Gary Naka

Not a wedding but a similar "failure"

I was shooting a prom. The flash sync box was just built for the event. When I got the film back...I was crushed. The image were half exposed. The flash had gone off when the shutter had started to close.

I had not tested the sync box with film BEFORE the prom.

I had to give them all their money back. And as like a wedding, it was a one time event...and I blew it.

Check out all gear before the event to make sure it all works. And well in advance so you can fix, repair, rent, gear.

A wedding or other event is not the time to be experimenting with something new. Get the bugs out BEFORE the event.

Gary

IMHO, go 6x7. My reasoning is, if you are going MF, why stop half way with the 6x4.5, go for the biggest film image you can. If you are going to make a progression, make the progression a large enough step to make a real difference. For example: 35mm, 6x7cm, 4x5 inch large format.

The only downside to 6x7 is the enlarger. An enlarger that can handle 6x7 is more expensive than one that maxes out at 6x6.

For 6x7, how about an SLR like the Mamiya RB67 and RZ67. I've seen the RB67 going for really great prices. I could buy an RB67 kit of body, back, and THREE lenses for what a Hasselblad body, back, and ONE lens goes for.

The con of an SLR is its heavier than a range finder and you have the mirror to deal with. The pro is you don't have the rangefinder mechanism to deal with, and at close-up range WYSIWYG you don't have to deal with paralax of a rangefinder.

gud luk

Gary

I wear glasses, and it seems to be OK. At least no different than using a 35mm SLR with glasses. You can't get your eye as close as w/o glasses but its OK. The one I have appears to have been modified by someone with glasses also. The rubber eyecup has been cut flat, so you can get the glasses right up to the eyepiece.

Gary

Either a manual or flash equiped auto flash.

As was mentioned, you will need several, based on specific need. Power for when you need it, small and light for travel.

Flash needs to have PC cord option.

If a small flash, get one with both a hot-shoe AND a PC cord.

Get a flash bracket that can be used on both cameras.

Manual is very useful when the background will completely fool an auto flash. Like when shooting one person outdoors with the background over 50ft away, you will likely overexpose the subject. That's all I used MANY years ago when auto flash was just coming out, and I did not miss many shots, and conversely I did not overexpose my subjects. I did screw up exposures, but that was a variety of pilot errors that in many cases an auto flash would not have helped...like dialing in the wrong ASA number :-(

Gary

Assuming you are right handed

Hold the reel in the left hand, with a clock-wise spiral

Hold the film in the right hand

Gently squeeze the film so it has an arch

Stick the end of the film into the center of the reel. Mine has a U shaped wire where the film goes, others have a clip or hook, all depends on the design of the reel.

Slowly rotate the reel counter-clock-wise with your left hand.

With the right hand guide the film onto the reel.

It is really hard to describe in words. I was shown how to do this so I could actually see what was being talked about. Once you get the hang of it, it is really quite easy. I find it easier to use than the plastic reels.

couple points.

- reel must be dry

- your hands MUST be dry

- the film must be centered and straight going in, especially during the first few inches.

- Once you kink the film, it will be heck putting it on the reel. This is why you practice in daylight so you can see what is going on.

If you are uncomfortable, I recommend you wait to have someone at school show you how to load a steel reel. You could ruin the roll if you make a mistake in loading the reel.

Unlike plastic tanks, steel tanks may or may not have a cover lock, mine does not. I use masking tape to wrap the tank so the cover does not leak or wobble loose.

gud luk

Gary

Nikos,

I'm glad I'm not the only one to load the film upside down. My photo shop and I were wondering why there was nothing on the film, and that is the only thing he could think of.

Gary

Kieth, I forgot about that 2nd C lens. I dunno why Hassi did that...maybe to confuse us. :-) Then they came out with the CB lenses.

Gary

I don't know the entire configuration you bought (body, lens, back finder, accessories, etc), but $930 seems high to me. The best thing to do is to watch eBay for a few months before you start bidding. That way you can see what the market price is. BTW it does fluctuate, and can be nuts if a few people get into a bidding frenzy. I've seen bids go higher than new store prices. :-(

Is the lens chrome? If so it is a C lens, and about 25+ years old. Optically still very good, just older. But because of the age, it is probably due for a CLA. Old grease can dry out and make things sticky.

I hope you enjoy your new toy

Gary

Only one hole on the camera.

So it is for the hook.

Thanks

Gary

Hi Dave

Where do you live?

I never had to do what you are doing.

But I used to live in Hilo for a couple years...and you know how wet Hilo is.

I put a dehumidifier in my closet and anything that was subject to mildew/fungus was kept in that closet. This included my camera gear and leather shoes. As I recall I pulled out about a half gallon of water every week.

