jsbc

Yes, the last Hasselblad introduction that intrigued me was the V series, and the original X-Pan. So in some ways, they have been fairly innovative (even though a lot of this has to do with Fujifilm).

 

But it has been a long long time since I have last been this excited about what Zeiss will unveil.

swc

u save 10-15% in HK.

Thanks CE!. I use Vuescan which is easier but something wrong with the color. Maybe the Epson software is more attuned to Fuji negatives.

 

Anyway, aside from the camera, I think there's something reassuring about the square format in your photos, and the selective focus of the medium format really stands out.

HI CE:

 

Nice photos! I esp like the skin tones. How do you scan them? I have an Epson 3200 and it is impossible to get the quality of the chromes across.

Let me get this straight.... for I really think you are nuts.

 

All these lenses, including the 140-280 zoom, and only ONE BODY? I would get a second body, particularly when I'm using Hasselblad.

I like the lens quality, not as contrasty as T3.

 

The flash is also very powerful. But to be honest, one of the reasons why I use it is that it is a low light no flash PnS.

I have loads of adapters, they are fun.

However, for practicality, may be not that great, except when I travel. I mainly use hasselblads 50-80-150. However, I just throw in a D70 + 24F2.8 +adapter and I'll do OK if I find that I need some telephoto capability.

I wrote on this lens before. I just think it would be better if one just use the lens and hood, avoiding the gratuitous filter than Nikon provides. The filter in my experience induces flare.

Loren is right: the links are not worth $15.

 

Loren is wrong: No one is charging $15 bucks for the links. They are for a separate newsletter.

glass looks pretty clear to me: some of the spots / reflections may be the effect of taking flash photos with low quality digicam.

 

The odd thing is that on most pix it is a screw mt lens with adapter. However, the photo on the left, 2nd row suggests it is a M-mount lens. Odd.

CE:

 

Yes no one owes anybody anything on the NET.

 

However, the links are free. You don't have to pay another thing for it. Your proclamation that it takes US$15 to subscribe to the links is purely false and misleading.

 

Johnson

I use a 50/80/150 Hass combo but I think if I can start again it would be a 60/100/180 + SWC.

James:

 

If you have collapsible lens, and you have Summicrons, then you must a 50 F2 collapsible.

 

OK: On lens cap:

Once you have filters attached, then you can use one of those plastic non-Leica black lens cap with a 39mm or whatever filter size. You won't have to worry about the convex front element. They fit snugly.

 

On extending the lens / taking off the hood:

 

Make sure everytime after you take the photo, you change the shutter speed to B. That way, everytime you want to take a picture, you have to change the shutter speed AND aperture. Then you will know whether the lens is extended.

 

The best method I feel is to get one of the O-series, which trains you to take photo, put on cap, advance film, take-off cap, take another picture.

My regret is that I did not spend more money on booze or women when I was young.

12800 is just an extrapolation. Why do you want to scan at such a high resolution?

I like the first shot, more so if it were tightly cropped.

My cameras M6TTL and M7 are chrome. Just wears better, in both senses of the word.

My lenses are all black, because they are lighter.

I rarely answered these posts but I believe that JK is quite serious about his dilemma because it is not one of those "Which is better" two-sentences post.

 

I would strongly urged getting a body that you like, since you are picking up photography as a hobby and your experience in interacting with the first camera body (ergonomics, AF etc) directly affects your persistence in this hobby.

 

Most camera have decent AF, exposure systems nowadays (but crappy viewfinder). Pick a body that enable you to gorw, ie with good manual focus/shutter speed/ aperture control.

 

Some people also indicate a Epic. That may be right if the sole end is getting decent pictures. But this would take the fun out of the equation. You also need good lenses, plus flash.

 

The Elan 7 and N80 seems to be good options, because Canon and Nikon will be around regardless of the shakeup in the photo industry. However, I would recommend a used AF camera (ie Nikon 8008, the A2e etc) which now sell for a song in the second hand market, not so much more than the pure manual focus systems. They also allow some compatibility with the AF glass (ie the lenses you buy now for them will be useable in future bodies).

Well I have not heard the Canon 16-35mm is sharper than Nikon's 17-35, but both firms have some lenses than are better than the competition.

 

But I agree that Canon is generally less contrasty than Nikon.

I use the III series, but I never trim my film. I use a namecard to guide the film into the gate.

 

Anyhow, holger, the Elmar is great but you should get a F2 lens, if only to really examine the narrow dof.

 

J

I don't understand Bill. If your Kodachrome failed to load, you can still re-use the same roll. You may have lost some terrific would-be photos, but you would not be worse off financially.

get a pistol grip, then the use the left hand for everything on the Rolleiflex.

yep, what's your shutter speed?

Yep, with your system, you should stick to film for high ISO shots.

 

I owned a T2 (then lost it), a minilux, a Contax T3 etc. For Digicams, I have owned, within a week of their coming out, a Canon G1, Nikon 5400, Canon D30 and Nikon D70.

 

I actually think a dSLR produces cleaner ISO400 or even ISO800 shots than film: in addition, one can shift the white balance.

 

There's no way a digicam can rival a T2 when it is ISO400 or above when it comes to noise. Even a prosumer one such as Sony 828. At ISO100 it is a matter of aesthetics, grain vs blocked highlights.