andrew_clark1

<p>I have gone with Sherry Krauter twice. She fixed a problem that another, lower cost technician could not. And Sherry worked for Leitz. My camera came back like new.</p>

<p>I leave the lens cap at home.</p>

<p>I started with a IIIa and a Summar and used it for about a year, until I had the money for a VERY used M3 and collapsible 50mm Summicron. I eventually sold the M3 and lens to buy an M4 and then, eventually, I bought a 50mm Summicron. A few years later, I bought a 35mm Summicron. Think of it as building a kit. It may be expensive, but it will last you years and years.</p>

<p>Hi,<br /> I just got my Leica IIIc and 50mm Summitar back from Youxin Ye. I recommend him. He's much more affordable than other technicians. The camera is very smooth in every regard. He put in a new beam splitter for the rangefinder, lubricated the inside, adjusted the speeds, and tightened the advance knob. I didn't need a new shutter curtain. He also adjusted the aperture on the lens.<br>

I have also never trimmed the film. Take your time and push the film into place with the shutter open.</p>

<p>A VC Meter</p>

<p>I have had mine for two years now and the ISO setting was accidentally changed only once. It has seen plenty of opportunities for it to be knocked loose, but has always stayed firm.</p>

<p><a title="Boats by eyepenn, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/aperture64/3596852842/" title="Boats by eyepenn, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3337/3596852842_3b3c225700.jpg" border="1" alt="Boats" width="500" height="334" /> </a></p>

<p>I would take the 28mm and the 50mm. Put one on each body.<br>

I took photos in the rain forest in Puerto Rico. It was so dark under the canopy of trees that I could have used a 400 speed film. 100 was on the borderline of being too slow.</p>

<p>Sell them both. Truth is, once you buy the D700, neither of these cameras will see the light of day.</p>

<p>I don't own the combo myself, but have seen photos of it on flickr.com and on range finder forum.</p>

<p><a title="Rincón, Puerto Rico by eyepenn, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/aperture64/3413949475/" title="Rincón, Puerto Rico by eyepenn, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3653/3413949475_083406a545_o.jpg" alt="Rincón, Puerto Rico" width="700" height="466" /> </a><br>

Rincón, Puerto Rico. Velvia 50, Leica M4, 35mm Summicron</p>

<p>My M4 has the same problem. I also found a user on here that had the same problem with his M6. Youxin Ye told me to start using a lens cap, which I found annoying that he would say something like that. Both Leica NJ and Sherry said to bring it in, so I'll be taking it to Leica within the month, since they are only 10 mins from my job. The other user who had the problem said it took Leica NJ three times to fix it. I have the light leak in three areas, one of which extends beyond the frame of the image. Look at the top and center. The third leak didn't appear in this image, but comes up as a thin line.<br /> <img src="http://daytonadesign.com/problem2.jpg" alt="" width="333" height="500" /></p>

<p>I use a B+W .9 ND filter with absolutely no change in image quality. It allows me to shoot wide open in day light.</p>

<p>Typical. Someone posts a question of which Leica to buy in the Leica forum and people suggest that they buy a Bessa.<br><br>

I have owned the IIIa and IIIc and both can be found for around $200 and under. The IIIc has a stronger, die cast body and the viewfinder and rangefinder are close together, where as the IIIa has them apart. Not much of a difference really. The IIIc is also not as old and can be found in better condition. Both will probably need a CLA. Some IIIc bodies suffer from chrome pitting.</p>

<p>I think it will. The Nikon D300 went out of stock at B&H. Went it came back in stock, there was a price drop of $300. Now the D90 is out of stock. I am hoping the price drops with the D90 too. I think it will due to the D5000.</p>

<p>It's definitely not a lens cap issue. I have been on the brightest of beaches without a cap and only one frame of 36 had the issue. I have not used a cap for the better part of 3 yrs and have only seen the issue on 10-12 frames. I found another user that had the same issue with an M6 and it took Leica of NJ three tries to fix it. I also stuck a halogen flash light in the lens mount, inside a dark room, and there was no light leaking anywhere. I think I'll be giving it to Sherry or Leica of NJ this summer.</p>

<p>Depending on the condition, $750-$900 on eBay.</p>

<p>I do not process it myself. I thought they were from the lab too, until I changed labs and now go to Duggal in NYC.</p>

<p>Here are three photos from my M4. At the top of the frame on the first two photos and on the left of the third photo, there appears to be uneven exposure. The second problem, seen in the second and third image, is a white crescent in the middle of the image. Both appeared before and after a CLA by Youxin. They are not consistent either. Maybe once every third roll or sometimes 2-3 times a roll. The first two were 250@f8 and the third was 1000, but I can't remember the f-stop. On another roll, which is not included here, I shot the entire roll at 250 @ f8 and the problems only showed up in one frame. <br /> <br /> Has anyone seen this before or anything like it?<br>

http://daytonadesign.com/problem1.jpg<br>

http://daytonadesign.com/problem2.jpg<br>

http://daytonadesign.com/problem3.jpg</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Buy it. I wanted one for years, but put it off because of the price and I have a Sekonic 508. I figured it was only a matter of time until I lost the 508 or broke it because I juggling the camera and meter, so I took the plunge and bought the VC Meter for its convenience. The meter's reading has only been off once and this is when I took a photo of a reflective street sign. If you are worried about the low light accuracy, which I had never heard before, I used the meter in Rome to photograph the interiors of many chapels. This included the VERY dark Sistene Chapel, which does not allow any photography. All of the photos came out properly exposed. It's also very convenient to have the meter mounted in the hotshoe.</p>

<p>Leica 35mm Summicron.</p>

<p>I was in the same boat you were, but this isn't my first. I wanted to upgrade my M4 to something newer. I was stuck between the M6 or MP. I thought about it for the better part of three months. Then I started to consider the M7 because I thought having the AE in some situations would be a nice option to have. I saw one at a price I couldn't refuse and grabbed it. I think it's the perfect price compromise between the M6 and MP.</p>

<p>I had a screw mount Leica, but eventually sold it when I moved up to the M series. If I had to do it it all over again, I would go with a IIIf Black Dial and put a Voitlander Nokton 50mm on it.</p>

<p>In 1964:<br>

M2: $249<br>

M3: $288</p>

<p>"Velvia is probably the most garish, cartoonishly oversaturated film in existence."</p>

<p>Isn't this the point? Use Provia or another stock, if that's not your look.</p>