ericreagan

<i>Just like other Nikon digital SLR's the D70 provides three color modes, Mode Ia and IIIa are both mapped to the sRGB color space and so images shot in these modes will look correct immediately and can be used as is. Color mode IIIa has been designed for use for nature and landscape shots, it provides richer greens and a more natural balance of other colors.

<p>

Mode II is mapped to the Adobe RGB color space, this provides for a wider color gamut but will require conversion to sRGB for computer monitor output. Many professional photographers and publications have standardized on Adobe RGB, this ability is now expected of almost all digital SLR's. The D70 uses a different filename mask for Adobe RGB images, they begin with "_DSC" instead of the normal "DSC_". They are also now embedded with the Adobe RGB color profile, this means that color space aware applications such as Adobe Photoshop immediately recognize and apply the correct color profile.</br>

- Source: <a href="http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond70/page11.asp">DP Review</a></i>

<p>

Also check out <a href="http://www.smugmug.com/help/srgb-versus-adobe-rgb-1998">this help page on smugmug.com</a> for a good explanation of when you should use sRGB over Adobe RGB. Chances are if you aren't doing your own printing you need to be in sRGB.

<p>

I'm also gonna give my ordinary schpeel on buying a good book. It'll save you tons of time and boost your learning curve significantly.

<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?link_code=ur2&tag=cyclingshots-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2F0817437967%2Fsr%3D8-1%2Fqid%3D1150683769%2Fref%3Dpd_bbs_1%3F%255Fencoding%3DUTF8">Understanding Digital Photography by Bryan Peterson</a> is a great book for taking leaps up the digital slr learning curve. I've read it and <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?link_code=ur2&tag=cyclingshots-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2F0817463003%2Fsr%3D8-2%2Fqid%3D1150683904%2Fref%3Dpd_bbs_2%3F%255Fencoding%3DUTF8">Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson</a>.

Both are great books by a great author. He regularly contributes to

Popular Photography. I think the Digital Photography book may suit you

better with the D70s. I have a Rebel XT myself and

occasionally still refer to Bryan's books for the basics of exposure

and photography concepts. Could be the best $15 investment you make in

photography.

<p>

As for using Photoshop Elements: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?link_code=ur2&tag=cyclingshots-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2F0321384830%2Fqid%3D1150758203%2Fsr%3D2-2%2Fref%3Dpd_bbs_b_2_2%3Fs%3Dbooks%26v%3Dglance%26n%3D283155">Photoshop Elements 4 for Digital Photographers</a> is THE book you need to own.

Kelby is a steller author and co-founder of the National Association of

Photoshop Professionals. This book is THE book for getting going in

Photoshop. I still use mine extensively when working in Photoshop.

<p>

Cheers,

</p><p>

Eric<br>

<a href="http://cyclingshots.blogspot.com">cyclingshots.com</a>

I'm going to contribute my two cents. Keep in mind that I'm an amateur though. I have an iMac, a Rebel XT, use Adobe Lightroom beta 3 and PS CS2.

<p>

<i>1. What basic image manuipulation program do you recommend?</i>

<p>

I think <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?link_code=ur2&tag=cyclingshots-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2FB000EJ9W0Q%2Fqid%3D1150757107%2Fsr%3D8-2%2Fref%3Dpd_bbs_2%3F%255Fencoding%3DUTF8%26v%3Dglance%26n%3D229534">Photoshop Elements</a> would be great to work with. It would probably suit me just fine. I've heard folks say that Elements will do 90% of the things that CS2 does and makes it simpler. I've toyed with Elements and tend to agree.

<p>

<i>2. What else do I need to work with RAW files?</i>

<p>Photoshop Elements 3.0 and 4.0 support Adobe Camera Raw, which is a plug-in to Photoshop programs and distributed by Adobe. I prefer, and use, <a href="http://labs.adobe.com/technologies/lightroom/">Adobe Lightroom</a>, which is in Beta 3 now (available for free from Adobe). I imagine when in comes out it will be prices in the sub-$300 range, comparable to <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?link_code=ur2&tag=cyclingshots-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2FB000B6711O%2Fqid%3D1150757167%2Fsr%3D1-1%2Fref%3Dsr_1_1%3Fs%3Dsoftware%26v%3Dglance%26n%3D229534">Apple Aperture</a>.

<p>

Long story short - PS Elements 4 will handle your RAW files just fine in Adobe Camera Raw. I think you'll find Lightroom or Aperture easier to use though. Best bet is to try them out and see for yourself.

