tom_jenner1

Nope, it'll be sharper because you're not using a tripod and that VR will go a long ways to help make up for that. You'll gain 3-4 stops less hand shake.

...and speaking of high quality manual lense there's also the AIS 28/2.8 (don't get the "e" version), AIS 55/3.5 macro and AIS 180/2.8 ED (don't get the AI, non-ED version). You can save a lot of money with no compromise in quality.

Since studio work is usually manual anyways, don't forget that there's a wide range of used low cost, very high quality manual lenses that you can use such as the AIS 105/2.5 (I got mine for $100).

I have neither lens (I'll be getting the Nikon shortly) but do you use the 200-300 range of the Tamron often enough to justify it over the Nikon's range, particularily considering the problems you have?

 

My vote: dump the Tamron and get the $250 Nikon and enjoy the sharper shots you'll get. The 55mm end with VR will also be nice for shots up closer.

 

Oh, yeah, if you don't have one, also pick up a super sharp $110 50/1.8. With a cheap extention tube it'll also work as a macro and is great for lower light work :>)

 

-Tom

Nope Nadine, 100 people=4 rows of 25. I do like your ladder or mezzanine advice.

 

Bob, your advice didn't suck! I appreciate your thoughtful input. I'll definately go in a few weeks early.

 

Richard, that's an interesting idea. I was so focused on an indoor shot that I didn't consider there might by a nice chance for an outdoor shot. I'll scout the location (but being Seattle, it may be raining that evening although we have nice Septembers). I love the warm colors in your link. What lens did you use?

The shot is going to be in a ballroom (no bleachers) so I was thinking perhaps having 4 rows with one sitting, one kneeling(sp?), short people standing and then one row of tall people standing. That way I can get everyone's face.

 

I have tall light stands with 48 inch umbrellas.

 

Nadine, thanks for the link.

 

I don't know if 4 lights is overkill, if anything it allows me to increase my DOF, but better an overkill than an underkill :>)

Hey All,

 

My 20th reunion is coming up in September and I offered to do the photography.

One of the shots will be a group shot with about 100 people. I have 2 Bowen

Esprit 500's and I'm about to pick up a couple of AB1600's.

 

Will 4 strobes at about 2300 W/S be enough? Should I plan on perhaps renting a

2400 W/S power pack and a couple heads in addition?

 

Also, since I like to be prepared, could someone please recommend me a book on

shooting large groups of people?

 

I have an AIS 28/2.8 lens. Considering the 1.5x crop factor, is this ideal?

 

Thanks in advanced!

 

-Tom

Self-organizing (flocking in this case) systems can be very interesting to observe with the complex global patterns but with relativiely simple, local rules.

 

Thanks for the link!

Is there an experienced photographer out there who actually takes Popular Photography seriously?

 

Hmmm, how much do you want to bet that Sigma has a very large production line and they only give out the very best lens sample to be reviewed (duh!).

I've found with my AI 180/2.8 that unless the action is far away then getting good action shots is totally hit or miss. Mostly miss.

 

Fortunately, it's cheap to practice on my D70s and at least I can quickly see if I got the shot.

Li-ions can be charged any time without damage or memory effects.

 

The only way, in pratical terms, to ruin a Li-ion battery is to do a deep discharge, over charging or short circuits. Your camera will not do a deep discharge, your battery charger will not over charge and short circuits aren't an issue with normal use.

Speaking as an engineer, how something works in the lab and how something actually works out in field conditions can be quite different...

Tell your parents it's time to get a more modern camera and that this is the way that the great camera god is letting them know. You can't be blamed for fate! If that doesn't work then deny everything!

 

Did you try taking the batteries out? Did you touch that very fragile shutter? I once ruined a camera by doing exactly what you did.

 

If all else fails tell the truth and learn your lesson.

The problem with lens reviews, either on the web or personal observation, is that there tends to only be one lens sample tested. They'll always be some sort of gaussian probabilty distribution (bell curve) on the actual quality of the lens. I have a feeling that zoom lenses tend to have a broader curve (more inconsistent in quality or in individual characteristics such a CA).

 

The above is why we likely get long threads on the performance of lenses such as the 18-200.

