aurelien_le_duc
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Posts posted by aurelien_le_duc
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<p>This film was certainly manufactured in the forte plant. Since forte closure, this film has been discontinued.</p>
<p>I am sorry about that, but that is the truth.</p>
<p>So, its properties... I have only one roll in stock...</p>
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Well that's a reason to Ask Bergger to relaunch the BRF 200 film.
My first choice for portrait work, but discontinued since forte has closed.
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Robert means that it exists a clone of rollei 25 called adox 25. It is not the adox CHS25, but just Adox 25.
As far as I know, it is the same film as rollei 25. Made by filmotec.
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Hardening is not necessary at all on all modern films. That means all Ilford range of films, all kodak Range of films, and all Fuji range of films.
You can use it with Foma films in order to avoid curling if you dry by heating.
It's recommended to you it with Efke's films. As far as I am concerned, with the efke's KB25, I use my TF4 fixer. And I use a lot of care. So...
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Blue? It's not normal. I use Rollei pan 25 and emulsion is normal. Base is transparent in 120.
This film is very different from atp v1,1. Pan 25 is a classique very fine grain film, derived from NP 15 from filmotec. ATP 1,1 is derived from a microfilm-type emulsion. Very sharp, you have to use special chemistry to have a normal sharpness.
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Yes, Forte stopped production at the end of January 2007. The last runs were very poor quality controlled.
But everything is not finished. Bergger, the french society, bought a part of the production line, and transferred it to the HarmanTechnology Facility. And they have already launch their new Variable NB and CB papers (very close to Polygrade V and Polywarmtone). They are actually working on Variable CM and CB Style, and also, on Film reintroduction. So old fashioned products are not gone. And quality will be improved because it 's now made by Harman Technology (Ilford).
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Yes it's that! 1 iSO. This film is a very bad prototyp, sold as a finished and improved film. I had the same problem with the first rolls. SO I won't use the others. Too bad. If you want to make reversal BW, you can use the Foma 100R, and the special kit for inversal treatment
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I don't know where you live, but as far as I am concerned, I order it direct @ Bergger's. The stock is not out yet, and the new production @ Harman's plant has not begun yet. So the stuff you buy was made by Forte.
I love this stuff, for portraits it's great. Developed in PMK you can't find better.
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So, it's a good experience no?
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To me it seems to be infrared + long time exposure.
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To avoid scratches, use an hardener with these films.
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I would be interested in APX 25 and minox films. You can send me an email, if you want, to make proposal
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"The film is pretty good, certainly their last run (December 2006) with even smaller grain and a slightly effective lower speed (iso 25)."
What do you mean Robert? The last? there won't be any rolleipan 25 anymore?
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It will be very difficult for you to find such another film. APX25 was so unique. The only film that is the nearest is Rolleipan 25. Developped in Rollei Low Speed developer, it is very expensive, but so beautiful.
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You have to go on Ilfordphoto website
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Well In fact, since Ilford failure in 2005, All analog products are labelled Ilford Harman, or Ilford made by Harman, or only Harman. Why? because now Ilford Mobberley is a different company from Ilford Switzerland.
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If you don't have any processor, I can buuy the polapan to you... Tell me
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Well, staining developer need an alcalin fixer, like TF4. If you use a rapid fixer whatever its name, you will have results as if your developer were non staining. I don't know where you live, but if I can give you a piece of advice, get the TF4 fixer, or Berfix. Results are very wonderful with this combination.
Another thing, don't use hardenning fixer with PMK: in this case, the developer is staining AND hardening, so an hardenning fixer is not good.
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Nope Ben, only skin contact with methanol is hazardous. Vapors too. If you can replace it by ethanol, it's better. We use so much dangerous products in our lives, we don't need to add some more. If you can avoid contact with methanol, do it. However it's your health, not mine.
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I am working in a research biology lab, and methanol was very often used in multiple processes. But now, it's becomming to be forbidden, because, it's very harzardous. We have replaced it by ethanol (the one you drink) and properties are the same, but with no hazard. So if I can give you a piece of advice: NEVER USE METHANOL!
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Robert, sharpness depends on the dilution you use. If you use A49 diluted 1+1 or 1+2, you will have good results with lots of films. My favorite combination is TXP320 @ EI 200 in A49 for 10 minutes at 24?C. You can't find better results with this film.
With Foma, results are pretty good to.
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I don't know Foma 400. But I use Fomapan 100 at EI 100 and I develop it in Calbe A49 1+1 for 10'30 @ 22?C. Really god combination for fine grain.
Roll film getting fogged
in Black & White Practice
Posted
<p>Hi,</p>
<p>this issue may be due to the extra sensitization of this film to red, near infra red. Moreover the synthetic base conducts light.</p>
<p>So you have to be very careful when loading / unloading this type of film, especially retro 400S, because of its high sensitivity.</p>
<p> </p>