waldemar_schmid

<p>For Minolta and I think for some other brands also there were 3rd party winders with build in intervalometers like this one:<br>

(scroll down) In Germany they where sold as Soligor.<br /> <a href="http://images.google.de/imgres?imgurl=http://www.heritagecameras.co.uk/ekmps/shops/heritagecameras/images/auto-winder-with-timer-and-remote-control-for-minolta-xg-x-300-x-500-x-600-x-700-%5B3%5D-1617-p.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.heritagecameras.co.uk/auto-winder-with-timer-and-remote-control-for-minolta-xg-x-300-x-500-x-600-x-700-1617-p.asp&h=600&w=800&tbnid=o7BfdG7Uwi9RPM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=120&docid=sODF70loYphf_M&usg=__JOxf8BhGX-glTsfgz-HYPAt5u0Q=&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwimwbCm-PfOAhWGPRoKHZsDDpAQ9QEISTAJ">http://images.google.de/imgres?imgurl=http://www.heritagecameras.co.uk/ekmps/shops/heritagecameras/images/auto-winder-with-timer-and-remote-control-for-minolta-xg-x-300-x-500-x-600-x-700-%5B3%5D-1617-p.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.heritagecameras.co.uk/auto-winder-with-timer-and-remote-control-for-minolta-xg-x-300-x-500-x-600-x-700-1617-p.asp&h=600&w=800&tbnid=o7BfdG7Uwi9RPM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=120&docid=sODF70loYphf_M&usg=__JOxf8BhGX-glTsfgz-HYPAt5u0Q=&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwimwbCm-PfOAhWGPRoKHZsDDpAQ9QEISTAJ</a><br>

<br /> Greetings Waldemar Schmid</p>

<p>Anthony,<br>

there is a cheaper way than custom made : a SNHOO Adapter for 39 mm Filters (and hoods!) from e.g. Heavystar. Don't try to find a original Leitz one, these are for collectors ($$$$).</p>

<p>For me it looks like a Summitar filter.<br>

I see some differences to my german filters: The rim looks coarser, and the engraving "SL" looks irritating. Maybe Leitz NY used an US manufacturer during the war for this, when they coudn't get it from Germany. </p>

<p>John, these where not really unique for the Summitar. At least the Steinheil LTM lenses (Orthostigmat 35, Culminar 135) also used them. They must have been quite popular. Even in the early 70s, when I started with an old Leica IIIb, every photoshop in Stuttgart/Germany had some of them in a drawer. And when they wanted to cleanout the drawer, you could buy them for 2 DM (about 35 US-Cents at this time). Today they are more than scarce.</p>

 

<p>The first model with the "siamese" range/viewfinder was the the IIIb, III and IIIa have separate windows. Without long times the were called II / IIa.<br>

I had a III and still have a IIIa, the have both strap lugs.<br>

Greetings Waldemar</p>

<p>Reinhard, I have one, bought used with cardboard box. No leaflet or users guide, but the box says "RB 67". It is also shown in the manual for the RB67, but not in the Univeral manual.</p>

<p>AFAIK it's only for use with the RB 67. It doesn't work on the Universal.</p>

<p>Jim,<br />no, you have to remove the revolving adapter (see page 33 in the linked manual) and mount the P-adapter instead of it.<br />Waldemar</p>

<p>Ray, I think it doesn't rotate because there is not enough space to make it rotatable. The P-adapter was also suggested by Mamiya for using Press/Universal backs (see older literature e.g. at Butkus), not only for Polaroid. So they offered, as Maris said, an additional "vertical M"-adapter. The horizontal one is the same as on the Universal. I sometimes use these parts together with the "K" back from the Universal to shoot 6x6 with the RB67-Pro S.<br>

Greetings Waldemar Schmid</p>

<p>I don't have the 85, but I have the Ortostigmat 35 and the Culminar 135 from the same series for Leica LTM. Both take the tapered Leitz-filters for the Summitar.<br />So I think this one will take Summitar filters also.<br>

Greetings Waldemar</p>

<p>I own a Mamiya Universal too and I am lefthanded. But this camera is very odd for me: focus with the right hand is a problem, and the viewfinder on the right side is for me also wrong. I find the egonomics of e.g. my Fuji G690 a lot better.<br>

Greetings Waldemar Schmid</p>

 

<p>There has been 3 generations of this zoom. The links from Vitor shows generation 2 or 3, wich used both clip on hoods. But the 1st generation had no clip on, but a 2nd, bigger filter thread (in addition to the 55 thread all generations have). This thread is something special, bigger than 58, but smaller than 62 and was used for the original Minolta hood for this lens.<br />Mine came used without a hood, I could never find a hood for the outer thread and use a 55 hood in the inner thread instead.<br>

Greetings Waldemar</p>

<p>Tony,<br>

Dan Fromm is right. The Pola Back fits without an adapter to the Universal, for film backs you need the M-or G-adapter. At least here in Germany, the adapters were sold seperately and the body without adapter. So if the previous owner used only pola, the camera will possibly come without any adapter. And these are difficult to find on the used market without a camera attached! <br>

Another advice : don't take the G-adaper for the RB 67-backs. If you don't have a very flat nose, you will not reach the viewfinder with your eye. And the last generation backs from the RD 67-Pro SD will not fit.<br>

Greetings Waldemar</p>

 

<p>In addition to what Winfried said for Germany:<br>

Besides of CEWE, there is also Fuji Gera as a mail order lab. They have a very good quality, but they have rised their prices in 10/11 up to 2.95€ for 135 and 3.95€ for 120 E6-developing. Before you could by 100 mail-order-envelopes for 135 and 120 at 1.59€ each.<br>

