jonee

<p>I was looking at buying a Fuji gx617 180mm lens. However, I noticed these marks in the inside of the lens body. I don't think it will have any effect on the function of the lens but I'm just wondering how did they get there and why do so many lens on ebay have them? Take a look at the marks by the screws. . .<br>

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110463894475&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT<br>

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360231469518&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT</p>

<p>Does anyone know where in America I can send my Manfrotto tripod for service. It probably needs to be taken apart, cleaned and reassembled. I probably also need the head serviced too cause my 322RC2 Joystick's trigger appears to be slowly moving away from the body of the handle creating a gap where I can see the spring. Any ideas? Also, do you guys know how much this usually costs? If its expensive I might just rather get a new tripod. Thanks for the help</p>

<p>Hey Gus. Would that light leak problem be with the film holder alone or at the interface between the holder and camera? What I am trying to get at is would getting a new A12 back solve this? Thanks.</p>

<p>Hello. I just got a used Fuji gx617. It took a few rolls to get used to it, but I am finding one particular problem which I am not sure is normal or not. I have my set up without batteries. I am basically using a cable release straight to the lens in order to activate the shutter. Everything else seems normal. I shoot 120 film.<br>

Basically, after I wind the film to frame one, I take the photo, and then have difficulty getting the shot counter to frame number 2. Basically, I have to push down the grey button on top of the winder and then wind it about 3 times to frame number 2. But sometimes the counter doesn't move. It gets stuck somewhere between 1 and 2 and I am left guessing as to where my film is at. Sometimes it will happen between numbers 2 and 3 as well. I kinda found that I have to push down on the grey button very firmly and then wind it once simultaneously. After that first crank it seems to move smoothly to number 2 but I find this very unreliable. Am I doing something wrong or is something wrong with the counter? I remember working with other people with this camera and they seemed to be cranking the hell out it without any problems. Thanks for your help.</p>

Thanks for the answers. I don't understand how can one lens show more coverage than the other with the same focal length? Are you saying that the Schneider is actually wider than the Rodenstock? I don't plan to use the tilt shift much so its not an issue. I just want good image quality combined with easy set up (with my Lee filter system). Thanks again.

Hello. I am about the buy the Horseman SW617 camera. The only question i got is which 90mm lens to buy? Some

people have suggested the Rodenstock because its a smaller lens and easier to get filter holders on. People also

say that the quality difference between the Rodenstock and the Schneider is not noticeable. Can anyone confirm?

If anyone does own one, any problems or concerns with it yet? Thanks.

Thanks for the help. I think I will fly into vegas and take some night shots over there also. I only wanted to stay in Page for a few days cause I hate it when the weather isn't good. I would hate to plan a 4 day trip to Vegas and Page and only get 1 day of sunshine.

Damn. All these posts must be getting you paranoid. Sure Detroit is dangerous, but if you are serious about urban photography, nothing is without risk. I know people that travel to war zones in Iraq to take photographs. Now thats dangerous! I would insure all the equipment and not carry too much money and stuff on you when you explore. The police will honestly not bother you too much as long as you tell them you are taking photos. But just in case I would make sure you had lots of money to cover the trespassing charge (not a joke). You can also have stuff like fence cutters, small ladders, flash lights, thick rubber matts (to get over barb wire), work gloves, helmets, steel toe boots, and dust masks to help you explore abandoned buildings.

 

But just so I don't sound like a bad influence, if you do get mugged, just hand over your stuff and don't be a hero. Good luck.

I know there have been many posts before about this, but most of them are old, so i thought i would ask again. I

am planning to go to Antelope Canyon in mid August. But before i do I just had some beginner questions.

 

1. Whats the best way to get there? I plan to fly into Phoenix and then rent a car and drive to Page. Is this

the best way to get to Page or is there another way?

 

2. Can anyone recommend decent hotels in Page?

 

3. Should I book a tour with one of the companies or just go by myself? I'm sure the people at the hotel can

give me more details about getting into the Canyons by myself and getting permits.

 

4. How many days should I go for? I make it a rule that I should always stay on location for at least 4 days in

case of bad weather, but I don't want to be bored.

 

I had a plan to take a tour on day 1 and then revisit the site again the next day by myself. Also I planned to

visit both upper and lower canyons. So how many days do you think is enough?

 

Thanks for all the help!

I have used Chromes for weddings and found it to be too expensive and time consuming. The scanning of the slides after was even more of a hassle. Occasionally, the only film I will shoot at weddings is black and white and thats only for the expensive, high-end, artsy, packages that i have offered. But apart from that, digital is much cheaper, easier, and faster to use. Its also better to get good results that way.

The Glencoe area is also pretty good. Only problem I had is that the weather needs to be good, and we all know that weather in Scotland can be very variable. I had 3 days there and only had one sunset worth shooting. Hopefully 5 days is enough to get some decent shots.

Hello again. This is my third post about looking for a lab that prints entire

4x6 rolls with a rebate edge. There are several places that do it, but the one

place that did it chemically (not digitally added) has stopped doing it. I have

been hunting for a replacement lab ever since. Are there any labs in America

(particularly NY) that anyone knows that still offers this service? Would be

much appreciated. Thanks.

I am looking to buy a new camera and just recently noticed the brand new Rollei

TRL's - the 80mm and the 50mm. Does anybody own these cameras and is there any

benefit from owning them. I already have a Hasselblad system which I am very

happy with. It just looked very interesting. I like the electronic metering. Any

comments on it apart from its ridiculous price?