<p>

<i>3. I will need to get a new computer and have been looking at an Apple iMac. Will I need monitor calibration software, and if so, which kind should I get?</i>

<p>

I love the iMac. It has no trouble handling Photoshop or Lightroom. I've got a G5 that won't run Aperture though. You can configure the new ones to run Aperture now. I use <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?link_code=ur2&tag=cyclingshots-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2FB000CR78C4%2Fqid%3D1150757451%2Fsr%3D11-1%2Fref%3Dsr_11_1%3Fn%3D229534">Pantone Huey</a> to calibrate my monitor and find it quite effective. It's also one of the cheapest calibration devices that actually works. Additionally, it constantly adjusts your monitor's brightness to suit the ambient light in the room.

<p>

<i>4. Is there a good place to send files to be printed? I have used the service that Apple links to, and found the prints to be too glossy and amateurish. Or will I be better off with a printer?</i>

<p>

I can't speak on the use of a printer. I exclusively use <a href="http://www.myphotopipe.com/">MyPhotopipe.com</a>. I've tried an abundance of online services and have received the best quality from them. Make sure you convert your files to the sRGB colorspace before sending them or they'll come out all washed out.

<p>

<i>5. Any other must-haves, e.g. noise reduction software?</i>

<p>

I've lived without noise reduction software for the past year or so that I've had my Rebel XT. Photoshop and Lightroom have always done fine for me. Although you'll hear others rave about <a href="http://www.picturecode.com/">Noise Ninja</a>. I say try out your software first and see if you need other plug-ins before shelling out the bucks.

<p>

<i>6. Can anyone recommend any books or links to good websites that offer digital darkroom guidance?</i>

<p>

I've got a list of steller books that worth their weight in gold:<p>

 

<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?link_code=ur2&tag=cyclingshots-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2F0321384830%2Fqid%3D1150758203%2Fsr%3D2-2%2Fref%3Dpd_bbs_b_2_2%3Fs%3Dbooks%26v%3Dglance%26n%3D283155">Photoshop Elements 4 for Digital Photographers</a></br>

Kelby is a steller author and co-founder of the National Association of Photoshop Professionals. This book is THE book for getting going in Photoshop. I still use mine extensively when working in Photoshop.<p>

<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?link_code=ur2&tag=cyclingshots-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2F0321357507%2Fqid%3D1150758112%2Fsr%3D8-2%2Fref%3Dsr_8__i2_xgl14%3Fn%3D1000%26s%3Dbooks%26v%3Dglance">How to Wow: Photoshop for Photography</a></br>

I think this book is a little more advanced that Kelby's book but still very very useful and I refer to it often.<p>

<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?link_code=ur2&tag=cyclingshots-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2F0596100183%2Fqid%3D1150758447%2Fsr%3D2-1%2Fref%3Dpd_bbs_b_2_1%3Fs%3Dbooks%26v%3Dglance%26n%3D283155">The DAM Book</a></br>

Regarded as the bible of digital workflow. Read the reader reviews on Amazon for a thorough explanation of why it's the bible on DAM.

<p>

I think I've covered my $.02. I wish I would've asked the questions you're asking when I started out and I would have saved myself some time on the digital learning curve. Good luck!

<p>

Cheers,

<p>

Eric</br>

<a href="http://cyclingshots.blogspot.com">cyclingshots.com</a>

If you're going to shell out that much money on glass get a good book to go with it. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?link_code=ur2&tag=cyclingshots-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2F0817437967%2Fsr%3D8-1%2Fqid%3D1150683769%2Fref%3Dpd_bbs_1%3F%255Fencoding%3DUTF8">Understanding Digital Photography by Bryan Peterson</a> and <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?link_code=ur2&tag=cyclingshots-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2F0817463003%2Fsr%3D8-2%2Fqid%3D1150683904%2Fref%3Dpd_bbs_2%3F%255Fencoding%3DUTF8">Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson</a>.

Both are great books by a great author. He regularly contributes to

Popular Photography. Could be the best $15 investment you make in

photography.

