henry_alive

<p>HC110 is much better....</p>

<p>

<p >I have been working with this combo for more than two years, and during this time I have made some tests. These are the results that I have found:<br /> Film: TX400, 35 mm.<br /> EI 200<br /> Pre-washed: Water, during 1 minute of constant agitation.<br /> Developer: HC110 (E- 1:47)<br /> Developed two rolls of film, continuous agitation during the first 30 seconds, and then 5 times each 30 seconds. <br /> Time of developing: 6 minutes.<br /> Temperature: 20ºC.<br /> Stop bath: Kodak Max Stop, 1:15, and 1 minute with constant agitation.<br /> Fixer bath: Tetenal, 1:9, 5 minutes. The first minute with continue agitation, and then 5 times each 30 seconds.<br /> Results:<br /> After having taken pictures of a Kodak grey card, I have found the following relative densities:</p>

<p >Zone 8: 1,25<br /> Zone 5: 0,68<br /> Zone 1: 0,10<br /> These densities have been measured with my RH Designs Analyzer Pro.</p>

<p >Theoretically, if you work with a condenser enlarger, like my case, a good exposed and developed film should has the following relative densities: Z1: 0.08 - 0.11 / Z5: 0.60 - 0.70 / Z8: 1.15 - 1.25.<br /> <br /> My conclusions:<br /> For my working system I can say that TX400 (EI200) and HC110 (E), 6 minutes developing time, are perfect.</p>

<p >I hope this information could be useful.<br /> <br /> </p>

</p>

<p>

<p > </p>

<p >These are the results that I have found for this combo:<br /> Film: TX400, 35 mm.<br /> EI 200<br /> Pre-washed: Water, during 1 minute of constant agitation.<br /> Developer: HC110 (E- 1:47)<br /> Developed two rolls of film, continuous agitation during the first 30 seconds, and then 5 times each 30 seconds. <br /> Time of developing: 6 minutes.<br /> Temperature: 20ªC.<br /> Stop bath: Kodak Max Stop, 1:15, and 1 minute with constant agitation.<br /> Fixer bath: Tetenal, 1:9, 5 minutes. The first minute with continue agitation, and then 5 times each 30 seconds.<br /> Results:<br /> After having taken pictures of a Kodak grey card, I have found the following relative densities:</p>

<p >Zone VIII: 1,25<br /> Zone V: 0,68<br /> Zone I: 0,10<br /> These densities have been measured with my RH Designs Analyzer Pro.</p>

<p >Theoretically, if you work with a condenser enlarger, like my case, a good exposed and developed film should has the following relative densities: ZI: 0.08 - 0.11 / ZV: 0.60 - 0.70 / ZVIII: 1.15 - 1.25.<br /> My conclusions:<br /> For my working system I can say that TX400 (EI200) and HC110 (E), 6 minutes developing time, are perfect.</p>

<p >I hope this information could help you.</p>

<p >Henry.</p>

</p>

<p>I recommend the 28-105 AFD for general purposes. In addition, I also have 70-300 AFD for telephoto needs.</p>

<p >I took my first serious photo in May 2003, when my wife gave me a Nikon N55. At that time, I did not know anything about photography, so I decided to take classes. Two years later, I built a Darkroom at home, and since that time I have been taken only Black and White 35 mm. Today, I have an Opemus 6 magnifier, a Saunders Easel and an Analyzer Pro (RH Design), the best tool in my darkroom. It is as big as 3 m x 2 m, and there is running water, cool and hoot. I am working with TX400 and HC110, even though I had worked with HP5 plus and Rodinal. I do not have the Nikon N55 any more. Instead, I have a F100 and FM3a. Some of my lenses are: 50 1.4 AFD, 105 2.8 AFD, 180 2.8 AFD, 28-105 AFD, 70-300 AFD and 80-200 2.8 AFD. All these products have been bought second hand, except my Analyzer Pro.</p>

<p >I am simply an amateur, but Photography has become in something more than a hobby. I am always studying about B&W, and sometimes I think I started too late. I do not have Digital Cameras, even though my children have a lot. I spend many hours in my Darkroom, and I hope I will be able to do it for many years.</p>

<p >Henry Alive.</p>

I have been using Rodinal over five years now. I specially recomend it with TX400, EI320, 1:50, 11minutes 30 seconds.

Good luck,

Henry.

Dear Jeff: I am not an expert so I am not going to explain you how to calibrate your film and developer combo. However, it is posible that you have made a mistake. I think the point No. 4 should be "Close two stops" instead of "Open two stops" if you want to put a Zone V image in a Zone III.

I hope to be helping.

Henry.

Hello, Dusko:

I do not have any of this two lenses, so I can not tell you which of them is better. However, I think the 28-200 has a very poor Closest Focusing Distance, and it could be important.

On the other hand, I am completly sure about Nikon 28-105 AFD. It is symply excellent, and it is not expensive at all, as you can buy it right now in Adorama by 199,95 US$.If you buy it second hand, then you can get it cheaper.

I hope this can help you.

Henry.

You can buy it at http://www.fotocasion.es/

Good luck,

Hello:

I want to thank everybody for the comments. Now, I know my lens and my camera are working fine.

Thanks again,

Henry.

Hello everybody:

I have been taken photos with my F100 & AF 28-105mm D for more than 3 years. I

usually work in manual with the two camera?s wheels to modify the speed and

the aperture (f/). Once in a while I like to select the f/ number with the

ring that the lens already has, since F100 allow to change the f/ control from

the camera?s wheel to the aperture lens ring (custom No. 22=1).

However, I have noticed that, even though I establish manually a specific f/

number in the lens ring (supose F/8), it changes to the following one (supouse

f/11) when you move the zoom lens from wide to tele (or vice). I read this

change in the viewfinder. It does not happen when I work in manual controlling

the f/ and speed with the camera?s wheels (with custom No. 22=0).

Is this normal?

Thank you,

Henry.

OK. I feel more comfortable now. I appreciate all your comments. Thank you.

Henry.

I bought a new 80-200 f/2.8 AFD, and I am using it with my second hand F100.

They both work very well together. However, there is some play between them.

There is no problem with anything. However, I would like to know if this play

is normal or not. Thank you.

I have read many books about b/w photography and, probably, the best of them has been "Mastering Black and White Photography", by Bernhard J. Suess. I bought it in www.amazon.com . Good luck.

Thank you for all the comments. I am going to work with another developer. Thanks again.

Thank you for the comments. I will work with a new developer.

I have taken some portraits with my F100, 105 AFD Macro and Ilford HP5 (400

ISO B&W). I have used Rodinal to develop the film. Unfortunatly, the portraits

have too much grain. Is the 105 AFD suitable to take portraits? Is there

something wrong with the HP5? What do you think about HP5 and Rodinal together?

Thank you.

I have taken some portraits with my F100, 105 AFD Macro and Ilford HP5 (400

ISO B&W). I have used Rodinal to develop the film.

Unfortunatly, the portraits have too much grain. Is the 105 AFD suitable to

take portraits? Is there something wrong with the HP? Thank you.

I am going to buy one of this two lenses for my N80 and N75: Nikon

80-200/2.8D ED AF Zoom or Sigma 70-200 f2.8 APO EX DG HSM. Can you

recomend me what to buy?