d._david_young

hello slide shooters:

(this is not a film v. digital question)

still love the KR 64 look and velvia. problem is, short of sending the slides to the mainland (continental US) to process E6 there are hardly or

no labs in Honolulu doing excellent developing now that Greg at lightwaves (not an arguement on his quality) no longer in business. any

one in Hawaii in same boat; any good suggestions? (do not want to process own E6-already did it before). thanks!

i have searched the web and here to no avail on this subject so if anyone has a link please post it. i have

a couple of Altman stage focusing bulb constant type lights; does anyone know of anybody that works

on these so that they can accept a Norman flash head, 2000 type? has anyone modified there own

Altmans to accept a Norman flash head? thanks!

hi Mamiya RZ 67 shooters. does anyone use a Mamiya RZ 67 camera for portraits only or most of the

time? I have the stock Mamiya brand focus screen in it already and want to buy another for ease of

focusing; yes i know the subject has been covered about the amount of lite that a prism or waist level

finder lets in, but my question is, which is the best focus screen to buy for brightness, more

appearance

of light, or appparent light and of course easiest to focus with? I don't use the split image so it would

boil down to clearness and brightness of the screen around the center itself. It slows the process down

of taking pictures to use the split image then composing again, for me anyway. On another note, has

anyone

tried the Maxwell screen on an RZ67; is it better than other after market bright screens?

I did search the forum on this subject so if anyone has a link you are welcome to put it up!

thanks!

hi: does anyone know the function of the lite gray foam inside the extention tube #1 for the Mamiya

RZ67? It is not the fabric part of the interior. I just bought this tube and the foam is cracked and

coming off in little balls when touched but still intact and not showing metal. If its function is for

absorbing light and reducing flare, should it be replaced when and if it gets worse? Has anyone out

there the same problem? thanks!

Has anyone purchased a VAC extended warranty for a camera body through Shutterblade

or any other camera website store? Is the VAC warranty a good investment? If I bought a

Mamiya RZ67 I would only want an authorized repair person touching it. Any user

comments?

Is the Mamiya RZ67 180 4.5 SB lens equivalent in sharpness, contrast, and color saturation

to the new 180 4.5 W-N lens? I searched both Mamiya and photo.net archives on this and

could find nothing on this subject. There is a noticeable difference in price between the

two

lenses.

thanks for the comments from users of both.

Sandeep, kept the shutter open on B for 50 seconds and it WAS the same alert so called

buzzing alarm named in the download. Now have to figure out why it was making that

noise. Did not check the shutter to see if it was open before it stopped but it buzzed for a

couple of minutes. May have a faulty electrical system somewhere. On another subject:

theoretically if I cocked the shutter on a four second exposure before the shutter closed

could the lens now be damaged? thanks.

Sandeep: have the RZ download on the directions and scoured the contents for a warning.

Under what heading is the noise warning signal? thanks.

Kirk, about 80% sure that it was the body as I put my ear next to it; but I'll clean the

contacts with some alcohol anyway. thanks.

no Kirk, just regular shutter speeds. I was testing the different shutter speeds with slide

film as my warranty is off soon.

I have an RZ 67 pro one body with a 110 lens and after going through a roll with my

camera attached to an RZ pro ll winder it started emitting a high pitched noise sort of like

a hearing aid but softer and higher. The winder was still on and had finished rewinding the

film. After turning off and detaching the winder it stopped making this noise. Has anyone

else encountered this? Should it be returned, either the body or winder as they are still on

warranty.

thanks for the ideas: got to keep the cameras and lenses out of plastic bags long term. But

they do keep dust out of the camera bodies particurlarly digital ones, for long periods of

time. And they do help to acclimate lenses when moving from exteme hot to cold or vice

versa. Thanks R Scott for the info on the types of controlled environmental units; I don't

have 20 grand to spend on a prime unit but if I did I would buy alot of camera stuff!!! I will

check out those links you posted. I have a glass fronted case, that is not airtight that I

have to test for humidity. I keep all of my camera bodies and gear in there; at least some

sunlight shines on them in the summer months. Thanks for the detailed explanation Kirk; I

will see if I can reach 70 percent humidity for eight to nine hours a day. I guess a sealed

tupperware is a no no unless an expensive lab type super accurate machine.

thanks for the feedback,

R Scott, thanks for the helpful link and ideas.

Gary, I live on the east side of Oahu and we just had a lenghty storm system with alot of

rain. Not as rainy as Hilo, though. I bought a used lens and it has developed some strange

swirl like opaque stuff in the inner elements after a few years so I am afraid the other

lenses may get it also. The sealed tupperware idea with indicator crystals sounds the best

way if one does not want to invest in a humidifier!

Living in Hawaii I have to put my lenses out in the sun as we have humid weather here. My

method doing this is to put my lenses in an opaque airtight plastic bag with some

dessicant or crystals that absorb water and leave it in the sun for a while. I then take it out

of the bag and flash the lenses on both sides in direct sunlight. I was wondering if using a

UV light ONLY may work at keeping fungus at bay as it would entail less steps, work and

worry about getting condensation into the inside of the lens. Has anyone a better method?

How often is often enough?

thanks for answering!

"...Armor All is evil stuff..."

please explain why it is evil.

thanks for the feedback: I've been scratching the sticky stuff off with fingernails and using

Armor All on the sticky rubber. Hoping the AA doesn't damage metal or get-on glass

areas.

I have an EOS 1-N. The rubber grip on the palm door, which is the flip open door that

hides the motor drive button options, etc., has gotten sticky to the point where it sticks to

my hand and fingers; when touched it sticks to whatever and lifts up with it. I live in

Hawaii where apparently this is one of the only places where it happens with our humidity

plusperspiration from our hands.

My question: has anyone ever encountered this and what are the solutions short of taking

it to Canon for repair; this is a large repair as the top of the camera has to be removed to

take off the door; they told me this! I have scraped the sticky rubber with fingernail and

white stuff comes off and seem to help to take some of the stickiness! Your feed-back

appreciated. thank you.

Kirk, yes I did ask the same question on the offical Mamiya website but weirdly got no

answer. That excerpt that you posted though (from the Mamiya website), doesn't it refer to

the upgrading of internal gears of the first generation older RZ bodies?

My original question regarding internal up-grades was about the differences between the

first RZ Pro bodies and the RZ Pro II bodies.

thanks.

thanks for ALL the feedback.

Chris, that is what I was hoping Mamiya improved in the internal gears!

Calvin, that would be a logical assumption. Is it also true that the gears in theRZ Pro II

body are more plastic than the older RZ body? thanks.

I just read a thread about help in buying an RZ 67 body and someone mentioned that the

new RZ Pro II body has more stronger beefed up gears than the older RZ body. Does

anyone know which gears are beefed-up?