<p>

Cheers,

</p><p>

Eric<br>

<a href="http://cyclingshots.blogspot.com">cyclingshots.com</a>

Lots of good answers here. I won't try to add to it other than recommending a good book. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?link_code=ur2&tag=cyclingshots-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2F0817437967%2Fsr%3D8-1%2Fqid%3D1150683769%2Fref%3Dpd_bbs_1%3F%255Fencoding%3DUTF8">Understanding Digital Photography by Bryan Peterson</a> is a great book for taking leaps up the digital slr learning curve. I've read it and <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?link_code=ur2&tag=cyclingshots-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2F0817463003%2Fsr%3D8-2%2Fqid%3D1150683904%2Fref%3Dpd_bbs_2%3F%255Fencoding%3DUTF8">Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson</a>. Both are great books by a great author. He regularly contributes to Popular Photography. I think the Digital Photography book may suit you better with the Digital Rebel. I have a Rebel XT myself and occasionally still refer to Bryan's books for the basics of exposure and photography concepts. Could be the best $15 investment you make in photography.

<p>

Cheers,

<p>

Eric</br>

<a href="http://cyclingshots.blogspot.com">cyclingshots.com</a>

<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?link_code=ur2&tag=cyclingshots-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2F0817463003%2Fsr%3D8-1%2Fqid%3D1150600805%2Fref%3Dpd_bbs_1%3F%255Fencoding%3DUTF8">Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson</a> is a book that I would recommend any beginner read. Bryan does a great job of introducing photography to novices. He's really a great teacher. He's also a regular contributor to Popular Photography.

Debbie,

<p>

As for your all purpose lens, I like the kit lens as I'd previously mentioned. It's not a macro lens though and I don't know that I can really offer you any advice regarding macro lenses. I don't own one myself, but I do often read that the Canon 100 f/2.8 Macro is held in high regard for consumer level lenses.

<p>

The only other lens I'd consider if you're not looking at "L" glass right now is the EF-S 17-85 IS. I think it runs in the $500 range and it covers a better range than the kit lens, is a good walk around range, and has image stabilization. I think I might recommend you go with the package at Circuit City. For the price you're paying you can't go wrong with it.

<p>

As far as the extended warranty... I stay away from those for the most part. That's just my personal view. If I bought every one that I was offered I would've spent thousands of dollars on nothing. I know I said I was risk averse, but I think they're a gimmick and a huge profit machine for electronic stores. Again, my opinion. If it gives you peace of mind, then go for it - remember, it's almost a 25% markup of your purchase price though. And the camera is warranted from Canon for a year. That's just my $.02. You spend it however you please. Also, I've heard that Mack, who offers extended warranties on camera equipment is a rip off.

<p>

Cheers,

<p>

Eric</br>

<a href="http://cyclingshots.blogspot.com">cyclingshots.com</a>

Debbie,

<p>

One final thought. I was thumbing around online today and saw the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?link_code=ur2&tag=cyclingshots-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2FB0007QKMSC%2Fsr%3D8-2%2Fqid%3D1150135497%2Fref%3Dpd_bbs_2%3F%255Fencoding%3DUTF8">Canon Rebel XT on Amazon.com </a> body only for $694.95 with a $100 rebate. You have to add it to your cart to see the price, but it's free shipping and $50 less than B&H on top of that. I've ordered several photo items from Amazon with nothing but good experiences and Bob Atkins also praises them. Just some more food for thought.

<p>

Cheers,

<p>

Eric</br>

<a href="http://cyclingshots.blogspot.com">cyclingshots.com</a>

I like the performance of San Disk cards myself. I think either the

<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?link_code=ur2&tag=cyclingshots-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2FB00065AO0K%2Fsr%3D8-2%2Fqid%3D1150127897%2Fref%3Dpd_bbs_2%3F%255Fencoding%3DUTF8">Sandisk Ultra II 1 Gig</a>

or the

<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?link_code=ur2&tag=cyclingshots-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2FB00065ANYC%2Fsr%3D8-3%2Fqid%3D1150127897%2Fref%3Dpd_bbs_3%3F%255Fencoding%3DUTF8">Sandisk Ultra II 2 Gig</a>

would suit your needs just fine.

<p>

I think you'll get 300 or so shots out of the 1GB card and 600 or so from the 2GB card on your Panasonic. The reason I like SanDisk's Ultra II series is it is "faster", meaning that it clears out your in-camera buffer faster so you can shoot pictures in faster succession. Just my $.02, but I don't think you can go wrong with the Ultra II series. You can find others that are less, but they may not perform like you'd like.

