daniel_h_gberg

<p>I´ve pushed the Tmax 400 to iso 6400 with absolutely excellent results in Tmax-developer. Yes it will be very high contrast, but the grain is nowhere near as big as you would expect. I sometimes get about the same grain on Tri-x exposed for iso 400 developed in D76 as I get with tmax 400 pushed to 6400 in Tmax-developer.. BUT, the greyscale from Tri-x is much nicer. If I like the "digital" look that Tmax-400 gives, I would just shoot digital to start with.<br>

Kentmere 400 is also a nice film that gives looks like analogue film.</p>

<p>Here´s my thoughts about using the Nikon J1 for about 5 months:<br>

1. Its absolutely quiet. No shutter sound at all.<br>

2. Small and inobtrusive.<br>

3. Extremely fast AF. I mean EXTREMELY fast AF. And I know that no one believes me when I say this, but yes, its faster then my Nikon D3 in daylight.<br>

4. Very nice raw-files, and yes, noisy at high iso´s, but the noise is quite filmgrain-like. But as for me, noise has never been an issue, I actually quite like it, the BIG problem is BANDING, which my Nikon D3 has even on iso 200 in the shadows (when lifted) when the Nikon J1 has ABSOLUTELY NO BANDING WHAT SO EVER! Even on iso 6400 its totally banding-free. And to me, thats much more important than low noise.<br>

Please check out my blog for some examples from the Nikon J1: http://blogg.hogbergphotography.com</p>

<p>Im just trying to find a way to mask one 35mm negative in the holder.. But thats really hard.. anyone have a tip with a step to step guide?</p>

<p>When I have a zoom on I ALWAYS shoot at the longest end, usually 85mm.. That destroys my photography.. So I´ve stopped and are using a 28mm and a 50mm now. Much better for my photography and for me. Im forced to get close and be a part of the scene. There is no easy way to great images. You just have to get your hands dirty, and sometimes even plunge your head down into the mudhole..</p>

<p>Interesting.. My Pentax 67 has a brighter screen than my Hasselblad 501CM had. In fact, its on par with my Nikon Fm2.. Maybee I got lucky and the previous owner switched out the old screen for a newer one.. but I would'nt know..</p>

<p>Hm.. my Pentax 67 does not even have a lightmeter in it.. And, I dont think it would be automatic even if i put a metered prism on it..</p>

<p>Hi!<br>

Im using my P67 more and more ( ) :)<br>

My D3 has not been used for anything serious for a looong time now :) Now I would like to be able to take close portraits /headshots with closeup filters with both my 90mm and 165mm lens, what kind of filters do you recommend and what should I think about when using them?<br>

Will they work differently on the 90mm lens vs the 165mm lens?<br>

Thankyou!</p>

<p>Well, I just do it my way, and dont care what most people do, thankyou. I´ve actually almost never seen an interesting portrait done with a portrait focal lenght.. They are almost always boring in a strange way..</p>

<p>No leaf-shutter lens, just the SMC 90mm 2.8..</p>

<p>Now I have tried it. The film worked perfectly, but the gray-scale of that film was HORRIBLE! I could not even fix it in Photoshop after scanning it in with low contrast. It was like a digital b&w umage. Bright unnatural skintones and extremely black shadows.. Strange.. Well, so for now, if Im gonna shot b&w i use Superia 200 or any other color-c41 film and then convert it to b&w after scanning. MUCH better results. My best tip, DONT USE T400CN, you will be disapointed.</p>

<p>Hi!<br>

I have had alot of problems with my Pentax 67, but all of them have been because of my own stupidity. :)<br>

Now I´ve come across a new problem, sometimes some frames come out unexposed, its just like the shutter never opened. How can this be? And if the shutter curtain did not work at that shot, how can the camera just keep working? Should it not jam up or make the advance lever get stuck?<br>

No, i have not underexposed the images. :) And the red battery-light always shines bright when I test it..<br>

Please, I want to use it for my proffesional work, but I dont dare to risk frames coming out unexposed..<br>

Someone recoqnize this problem? What can be the cause?<br>

Thankyou!</p>

<p>To bad.. Cant that film in Sweden.. :(</p>

<p>Hi!<br>

Im looking for the best b&w iso 400 film for scanning regarding flatness. Ive had great succsess with Kodak Ektar color film, but now I shoot only b&w. I´ve just shot a roll of neopan thats ok, but a little curved.. Now I have a Kentmere 400 in my camera and hope that it will come out more flat then the Neopan..<br>

