chema_perez

I agree with most of posts, in portraiture it is critical to be extra carefull in focusing if you uses little DOF. Take your time. If neccesary manual focus and then move your camera a little (if handheld) to find the perfect focus. The lens you have can do a lot better than the guy picture. Normally the "low quality" lenses have problems at wide apertures on edges so try colsing diagragm a step or two.... anyway, at the center of image (normally most important in portraiture) is very "clear" in all apertures of modern lenses, even the low budjet ones.

if you decide to buy another glass anyway I recomend the 35-70mm f:2,8 almost as good as the 28-70mm f:2,8 but a lot cheaper. I own one and can say it is very sharp.

And the 85mm f:1,8 almost as good as the f:1,4 but smaller and half the price (for what I've heard)

Those are the best buys IMO for the Performance/money. For a little improuvement you have to pay a lot more

Nathaniel, just for the info the diafragm aperture is not a mm diameter, just a value that tels the light it will alow, is a different diameter in each lens for the same diafragm value. (I hope my english understandable...).

I think that in the f/stop is not such a problem since in 28mm with this sensor format is almost impossible to get little DOF (only if we get very close to subject).

So the real problem would be the low speed in low light. This, again, with a 28mm is not so bad since you can get good shots at 1/30 (even less). And with this image sensor there will be almost not quality lose at ISO 200 or 400.

I think it still a very interesting street and landscape shooter, wi'll see the price of the toy.

I don't think you need any of the material you already have looking at your post...

Sorry I coudn't resist.

Leslie.

Maybe the image stabilizer would help. At least two stops.

And a window near subject too hehe.

I dream about mi Leica CM become digital...

When I saw this Sigma I thoght I still sleeping...

Then I saw the wide aperture and the 28mm equivalence...

Oops, I'm awake...

besides the DOF differences :

If you have the intention to print large formats you will see a difference in quality(deformation, aberration... most in the corners at wide apeertures), however if you stay in small prints the difference is almost invisible and the versatility of the zoom is welcome, any way you will have a lot better results than a compact camera.

If you become more entusiast, with time your eye will see more and more differences and at the end you'll want to buy a better glass...

I am a FM3a and Nikkor 45mm f/2.8P user too an I have to say that im impressed with this lens too.

It has become mi favourite everday lens and love the look of the 2.8 aperture.

I did not make tests to compare with my 1.4 but seems like the 2.8 aperture on that one isn't as good... I bough it new on eBay for 175$ and it is for sure mi best buy on Nikon lenses.

I find very practical to have the hood always put on as it is a super compact. And the lens is suplied with it AND a NC filter that would cost an extra money.

Tha focusing ring is smooooooth and great to focus accurately.

I love it! and it looks beautiful on the FM3a.

Another vote for the Yashica ELECTRO 35 GSN. I own that one and the results just seems as good as my Nikon AND Leica CM. This is not only mi opinion, mi B&W Teacher can't tell the difference if I don tell her. I'm not used to rangefinders so I use it as backup.

Each time I see the results I'm impressed. That was from far the best buy I did, 25 euros for "as new" camera.

The meter can use newer batteries! Mine still work very accurately.

It's a little bigger than QL17 but you dont mind so...

It uses aperture priority, not speed. Better in my opinion.

If you don't want to collect a lot of cameras to stay unused DON'T buy a lot of them!!

I have the canon QL17, the Yashica Lynx and NEVER take them. The only Thing about the Lynx is you can still use it without battery with external meter, but shutter speeds are often old and slow. Since the ELECTRO take new batteries I never use the Lynx.

Regards.

Thanks Harry and Csab.

I sent a mail to Dekamera and waiting for a reply with prices.

Wow 170E for a new screen... I could try to find one and install it myself in the futur, don't want to pay that money for small improvement and doesn't seem as a complicate operation. Don't have the camera jet but I hope the original screen will be enough for now.

the laetherette have some kind of painting and would like to replace it too. I willl try to find a kit that I can put myself. This is just for the look but don't want a model laughing on mi old thing when I take it off my bag... I'd like to look more like Richard Avedon hehehe.

More comments are wellcome. If someone knows about a Laetherette kit please post.

I'd like some advise, I just bought a Rolleiflex 2,8 E on eBay for 365$ and

the seller sayd it was working ok, but I suspect that a readjustement-cleaning-

overhaul would be neccesary if I want to use use it as main MF camera. I don't

have the camera in mi hands jet but the pics show some leatherette

deterioration.

My questions are:

- where can I find a service center in Belgium or near... or far. I have small

budget but i'd like a good one specialiced in Rolleiflexes.

- What are the steps on a recomended CLA... what readjustements are done? (so

I can evaluate the service for mi self when contact the them... and don't look

like a noob, because I am one!)

- Is there any chance to get the light meter to work? I use an external one

but if I can do this at the same time sould I consider it?

- I've heard that some old models had some downsides like dark focus screens

and/or mirrors. In this particular model is there any enhancementthat I sould

consider?

- Did I do a good buy for the money? well used 2,8E working and clear optics

365$?

- How about the old lenses coating, is there any known problem or advise with

these lenses? I used a rolleiflex 6008 and LOVE the carl zeiss planar and

stunning wide aperture.

Please illuminate me with your knouwlege and coments of any kind. Thanks for

your time.

Sekonic L-558 and Gossen Starlite are good choices for multi-fonction meters in competition with the Minolta Auto Meter VF, they are durable and they offer spot reading in addition. If you want same for less money there is a Shepherd Polaris Dual 5 that is cheaper, but I can't tell about the build quality of this one.

My personal choice is the sekonic L-558.

cheers.

thanks for the answers.

Yes, is Toledo in Spain, Castilla. I wont forget about mi tripod and the reciprocity correction, thanks.

"...perceptol stock" does it mean 1+0 dilution? sorry for mi bad english...

I think Perceptol is beter for fine grain and I want to try other than Rodinal (the one I always use).

I will post the results if it isn't tooooo bad :-)

Hi. I'm a beginner and just start developing mi own this year.

Iﾒm going to Toledo making some night pictures of old streets, mi

choice of film is Ilford PanF + 50 ISO for its detail.

I guess the best way is to slow it down to 25 (for ex.) to reduce

the contrast for the night illuminated streets.

Iﾒll have to do some large prints and I want to keep the fine grain.

Iﾒm using 35mm format with a Nikon FM3a + 45mm at f:8

I will be very pleased if anyone can advise me on the developer to

use, dilutions and times. I know that there is not a miracle couple

on film/developer and that I have to try and see what I like most

but I just donﾒt have the time. I have to do the photos in 3 days,

so if someone has done this same experience, PLEASE HELP

I already buy the films so another choice is just not available for

mi.

Thanks for your time and Merry Christmas From Madrid.