peter_gilbert3

<p>I gather the scans from North Coast are JPEG not TIFF. Maybe Richards is the same. I would see that as a limitation to further post process.</p>

<p>Peter</p>

<p>Anthony: Here is a Photoshop method I use just for dust spots in skies from scanned images. You might be able to use this also for noise reduction if you don't mind the softening it will cause<br /> Filter>Noise>Dust and Scratches. Increase the Radius to make the largest spots/noise disappear, then slowly increase Threshold above 0 to bring back some "grain" or texture<br /> Create a Snapshot in History panel. Click on the blank icon next to the Snapshot to assign the History Brush to it<br /> In History panel, click the step one above the dust and scratches filter step<br /> Create a rough selection of the sky with the magic wand tool then Edit>Fill>History<br>

Of course you can also just use USM or Noiseware plug-in instead of the Dust and Scratches filter in the first step above.<br>

Use the History Brush to paint out any remaining areas in the image where you want noise reduction<br>

Hope this helps<br>

Peter</p>

<p>The minimum aperture lock is not specific to D lenses. Some front to back play in the front (focus ring) is normal in screw drive AF lenses like the 20/2.8 AF</p>

<p>Peter</p>

<p>Erik:</p>

<p>I use this lens on a D700 and I love it. There were two series of this lens, mine is the earlier one, s/n US218XXXX. You can tell which series by inspecting the underside of the lens: the earlier ones will read "Silent Wave Motor ED IF" whereas I think the newer version simply says "SWM" (someone correct me if I'm wrong). Make sure the focus motor does not squeak.<br>

Enjoy the lens!</p>

<p>Peter</p>

<p>I would get the new one since its resale value is likely to stay higher if you ever decide to sell it. The new coating can't hurt either.</p>

<p>Peter</p>

<p>Looks like it can, with FN plus Dials, see Page 323 of the IM. I'v not tried this however so cannot verify.</p>

<p>Peter</p>

<p>My take:<br>

Use 9-point when the subject is moving predictably in a single direction across the frame - example car racing or boats<br>

Use 21-point when the subject is moving unpredictably across the frame but mainly only on one axis (that is, moving either back or forward) - example football, tennis<br>

Use 51-point when the subject is moving unpredictably in all directions, left to right, up or down - example birds in flight.</p>

<p>Peter</p>

<p>I have a Metz 40-MZ2 flash with the Nikon SCA that works in TTL mode on older film cameras (N65 in my case) but not with my D700 which uses the new iTTL. It will work in A and M modes however on the D700.<br>

There are rumors (or hopes?) that Nikon will soon update the SB600 - maybe worth waiting until after PMA in a month to see what eventuates.<br>

Peter</p>

<p>Roy:<br>

Here's a thread you may find interesting (I trust you can read this without being a member of that group):<br>

http://www.nikoncafe.com/vforums/showthread.php?t=209125<br>

I have mine set (D700) to clean on shutdown only, I know Olympus cameras do their cleaning on startup (and there is an indicator light to show that it's functioning). DP Review has consistently criticized Olympus for cleaning on startup as it delays the camera being ready to shoot.<br>

I have an Arctic Butterfly kit, but I've never had the need to use it. That's fine with me! I would never attempt a wet cleaning.<br>

Peter</p>

<p>Jacob is right - the C-AF on Olympus cameras is no match for any bird in flight. <br>

Peter</p>

<p>Yes, I have a D700 with a 28-105D as my mid-range lens and it is perfectly fine. I also use at the moment a 20mm AF and the new 70-300G AFS VR. I also have an old Tamron 400/f4 SP adaptall that works fine with the D700 (even using matrix metering in A-priority). Plan to get the 14-24AFS or 17-35AFS, maybe the 135DC or 180D and finally the Sigma 50/f1.4. I figure that's all I need. Deciding between the 17-35 and the 14-24 is hard, since I plan to take lots of landscape shots but I do use filters a lot...<br>

