david_gonzalez

<p>Kodakraft! The plastic apron instead of a reel is still the easiest to load. Too bad about the spots along the edge though.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I had a Sears kit (made by Ansco) that had tank, 3 plastic trays, safelight, paper, chemicals, and a horizontal enlarger that took 35mm, 126, and 127 negatives. It made 3X prints.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I had something very similar in the 70s. Cherryvale! As I recall it was 35mm only, but it got me started. Now my Omega colorhead enlarger sits unused, but I haven't the heart to part with it.</p>

<p>Frank,<br /> That's what I've heard. But I work on a 6 night on 2 night off schedule, so I really only get one day out of 8 to shoot and do most everything else. ( I sleep most of the first "day" off ) I wish Kodak had figured out a way to make the 1 liter packets work.</p>

<p>Thank you for the responses. That was what I was thinking, but the last time I used D-76 I could still buy new mercury batteries for my camera and gas stations still offered leaded gas. I took up HC-110 after that then my photography hobby went dormant aside from some 120 right before I got into digital. I thought that maybe Kodak had to change something for toxicity reasons or something so they upped the minimum amount of stock needed. It's good to know I can get 8 rolls of 35mm out of that liter instead of just 4. I used straight D-76 one shot too for consistency's sake.</p>

<p>(I would try Xtol, but with my schedule I'd probably end up throwing away more than half of the 5 liters!)</p>

<p>I've read many posts on this through the search and can't seem to find a definitive answer, if there is one.</p>

<p>I have a Jobo 1520 with 2 1501 reels for 35mm that takes 485 ml of solution.  Let's just say 500ml.</p>

<p>When I was a kid, I remember using d-76 1:1 in an 8 oz. stainless steel 1-reeler.  Checking the Kodak fact sheets online now says that there should be at least 8 oz. of stock per roll to use  the published times, or in a 2 reel tank to extend the time by 10% if using only 4 oz. of stock solution per roll.  In my tank that would be approximately 8 oz. stock 8 oz. water for 1 roll, or 2 rolls if I extend the time.</p>

<p>The ID-11 small tank sheet says 100 ml per roll.  I've always heard and now read that D-76 and ID-11 are the same with different additives to keep the powder fresh.  This seems to be justified in that most if not all films seem to recommend the same times in both. Using these instructions I would have the minimum stock amount easily covered with 500ml total and 2 rolls.</p>

<p>So in my tank with Kodak's instructions I would still only get 4 rolls per liter of D-76, stock or 1:1.  With what I did as a kid and Ilford's instructions, I could get 4 rolls stock or 8 rolls in 1:1.  One of the advantages touted for 1:1 besides the consistency of one-shot development was the economy of extending the number of rolls out of a given volume, but this seems to go away with Kodak's instructions, at least in small tanks.</p>

<p>So was I doing it wrong when I was a kid, or can I develop 2 rolls at published times in my tank?</p>

<p>If anyone  has tried both minimums, or extending the time with 2 rolls in a 2 roll tank, were the results substantially different?</p>

<p>Thanks for any answers and advice.</p>

I just put five rolls in the fridge. Now to just get the time to shoot it.

Some of us will have to upgrade from CS just to stay in the upgrade window.

I was wanting to upgrade to CS3 anyway. This looks pretty good.

My 20D still works fine, but my old eyes would appreciate a nicer viewfinder and bigger, higher resolution LCD, and not just for the pictures, for the menus!

I heard the 40D was a big improvement in the viewfinder department. Hope it carries on in the 50D.

Yes. That's how you used to be able to tell if a camera was "pro".

 

Of course the "lesser" cameras with less than 100% vf's always had supporters that said the 97% or 98% or

90whatever% vf's showed you what the mounted slide would look like.

 

Less than 100% never gave me any problems. If something did show up along an edge I didn't like I just cropped.

Crop most of the time anyway. I'm 100% amateur.

Working as it should today.

Thank you.

I just checked on IE7 (on XP Pro). Same thing happens. This didn't happen on Firefox 2.

 

Is it possible Firefox has changed some of its code to to the "non standard" IE code? You might run that by the programmers and see if patching for IE fixes the Firefox 3 problem.

 

BTW, clicking refresh didn't work in the Canon EOS forum at least. The same ad always comes up.

I realize Firefox 3

was just released

but I've already

noticed at least one

issue.

When I am viewing

the Canon EOS forum

and go to the

dropdown menu for

the other forums the

ad is in front of

the dropdown list.

If you try to go to

forums that are

listed below the

list, which is most

of them, the

dropdown list

disappears,

presumably because I

moused over the ad

to get to them. I

can't try to go

"around" the ad

because then of

course the dropdown

list disappears when

you mouse off of it.

It's a minor

nuisance but I

thought you would

like to know since a

lot of people will

probably be

switching to Firefox

3.

Unless you cropped the picture, you don't have the 10 in the center of the frame, so if you did use AF, center point I assume, you then moved the camera after focus. The focus and recompose dance is very iffy when using wide apertures.

The 350D that Leopold has uses a different battery than the 20D. The camera also came out later. Is it possible that Canon revamped the circuitry in the 350D to make AA's a more viable option than it is in the 20D? FWIW, I have the same experience with AA's in my 20D, maybe 20 shots top with a fresh set of NiMH's

Oops. I gave the exterior dimensions. Go with Chuck's info.

The 1550 is about an inch or so deeper than the 1500 so it may make a difference. Measure your camera with the grip attached and see what you get. The 1500 is almost 7 inches deep (6.93") and the 1550 is 8.13" so if Tom has plenty of left over space in his case my guess is you'll be okay. You can check the case dimensions at pelican.com.

I thought copyright law was supposed to make Disney happy...

(extreme sarcasm intended, delete if you wish)

G lenses don't have aperture rings so on a non-Nikon body he could only shoot wide open.

Assuming you're on a PC, right-click on your desktop for display properties, go to the settings tab, then click on Advanced. I'm on Windows 2000, but it's probably similar in XP. Then pick the highest refresh rate your monitor will allow, or at least something beyond 70Hz. I have mine set to a relatively conservative 85Hz.

 

This procedure may vary a bit depending on your video card make. You may also be able to adjust it via a utility program from the video card maker. Whatever method you use, just make sure your refresh rates fall into the range specified for whatever monitor you have. Don't exceed them or you could damage your monitor.

Set the refresh rates as high as your video card/monitor combo will allow. This will help.

But the best thing to do is take a break every now and then and just rest your eyes for a few minutes. It'll also give your wrists and rear end a chance to move around.

So naturally <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Delkin-Devices-CARDBUS-32-BIT-DDCARDBUS-AD/dp/B0000ET7JF/sr=8-1/qid=1159877198/ref=pd_bbs_1/102-1956960-8897758?ie=UTF8&s=electronics">Amazon

</a> has it for $35.

OK, Delkin makes one you can buy direct <a href="http://www.delkin.com/shop/product.php?productid=135&cat=59&page=1" >here</a> for $48. It's technically Cardbus, not just PCMCIA, but as my 6 year old laptop has Cardbus slots, yours must have them too.

I know Lexar at least had a 32-bit reader at one time because I have one. The box it came in said it was 32-bit and it blazes compared to my previous 16-bit, so don't let them tell you different. I believe there may be some info or links on another brand, though possibly dated, at luminous-landscape.com.

Just pure speculation, but maybe Canon did that intentionally to try to help reduce dust coming in around the mount.

".... if you don't wear glasses. I could never get my EOS3 to trigger reliably."

 

Can't speak for the EOS3, but I wear glasses and I loved ECF on my Elan 7e. I just had to take the time to calibrate it, then it worked great.