peter_macejka

<p>Hi everyone,<br>

I have just picked up a demo D300 from cameta camera, after being very pleased with my D70s demo from them.<br>

It doesn't auto-focus when I half press the shutter, or when I press the AF-ON button. I have tried S and C mode, changing focus points and focus modes on the back. It worked for a minute when I changed to S mode in the command dial, but without changing anything it stopped.<br>

The other major issue I have is, it does't show images in the view screen. The screen is totally black, and occasionally it shows a very dim out-line of something. The play-back folder in the menu is set to ALL, but I am just going through menus and trying to figure things out so I probably am not making any sense.<br>

One other thing I found quite odd is, even in aperture mode the f-stop shows as a small triangle next to F0<br>

(F - zero).<br>

Sorry if I have missed something totally basic, but I am at a total loss. Any help would be appreciated.<br>

Cheers<br>

Peter</p>

Thanks Lex and Edwin.

I'm able to borrow some lenses from a friend who isn't using his. He has the 24mm/2.8, 50mm/1.8, 105mm/2.5 and the 180mm/2.8. I'll see how I like the camera and the glass and go about getting my own.

The reason I got the F3 is because i want to use it for travel to complement a D200.

I currently have an Olympus OM2n, OM 24mm/2.8, 35mm/2.8 shift, 50mm/1.4 and 100mm/2.8. I have also just bought an OM4 and want to compare the two systems before selling one. I am hoping I like the F3, as I would like to use AIS lenses on the D200.

Thanks again for all the help and comments.

Peter

Thanks everyone for your help.

I got both the F3 and the MD-4 to work today. I don't believe it, but it was the batteries in both cases. I

opened a new pack of 4 AA's yesterday and used 4 one day old batteries so I thought I should be ok. Today I put

in eight new energizer advanced batteries and it worked.

With the F3, I tried 2 LR44 batteries and it worked. I don't know how they are different if at all, because they

look the same as the SR44 batteries, but it worked.

However, I cannot see the f -stop in the viewfinder, but as I stated earlier for the moment I only have AF glass.

Am I right in thinking it isn't showing up because there isn't an aperture ring on AF lenses?

Many thanks for trying to figure it out for me. Sorry for wasting your time.

Peter

Thanks Jim. Appreciate the link.

Ok, it looks like I've been doing what I'm supposed to be doing, in terms of the F3 at least. Crap, I was hoping to find something I was missing. I'll still try the motordrive tomorrow. Thanks again.

Peter

I was just re-reading my posts and noticed I said I could make the MD-4 work. I meant to say that I couldn't make it work, meaning the motordrive and camera. Sorry for any confusion.

Peter

Thanks again. I will try the motordrive with other batteries tomorrow, and see if that helps.

Nothing happens when I push the small red button for the LCD display light. Is it the one on the viewfinder itself?

The F3 and MD-4 were eBay purchase's that just arrived today. It was stated as excellent + and visually it looks better. I'm not looking forward to dealing with the company to sort this out if it doesn't work.

I'll keep you posted about the motordrive tomorrow.

Peter

Thanks Ian,

The contacts look clean, the red dot is showing and I put in two new SR44 batteries, unfortunately no signs of life in the LCD display. I forgot to mention that the shutter only fires when use what i think is the back-up mechanical lever, but I presume this is because it doesn't have any power from the batteries.

Anything else you can thinks of?

Sorry for the most basic question, but I am having problems switching my newly purchased F3 on. I didn't get the

manual with the camera and can't seem to find what batteries it takes. It looks like it would take two

(SR44,S76E, V76PX) type batteries same as my OM2n, but it doesn't turn on. (I have moved the front right lever to

the right to show the red dot.)

I should also mention at the moment I don't own any manual glass and have my AF 24-120VR lens on. Since it

doesn't have the aperture ring, I though this may be effecting it.

I also bought a MD-4 motordrive with the camera and when I put half new, half fairly new AA batteries in it, I

could make it work. When I look inside, there doesn't appear to be any corrosion on the contacts, but there is a

small patch of something like dried battery fluid on the bottom. When I scratch it, it smells like darkroom

chemicals. Is there something wrong with it? How do you switch it on?

After searching for answers to these problems for a while, I am left feeling very stupid indeed.

Any help would be appreciated.

Peter

Hi Roger, I know there are MIS refill kits for black and white, but as far as I can see they aren't available for the epson R800/R1800 printers. If you could point me in the right direction, I would be most happy to use this option in the future.

Many thanks

Peter

Thanks Edward.

Can I ask if the scans always looked warm to you, and if so what you did about this? I know its best to start with neutral color and better contrast, but do you consider this something that I can use photoshop to achieve the same result for? (With extra time spent of course)

I was planning on using vuescan, like many other posts about this scanner suggested. Any other tips that you could give me that would be applicable today, especially regarding B&W film? I ask because nearly all the posts about this scanner are quite old themselves, understandably.

Thanks for your time.

Peter

I can get a nikon ls-30 that hasn't been used much for free.

Is this scanner still worth spending time on, or is it too out-dated?

I don't need to own the latest and greatest scanner out there, but I also don't

want to waste my time trying to get good scans from something that gives less

quality than the cheapest scanner on the market today.

I should mention that I want to scan both color and B&W slides and negatives.

Is it worth my time?

Thanks for your help.

Peter

Thank you all for your responses.

I have decided to try both the MIS and Piezography K7 inks for myself. If it is possible, I will try the Piezography K7 inks in cartridges before they sell out to see if I like the results before sending $600(including postage to Australia) on the CFS and set of ink bottles. As far as I have been able to find out the MIS inks are only available in cartridges. Again I will try to buy them before they sell out. If I like them more, then I guess I will have to wait to see if MIS offer them in bulk in the future.