<p>

Cheers,

<p>

Eric</br>

<a href="http://cyclingshots.blogspot.com">cyclingshots.com</a>

Debbie,

<p>

As far as the kit lens goes, that's going to have to be your call. It's a good range to have for your camera. I've currently got 3 lenses: the 18-55mm, a 50mm, and the aforementioned Sigma 70-200. There's no way I could use the Sigma indoors for things like Christmas, birthdays, informal family snapshots, etc., because it's just too long of a zoom. I find myself using the 18-55mm more than the others on family outings because of the convenient zoom range. If I had the change to spare I'd probably go with the Canon 24-105 f/4 L for my all purpose zoom, but I don't so I use the 18-55mm. I don't get any complaints from family members on birthday parties and impromptu portaits at such events. Truthfully, I probably couldn't tell the difference between the quality of the 4x6's that we most often print from the kit lens or the L series of lenses. I'm sure that others on here could though. Again, take all I say with a grain of salt - I just do this for fun.

<p>

Example of impromptu portrait with 18-55mm kit lens:</br>

<img src="http://ericreagan.smugmug.com/photos/72615995-M.jpg">

<p>

As far as ebay sellers go - make sure their feedback is near 100% before handing them out that much cash. I've passed on a lot of good deals because the feedback was less than perfect. Use Paypal to make sure that you are protected. Things to consider: Is the camera a "USA" model or a "gray market" model? This will affect your warranty. If it's gray market, do they offer a warranty? Is it extra? .... My personal (I stress personal) opinion - I'd shell out a little extra at a place like Circuit City where I know it's warranted under Canon USA and it's a business that I trust. I spent about $100 more on my Sigma lens from B&H than what many ebay sellers had it priced (even though they had great feedback) - I consider that $100 well spent on peace of mind. Again, this is my personal opinion and buying habits - I may be a little more apprehensive than the average guy though.

<p>

Again, good luck in your purchase. Stay in touch with us all. Send some cycling pics to cyclingshots.com (via email) and I'll be sure and post them!

<p>

Cheers,

<p>

Eric</br>

<a href="http://cyclingshots.blogspot.com">cyclingshots.com</a>

Debbie,

<p>

Your thread is getting on down the list, so you may not get much new info. I thought I'd try to fill in what I can.

<p>

As far as "L" and "HSM" goes, Canon uses the "L" designation for its professional line of lenses. In these lenses, you'll usually see several ultra-low dispersion elements that are considered the best glass for lenses. I don't think I can explain the physics of why an ultra-low dispersion element is better than a low dispersion element or even what a dispersion is. I'm sure other folks on here would be glad to explain the physics involved. I'll take their word for it all and simply rely on Canon L lenses as "pro-quality glass."

<p>

You can also check out <a href="http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Lenses/Canon-L-Lens-Series.aspx">The Digital Picture</a>, which is a good source for Canon lens info.

<p>

HSM refers to Sigma's hypersonic motor, which is their equivalent to Canon's USM or ultrasonic motor. Put simply, it means faster focusing speed. I can't hardly use a lens without it anymore because I'm so use to it. I rarely use manual focus. I know there are a lot of folks that swear by using manual focus in certain situations. Chances are for me though that the camera's AF is going to be better that my eye in most situations.

 

<p>

As far as additional books go, I'd suggest reading Understanding Exposure first and then decide for yourself what you want to look at next. If you grasp everything in that book, you'll have a very good understanding of what you should be reading. You'll be able to choose for yourself what the next book or topic for book that you want to tackle is. Then, ask this question again.

<p>

As far as kids at the camp. Clear it with the camp first. Folks get especially touchy when you start taking pictures of their kids - Especially if you're planning on putting them on a website for you or your son. When it comes to lenses, if you're shooting outdoors in the sunlight, you probably won't need as "fast" of a lens as f/2.8. Overcast days? Probably so. I know I needed that extra stop during the individual time trial at the Tour de Georgia this year because it was overcast for most of the stage.

<p>

As far as the kit lens (18-55mm) for the Rebel XT, I've got it and I still use it a lot. It's a range that you really need on it. If you want to upgrade, consider putting that $150 toward a Canon EFS 17-85mm IS lens. Dig around on Bob Atkin's site and see what you think about it.

<p>

That's about all I've got for now. Good luck. And post some shots as you're learning with your new camera.

<p>

Cheers,

<p>

Eric</br>

<a href="http://cyclingshots.blogspot.com">cyclingshots.com

Consider <a href="http://www.photoshopelementsuser.com/tutorials/t_introtolayers2.php">Adobe's own tutorial</a>.

<p>

Or if you want a good Elements text for future reference, consider Scott Kelby's book. "<a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/redirect?link_code=ur2&tag=cyclingshots-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&path=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2F0321384830%2Fqid%3D1149881022%2Fsr%3D1-2%2Fref%3Dsr_1_2%3Fs%3Dbooks%26v%3Dglance%26n%3D283155">The Photoshop Elements 4 Book for Digital Photographer's</a>". I have his Photoshop CS book and use it on a very regular basis.