I have used that camera before. Its a great buy. Must have cost you a pretty penny.

 

Anyways, I used the center filter and then had a lee filter system on top of that for the gradient filter. Its a bit tricky. What you need to do is only buy the screw-on-ring (the metal part that screws onto the lens) and don't buy the filter holder. IT WON'T FIT! You then can take your ND gradient and stick it over the screw-on-ring with putty or some kind of sticky adhesive. (The only thing keeping the filter to the ring is this putty) In England they call it Blu-Tac. It sounds pretty cheap, but it actually works great.

 

One problem is that shifting the filter in a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction for different angles might be hard cause of the safety bars. If you call up Lee Filters they can make custom ND gradient filters for that camera which are thinner and can be rotated more. If you can afford the camera you can afford to have Lee make you custom filters.

 

If you have trouble understanding my instructions let me know and I will take a photograph of what it should look like.

I use a Hasselblad 50mm lens and even the wider 903SWC. I then use the Lee Foundation kit Holder and a number of gradient filers/polarizers and warm ups in my camera arsenal. I have never had a problem with vignetting. Instead of using that method from the camera store have you actually checked the positive or negative for vigetting?

 

I honestly don't think you need the hood. Its a total waste. I have shot hundreds of rolls and have never had a problem. Plus, since you will be using ND filters, i would assume you will be shooting sunrises and sunsets. You don't need a hood for this as you will be shooting into the sun. I personally find the lens hood totally overrated. Just get the regular holder. It will work great!

I highly recommend you buy a spot meter. It may be expensive but you will save money by not wasting film on wrong exposures. Plus, you will need one if you want to do more than night photography. I sometimes just carry my Hasselblad, with my Sekonic around my neck. Its the 2nd most valuable gear you can have behind the Camera and before a Tripod.

 

For the Berlin gate I took a spot meter reading under the gate at the pillars. Taking a reading at the horses at the top could have also worked. For the city shot you have to take a spot reading on the water and on the buildings. There should be at least a one stop difference between the two. I then put a ND filter on the top half of the photo to darken it one step so that it matches the bottom half.

 

link to city shot: http://www.photo.net/photo/4215665

 

You can see how complicated this stuff gets. You definitely need a spot meter!<div></div>

I was under the impression that anything less than $200 wouldn't get taxed UNLESS it is shipped with UPS or Fedex. Either way, with the dollar the way it is, buying it from Helix still saves a bit of money. Thanks.

Hey, thanks to Michael Freeman. The link to Helix photo sells Velvia 100 for $4.05 per roll. Thats not bad at all. I would prefer Velvia 50 but thats an extra $.90 and I honestly can't tell the difference. I just hope this place doesn't kill me on shipping.

 

This is a lot cheaper than paying $8.79 + %14 tax from Vistek.ca. I will let you know how reliable this place is when mailing to Canada.

When I lived in the UK i used to buy 120 rolls of velvia for around 3.29 pounds or $7 Canadian from a site called www.7dayshop.com. The price has gone down to 1.29 pounds which is about $3 dollars a roll! Thats the price i'm looking for over here but i don't think i'm gonna find it. Since this shop doesn't ship overseas, the only other option is to get my friend to buy a bunch and mail it over. However its kinda impractical since shipping 40 rolls will cost something around $40.

I own a Sekonic 608 which I believe has been discontinued now. It has never let me down. It was the highest model and can be found for a reasonable price on ebay. Otherwise the brand new Sekonic 758DR is pretty sweet. It doesn't really matter what light meter you buy as long as it has a spot meter which you will need for your city shots. Unfortunately spot meters are very expensive ($500+) but you get what you pay for. I wouldn't worry about which brand gives better results. They all do their job well. Its more human error, like not taking a reading at the right place which usually gets your exposure wrong. You should always be bracketing your shots anyways.

 

Just letting you know that if you want, you can buy a digital SLR with a built in spot meter which will do the same job. Plus when you see the image you know if the exposure was correct and then translate that info to your film camera. Just an idea.

Hello. Is there a cheap place to buy Fuji Velvia in Toronto? If not, how about

online from America?

 

I had like 50 rolls which I brought over from the UK a year ago and my supplies

are depleted.

 

Thanks.

One thing i would suggest is don't try to take portraits with this lens. I tried a few rolls and although some of the compositions were dramatic there is huge distortion to the faces and bodies (especially near the corners).

Hello. This is the 2nd time i'm posting this question cause I didn't get much

luck the first time.

 

For the longest time I used to get my b&w and colour negative rolls developed

and printed at Toronto Image Works which printed 6x4's with "rebate" or

"keyline" present on all the prints in the roll. The machine did this as the

entire rolls was processed and printed all together. I just wanna know if any

other labs do this.

 

I've already been to Brown's in Mississauga which produces a fake digital black

border (which i'm not too happy about). Northern Artists and West Camera don't

seem to do it. I think Toronto Black and White does it, but charges $1.00 per

print!

 

I have also seen photos from the wedding company www.bostonimages.com with a

rebate border however, I still don't know what lab they get their photos printed

from.

 

Any other ideas? thanks.

Does anyone know of any darkroom beginner classes in Toronto commencing ASAP in

August/Early September? I would like to take one to save money on b/w enlarging,

but have no idea who holds them. Thanks.

"Use what you like. You can get pretty close to people even with a 4x5.

 

I actually find it easier to get closer with my 4x5 than with my Leica."

 

What 4x5 camera are you using?