Cheers

Peter

Thanks again for your help and information. I have a couple more questions if I may.

What is the volume difference between the cartridges and bottles? I know the bottles are 4 oz, but I can't seem to find out what volume the cartridges are. I know it is impossible to predict the number of prints, but the volume difference will help get an indication.

Also, what is the thickest or heaviest paper I can use in the R800/R1800? According to the specs I see on the B&H site the (Maximum Paper Thickness is 0.11 mm or 24 lb. (90 g/m2)). Nearly all the paper I look at is 190gsm to 310gsm and some heavier. Again am I missing something fundamental here?

Thanks again.

Peter

Thank you for your responses. I had a look at the Piezography K7 inks and they look intriguing.

As for availability, am I correct in understanding that if I bought a CFS now, I would be able to buy these inks in the 4 oz bottles even if the law against third party cartridges goes ahead? Or am I missing something?

Just out of interest, would companies like MIS be able to sell their cartridges outside the USA? I ask because I live in Australia.

Robert, can I ask if you can use other papers than the Innova and Hanhemuhle that are mentioned with the ink? And also can you use the Piezography K7 inks with glossy paper as well as matte, or like the MIS matte only?

Thanks again.

Peter

Hi, I am about to by a epson R800 or R1800 printer and am very interested in

using MIS's Black Only ink set with one of these printers.

Is anybody using the Black only 3 ink set in their CFS, or does it only come in

cartridges? I apologize for asking here, but the MIS site is not loading

properly for me at the moment.

Thank you for your time.

Peter

Thank you all for your responses.

Luckily, at a friends suggestion I was able to get my pics back using ISOBuster. I did think I finalized the DVDs, but at this stage I'm not sure any more. As yet I haven't had the chance to check other computers, but will give this a try just to make sense of it all. Your responses have helped me to be more aware and careful next time. As well as using multiple DVDs, I will try DVD+R and other "better" brands. I might also invest in an external HD.

Thank you all very much

Peter

I was wondering if anyone has had this problem?

I backed-up photos onto TDK DVD-R's whilst on holiday. I checked the copy to

make sure the files were there. I sent these disks via mail. When I got home the

laptop I was travelling with had major problems so I re-installed windows

knowing I would loose the photos, but hey I have back-ups.

Now the DVD-R's can't be read on either my home computer or the laptop. The

laptop says 0 bits data and 0 available. My home computer is using an external

LG DVD-RW and says G:\ is not accessible, incorrect function. The disks look to

have data burned onto them. Any Ideas?

Thank you for any help

Peter

Thank you all for your responses. Sorry for not ckecking in earlier, but I'm working 12/14 hour days before my holiday. Just 3 days to go.

With all your advice, I have decided to take the 50mm, 80mm and 150mm. I have also decided on just one back for B&W and use digital for colour.

Thanks again

Peter

Hi all,

I would like to ask peoples opinion on what lenses I should take when I travel

to Europe. I own Bronics PS 40mm, 50mm, 80mm and 150mm lenses. I will mainly be

photographing architecture and landscapes with the Bronica, and would like to

only take 2 or 3 lenses max. I want to keep the weight down because I will be

taking my Nikon D70s and two zooms. Can you tell me which you would take and why?

Many thanks for any help you can give me.

Peter

Hi,

I am looking for a solution for a macro flash for my Bronica SQ. I am going to

be using it with Bronica S bellows most of the time.

I was thinking of buying 2 Metz 28 AF-4 flashes on eBay and using them on a

novoflex flash bracket with 2 flexible arms for my macro work. Sync these via PC

Y adapter and using my mini receptor on my Minolta flash meter V for manual

exposure readings.

One more thing I should mention is that the Metz flashes are dedicated for

Minolta mount, but if I use them in manual mode this shouldn't be a probelm, right?

Is this a workable solution? If not, have you any suggestions for what I should

use. Have I missed something?

Many thanks for any help you can give me.

Peter

Thank you Frank for the info.

If I have to use cables and manual mode, I think I will try a cheaper older solution. I was thinking of buying 2 Metz 28 AF-4 flashes on eBay and using them on a novoflex flash bracket with 2 flexible arms. Sync these via PC Y adapter and using my mini receptor on my Minolta flash meter V.

Do you think this is a viable option?

Cheers.

Peter

Does anybody know if you can use a Nikon R1C1 macro flash with the SU-800

controller on a Bronica SQ camera?

I presume you would have to use it in manual mode with a flash meter, but what I

would like to know is if the controller was conected to the camera via a PC cord

would it still fire the flashes (2 or 3) wirelessly?

Many thanks for any info you can give me.

Peter

Hi Jason,

I forgot to mention that my local store is starting to import there own "grey" market equipment, without the Australian warranty. If something goes wrong, they return it to Honk Kong.

Peter

Hi Jason,

I am in the same position as you with regards to a D200 or D80 body. My local reputable pro store has both at a more expensive price. However there are two more problems into the mix. One, you may be charged GST and custom tax (about 15%) upon import. Two, my local store can't get the D80 and is running out of D200 because Nikon is in the process of taking over from the local importer Maxwell optical and they are having trouble getting equipment with local warranty. So be carefull and make sure your local store is actually selling a camera with an Australian warranty if you decide on this option.

Hope this info helps.

Cheers.

Peter

Thank you all for taking the time to answer my question.

Cheers.

Peter