d._david_young

<p>thanks Igor:<br>

My posted question was somewhat vague:<br>

I have a Canon 1Ds III battery that, according to the "menu>battery info" does not currently need to be calibrated. If the battery does need calibration this menu will actually say to calibrate it with the Canon charger. I want to calibrate my battery even though it "does not neet it" according to the menu on my 1ds iii body.<br>

d david y</p>

 

<p>hello<br>

How does one self-calibrate with the Canon 1Ds 3 charger:<br>

I know there is a calibration button but when pressed the light lights up to three green lights which don't blink. How can you tell it is being calibrated and how do you do it? I read the manual but it is straight forward but not too detailed regarding this. I googled this and if anyone has a link please do post it.<br>

thanks!<br>

Doug</p>

<p>Hi Bernard:<br>

thank you for that detailed response. Sorry to hear about his passing. <br>

He was very helpful and fair.<br>

thanks again.<br>

d david y</p>

<p>hello everyone<br>

I have one Lumedyne kit and it is costly to send to and from Dasaga to get the battery recelled. (besides the rules now in place to mail them in the USPS)<br>

my concerns are:<br>

1-is Dasaga Photographic still around (apologies if something happened to him) (I cannot access his website and his phone 405 682-3980 is "no longer in service")<br>

2-is there an alternative to the above or <br>

--should I just sell it as it is the 065 type which is the older one and tubes and stuff online are generally used and stick to Norman 200 portables? (parts are generally easier to access and one can use lead batteries.)<br>

thanks <br>

d david y </p>

<p>thanks <em>everyone</em> for <strong>sharing</strong> your thoughts!</p>

<p>hi Rodeo Joe:<br>

I want to keep things as "simple" as possible-"Not possible." is kind-of-a-challenge to me to do solve it:-)!<br>

"Setting the camera white balance to tungsten will make things worse..."-Rodeo, if you are referring to the poster on the previous page I believe he was referring to studio work under controlled lighting circumstances. Outdoors is totally different with alot of variables besides color temp.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>youxin ye is one of the best, good luck</p>

<p>hi Ian<br>

the color temperature from the flash is my "K", constant, so won't it make more sense to filter the lens in this solution?>thanks, DY</p>

<p>Has anyone figured a way without using gels on flash or lens to get natural skin tones with <em>only</em> the white balance on modern DSLRs? As per original question: with one main flash + ambient outdoor natural light as fill light?>D, any genius intuitions? experiments? Is it possible?</p>

<p>thanks Igor D.: I'll try it!<br>

I also use tungsten with blue gel + frosted with -1/2-1 aperture f/stop off of a flash with box for nice mix with 1Ds on sunny setting indoors with as little ambient as possibe.-.>DY</p>

<p>Craig, my sentiments exactly about light changing quickly around sunset! It would make more sense to shoot into the light (front-lit) with a warmer natural (sunsety yellowish) fill with a "whiter" flash for main light. More pleasing anyway.</p>

<p>I could also correct the color in post but it does not suit my workflow; I would rather shoot it correctly the first time!</p>

<p>thanks guys, I was <em>hoping</em> to avoid using gels: I worked for an photographer who did interiors and eyeballed balancing light by holding different gels to his eye (but skin needs more color accuracy I think). There are so many different temperature gels used between basic gels etc. to get an accurate balance; the best way besides a color meter would be to preview live on a tablet while doing a set up outdoors and balance from there.DY</p>

<p>hi all>I shoot and enjoy black and white film more than color (so there is no need to balance color): But have been trying to master one Main (light) flash (facial) portraits outdoors late in the evening with nice flat "fill" natural light to my "main" flash head.<br>

-my problem is at that late in the evening my flash's temperature is so far from the temperature of the evenings that there are different color casts on the skin. I know I can overpower natural light as fill but only want to use flash as main and natural light as fill.<br>

also, my 1Ds I is set to "sun" in white balance.<br>

>anyone have solutions or want to share their workflow?<br>

thanks, Doug Y</p>

<p>mahalo and aloha Robert...I bought your Norman 200B outfit at Imageworks Hawaii and you were kind to answer my questions (afterwards) about the cube charger that you generously included with head and a new battery for $125!<br>