<p>

 

<p>

Cheers,

<p>

Eric</br>

<a href="http://www.cyclingshots.com">www.cyclingshots.com</a>

<i>So you did those with the Rebel and the 70-200 f/2.8 lens? To transcribe, that's 70-200 focal length with a maximum aperture of 2.8?</i>

<p>

Right.

<p>

<i>So the difference between an 2.8 and 4 lens translates to what functionality?</i>

<p>

Twice as much light, which translates to a faster shutter speed for the same exposure. An f-stop of f/2.8 is one full "stop" faster than f/4.

<p>

Where a darker scene meters at 1/30 of a second at f/2.8, the same scene will meter 1/15 of a second at f/4, which results in the same "exposure" (read light striking film or sensor). Each "stop" that you drop in aperture (f-stop) raises the "stop" in shutter speed for the "exposure" of your shot.

<p>

I think I've spelled this out properly, but I'm sure I'll be corrected if I missed something. Again, I don't do this for a living but I think you get the idea. If you pick up one of Bryan's books, you'll see that he explains it much better than I do.

<p>

The point, which I hope you see, is that on a cloudy day or shady area in a bike race you might need that extra stop to boost your shutter speed to an acceptable speed. On the time trial, which you'll see many of my individual rider shots, it was cloudy most of the day - so I really needed the f/2.8 aperture for a lot of those shots.

<p>

Cheers,

<p>

Eric</br>

<a href="http://www.cyclingshots.com">www.cyclingshots.com</a>

Also, let me recommend that you buy a good book with your camera. One of my personal favorite "beginner" books is "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson or, perhaps, "Understanding Digital Photography" also by Bryan. It's worth the $20 or so and will save you tons of time on things that you "figure out" or "come to you."

Debbie,

<p>

I'm kind of like you - I really dig both cycling and photography. I'm not quitting my day job for either though. I was faced with a similar choice earlier this year and thanks to the great advice I got here on photo.net I ended up with a Sigma 70-200 f/2.8. I had originally intended to get the Canon 70-200 f/4 L lens, but I'm thankful that some wise folks in these forums encouraged me to grab the f/2.8 lens. It's about an $800 lens from reputable dealers, but that's still a significant savings over the Canon L f/2.8 at $1000+.

<p>

Like I said, I'm not a pro and never will be, but I enjoy sharing my cycling shots with other. Feel free to take a look at my blog/gallery at <a href="http://www.cyclingshots.com">www.cyclingshots.com</a> and let me know what you think.

<p>

I share my photos on smugmug.com. I don't charge anything, I'd have a smugmug account anyway so it's not a big deal to me (like I said, I'll keep my day job), but you can get a "pro" account where you can set the prices there. After you upload there it's totally hands off - they allow ordering directly from your customers and ship the prints straight to them. It's worth the consideration at $150 per year. If you want to give it a shot, you can use the following coupon code and get $5 off: 7jCtURK05RxCQ (yes, they give me a $10 credit - but I wouldn't have gotten the discount when I signed up if someone hadn't posted a similar post in these forums).

<p>

Good luck.

I have the standard account and there is no way to turn printing off. In both the standard and power user accounts there is no way to stop people from ordering prints. Additionally, there is no way to set prices for the prints. Smugmug will not "take orders" for you, other than sending them to the EZPrints for printing. Both the standard and power user accounts aren't really intended for professionals at all - unless you just want to give stuff away. You can't even review which prints have been ordered. They're basically a glorified (very glorified IMO) Kodak Gallery sharing site, which I'm very satisfied with for my amatuer needs.

<p>

However, if you look <a href="http://www.smugmug.com/help/image-protection">HERE</a>, you'll see that turning printing off is a key feature of the "Pro" account. Even at $150 a year though, that's not a bad deal for unlimited traffic and storage - heck, that's a great deal. You can save $5 (and I'll get a $10 credit) if you use this coupon code in the "referred by" box: 7jCtURK05RxCQ

<p>

Cheers,

<p>

Eric

To follow up that last post,

 

With a 99 out of 100 on the slider the same file exported to JPEG results in a 3.3MB file.

 

99 vs. 100 seems negligible until I compare the respective files sizes of 3.3 vs. 9.2. What's lost in that 6MB?

 

My curiousity has certainly been piqued and this is becoming more of an academic inquiry than anything else.

