyones advice but it isnt working out, oh well its still a gem of a little camera and i think i'll keep it around for awhile.

Yeah Randy that was one of the first sites i checked out and i've been setting the custom functions by the book but they never seem to work right. Oh well, everything is set where i want it anyways, i just wanted to cancel out the flash cause it seems to want to fire all the time.

OK. I figured everything out on this little bad boy except how to get the custom functions to stick, basically i want to turn the flash off until i need it.

 

I want to avoid buying a manual if i can, does anyone know how to get the custom functions to actually work?

Yeah that was the first site i checked out Randy, it has tons of great information but the simplified instructions posted there are a little too simple and don't go into too much detail.

haha Yeah the guy who sold it to me said that it ran out of batteries so he put a new one in and it wouldnt turn on anymore so he just let it sit around for a few years. I got the camera and noticed right away that he had put the wrong battery in it, and that the battery door wasn't sitting quite right. I put the correct battery in it and fixed the door and it fired right up. So i assume the camera should be working as new now.

I just bought this "broken" 35Ti on ebay for $150 bucks, i bought a new battery

and fixed the battery door and it fired right up. I've heard so many good

things about this camera, i have yet to run a roll of film thru it and im about

ready to smash it on the ground.

 

The stupid tiny flash buttons on the front are impossible to use, you have to

hold them in with so much force just to get them to do their job; i figured out

what the flash cancellation button does but i have no idea what the other one is

for, it certainly doesn't work like the various website say it should.

 

Also the custom functions don't work for crap. I've tried to set and re-set

the stupid things 50 times and they just don't work. It's so impossible to use

the stupid little buttons that i want to have everything set so i don't have to

monkey with them when i'm out shooting.

 

I was wondering if anyone knows where i can find some info online anywhere?

 

Does anyone know how to use the flash buttons?

 

Does anyone know how to get the custom functions to stick?

 

Can anyone tell me where i can get ahold of a manual for this thing?

 

 

Any info would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Anyone have any advice on cheap back ground material for a homemade portrait

studio? I would like to do portraits and head shots for fashion and casual

dress, I just need some ideas for materials and colors and stuff, including a

black background that stays black when lit. Also can anyone point me to some

books or websites on headshots? Thanks a bunch.

I am looking for a good walk around zoom lens for -$700, for my 30D. This has

probably already been asked before but does anyone have any suggestions on any

of these lenses?

 

Tamron Zoom Super Wide Angle SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di II LD $449.00

 

Sigma Zoom Super Wide Angle 18-50mm f/2.8 EX DC $409.00

 

Canon Zoom Super Wide Angle EF 17-40mm f/4L $679.00

 

I know people speak highly of canon lenses especially the ones with that "L"

beside them, but can anyone tell me how the other two stack up against the Canon?

Thanks alot.

Thanks tons. They had everything i was looking for. I love this city.

Im looking to buy some 120 color and black and white film in downtown Boston.

Can anyone point me in the right direction? THANK YOU!

I recently bought a Yashica TLR 6X6 camera and I am looking for a nice black and

white film to run through it. Any recommendations? I am looking for a sharp,

fine grained black and white film for landscapes and architecture. I�ve tried a

bunch of different B&W films in the past, Ilford, Agfa, and pretty much

everything from Kodak, and I have to say that I don�t see much of a difference

in any of them. (because I don�t know what I�m doing!) I have a pro lab soup my

film and will most likely be scanning the negs to play with online, and maybe if

I have something worth printing, making mega enlargements someday. Any tips

for film or processing would be greatly appreciated! Thanks a lot.

ooooops! Look what i started. I really like those folding MF cameras and i think i'll look into getting one. And thanks for info on the Minolta vs the Mamiya, i usually get the two "M"s mixed up. I'll save my $40 and use my Holga when i want to shoot some artsy fartsy stuff. I'll probably end up getting some kind of TRL soon; they just seem like a neat camera to shoot with, something different to me. So who knows, i might end up with a lubitel someday just for kicks.

Thanks a lot guys! I've been looking at the Minoltas for awhile now and figured that would be the way to go because they have interchangable multi-coated lenses (if i'm not mistaking?) I already own a holga that i de-holgaized by flocking, adding a second aperture, and fixing the light leaks and vignetting. SO all im left with is a weird camera that takes soft pictures. I just figured the Lubitel would be another goofy camera to add to the collection. I think i will save my pennies and get something that will really perform. Thanks alot.

Anyone have any experience with the Lubitel 166U, or any of the Lubitel

models? I'm looking for some way to get into cheap 6x6 photography. Any Info

would be great! Thanks.

Haha Thanks guys, i'll give it a shot. I'm lacking a flash meter so i guess i'll be winging it and bracketing. Thanks for the tips.

