alberto greco

THX guys, but my original questions were (i) why jpegs files converted with DPP incorporating sRGB look the same as jpeg converted with the same program but incorporating Adobe RGB and (ii) why the same jpeg is different if converted by Camera Raw incorporating Adobe RGB. Shouldn't all the Adobe RGB files be the same? Shouldn't the sRGB jpeg be different from the Adobe RGB converted by DPP? Does my (standard and not calibrated) monitor affect the view?

thank you again

Dear All,

I'm getting confused with sRGB and Adobe RGB color spaces.

I know that Adobe RGB has a wider gamut and is more indicated for prints, while monitors are set in sRGB and therefore this latter color space is more appropriate for screen\web use of the images.

I shoot always and only raw. I then convert my pics in jpegs with DPP (and now also with Camera raw 4.1 plugged in PS CS3) for both printing and web use of the images.

I noticed that if, I incorporate Adobe RGB for the conversion with DPP, the final jpeg looks exactly the same as if I convert it incorporating sRGB color space. Is this at all possible?

If I choose Adobe RGB for converting raw files with Camera Raw, the jpeg copy looks only more saturated and reddish (but no wider gamut is visible).

Is there something wrong or am I missing something?

Thanks.

Alberto

Dear All,

I have a quick question.

Do you have any link to a good digital photo professional tutorial?

Do you know how to change the color space in the raw conversion? (ok, I am not the best DPP user in the world, I know... )

Thank a lot.

Alberto

I second Harry's opinion. The longer the better.

You will certainly need a 400mm (at least), a medium telephoto zoom and a wide angle lens for landscapes. 400 ISO is enough to shoot - under normal conditions - all the lenses handheld (for critical shots you can lean your lens on the roof of the car). I always shoot aperture priority and center-weighted exposure will help.

In my Africa trip back in 2007 (<a href="http://www.pbase.com/albertogreco">www.pbase.com\albertogreco</a>), I had an APS digital camera (always in combo with my Sigma 400 f/5.6 - this means 600mm equivalent), and two film bodies with a 70-200mm and a 17-40mm. All the situations were well covered (except for some shots in which I would have used a longer lens!).

Bring as many cards\rolls as you can. A trip in Africa is very special and you will be shooting so much more than what you think.

Have fun (I'm sure you will certainly have it)!

Alberto

<p>Dear all, thank you very much for your answers. At the end of the day, I trusted the spot metering and developed in DDX with standard times. Perfect!<br>

Thank again<br>

Alberto</p>

<p>THX.<br>

I will extend the intervals between agitations. But why overdeveloping? With overdevelopment shouldn't I get a more contrasted photo (darker in the shadows and brighter in the highlights) ? A more contrasted photo should not be fine if I would like to bring out shadows details..am I wrong? please advise (I feel the pictures are good and I do not want to mess everything up)<br>

thank again </p>

Dear Friends,

I was in Istanbul last week and had the chance to shoot in a mosque. The only dim light in the building was coming from the big windows on the sides of the mosque (no lamps or other artificial sources).

Just to let you understand what I am saying, you should consider that the areas next to the windows were very bright, while the surrounding areas were very dark. The areas were geometrically divided by a stong demarcation line. A very stressing situation for both the meter and the AF.

I anyway exposed a couple of rolls of Ilford Delta 400 at nominal speed rate with spot metring exposure (in most of the cases I took backlit portraits of the believers).

I am now considering that, due to the critical lighting conditions and the possibility of meter fault, much part of the frames may come out too dark (even if spot metering was activated).

Are there any developing tricks to bring out shadow details? Do you think this may not be necessary because the spot metering might have worked fine, irrespective of the delicate lighting conditions?

cheers

Alberto

<blockquote>

"I've shot with a 5D for 3 years and am still amazed at the IQ. And if IQ is all you care about, the 5D has it in spades. However if I was buying now, I'd spring for the 5DII. Why? The friggen LCD is light-years ahead, having ISO constantly in the VF is freakin' awesome and the menu system is nicer (divided into several smaller subject grouped menus instead of one huge one). Plus, the 5D RAM buffer chokes quickly if you shoot RAW"

</blockquote>

I quote Puppy Face.