What's funny : The electronic chain Media Markt has since 3 month no E6 film, before they offered Ektachrome Elite.<br />But they still do 135 E6 developing for 1€ (without mounting) and send the film to Fuji! This is by far the cheapest offer here.<br>

Greetings Waldemar</p>

<p>A Tele Xenar isn't good for anything greater than 1:10. As David said, a symmetrical lens is a lot better. With this, your Tech III bellows limits the max. focal length to 180mm for 1:1. My advise: If you have a Componon 135 or 150mm as an enlarging lens, take it as a macro on your tech. Unscrew the lens cells from the barrel and screw them in a #0 shutter. They will fit perfect. And for > 1:1 it's easy to reverse the lens, because both sides of the shutter have the same lens thread. Schneider sold the Componons also in shutters, you will find some threads about this in this forum. Use a lens shade, the coating of the Componon isn't the best.<br>

Greetings Waldemar</p>

 

<p>Hi Francesco,<br>

not sure for Copal 3, but I have a Tele Xenar 360 in Compound 3 (I think the Copal 3 has comparable dimensions) that works on my Tech III.<br />It came on a Tech IV board with a kind of plastic distance ring/extension tube (ca.6 mm). I made a Tech III board from raw electronic pcb material and had no problems mounting the lens with the distance ring.<br />Without the ring the shutter would sit flat on the board and hit the thick vertical edges of the Techs lens mount wich would made mounting impossible.<br>

Greetings Waldemar</p>

<p>Sounds dubious to me. The old Schacht M42 lenses i have are marked A.Schacht Ulm, not München. In München was Steinheil, another lens maker for M42, Exacta and LTM. And Enna, who made low budget lenses. All these companies are long gone.<br>

Greetings Waldemar Schmid</p>

<p>Thank you Ray,<br>

really interesting. This is what I wanted to know.</p>

<p>Waldemar</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I want to add some additional questions<br />- Does the "S" have the same coatings as the "N"? There are 2 different answers above<br />- I have a 45 "S" (bought used). Filtersize 67. A very good lens, also sharp in the corners, but yet not used wide open.The "S" is not engraved on the lens like the "Sekor C" Text, but only applied as 2 small golden round stickers glued next to the "C" and near the mount to the aperture setting. Is this normal? Are there also lenses with engraved "S" out there?<br />- I also have a 55mm with such a "S" sticker? Anobody knows about this?<br>

Greetings Waldemar Schmid</p>

<p>No experience (yet) with this film, but I bought mine at fotoimpex.de, where I buy all the Adox films.<br>

Greetings Waldemar</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I am using the Efke as sheet film and there is also the gelatine layer, so I don't think its only for anti-curling. Perhaps for retouching? I do presoak before development, but some of the gelatine I think remains. The back feels sticky when wet and drying time is longer as with other films.<br>

Greetings Wldemar</p>

<p> </p>

I guess it's possible, but I think its better to put both cells from the barrel-componon in the shutter of the damaged one. Perhaps the cells are matched...

At least with my 135 Componon-S and 2 Vivitars made by Schneider enlarging lenses I can remove the cells from the barrel and screw them in a Copal 0, the distance between the cells stay the same. I sometimes do this when i want to use the lense for closeups on 4x5. Nice : for magnifications greater 1:1 simply swap the cells, they have both the same thread. Take care for flare, the coating of the Componon is poor and the front lens is not shielded by the lensbarrel.

I also have a shuttered Componon-S 150, Linhof-marked. The Shutter is a Press #1, and the lens cells habe step-up-rings from Shutter 0 to 1. With this lens, the step-up-rings have to be changed when I want to reverse the lens. Lenscells themselves have Copal 0 threads. Check yours if it is the same.

 

Greetings Waldemar Schmid

In german forums the following information was given by Maco, the distributor of the Rollei films : The 25 is a improved version of the ORWO NP 15, made by Filmotec in Wolfen, Germany, by former ORWO employees.

I have no experience with the Rollei, but used a lot of ORWO NP 15 in the 80s. I had no tint with fresh fixer made from powder, and increasing tint with increasingly used fixer. It got better when I added some hardener Tetenal Durocet to the fixer. I guess it was the acetic acid of the hardener wich helped. I still have some Orwo NP 15 and Orwopan 25, but with today's liquid concentrated fixers I get the tint. Happy I have some old bags of powder left...

Some explanation I found in old books from the former so-called GDR and in an actual PDF on the filmotec website : The film uses a special antihalation stuff called "DIOZZ" witch needs sulfit in an acedic environment to be removed.

Powder-fix used potassium-metabisulfit as acid, but liquid concentrated fix maybe use something else.

And you cannot remove the tint with exposure to light (this works well e.g. for Efke). Even after a week and even in a strong UV-source (EEPROM eraser) the tint was the same as in the unexposed control strip.

 

Greetings Waldemar Schmid

I have the Linhof/Cabin 6x7, and it is my "coolest" projector. I have a 650 W / 230 V bulb in it. For 6x7 I use glassless mounts, I cannot do this with my 6x6 Liesegang. Cannot believe changing glass makes such a difference. There is a second fan just for cooling the slide. Check this, perhabs a transmission belt is broken or something like this.

Greetings Waldemar Schmid

Sheldon is right. I have a Baierfoto-Adaptor for P6 Lenses at the M645 body. This adaptor gives an extension of about 1cm, and the P6-lenses can focus at infinity. So the P6 has a longer flangedistance and if you can find a M645 lens to P6 body adaptor (never seen one) you can only use ist for closeups.