I need to photograph tiny translucent tadpoles for my sister�s science class.

I�ve used my auto extension tubes on my Minolta X700 before and achieved nice

results. I couldn�t get enough natural light next to a window, and I didn�t

want to cook the little guys with continuous studio lights, so I am going to try

using a couple of dedicated flashes (I hope this doesn�t cause them to go

blind!) The problem I have with the tadpoles is that I am shooting them against

a white background. I�m worried that my camera will miss-meter the scene

because only the eyes and the internal organs of these little guys will be dark

against the bright white background. What can I do to make sure this doesn�t

happen? Does it even matter what color the background is with such a small DOF?

Any tips on how to set up the flashes to reduce glare and bring out detail? Any

help would be greatly appreciated!<div></div>

That sounds like a great way to test a film, but what is meant by EI ? Should I find the correct exposure manually, or shoot in Program or Aperture Priority mode? I think I will use Aperture Priority mode to shoot the same scene 4 times, once at 100/200/400/800/1600, then move to another scene and do the same thing. The light tends to change a great deal at different areas of the woods. Thanks for the suggestion, I think this will really help.

This picture was shot with a Minolta X700 set on Aperture Priority with a 28mm lens(DOF). The sync speed on the X700 is only 1/60 of a second, so I usually always get some kind of blur. I have a Minolta 360PX auto flash on the auto setting that matches up with the aperture being used, set at � power 10 feet from subject. I thank everyone for their advice. I think I�ll lose the warming polerizer and slap on my trust 50mm f1.7 and get a little closer to my subject. As for the film, I tried a 120 roll of Kodak 100UC for another situation and the results were great. I hear a lot of buzz about the 400UC and since I am from Rochester, NY (and I happen to have a roll in my freezer) I�ll give the Kodak a try. Other then that, I think I�ll order some Fujicolor Superia 400, Fuji Press 400, maybe some NPZ, and give them all a try. Maybe even try some 400 speed slide film?? I usually order from B&H, what about everyone else? Thanks again.

Lately I�ve been shooting fast action in dark woods and a need a good 800 speed

color film for scans and enlargements. I normally shoot with a warming

polerizer and a split ND filter, as well as an off camera flash. I�ve been

trying to use a lower ISO film so I can get bright vibrant colors, but the dirt

always turns out gray, and the greens always come out muddy and underexposed. I

figured the problem was that I was underexposing, so I decided to go with 400

speed Kodak MAX film and the results were terrible; muddy colors, horrible

grain, the usual. I even tried a roll of Kodak Portra 160VC, cause someone at

the local pro shop talked me into how great the color would be, even though I

had a feeling that it was the wrong film for the job, and I was right, it was

the worst yet! I have been shooting at my max aperture of 2.8 to get all the

light I can, but would like a little more depth of field an 800 ISO film would

offer.

 

This year I began to shoot various Fuji films for all kinds of situations and so

far I have been very impressed. I wanted to give the Fuji Press 800 film a try,

but was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions / tips / problems / or

alternate film choices? I�m looking for a 35mm film with bright vibrant colors

that scans well. Also, can someone explain what is meant when people say a film

has better contrast? Or more contrast? Or less contrast? (Press vs NPZ)

 

Any info is greatly appreciated!<div></div>

Yes, I had been saving up for a flash meter, then people around me started suggesting I spend the money else where because I could always check exposure digitally. I kinda new that I would still need a good flashmeter but I don�t have a ton of money to spend. I was looking to get a Sekonic L-558 Dualmaster so I could have an all-in-one meter, but found a better way to spend $500+.

Thank you so much!

Yeah you guys are right, I had a feeling I was going to have to bite the bullet and go with a real strobe setup, and a big reason being the benefits of a modeling light and fast flash recharge times. I have briefly glanced at the Aliens bees site once before but figured that kind of equipment would be out of my price range. I am going to go back and give them a second look.

Any tips on the units, 400 vs 800 vs 1600? Is bigger really better? I�m new to all this stuff, but for portraits, what is the difference between using a softbox and using a white reflective umbrella? Thanks a lot.

I would like to set up a cheap in-home studio using two Sunpak 622

flashes for my Key and Fill lights. I want to bounce the light off two 45�

white reflective umbrellas for portraits, stills, and a variety of in studio and

maybe on location shoots. I know the Sunpak 622 is a powerful flash, (GN 160�?)

but would it be powerful enough to be bounced off an umbrella at a low ISO (ISO

25, 50,100) at a variety of F Stops?

 

Also, I was wondering if anyone knows of a better alternative to the 622, a

flash that might be better for the job? Or if anyone has any information on the

Sunpak 611, 555, or 455 models? Ideally I would need a powerful flash that can

use AC power, (and or batteries), and has a standard PC connection to attach to

my camera. Any information would be greatly appreciated.