 

If a lens tends to have particularily bad purple fringing it could be the case that one of the lens elements is slightly out of alignment. Send it in for repair.

I'd be interested in any reviews or comparisons of in camera VR versus in the lens. Any links?

Tyra, now that I'm rambling....

 

Another option for you is to use your SB-600 on camera in manual mode and pick up a few of the new Vivitar 285HV flashes (about $100 each) and pick up a couple of optical slave units (about $20 each). For about $250 you can have yourself a nice 3 flash set up (not including light stands, umbrellas) that's nice and portable. I use a similar set up and you'll be able to light up pretty much any residential room.

 

The 285HV has a convient power control dial on the front and with an optical slave it will trigger off of your SB-600 (manual mode only).

 

But first read the entire strobist website.

Juanjo,

 

Type "teleconverter" in the search bar and they'll be loads of information.

Nice job Jose, night and day difference!

 

Tyra, as mentioned above and from your own experience, 28mm might be a bit long. I'd just stick with the lens you have. For $250 you can get the 18-70/3.5-4.5 which is a bit of an improvement but for web/small prints I don't think I'd bother.

 

I use my 28mm for industrial kitchen shots (chefs in action, food prep, product development documentation etc). Industrial kitchens tend to be larger than home kitchens.

 

For what you're doing, the only real advantage of the D80 is if you need to make large prints (>11x14) and the ability to use off camera flash (commander mode). If you want commander mode you can pick up a used D70s (what I use). If you're planning on using your SB-600 on your camera then there's no reason to upgrade but off camera flash is much more flexible.

 

Beyond reading the entire strobist web site I didn't read any books, just many thousands of practice shots. Lots of practice in different shooting situations is the best advice I can give (and of course following photo.net threads!). Follow the lighting threads on photo.net.

 

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html

Oops, Sam, good point, I forgot the D50 doesn't have CLS commander mode.

 

Jose, IMO, the 105/2.5 is the best Nikkor manual focus lens. My 28/2.8 is actually the e model :>(

You'll likely need to set the aperture of your lens to f5.6 to get halfway descent results which means you're at f11.

 

I've got the Tamron 2x converter; I would have been better off with the 1.4x converter. In testing, however, I found it better to use the converter rather than not using it and upsizing (AI 180/2.8 lens).

 

Get the 1.4x, you'll have better results.

 

I picked up my used 2x converter for $50 so no big loss.

Here's is few tips:

 

Don't shoot from such a low position.

 

Expose for those lights and then add flash.

 

Go to a pro shop and tell them you want some CTO (color temperature orange) filter material. With incandescent lighting, you want to match your flash color temperature to the ambient lighting. Set your white balance to "incandescent" when doing shots like this (with the filter on and with incandescent ambient lighting).

 

Do a ceiling bounce but also throw a little bit of the flash forward. Put some velcro on your flash and use a small piece of white cardboard to bounce some of the light forward. You need to practice doing this.

 

Get a SB-800 and use both that and the SB-600 on light stands off camera.

 

Crank up your speed to 800, this will help make up for the limited power of your flash.

 

If you're shooting with ambient incandescent light and shooting with the CTO filter on your flash, consider shooting when it's dark out or close the curtains. This is so you only have to deal with two light sources and not three different color temperature lighting sources.

 

If your pics are for web use or for smaller prints then your lens should be fine. Although it's not the best Nikkor primes lens, you can pick up a 28/2.8 AIS (manual focus and manual exposer only on your camera) for around $70.

 

Get to know your flash and how to use it in manual mode.

 

Hope this helps!

 

-Tom

You can pick up 30% hydrogen peroxide at your local hydroponics grow shop. It's used to sterilize equipment and as an additive (in very small amounts!) and as a way to boost oxygen levels when growing in soil.

Dust shows up more with smaller apertures. Shoot wide open and see if you still have the problem. If the spots go away then you've got some dust. I use a simple pinhole lens and take a pic of a white wall to check for dust. Everything shows up at such tiny apertures.

 

Or as Andrew says, the could be ghost orbs :>)

Great for snap shooters. Laziness for photographers.

Ceiling bounce is a very simple and effective technique for people with glasses.