michael_hassoun3

<p>I do have a spanner wrench.<br>

I'll give it a try. Thanks!<br>

Anyone with another suggestion before I mess with it?</p>

<p>Hi all</p>

<p>Would someone know how to open the helicals on a SOOKY close up accessory?<br>

I have done so on a SOMKY very easily, but the SOMKY seems to be tougher.<br>

Any similar information on a NOOOKY or NOOKY-HESUM could also help...</p>

<p>Thanks!<br>

Michael</p><div></div>

The so called philosophy developed by Erwin lacks IMHO a rational approach, Digital is great but I still shoot film because I don't want to mess with constant multiple backups and I want the ability to cheaply print archival silver prints (go try to make an exhibition base on these digital printers without a mortage).

On the other hand, I invite all of those that say that the medium is nothing and only the Eye and the Vision count to have a look at the PN homepage. almost all the pictures presented here (while looking great for a lot of them) have that "perfect" look, super sharpness ans silky grades of color. You know what, I liked it for a while but I now found it distracting. The medium swift to digital, had, in my opinion an important impact on the way people see, post process, and present their pictures. And the result is a step back from the sense of reality these pictures give. Can be nice on occasion but at the end of the day, I found it boring.

I use a standard rubber washer for all the bathroom/toilet plumbing and glue it to the eyepiece.

Pros: easy and available.

cons:

a bit too thick, needs a re-gluing from time to time.

My cron (ltm with adapter) collapses beautifully on my CL.

My summitar is so-so. not messing with the meter arm but when focus is near infinity and the lens collapsed, the back of the lens touches the inner baffle of the CL, where the meter arm retracts. not a catastrophy but not the safest situation IMHO.

Hi all

as some of you may remember I have two later ltms: one IIIc with a noisy

shutter and a cla'd IIIf which sounds like a whisper.

So far I figured out a first part of the problem and it seems that a wrong

former adjustment has left the camera with WAAAAYYYY too much curtain tension.

So, I put the tension to a minimum just for the sake of hearing the difference.

well, the second curtain is now quiet. The first one is, on the contrary still

giving me a very healthy "TSSHHHAK" even if it is hardly tensed.

I think the problem comes from a lack of brake action. As far as I understand

this, the brake action is set by the eccentric on the brake arm at the bottom

of the camera. This seems to be set to its minimum or close to it.

apparently, there's no way to tune the actual brake level of opposition

(spring or friction torque) to the 1st curtain trip...

This eccentric is slotted in a way that it cannot be set by a screwdriver.

Question: does anyone knows what tool I can use to turn the eccentric palet?

Thanks

Michael

First, thanks a lot for all the answers.

The brake on the IIIc is set to almost its minimum action as far as I can tell from the eccentric position. I've tried to play a bit with it with no success. I don't have the right tool (some kind of tiny fourk I presume). I did not insist.

After having played with my 3 barnacks I have observed that the IIIc (noisier) requires considerably more torque to wind than the two others. Could it be possible that a faulty tuning in the past, have set it to a point where both the tensions of the two curtains are too high and the speeds are still in a ballpark ok?

This would explain the much more violent release I feel in this specific body?

Hi all

Did anyone mention a very different shutter sound in the IIIc than in the IIIf

bd?

My IIIc has a much louder and dinstinct shutter sound than my IIIf. even my

III (1933) has a nicer sound than the IIIc...

Maybe this has to do with the fact that the IIIf just came back CLA'd from DAG?

(I just bought the IIIf and I did not compare before sending it to DAG)

If that's the CLA...., man, what a difference!!

Would you people know what part should I clean/lube to restore that beautiful

"fffTT..." instead of that loud "TCHACKK!"

Thanks!!

The title says it all...

The white, plastic fourk is...

broken

two parts

kapputt

after having tried to reglue it (nope, didnt work) I was thinking of the

following solutions:

1- buying a new part for a lot of money (and probably be back to the same

issue after a while... )

2- maybe there is a better replacement (Is the spool from the CLE compatible ?

Is it better?)

3- find some kind of hard plastic cut tube, fit it under pressure to the shaft

and shove the film leader under it

4- find someone to produce a metal replacement for the broken fourk (Maybe Tom

A??)

Any opinion?

Thanks

Michael

Paul, if you really want a smooth operation, you will need to

1-dismantle the focus helicoid (I think it's quite simple and involves releasing the stop screw). In any attempt to completely unscrew an helicoid, it is very important to mark exactly where the two parts are separating as there are several threads.

2-Clean the old lube residue with Nafta or lighter fluid.

3- relube. after a few trys, I found that you need grease and not oil. Silicon was too stiff. I finally used lithium grease on two lense that work really nice now.

good luck!

right or wrong might be a matter of taste....

Until you look for a 0.58 or 0.85 finder.

Then, a classic M6 won't fill the bill.

What about Rollei 25 ASA?

Do someone have any impression on it?

any recomendation for processing??

try an hexar AF in stealth mode and you will find your leicas so noisy...

Still, in general, the low noise is a part of that "low-profile photography" of RFs that I think most of us appreciate so much.

as far as I remember this is how it goes:

open up the crank. On the SIDE of the inner part of the crank there is a tiny set screw. NOT THE BIG SCREW ON THE UPPER SIDE OF THE CRANK. open it slightly. no need to take it apart.

Then with your finger inside the camera body, immobilize the rewind fork (the thing that is connecting to the film cannister).

Then, unscrew the knob by turning it counterclockwise. Carefull of those small washers coming with it...

Carefull with that cleaning too...

good luck

If you need this for "events" you will have hard times with a scale focusing camera.

you could try the Minolta CL or CLE, with the 40mm summicron, they are really small and efficient.

"What lens is that?"

seems to me just like a colapsed summar

"...Do not overlook the new Fuji Provia 400x [RXP] they have better color fidelity and better light fading stability than Kodachrome..."

That's some news!

where from do you take this fact about light fading stability?

"I think I got it ..."

Not quite right. How do I unscrew these blocks?

Thanks again

Thanks!

Don has all my critical jobs. He is currently working on my "new" summitar, summicron and a IIIf.

I 'm doing this for fun... on items I won't mourn if I mess totally.

I think I got it but...how do I "check centering" ???