Anyone with experience with kentmere films when scanning? Any recommendations for the flattest 35mm b&w iso 400 film?<br>

<br />Thankyou!</p>

<p>Because of the common people notion that everything has to be C H E A P! If we would spend more money on more quality equipment, then the quality would be higher all way through. Im going Leica the next time I switch.</p>

<p>Wow!Youre a great photographer! Love the street portrait, but I´ve done years of commercial portraits and really got tired of people posing. I want the opposite now :) Unposed.<br>

Smile, and say thankyou sounds a little akward to me.. Im not look to do "nice" street photos, raw and pure, real street photos... But, I´ll sure try that one to. Many great tips from you Brad! Thankyou!</p>

 

<p>Brad, I try to photograph openly.. but its hard to blend in.. but I guess its something you get used to.. I only been trying to do good street photography for about a year now, my "blending" is getting better, but I guess I just have to let myself take the time I need to adjust to "the street flow". I could of course say "Im documenting the city" sometimes, but when I shoot a closeup of someone with a 35mm lens, what should I say then? "Oops, sorry, I was leaning to get a picture of that building behind you, but just when I tripped the shutter I fell forward"? :D<br>

Thankyou everyone for your responses, It has got me into thinking more about how I "feel" when Im taking pictures in the street.<br /> Is it good to give curios/angry people a business card or should I avoid that when shooting street?</p>

<p>Marc Todd, I think your right, but no matter how much I try to relax and just "wander about" people like STARE at my camera and follow me with there eyes until i disapear around a corner or something.. its really sick! Dont know why.. I think I look like any guy.. short hair, no tatoos, no piercing, no strange clothes..<br>

But I guess its something else.. I have no idea what to say when people ask me why I took there picture.. What can you say really? That scares me very much..<br>

And thats why I want a small, plastic simple quiet camera, that I dont have to care about when I get beaten down by some guy on the street, so I can relax without having to worry about a $5000 camera. I can heal for free, the camera cant be healed for free..</p>

<p>I´ve tried to fix a film in 30 min in fresh tmax-fixer ones, but it still came out purple. I have never gotten the purple color away, no matter how long i fixed or which fixer used. I guess its something permanent in the film base.</p>

<p>Hi, I hope its ok if ask in this thread. Is this a damage caused by my camera or from some other factor? Could it be x-rays that caused this on the left side of the image:<br /> /> It appears on almost all negatives..<br /> Thankyou!</p>

<p>I have only tried to scan Tri-x and Fuji Superia 200 and convert it to b&w..<br>

Two examples here:<br>

Tri-x:

Superia 200: http://www.flickr.com/photos/hogbergphotography/5572240944/<br>

<br />I personaly love the result I get from Superia 200 when scanned as 16-bit HDR in Silverfast Ai.</p>

<p>Craig: Yes, I´ve looked at the XA.. but all that electric stuff will hang or brake sooner than later.. So thats why I went for the Smena.. if it brakes, I can try to fix it to :) The XA´s are also EXTREMELY overpriced, and then its no fun when it brakes down a week later..</p>

<p>m stephens: I think alot of the lomo-look is created by a self-fullfilling prophecy.. People buy it because its a lomo and expects nothing else than that the images is going to look "lomo" so they make them look lomo, because thats what they want.<br>

Its a little bit like pushing superia 800 to 1600.. Almost all examples I´ve seen have been crazy grainy.. But when I push superia 800 to 1600 theres almost no grain at all..<br>

Its mostly about what your expecatations are I think.. If I dont make my images look Lomo, they wont look lomo :)</p>

<p>Thankyou, Pierre, I just pressed buy now on ebay... it was so cheap that I´ll give it a try :) Exciting!</p>

<p>Hi all analogue street photographers! :)<br>

I shoot street with a Nikon FM2 and a 35mm lens today.. But people feel so harassed when shot with a big loud clunky slr.. I want to go for a more simple way of shooting..<br>

I was thinking about the Smena 35.. How high is the shutter volume? Would it be lower volume then shutter of my FM2?<br>

How reliable is the shutter on a smena? Will the 1/250 always be 1/250 or will it get slower with time?<br>

I use iso 400 b&w film pushed to 800 and do my own processing.<br>

<br />Thankyou!</p>

<p>I want a digital Full Frame nikon 35ti compact. Talk about dream come true for all photographers!<br>

If I cant have that, I at least want a digital Nikon fm3, that to would be all photographers dream come true.</p>