Peter,

 

Thanks for the response. I'm also interested in using the printing services on smugmug too. I've been sending out emails from portfolios that I upload to myphotopipe.com but they only stay on there for a month or two before deleted. I thought about your suggestion of dropping the quality, but I'm not sure how that's gonna affect prints.

 

I'd appreciate any info from folks on what the slider adjustments affects on files actually are.

 

Additionally, toying around with a file and the slider has opened a whole new can of worms I hope someone can explain to me. Lightroom has a slider similar to Photoshop, except it goes from 0-100. Here's the file sizes of one file:

 

Full quality JPEG export from Lightroom (from RAW) = 9.2MB

Full quality JPEG export from Photoshop (from TIFF) = 5.3MB

90 of 100 quality JPEG export from Lightroom (from RAW) = 2.9MB

 

I suspect that the difference in the full quality export from Lightroom and Photoshop has to do with the use of the TIFF or RAW format.

 

Can someone just help me get my bearings straight on what's going on in the export process and how the slider affects quality?

 

Thanks,

 

Eric

Smugmug says its file size limitations are 8MB. I signed up for a trial account

and have a little problem with this limitation due to my workflow. Unless I can

come up with a simple fix (read: fast and retaining quality), it's gonna be a

deal breaker for me. I'd like to use smugmug's entry level account for family

and friends photo sharing. I'm not a pro and never will be. I'm really

interested on what the helpful community here has to say. :)

<p>

Below, see the email message I sent to smugmug (I'll let you know what they say

as soon as I hear from them):

<p><i>

I see, now that I've opened an account that file sizes are limited to 8MB. I

shoot with a Canon Rebel XT in RAW and do my post-processing in Adobe Lightroom

Beta 2. When finished and ready to print or place online, I export to JPEG in

sRGB color space. This produces files sized 6-10MB in JPG format. I'm happy

with my workflow and don't really want to change it. I'd really like to give

smugmug a shot but I'm not ready to make drastic changes to my workflow. Do you

have any suggestions on a simple fix for the file size (to keep under 8MB)? I

don't want the quality to suffer, nor am I ready to shell out $150 for the pro

account.</i>

<p>

Regards,

<p>

Eric Reagan

Listen to what Peter said. Without knowing what you're doing with the file, folks are guessing at what works for you - even though it may work for them.

<p>

Educate yourself with <a href="http://www.smugmug.com/help/srgb-versus-adobe-rgb-1998">THIS</a> article and you'll understand a little better about <i>why</i> you should use a particular color space.

Mpix is good but I like Myphotopipe.com better than Mpix. Can't say anything about the other 2.

I missed that distinction (alternation vs. simultaneous display). Thanks for pointing that out - you've answered my question. :) Thanks Bob!

Got a question. I noticed that several of the pages here alternate

between ads by google and ads by yahoo. I didn't know that google

would permit that. Could someone fill me in on how things are done

between the two? Thanks.

 

Eric

I actually thought that Rainer's response was pretty accurate. ;)

<p>

I would like to refer you to a couple of discussions from last month that should give you more than enough reading material on this expansive topic. Look at <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00FzOG">this thread</a>.

<p>

Also take a look at <a href="http://www.smugmug.com/help/srgb-versus-adobe-rgb-1998">smugmug's ggreat explanation</a>. It really is the best explanation I've seen on the topic. And I use the phrase "best explanation" because it explained to "me" why my prints didn't look the same as they did on my monitor.

<p>

I tried using AdobeRGB because of the bigger color space and consistently received washed out prints from Mpix.com and Myphotopipe.com. My problem was that Mpix and Myphotopipe use sRGB color space, as do most commercial printers, and I was losing a lot of the color information in the printing process.

<p>

Long story short, I only use sRGB because I either <a href="http://cyclingshots.blogspot.com">post my shots on the web</a> or <a href="http://www.myphotopipe.com">print them using Myphotopipe.com</a>. There's no reason for me to ever be in the AdobeRGB color space. I'd imagine that some of the pro's on here use AdobeRGB and either print their own or use a custom shop for their printing needs. I'd love to have a resource that categorically listed online photolabs' color spaces. Anybody seen that?

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/4386104-lg.jpg">

<p>

At the 100m to go mark.

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10026334-lg.jpg"><p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10026341-lg.jpg">

<p>

Shot these yesterday as the riders came up a wicked climb into Lookout Mountain. Shot another 200 shots today. Two more days to go! Been waiting months for this trip!