peter_macejka

March 11, 2014

Hi everyone,

Thanks for the responses.

Most of the studios here in Melbourne rent out the space with background only. Some offer equipment rental on top of the

studio rental price. So in saying that, I guess background rolls and repainting of the cyclorama would have to be included.

The space I'm getting will have communal toilets, showers and kitchen, so no water or gas bills for me. The power bill was

the main unknown for me. I know someone who owns a big mechanics workshop and there power bill is about $700

every quarter. I didn't know how much the studio flash use would impact the bill.

Didn't think of the internet. Phone line for Internet use only as everyone can use their mobile phones.

I guess the main thing I didn't think of was the insurance, I'll get a quote for that today.

Thanks again for the responses. If there is anything else I have missed not mentioned so far, I'd be greatful to hear about

it.

March 11, 2014

I'm just in the process of starting a studio and what to share the spaces with other photographers and possibly hire it out at low cost to help with the rent.

I realize costs are different depending on your location, but has anyone done the numbers on what a 500w or 1000w flash costs to run for the work day? Or would anyone mind sharing the cost of electricity for running a studio? I'm in Melbourne, Australia, but would appreciate input from anyone living outside of Australia as well.

I'm not trying to penny pinch, I'm trying to keep costs down on the renting out of the studio. Not that I don't want to make money on it, but I myself am sick of the hiring costs of a day in the studio. I feel I can make more money in the long run by hiring it out for less.

Is there other running costs apart from leasing a space that I haven't thought of?

Thanks for any help you can give.

Peter

March 11, 2014

Thanks everyone for your help, its given me a few ideas to work from.

I still plan on building a cyc, and now plan to hiring a couple more Bowens flashes to start experimenting.

Trial and error to follow as always. :)

March 10, 2014

Thanks Tim and Michael. You both mention I would need more power.

I currently have a use 4x Bowens gemini 500pro flashes. I usually use just two and reflectors to light the dancer and one or two on the background.

Tim you mention using 4 flashes to light the background. How much power would be needed, would 400watt, 500watt flashes be sufficient or would I need 750watt or 1000watt?

Michael, thanks for the tip of colour gels being old school, I guess its another instance of thinking its a great idea without having had the experience to back it up.

March 9, 2014

Hi again Michael,

I've just had a look at the last question I asked in 2012, funnily about cycloramas and you where one of the helpful people contributing. I remember that being a good reality check, and somehow I now feel like I haven't come a long way in the last 18 months. Oh well, I still enjoy the challenge of studio work. I checked out your web site and was very impressed by your work.

March 8, 2014

Thanks Michael, I guess I'm under the impression that a cyc is more convenient than using background rolls. I myself photograph dancers and movement more than still portraits and get the most positive feed back from a bright white background. I like the idea of the background being setup, using filters to change colour if needed and not have to deal with paper rolls. I guess I'm showing myself to be quite the amateur whose excited about finally getting a big studio. What I'm trying to achieve is a space for myself by sharing costs with other photographers (amateur or pro). I'm willing to spend a bit of money to provide everyone with a good studio space, and so many studios are providing cycloramas. I have tried to research lighting cycs on this forum and on goggle, but most of what I find is on building a cyclorama not lighting one. So far I've lit my white backgrounds with studio flashes, which I understand how to use somewhat, but the idea of using cyc lights is new to me. My understanding is they aren't as powerful and I would need to use more of them than studio flashes. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks for your response, Peter

March 8, 2014

I am about to move in to my new studio space, about a 140sq/m. Its a first floor warehouse space in a disused wheat silo. I plan to share costs with other photographers by providing office space with one day a week in the studio for each them. The actual photo studio space will be about 6m x 15m with 3 large windows on one of the long sides.

I would like to build a cyclorama down one end of the studio, but am having trouble figuring out how to light it. I'm thinking the Cyc would be about 4m x 5m in one corner of the room. Can you use low powered studio flashes like the Bowens Gemini 200 or 400? If so, how many?

Or would Cyc lights be a better option? How many lights would you need and would you need them both top and bottom or just at the top? I have carpenter friends who could help keep the cost of building the cyc down, but I would like to keep the cost of lighting down to a minimum with the adding to them down the line.

I would be grateful for your opinions or for pointing me to online resources or books to look up.

Thanks,

Peter

September 29, 2012

Thanks Michael,

That's the explanation I was looking for. Yes, I was really hoping it would work because of a good deal. Big studios are probably out of my price range, and I was hoping to have a permanent space rather than setting up and packing up every time I hire a space. The search continues. :)

September 26, 2012

Thanks for your insights.

Charles, do you think full length portraits are possible considering the width would be a cyclorama, not just a roll of background paper?

If not, could you clarify the reasons you found it impossible?

thanks

September 26, 2012

Hi everyone, please give me your opinions on the following studio set up.

I'm considering renting a small studio space, and am unsure if its enough space for my needs. The space is 3m (9ft) wide by 6m (18ft) long by 3.6m (11ft) high. I would like to turn the space into a cyclorama, having the full width of the studio (both corners) curved and come out about 4m (also curved).

I was thinking of lighting it from the top, hanging strobe flashes like the Bowens Gemini 200's from a scafolding tube suspended bolted into the concrete ceiling. My main lights would be run either from the same scafolding or from 2 additional scafolding tubes running in the middle of the room. I was also considering running a couple of linear bearing plates with a spigot base plate attached to them to allow me to move the main lights without having to undo super clamps.