Peter</p>

<p>You can easily make a copyright brush.<br>

1. Open a new image in photoshop File>new. Make it about 4" wide by 2" high. Select the Type tool and click on this blank image with what you want the copyright to read {example © 2009 [your name]} <br>

2. a post above tells you which key to use to get the © symbol<br>

3. hide the background layer by clicking on the eyeball. Then select the Type layer, go to Select>Color Range move the fuzziness slider all the way to 200 and click OK (the type should have marching ants around it)<br>

4. Now make a custom brush Edit>Define Brush Preset. Enter a descriptive name (eg My Copyright 2009) and click OK<br>

5. To use the brush, just select the brush tool like always and select the cpyright brush from the brush menu. You can rezise using the [ and ] bracket keys, change its opacity, and color just like any other brush. And you just stamp it on your image where you want it</p>

<p>This was first published in Pop Photo magazine June 2006 page 59 (article by Richard Lynch)</p>

<p>Peter</p>

<p>According to my local expert, a certified Adobe trainer, there is no benefit in terms of file size by converting NEF to DNG. Same is true 12 bit or 14 bit. If you shoot Canon CRF however, there is a file size benefit (i.e. reduction) by converting to DNG.</p>

<p>Peter</p>

<p>I'm using this on my D700</p>

<p>http://www.thinktankphoto.com/ttp_product_CmraStrp.php</p>

<p>Peter</p>

<p>I just got a D700 and I'm using my old 28-105 D lens with it. It's a good combination, balances well and the 28-105 is sharp enough. You can get one from KEH under $200. Hopefully this year Nikon will introduce a revised and improved 24-120 AFS VRii (or something close) which I might consider.</p>

<p>\Peter</p>

Well your current choices are 11-22mm; 12-60mm; 7-14mm or the 8mm fisheye. A new 9-18mm is being released soon.

I have the 11-22, and for me this is the best choice as it has less distortion at the wide end compared to the 12-60mm. I

seldom find the need to go any wider than 11mm (22 mm in 35 equivalent). The 7-14 is undoubtedly a better corrected

lens, but needs a lot of experience to use effectively at the wide end, and you need to be careful of lens flare.

Peter

I use a 400mm/f4 Tamron fitted with a Contax Y/C Adaptall2 plus the Cameraquest

Contax to 4/3 adapter. It works just fine, no loss of infinity focus.

I agree with the previous poster there never will be a direct Adaptall2 to 4/3, there is

just not enough market size for that.

Peter

Robert: Thanks. I'll try a packet and see if it's better than Red River Ultra Pro Satin V2. At 2x the price it should be.

Peter

Anyone know where or if one exists? Not on HP.com anywhere.

Thanks

Peter

Probably at PMA March 8, just a guess

Peter

Dan:

There are persistant rumors it will be announced (again) at PMA in March, perhaps bundled

with the also-rumored E-3 or E-1P or whatever the new pro-body is to be called.

We'll have to wait until about March 9 I guess.

Peter

I note that "digital imaging" ranks second last on the list of strategic businesses; just ahead

of "other". And the fact they point to high competition from emerging Asian companies (even

a shot at the Koreans -"household goods makers") means to me - no more P&S cameras. The

DSLR business is likely to be spun off I agree, and Samsung would appear the only contender.

This is a "merger" just like Daimler and Chrysler - or BP-Amoco. RIP Asahi Pentax.

Peter

Maybe a bit better than Bicubic Sharper, but not $200 better.

Peter

In Japan, it is Nick-on. If it were pronounced Nike-on they would have spelled it Naikon. Nikon of course is a contraction of the company's official name.

Peter

Last month, a press release and supposedly a formal introduction/announcement at the show in NYC

about 1 week ago. Since the October press release-I've not heard anything. Anyone know of the status?

The autofocus looks like a great feature to me. I'm scanning 6x6.

Peter