When I left Hilo, and had stuff in storage before being shipped to the mainland, guess what...mildew on my leather stuff :-(

The non-electrical option is to put the gear into a sealed plastic box like a tupperware with a LARGE desicant pack, not the tiny packets that is in the gear when you buy it. Just watch the mosture indicator on the desicant, and recharge it before it gets saturated.

aloha

Gary

William,

I heard the same about the vignetting mirror, and thought I just had to have the 501CM. But I recently got a 150 and put it on my 500CM to look for the vignetting and see how bad it was. I had to look for the vignetting, because it was not very obvious. The top of the screen is slightly fuzzy, like something badly out of focus. So while it does affect the 150, it is not very noticable...at least to me.

I would say out to 150mm it is not really an issue for most people.

Gary

re pin

When I look into the hole, there is a pin in the center, but about half way down. Makes me think of a PC cord, but with a lower pin.

thanks Tony

I tried a search but obviously did not use the right search words.

Gary

On a 500C/M, on the left side below the name plate, there is a small hole with what looks like a pin in the middle. What is this hole for?

thanks

Gary

If you watch eBay for several months, you get a good idea of what the going rate is. As always condition and a bidding frenzy will drive prices up.

That said, you can get a 500CM + 80CF + A12 back for less than $800 USD, depending on age and condition. And if you are patient...sometimes much less. The A12s can be bought for approx $100USD on up. A 501C will make the package cost 100-200 more.

The one thing to watch is shipping. Some of the sellers really hit you on shipping costs. I've seen the same item with shipping from $5 to $25.

As others have said, a good reference point for prices is the used prices at KEH. I use them as one of my reference prices. Why bid more for an item w/o a guarantee when you can get similar at KEH and they will stand behind their product. Just notice how many items on eBay are "AS IS."

gud luk

Gary

OK this is 3 years later, but same question.

For Johns reply here, I have a dumb question.

Is the loaded spool the source spool (new film) or the target spool (exposed film)?

thanks

Gary

John Clark , may 09, 2003; 08:55 a.m.

...it's a loading technique issue at fault here. I had the same problem, and it was really frustrating the heck out of me. I asked my wife (who is a genuine professional photographer to my wannabe) and she noted that when I load, I wasn't applying enough tension with my left thumb against the loaded spool. By applying a little tension, and winding slowly, the take-up is much tighter (drum tight!) and the light leaks have all gone away.

This is with a Mamiya 7-II and Delta films. In support of what other people have said, I haven't had any problems with other brands,...

John

Compared to over 100 USD for a Hasselblad brand hood, the HK hoods are bargain. I would pay for optics or mechanicals like on a lens, body or back, but I'm failing to see the precision engineering on a plastic hood.

I'm considering the pro hoods on eBay as a viable alternative. Better performance at similar cost to a single new Hasselblad plastic hood.

Gary

From eBay, here are 2 items for 80 and 150 CF:

http://cgi.ebay.com/For-Hasselblad-CF-CFE-CB-80mm-Planar-Lens-Hood-Shade_W0QQitemZ7601278516QQcategoryZ64345QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/For-Hasselblad-CF-CFI-CB-100-250-mm-Lens-Hood-Shade_W0QQitemZ7600213221QQcategoryZ64345QQcmdZViewItem

thanks

Gary

I suggest it depends on the landscape you plan to shoot; wide vistas or long shots.

Myself, I am looking first for a wide rather than a long lens, as that is what I would use for landscapes. And due to budget limits, I'm looking at a 50 CF. But if you can swing the $$$$ for a 40...I would go for it. I used to shoot 35mm, and even with a 24mm wide angle lens, I found it wasn't wide enough.

Gary

Does anyone have any experience with the lens hoods out of Hong Kong that are "for Hasselblad". At $30-40 incl shipping, they are still less than 1/2 the Hasselblad prices.

Thanks

Gary

As I understand it, the difference is you will get 6x4.5cm images on your negative rather than 6x6cm images. You have to use the A16, as the film advance gearing is different, so it won't advance as much film per shot. Simply putting a 6x4.5 plate would still give you only 12 shots, because the film advance gearing will move the same amount of film.

With the prices of things on eBay, you are better off looking for an A16 magazine if you really want the 6x4.5 format.

But, the Hass is not the RB67, you can't simply rotate the back to flip from horizontal to vertical format. You will have to rotate the camera, much like a shooting a 35mm camera.

gud luk

Gary

I'm confused on one thing re the EL/M battery

The NiCad is 6vdc, vs the 5 AA at 7.5vdc.

If I'm going to build an external battery pack for an unconverted EL/M should I be planning for 6vdc. I'm planning on either 4 ea D or C cells. D would be heavier, but easier to get D cells than C. I need to go to the local Radio Shack to see the size of the battery holders.

thanks

Gary