jeffrey_steinberg
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Posts posted by jeffrey_steinberg
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I think he meant 6x45 which is a Contax medium format that is not quite as large as 6x7 but is used by some fashion photographers with either film or digital backs.
My guess is that is what he meant. He probably said it right and it got lost in translation. I haven't met too many pros who don't know what type of camera they are using (although I did meet one).
--Jeffrey Steinberg
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you are using the same piece of film. Just shoot 6x7 and crop in the enlarger.
--Jeffrey
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I hiked all over Israel with my Mamiya 7II. there is nothing that beats it in the list of cameras you gave. I have a C330 (heavier than the C220) and I would not think of brining either of them with me.
The M7 II is so light and the optics (especially the 50mm) are amazing. 6x7. You can't beat it. If you are going cold weather hiking, get the battery holder that you can put into your jacket. Since its an all electronic camera, without the batteries, you are toast.
Marry it up with a lightweight ball head and Carbon Fiber tripd and I think you have the best outdoor/backpacking MF camera going.
--Jeffrey Steinberg
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For some reason, it doesn't have all of the dedicated pins for the 360 so you don't get full flash automation.
Its built like the camera--wonderfully.
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There is an older Mamiay "Chimney" finder that was made for the RZ (not the RZ II). For $120, Mamiya USA will upgrade it so its meter
works. It has chimeny which keeps outside light out and a magnifier on the top that is variable (I think its actually a variable diopter). I am not sure.
It makes everything nice and clear for me with my eyes. That may be an option for you other than a prism. Try to find one; They are hard to come by but they do turn up from time to time.
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Dan,
The ATL-1500 comes with a 4x5 sheet film holder and drum. Were you referring to 8x10 sheet film? I only go as large as 4x5 so I thought the ATL was a good choice (since most of my work is 220) ;-)
Wow, great luck on the $22.50 processor.
--Jeffrey
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I didn't buy on ebay. Too many seriously broken ones on ebay (according to Jobo USA they look at ebay to know what's coming into their service department since the units are sometimes broken).
I decided to buy a new one. It took a while to get one since they had to make it in Germany. I know its a lot of money but I decided to buy a new one because I run through a lot of film and I wanted to control the process.
Its a great machine. Once I got drainage right (rule: always make sure the outflow pipe runs downhill. It doesn't like a dip in the line).
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I have a new Jobo ATL-1500 that I just finished hooking up. I have
read the manual twice but don't find the answer to this question:
When set to cleaning mode (what I was going to do to ensure proper
drainage), does the device start spinning the tank automatically?
When I turn it on in cleaning mode I see "CLEA" on the display and its
starts spinning the drum back and fourth. I would think it would be
stationary until you close the top.
Is this correct?
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As long as it can be run in manual mode, you are all set. Then, you just have to figure out the proper exposure. There is a calculation you can do with the guide number and the distance to figure out the F stop of the lens/flash.
Me, I use a $80 Vivitar 285HV. It has a nice "semi-automatic" manual mode where you dial in the distance and the F number you want to use and it will shut down the flash when enough light output hits its sensor.
I have gotten great exposures with the Mamiya 7II and this flash.
The only other thing is to determine what ambient amount of light you want. The M7, since it has a leaf lense will synch at whatever speed you want. So be careful, or you may have more background light than you want.
--jeffrey steinberg
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I have a M7II and its the best to go hiking with. Hiked all up and down Israel including the southern mountains near Eilat and it held up like a champ.
One comment: I find the 43 a bit too wide. I tried one before I bought it and ended up with the 50. The 50 is about 24mm in 34 and the 43 is about 21mm. I find the 21mm perspective just a bit too extreme, but its all a matter of opinion.
The 150 is tough. I have a hard time focusing it.
Good luck.
--jeffrey
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I have the 285 and its a great flash. Works great with the M7.
And its something like $80. Much cheaper than the other units.
--Jeffrey Steinberg
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I enjoy using the Microtek ArtixScan 120TF.
Does a great job, is cheaper than the Nikon and has good rebates from time to time. I got mine for $1,699 plus $200 off.
--Jeffrey Steinberg, Scarsdale, NY
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I have the G 21/2.8 (love it) and have the M7 also. I decided on the 50mm because it matched the 50mm on my RZ67 (I know, I have too many cameras--I can't help it).
I find the 50 to be a little better than the 43 but I really think its meant for distant landscapes/street scenes. Its too much to ask a 43 mm in 6x7 to not show convergence in close up vertically-orietned architectual elements.
--Jeffrey Steinberg
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To be honest, there is only one system if you are going to be backpacking with a 6x7:
The Mamiya 7 with a 50mm, 80mm and 150 mm lens. If you just want 50mm, the package is small and light. Taking a studio camera is just too cumbersome. I have one and its great.
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I just bought a new 150mm lens and the round optional finder for it
that sits in the hot shoe. The directions don't mention what the
hinge is for. It seems the finder can move about 5 degrees off
horizontal but it flops back down and I can't figure out why I would
want to move it and the overall purpose.
Can someone explain?
--Jeffrey Steinberg, Scarsdale, NY
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I just had Mamiya modify a Chimney finder (not sure if that is what you call the AE prism). It was $119. Works great. The camera is wonderful with an prism finder. Not sure why they stopped making it.
--Jeffrey
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Yes, you can use it. I use the 285 (a slightly more powerful 283) with my Mamiya 7 and it works great.
For fill flash, I would suggest setting it so that its giving off -1 ev of flash compared to the metered reading.
--Jeffrey
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In extreme cold weather, you need it. When out in the winter, I place it in my jacket where by body keeps it warm.
For general use, its not very necessary.
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Mamiya makes a very small, beautifully machined tripod spacer "N" if memory serves. I think I paid $60.00 for it. Its not a plate but a small cylinder that attaches to the bottom and raises the camera up about 3" from the ball head.
Since the M7II I have is so light, I use a Gitzo 1228 tripod with a Novaflex ball head (the one where the ball is on the outside) and the combination works great. If you hang a bag from the center column in the bottom, its more stable.
--Jeffrey
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The Linoff model was $180 a few years ago. I love mine.
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Contax 645, Mamiya RZ come to mind.
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I think that "Black and White" has a wide number of MF articles. Its such a good magazine that even the "35 mm" articles have relevance to what you want.
I have it sent over to the US. Its a great read.
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You can find a basic Mamiya C330 for about that amount. Nice 6x6 with interchangable lenses. Started me out in MF.
--Jeffrey Steinberg
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Let me give you a unique perspective. I have both cameras. They are very different and each do things the other can't do.
Want to go hiking with minimal weight and take along 6x7 images? Take a Mamiya 7 (I did this weekend). Want to do studio shooting or focus up close on something in your face? Use a Contax 645.
Unless you are blowing up images really large you will not see a difference in grain between 6x45 and 6x7.
Personally I think the Contax has a better lense but I have never been wanting for my Mamiya 7 lens quality (except wanting something faster and longer than 150mm).
These are two cameras that are hard to compare. You have to ask yourself what you want to do and then decide. Or do what I did, buy both.
--Jeffrey Steinberg, Scarsdale, NY
RZ67 Pro IID and shutter speed setting/cocking
in Medium Format
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I bought the 50 last year and promptly lost the instructions. Can any one type in the directions to this thread or provide a description. I don't see that manual as s PDF or purchasable from the mamiya.com site.
Thanks