>d david y</p>

<p>ok, thanks Ray. I understand (now), the crop affects the filter factor; and doesn't cut-off any part of the image!>Doug</p>

<p>Ray<br>

re: #3-I am still using film and print "full-frame" with shaved out negative carriers so there is a black "frame" around my printed black and white darkroom prints; I guess it would be best to actually test out a digital back or assist a pro who uses one to actually understand the "cropping" of the different size MFDB sensors. Does any of the image get cut-off from these sensors? (my current gear are film: 645, 67, and 135 + 6x8 + 4x5). (please excuse if this last question is naive). Also am in Hawaii so not much in way of rentals to use or alot of pros who use assistants.<br>

thanks>Doug</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I read that the fungus may have started out-of-factory before it had a chance to dry.</p>

<p>hello again Brian:<br>

This is the link to one of the fungus discussions, http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?action=printpage;topic=62192.0<br>

<br />Too bad as it supposedly has a nice "feel" to it with its' "fat Pixels". And they can be had for as low as $4000 dollars from a non-dealer.<br>

aloha, Doug Y</p>

<p>thanks Brian! I was hoping for "cable-less" plug and play; I guess the only way to do that is with a 500V and a Hasselblad CFV. Would really like a CFV-16 as first choice but am wary that some of them had fungus (or mold) problems with the sensor.</p>

<p>hello<br>

I am looking into buying a Hasselblad 500 V and attaching a Leaf Aptus 22 back to it with a CF lens.<br>

-Hasselblad V because of leaf shutter and high sync speeds for balancing outdoors; and the solid build of them.<br>

-Aptus 22 for entry level and affordability (MFDBs)<br>

My Questions:<br>

1) is it attach and shoot?: can I buy a 500 V system with lens, viewfinder and attach a Leaf Aptus 22 and start shooting right away. Do I Need Cables connecting anywhere? (Not including the ELX series)<br>

2) what does one use for post processing? best one?<br>

3) on cropping:a) is any file cropped out with the V? (I don't understand this alot but know that the sensor is smaller than the 6x6 opening on the V)</p>

<p>note: I did google search for the cable part and did not find much.<br>

thanks<br>

Doug Y</p>

hello:

I've googled this extensively so if you have a link please post it. I have two questions for those who have "been there done that" already:

-1) I already have Adobe Lightroom 2.0 installed on a computer (running Windows Vista Home Premium 32-bit) and am going to (have it

already in hand) install Kaspersky Internet Security 2010 in this system above:

--my question is, will there be a "conflict" of any kind (from minor to serious issues) with the Kaspersky and Adobe Lightroom 2.0 running

on the same computer? (I already have these so please don't convince me that another software is better).

-2) How would the Kaspersky be "turned off" so it does not function when I am using Adobe Lightroom 2.0?

 

thanks for posting if you have used this system above!

Irving Penn, for what has been done...and Sølve Sundsbø is currently doing interesting black and white studio work...

hi Josh

thanks for starting this at photo.net as not everyone goes to or belongs to other sites dedicated to Holgas. Personally, have never

participated in forums: here, at this site to ask only ask advice in past posts.

Have personally used BW 400CN in the past only a couple of times (years ago), but found it too dense (compared to Ilford XP2

chromogenic which is easier to print) in the darkroom; filters used with an enlarger with these chromogenic emulsions are also difficult to figure out and use as compared to printing a silver based film emulsion.

Do you use a Holga? Plastic Lens/glass? how do you get the vignetting with 120 film?

thanks, dy.

actually called Rainbow Photo Video on Keeamoku yesterday and they DO do E-6 with a machine once a day except Sundays!

 

"Is there a certain reason that you don't want to mail order?"

willing to try it if it is reasonable.