fhmillard
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Posts posted by fhmillard
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<p>thank you everyone</p>
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<p>Why would you spend ~$2,700 on a camera and then not have money for the appropriate lens for it?<br>
Kent in SD because i wanted to determine if the 17-55 would work out, which it does except for the ca problem; but i'll give you my address if you want to send contributions for a new lens.</p>
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<p>but so are pics from the new 24-85</p>
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<p>yes, wouter the tamron 24-70pics on pbase are epic</p>
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<p>i understand that; what i originally asked for were some alternatives.</p>
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<p>What is this "my 800"? Are you talking about a Nikon D800? A D800 is an FX body, while the only 17-55mm lens Nikon makes is the DX 17-55mm/f2.8 AF-S. yes</p>
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<p>that is the 24-120 and 24-70 do not get that great of a photozone review</p>
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<p>i now must admit my 17-55 is not a perfect match for my 800, while it is an excellent companion on d300, i now notice: much more chromatic aberration,especially on distant scenes with snow, where there is a lot of fringing; i must say the auto cropping works perfectly, but this lens' overall sharpness cannot compete with the 28 mm f1.8 at any distance, this is the only normal zoom i have, i cannot afford 24 - 120,or 24-70; both of which do o get that great of review on photozone, any suggestions for alternatives are appreciated -- tamron 24 -70?<br>
thank you.</p>
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<p>yes, i use 60mm f2.8g all the time for landscapes</p>
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<p>nikon aw100</p>
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<p>if you use adobe camera raw(ACR) plugin to process raw files, do you see any shadow or highlight clipping? I use PS CS6 Extended, so there is a nifty tool under the image menu-> adjustments->shadows and highlights, which may help balance lighting; have you tried setting picture control to portrait,as in your examples?, but camera standard or neutral are good in most situations; also, in ACR, these can be changed so you can examine image with different settings; magnify image 200% or greater to see fine defects</p>
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<p>Nikon AW100</p>
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<p>i have a 5 year old d300 that has been lots of places in moderate to extreme environments -- takes a lickin keeps on tickin so do my fm2 and 8008</p>
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<p>in fact, the empty chairs and woman on beach, would be great candidates to start with, yellows and 'tans' in slick rock may have a 'golden' reflective look though</p>
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Wish-list.
in Nikon
<p>i want a live view angle viewer-- it is hard to lake that moon shot in live view, if moon is directly above one's head, and i don't want to carry around computer for tethered view.</p> -
<p>yes, velcro, thanks Frank--- it can attach anywhere the ir can see; but, I'll see if my son can give a return on my investment for his BSME.</p>
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<p>try the lens correction filter in photoshop</p>
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<p>any ideas about how to use ml-3 remote and built-in flash? except not seating ml-3 all the way into hot shoe ; since the ml-3 uses hot shoe and flash does not open all the way.</p>
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<p>yes, it works great, i like the metallic sheen, be sure to get icc profile from moab, and use percetpual rendering black point comp is a matter of taste, and is easily seen in proofing; set paper type to ultra premium luster, best photo; and if you use photo shop you can use advanced bw: let printer manages colors, printer setup advanced bw -- choose your settings-- photoshop manages colors for all other printing.</p>
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<p>my 17-55 works fine on my d800 in auto dx crop, but my tokina</p>
<h1>AT-X 124 AF PRO DX, older model shows up as fx, and does not crop properly, any ideas?</h1>
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<p>it does seem to be made for live view shooting</p>
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<p>well, my tokina 12-24 and nikkor 17-55 dx lenses work on d800 in dx crop mode 12mpx, but those are the only dx lenses i have, so i can use the lenses on new fx body, my main reason for fx was 24mm f3.5 pce lens.</p>
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<p>i do want farther working distance than 60mm g, and 300mm for elk, fox mountain lion and far away landscapes; maybe some astro work too.</p>
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<p>and what about 300 not having rear element; also, i have 60mm G and 80-200 zoom on d300</p>
i concede my 17-55
in Nikon
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