brian_schiel

<p>Soon I'll be shooting my first PGA event. Also for the first time, I'll be using the Canon 400mm 2.8 with the 1x extender on my 1DM3. I play golf so I get the game. I'm hoping for some thoughts on how to get the good stuff. I'm hoping the 400 with the 1x will let me fill the frame yet be far enough away to let the shutter rip through swings.<br>

One specific topic: Would you shoot sRAW, full RAW for full JPG? Despite file size, and lack of speed I'm thinking full-RAW so if I crop I'll have as much material as possible.<br>

I'll use an additional body, I think I'll attach the 24-105mm to that.<br>

Any advise you can pass along would be great!<br>

Brian</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I have the opportunity to pitch for 26 hours of shooting over six days for a big golf event. The sponsoring company is very substantial but I would be working for the charity wing of the operation. I've worked on one other (much smaller event) with them and delivered very well for them.<br>

I have pro-gear. I won't be showing up with a 24-105 lens to shoot golf.<br>

I have no idea what to charge for this. Do I position it as 'by the hour' or as by project? Sidebar question: Is if of any impact to explain to a client that many hours are spent in post beyond what actual hours of shooting? Or does that fall on deaf ears?<br>

Thoughts?<br>

Thanks,<br>

Brian</p>

 

<p>Canon won't give me even a ballpark quote on the phone. I'm hoping to get an idea here. I need my 100-400 cleaned and (as long as they have it) calibrated. What's the ballpark cost?</p>

<p>I've been thinking of moving to UDMA cards. This would replace my Lexar 133X cards. Is there enough upside to make the jump worth while?</p>

<p>I shot a dinner tonight. It was very low light but I found I could squeeze enough shutter speed and get 'good exposure' while running at 3200 ISO with wide open L glass. 1.4, 1.2 and so on. The pix on the back of the camera looked great. In Lightroom I'm getting wild colors and splotches all over the place. Fringes of purple and splotches of red. I did a custom white balance and shot RAW but the room was loaded with different light sources. I ran the exposure brighter than the room thinking I was better off to pull back on exposure rather than goosing it UP later. I'm finding that micro tweaking of temperature and tint are saving the images but they are not where I would like them to be and it is requiring lots of work.<br />I think these are the primary issues:<br>

<br />1) While there was light in the room, often the light was not falling on the faces of my subjects. This did not allow for the camera to capture a lot of detail needed for reproduction. I found I did not have a problem when light was hitting faces.<br />2) Although I shot in RAW and did a custom white balance, the various colors of light were driving the camera crazy</p>

<p>Agree? Anything I might not be considering?<br />Thanks,<br />Brian</p>

<p>That makes sense. I did not take pixal SIZE in to consideration. Yet, another example of size mattering.</p>

<p>I have not heard Canon make this claim so maybe I'm barking up a tree that does not exist. Would shooting in small RAW give me better high ISO performance VS full RAW with my 1DM3? My theory is fewer pixals over the same sensor....less noise. <br>

Thoughts?</p>

 

<p>Love that lens. It's my walk around. With the ISO performance of the Mark III, I don't regret not having a 2.8 as a walk around lens. Having said that, I do love my wide prime lenes.</p>

<p>I bought this beast about 8 months ago and could not love it more. Never had a focus issue. What I love the most is the stunning clarity of the images. Even at 3200 ISO I find no meaningful value in running through Noise Ninja.</p>

<p>GREAT value. I can't imagine an update that would inspire to sell and re-buy.</p>

Hi,

I realize using Wizards with my Canon 580EX flashes negates ETTL features. Do the Wizards also leave the high

speed sync feature behind? Kind of new to this I'm trying to put all the pieces together.

Thanks,

Brian

Hi,

I hope the premise of my question is wrong but I noticed something, a few weeks ago, that got me thinking.

I was at an LSU football game in great seats. I noticed there were no fewer than a dozen photographers around the

field. At any given time there were four photographers shooting from the same perspective with essentially the same

equipment. With each photographer filling the zone with 5 to 9 frames a second.....what makes one sports shooter

better than the next?

Hi,

With this question, you'll see that I'm new to lighting. What is the best way to avoid back shadows? ...shadows that

appears behind the subject.

 

1) Don't hit the subject head-on with the light source.

2) Use a light source that does not spash beyond the subject.

3) It's this one I'm having trouble with. Use a little back light or light strip (on the floor) so the backlight pushes

against the key light to squash potential shadows?

 

I'm sure the solution is beyond simple but it's beyond me.

Thanks,

Brian

Hi,

I was hoping someone could recommend an umbrella + stand for the 580EX. Maybe not by brand name but what to

look for, in general. To not take a big hit in output, I think I need a reflective umbrella. I've never been close enough

to such a set-up to see what is needed. Beyond the umbrella and stand, how does the 580 attached to the stand?

...new to the off camera lighting thing.

Get what you can get. :-)

Digital is a wonderful thing but I hate how images can look very different from machine to machine. We bust our tails to get a look and then see the effort blown-up the moment we see it on a different screen. I'm trying a bit of both. In this digital world it's hard to tell the client they can only have a print. I'm trying a bit of both. On my site I sell prints and the digital image as a bundle. Yes, they can print them at Target but (at least for a moment) The client and I are seeing the same thing via the print. I would only do this for a typical event. ...not for a big, high profile event. Also keep in mind the people will pay for convenience. I 'can' change my own oil but never do. By selling disks with all the images, I fear we are feeding the trend of driving down the market value of photography. I agree with Alan. It's an issue of holding some degree of quality control.

Hi,

I'm not sure what to even Google. I need to find a variety of sizes of photo sleeves that I would put in a cardboard

photo mailer. I'm thinking of the kind are a tissue or waxpaper-ish in texture. Can you point me in the right direction?

Thanks,

Brian

I've rented the Mark III for a couple weeks. I turned on the custom feature that runs images through a noise reduction

for better high ISO results...even for high shutter speeds. I looked at two RAW images side-by-side. With and

without the feature turned-on. I can't see a difference. Is that feature hype? Do you see a benefit?

Thanks everyone, I'll take it from here. I think I'm gonna start over on Lightroom and ask my IT guy to draw a much shorter path. As an earlier post pointed out, these crazy long file names are a bad idea.

Yes, Windows EP. Some of the file names are beyond 256 characters.

Hi,

I had a Seagate I was backing up to but my file names became so long (in Lightroom) that the Seagate would not

back-up hundreds of files. Are there any Lightroom users out there who are using an external that they love?

Thanks,

Brian

I'm hoping to find leads of where I might find good liability insurance etc. for my photography business? That

question might be a bit vague but, at this point, I’m not sure (specifically) what I should be looking for.

Thanks,

Brian

Hi,

I've decided to incorporate. I'm not a small business...more of a mirco business. What are the advantage of making

purchases with my tax ID? Can I get better deals on bodies and lenses or is the tax ID number used for other

products or services? Other than having once stumbled on a website that allowed only purchases with a tax ID I've

have not had any experience in this area.

 

Thanks,

Brian

Adding the Canon rebate ($200) to the Amazon.com price of about $900 is the 40D an awesome buy? But, I

currently have the 30D. Is there enough difference between the 30D and the 40D to make the leap? My intent is to

eventually use the 40D as a back-up to the 'new' 5D....or whatever it will be called.

 

Thoughts?

I've uploaded about 65gb over the past few months. If photography was my living, I would certainly also keep a local back-up. In fact, I've been thinking of getting another external to replace my SeaGate. Any favorites? Again, my Lightroom file names got to be too long for the drive to 'see'. That was a big turn-off.