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greglyon

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Posts posted by greglyon

  1. Scott, here's one fact: You'll completely forget the cost about 10 minutes after you've started using a 500 for birds/wildlife. On film I think you'll be happy with the 500 + Tcs. With the crop I find I'm often using the 500 by itself. I should also mention that even though it's MF it really does 'pop' into focus. It's fairly easy to focus even on D70. I do verify the rangefinder focus when time permits.

     

    And thanks for the nice words about the photo. I'm finally starting to follow the advice I've heard so many times which I summarize as: Watch for favorite perches, come back when the light is good, get in position, get good shots!

  2. Scott, it's anecdotal evidence only, but I was nervous about buying from ebay when I first started. I've had only great experiences so far. Several guidelines to follow for best results:

    <ol>

    <li>buy from people with established e-bay records.

    <li>make sure they typically sell similar items. In other words, make sure that they're selling other expensive items and getting good feedback!

    <li>email the seller with a question-any question-before the sale. make sure they're responsive!

    <li>don't go for any unusual schemes regarding payment.

    </ol>

    That said, there's always some level of risk with this sort of transaction. Certainly the possibility of hassle and in extreme cases the loss of your $$.

    <p>I've never tried, but maybe you could get on a notification list at KEH?

    <p>Oh yeah, many of the photos in my <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=207648">Birds</a> folder were shot with the 500 f4P or 500+TC14E, some on film, some digital.<div>00Esz2-27560884.jpg.c26224c761ccef3da8cd230c03c27432.jpg</div>

  3. Short answer: Metering will work fine, none lost.

     

    I sure love mine. I use it with filed TC14E and TC20e. All metering is maintained with and without the TCs. I've used it on FM2n, F5, D100 and D70. I use it with the 14e and really can't tell the difference in quality. The TC20e does affect sharpness though. I say shop carefully and buy used. I did and have been very happy. I paid $2900 for mine in 1999, it was in near mint condition with all the original extras.

     

    A 'funny' thing I can do with the modified TC14e and TC20e is use BOTH on the 500 to get a 1400 f11. Can't expect too much sharpness-wise from the combo :). I don't know if you could do the same with your 14 and 17...proceed with caution if you decide to try it out.

  4. Sounds like a fabulous trip!

    <p>

    Thought you might like to know...it looks like you didn't allow any scrollbars in the photo popup windows (I tried it with both firefox and IE...) makes it hard to see much. I did open the windows across my dual monitor display so I could get 3 or so...but still, why go to all the trouble to defeat a perfectly fine interface?

    <p>

    Only the <i>if you're having troubles with both of these</i> section opened with scrollbars for me.

    <p>looked like a fun trip and travel photos from what I saw.

  5. You may want to try holding just about every lens combo you have available to you...you'll be surprised how often you get vignette...That said I've used the 200 f4 AIS + 50 f1.4, both 52mm threads. can't seem to find an image to upload right now though. I also tried the 200 with a reversed 17-35, thinking it'd make a vario macro! but it's weird at best and vignettes heavily and leaves nearly 0 working distance...
  6. I had the good fortune to pick up an SQ-A system for a great deal recently and I have to say that it's a nice addition to my Nikon System. Several people commented (when I was deciding) that it'd feel comfortable to me as a Nikon user and they were right. In case you didn't know, if you want some metering you can get a prism with basic metering like an FM2n.
  7. Thom Hogan will have a review out in short order too, I'd say both his and Bjorn Rorslett's opinion are worth waiting a few more days for. www.bythom.com.

     

    I sure feel bad for Bjorn about the darn drive crash...bad timing too for us waiting for the review.

  8. Hmm...given the barrel distortion I'm guessing that was actually shot with the 18-70, which means it was also at minimum aperture. Before anyone suggests looking at the exif data...the K1 precludes recording of lens info! The 17-35 works similarly though in terms of proximity to subject.

     

    As I'm thinking about this again, it'll be a fun and frustrating project for you to try photographing these little creatures from so close! between catching them just right and finding the right background (there'll be a LOT of background...) it'll be quite a task. Maybe crawling across the lens?