Having bought the 5DII for my daddy's 60th BD and therefore having played a lot with it, I can also add that the new release has the live view, which is absolutely useful if you prefer to manual focusing in certain type of shots (e.g. landscape and also studio portraits).

Having said that, I currently have the 5D and won't upgrade. For the stuff i really need (IQ, FF and high ISO capability), I am perfectly satisfied with the first release. The other attractive - but not essential - features of the 5DII, IMO, are not worth spending the money for the upgrade.

of course if money is not an issue , my above consideration is immediately superseded.

Cheers

Alberto

I have a 5D too and a Eos 30 for B&W street photograpy (if you want to take a look at my work, visit <a href="http://www.pbase.com/albertogreco">www.pbase.com\albertogreco</a>).

Honestly, I find the Eos 30 a perfect camera for the use I intend to do. The AF is fast and precise enough, the shutter "noise" is absolutely negligible on the streets and a combo with a (generally smaller than zoom) prime lens is quite descrete.

In your shoes, I would get the Eos 5 and maybe save money for a wider lens. I would not be worried about the noise. Streets are certainly more noisy than the shutter and its noise will be covered completely.

I would not consider a RF camera: (i) as you said, you will have to practice with MF (and the very first times it may be annoying losing the shot because of normal lack of skills in manual focusing) and (ii) you have to duplicate your line up (lenses, batteries, filters, etc, etc....).

Cheers

Alberto

<p>Thanks for your answers.<br>

I print in my own darkroom and over these years the printing process has been always the same. I generally use the same film (Delta 100) too. I have to say that some time ago I changed the light of the enlarger because the previous one stopped working correctly. The new one seems to project a stronger light (I did experience different exposing time for same pictures when reprinted with the new light).<br>

Do you think this may be the cause...? can a new stronger light of the enlarger affect sharpeness?</p>

<p>Thanks for your answers.<br>

I print in my own darkroom and over these years the printing process has been always the same. I generally use the same film (Delta 100) too. I have to say that some time ago I changed the light of the enlarger because the previous one stopped working correctly. The new one seems to project a stronger light (I did experience different exposing time for same pictures when reprinted with the new light).<br>

Do you think this may be the cause...? can a new stronger light of the enlarger affect sharpeness?</p>

Dear friends,

I own a Canon 17-40 USM L bought in October 2005.

It seems to me that its quality has decreased over years. Is this in any way possible or is just my eye which is getting used to IQ standards of this lens?

Thank you

Alberto

PS. I am mainly talking about home made B&W prints made out of negs developed by a lab.

<p>I would go for a 5D (as in fact I did last spring where the rumurs for a new model were continuos).<br>

The 5D is still an excellent camera and still suitable for all the uses and the needs of a serious amateur. I bet you won't regret the purchase.<br>

Of course, if money it is not an issue, why don't get the newer camera? I anyway second Elliot's opinion: if you are on budget, you'll be better off with an "old" 5D and L-lenses (rather than the 5DII and non L-glasses).<br>

Cheers.<br>

Alberto</p>

<p>I would go for the 5D (as in fact I did last spring where the rumurs of a new model were continuos).<br>

The 5D is still an excellent camera and still suitable for all the uses and the needs of a serious amateur. I bet you won't regret the purchase.<br>

Of course, if money it is not an issue, why don't get the newer camera immediately? I anyway second Elliot's opinion: if you are on budget, you'll better off with the "old" 5D and L-lenses (rather than the 5DII and non-L lenses)<br>

Cheers.<br>

Alberto</p>

ok...

Probably I could have put it in another way...and maybe only Peter got it.

The question can be reformulated in that way:

With my 5D and a 24-105 L\24-70 L will I get much better 20x30 cm prints than with a 28-135 IS or will it be pretty much the same..? ...Including photoshop of course..

THX

Alberto

Dear Friends

my line up is the following: Canon Eos 5D, 17-40 L, 28 f/1.8, 85 f/1.8.

I was about to add a 24-70 L or 24-105 L, but I came up with a question which I am not pretty sure to answer.