I plan on shooting fashion, portraits (still & dancers in motion) and some product shots.

Do you think this is a workable space and set up?

Thanks for your help,

Peter

August 7, 2012

Hi Patrick,

The reason I want to do it is to save space. My studio is 6m x 3m and I want to devote half to shooting and half as

office. I would like to keep the cupboard for storage and was hoping to put the printer on the edge of it and still be

able to connect the basket. I do already own the stand, so it's not about the money.

Any ideas on how to set it up without damaging the printer?

August 7, 2012

Hi,

Can anyone tell me if and how its possible to rest my epson 7890 on a very sturdy low cupboard?

The cupboard is about 700mm high by 2100mm long and is very well built (heavy).

It appears like I have to take brackets off or still sit it on something.

It seems like a very basic question, but I haven't been able to find answers after a long search. (maybe I'm not wording my searches correctly)

Thanks for your patience.

Peter

March 14, 2011

Thank you all for your responses, they have been very helpful. :)

Peter

March 12, 2011

Hi, can you help with 3 questions I haven't found answers to?

I am planning to get some cheaper studio monolights (possibly Interfit Stellar X or XD). I have read that cheaper lights don't have that great colour consistency, is this less of an issue if your shooting B&W film or are converting digital files to B&W?

If you are using more studio flashes on a shoot (more than 3), do you have to use either weaker flashes (150ws or 300ws) or stronger flashes turned down (600ws or 1000ws) so you don't wash out the image?

Lastly, I've read that monolight flash durations are as 1/900th sec to 1/2900th sec, but how do these work with flash sync on a camera? Say 1/250th or 1/500th?

Thanks for putting up with the newbie questions.

Peter

August 3, 2010

Just an update for anyone with the same problem.

MIS has responded, saying they aren't sure if the CFS/CIS is competable with the 1410 printer.

Fortunately they told me to try it out & that I can get a refund if it doesn't work.

Although it took some time for them to respond, you can't argue with that type of customer service.

July 30, 2010

I'm glad i read this, its been a while since i developed film. Something made me double check. Just bought my rapid fixer from Vanbar in Melbourne Australia.

Thanks for the original post.

July 28, 2010

Thanks Peter.

When i was researching the printer I assumed the 1410 was the same as the 1400, I just though it numbered differently for different markets. It wasn't until now that I realized the obvious difference of the number 1 to 0. This is after placing an order for the MIS 1400 CFS on saturday. My order hasn't been sent yet, and I wasn't sure how quickly MIS reply to emails.

I just hope I haven't wasted $182.00 on the wrong CFS/CIS.

Thanks

Peter

July 27, 2010

Hi

Can anyone tell me if a 1400cfs/cis would fit an epson 1410 printer?

Is the 1410 the same as the 1400?

Thanks for your help.

Peter

July 27, 2010

Hi

Can anyone tell me if a 1400cfs/cis would fit an epson 1410 printer?

Is the 1410 the same as the 1400?

I have posted this question separately, but thought to try here as well.

Thanks for your help.

Peter

July 23, 2010

Thanks Greg, but i'm not really interested in any color printing right now. Sorry for not making myself clear. The reason I was thinking of putting in the original set of inks was in case the printer is faulty. I've read some reports of epson not honouring the warranty if third party inks are used. Others say there's a way around it.

Roger, I think for the moment I plan on using the CFS with the ebony-6 inks straight away. I don't really want to clean the printer before I get to print B&W.

Thanks again.

Peter

July 22, 2010

Your info & opinion's are much appreciated. I put an order in for the 1400 yesterday, with the $120 rebate its just $430(AUD). I'm going to get the MIS CFS for the 1400 with Eboni-6 inks, and see how I go.

Now I just have to decide if I put in an original set of inks to test the printer or take a plunge and go for the cfs straight away.

Thanks again.

Peter

July 22, 2010

Thanks again guys.

Peter, can I ask you if you consider the MIS UT-14 inks better than the ebony-6 for the 1400 printer? You say your "still using Ebony-6".

Thanks,

Peter

July 21, 2010

Thanks Peter & Roger.

I'm planning on using the printer mainly for matte paper, but printing to glossy would also be desirable.

What i'm really after is the ability to print totally neutral prints, that will last a long time.

Could you tell me what papers your using?

Roger, did you move to the 1400 printer with-out using QTR, or is that the only option?

I'll check out the yahoo group today.

Many thanks.

Peter

July 21, 2010

I've been looking at MIS Black Only inks for home printing, and I'm getting a bit confused with what the best set-up is.

Since I last researched this, they they have come out with the Eboni-6 ink set. Reading the info on the MIS (inksupply) site and the info provided by Paul Roark it seems the Eboni-6 inks in a epson 1400 printer are the best set-up because the 6 inks provide very smooth prints; but within the same info it also says the epson R800/R1800 with its 3 black only inks provides the most neutral print. In your opinion whats the best set-up?

Does anybody know if you could use the Eboni-6 inks in a epson R800 printer?

Can you give me your opinion or experiences with either or both of these set-ups? I'd like to hear alternative set-up suggestions as well.

Have a good night, I'll check back tomorrow.

Many thanks.

Peter

March 15, 2009

Thanks Matt.

The lens is a Nikon 24-120 VR that works fine on the D70s. Every once in a while, after pressing a few things in the menu I reset everything. There was no change in P mode, but when I do a reset now it doesn't change to P mode anymore.

Cheers

Peter

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