     

    I think that when you do get the shot it'll be quite memorable. Have fun!

  9. Arnab, speaking to the 17-35mm. It's truly an amazing lens! The only extensions I've been able to use with it are the Nikon 'K' series, especially K1. Anything longer (even the shortest Kenko) and you can't focus. I suspect the focal point ends up inside the lens. Even with the K1 I can almost focus on something touching the lens. The downside with the K rings is that you lose all metering, and they can damage parts of modern equipment. I look closely when connecting them to my D70 and lenses and they seem to work. Apparently some have been modified (filed) to clear contacts etc. I bought mine used and perhaps they've had the treatment because they seem to fit fine.

     

    Here's a test shot...<div>00EnvE-27429184.jpg.503b25b91ba8b7269e49cb14d3850555.jpg</div>

  10. I like both #1 and #3 about evenly, maybe 60/40 in favor of #3. #1 emphasizes your name more, #3 emphasizes the stylized KD more...

     

    So, given my brief analysis, maybe for marketing purposes #1 is better?

  11. Well...back in 2002 it was a $2000 camera, and for some reason the 'new' price for them never comes down as much as you'd think it would. The D100 has some features that make it more professional than a D50/70, which may account for the price.

     

    These features would include: Mirror pre-fire (and Lock up in the D200), vertical grip with controls for shooting in vertical format, more sturdy design.

     

    Generally though, if you think you may need some of the extra features that the D100 has over the D50/70 you may be better off to look into the brand-new D200 instead! It has all the extra features of the D100 AND it's a 10 megapixel camera, AND it meters with manual focus (AI/AIS) Nikon lenses, and it might have a faster auto focus though I've read mixed reviews of that so far, AND it has the superior flash system that the D100 lacks, and so on...

     

    Incidentally, where have you found a new D100 for sale, and what is it going for? Used ones in good shape seem to be going for around 6-700 at KEH.com...

  12. As everyone else has stated...up the ram. Now that I'm using CS2 I am seriously thinking of going from 1gb to 2. Depending on your system configuration it may be cheaper to max your ram now than increasing in stages. I'm running a 2.7ghz processor. Other than that, add hard drives as needed...my 270 gigs are feeling the pinch after 2 years. Also consider backup storage, I'm using both DVD-rom and USB drive for backing up files.
  13. My experience using SB-800 as remote with D70 commander is that it DOES in fact fire and contribute somewhat to the exposure. It took me by surprise at first but now that I know and expect it it usually works well. I'll have to try BW Combs' technique, sounds intriguing. I'd considered filtering the flash to match ambient light but not to drop it out of the exposure...

     

    This only became completely clear to me when I was using slow sync under tungsten lighting and had filtered the SB-800 with the amber filter, and set camera to Tungsten light balance. Any object within a couple feet of the camera gets a distinct blue cast from the unfiltered D70 flash, especially when the SB800 lights the subject from side or back. A couple feet further back and you get interesting effects like blue eyes look REALLY blue...

     

    You can also see catchlights in eyes from the D70 onboard flash firing. It's subtle but distinct if you're looking for it.

     

    I'm not aware of a way to turn this 'feature' off. I think it is required to fire the remote flash(es)...

  14. I use a noise reduction add-in for photoshop. The one I use is called "Neat Image" but there are others. Lots of people like "Noise Ninja" too. There are also ways to reduce noise without these add-ins, I think Ken rockwell has some info on it at kenrockwell.com. Other than that you're stuck with a) living with the noise or b) letting in more light somehow, be it wider aperture, longer exposure, or more actual light.

     

    Greg.

  15. try this to further illustrate the point already made:

     

    Focus on infinity, set aperture to f2.8 (it works). Now manually focus down to 1:1 and you'll see the aperture change. If you watch closely you'll actually see the viewfinder get a bit dimmer (at least i can with my 105) too. Modern Nikons show the actual aperture instead of the indicated aperture. At the other end you'll also see that you get a smaller minimum aperture as you move toward 1:1... On my 105 which shows f32 it is something like f57 at 1:1 if I remember correctly.

     

    Everything is fine! have fun and happy new year,

    Greg.

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