Why in the digital era we still think we need expensive and heavy lenses when we can achieve basically everything

we want on photoshop? all the files have anyway to be touched up on PS before any use (both web-posting or

prints). This includes exposure, saturation, sharpening, mask, burning, dodging, etc... So why bother spending a lot

of money for pro lenses...? Couldn't a 28-135 IS be able to deliver the same results than its more expensive

colleagues for a 20x30 prints from a 5D?

I'm probably missing something...

Cheers

Alberto

PS. I don't care about pixel-peeping and chart comparisons, I'm only interested in getting your "real world" feelings.

May sugget southern Lao? It is close to Thailand and probably one of the most beautiful place on earth for nature, people and culture. You will find a lot of stuff to shoot there.

I have been in northern Lao (which I also strongly recommend): Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng and Ventiane. Skip the last one if you dont have plenty of time but do not miss Luang Prabang (which is the mystical and buddist toen of Lao) and a day trip navigation on the Mekong.

Have a good trip

Alberto

Please consider that if you store all the pictures in one sole device, if you lose\break\drop\ it, all your pictures will be

gone forever (the same applies if it's stolen).

Having two of them won't help that much because probably you will pack both of them in the same bag, and if you

lose that bag...Please also consider the weight of the drives and the attention you have to pay in carrying them.

CFs are the best solution (the hardrive will be usefull only as a back up without erasing the images from the CFs).

I have been travelling in that part of the world too (Vietnam, Lao and Cambodia - www.pbase.com\albertogreco) and

found CFs very easy to carry on and basically undestructible. Buy more of them.

Enjoy your trip

Alberto

Hi mates,

i am going to vietnam (and cambogia and laos) pretty soon and was wondering if you can give me some

recommendations on which lens to bring.

I was thinking of 17-40 f/4, 28 f/1.8 and 85 f/1.8. I have some doubt (and probably space problems) in carrying on

also 70-200 f/4. Do you think it is necessary?

I will shoot both digital (a full frame canon 5D and B&W films)

THX a lot

Alberto

Dear Friends,

I just got my new 5D.

I wanted to install the softwares included in the cd, but the driver of my

laptop seems not work.

I therefore downloaded from the Canon website Digital Photo Professional 3.2

but the software does not recognize the files in the camera. If I click on the

folder where the files should be (namely my computer\Canon Eos 5D) the folder

seems to be empty.

I have no clue why this software does not read raw files.

Can you please help me? Is there some other Canon's softwares I have to install?

THX a lot (and apologies if my question is stupid but I am not very expert with

computers).

PS. I still have installed in my PC all the software which have been provided

with my old 300D. Is there any conflict between the softwares?

Dear Friends,

I am pretty close to buy a Canon EOS 5D from Calumet UK.

I live in Italy and my only question is: will I be able to benefit from the

warranty services also in Italy? Will have some problems or may Canon raise

some objections in repairing any malfunctioning of the camera? Will I have to

send the camera back to UK?

THX a lot.

cheers

Alberto

PS. I will buy the camera as a VAT entity (i.e. for professional use), but I

think this will only impact the duration of the warranty (one year less than

consumers' stuff).

Dear Friends,

in this spring I will have the occasion to go to London pretty often and i was

wondering how prices for photographic equipment are over there.

Could you please indicate me a well-known and highly reputated camera store in

London (better with a web site where I can browse around a little bit) so I

can compare prices, services, eventual rebates, etc, etc with the Italian

standard?

Any help will be much appreciated.

THX in advance

Alberto

It is basically just a metal ring which attaches R-lenses to canon eos camera and nothing more.

You lose autofocus and you cannot control AV from the camera anymore.

I heard that some lenses can hit the mirror if the ring is not good.

I have one which I seldom use. if you want I can sell you mine :-)

cheers

Alberto

I agree with Brooks Lester.

For color, I would use a normal contrasted-saturated film and increase the values in postproduction, if needed.

Consider also that a very contrasted-saturated film is difficult to photoshop.

Thus, Astia 100F: less grainy than any neg film and a very good-balanced palette.

For B&W: Ilford Delta 100 and Delta 400 (my choice)

regards

Alberto

Dear friends,

What is your favorite developer for Delta 400? why?

What if you have to push process the film?

Thank a lot

Alberto