justin_thornton1

I am not a pro. But never have lost data when I was being paid for my work. In my experience when a card fails its before you even take the picture. I always format the cards on my computer after I copy them to my computer and my back up drive(s) and check to see they work (format them on my computer first so not to change the number sequence.) Then i format in my camera before the event. Some times when I put a blank card in it says error and can be corrected by formating it again, but I have had two that never worked again.

 

As to why canon made it a SD and CF I'd like to here too.

The Canon f/0.95 never did make it to the EOS nor FD mounts. But what really stinks is that even if you find on you can't mount it on you EOS and still have infinity focuse beacuse the flange focal distance is only 28.80 mm. While the EF is 44. I have seen on on a C mount camera, they are big.

 

Something I have always thought about the size of the new lenses vs. the old. Is that the AF and IS and etc. electronics of the new lenses is what makes them bigger. Also the use of plastics and other materials that they can't cut as thin and still be strong. If you ever seen a FD 1.4 50mm and a EF 1.4 50mm they are sort of close in length but diameter they really differ.

 

By the way must say I agree with one of the first posters. The Noctilux f/1.0 is very distinctive. very nice comparison

Something I like to add that i did not see posted.

 

Yes it is f/4.5 at 80mm and its f/5.6 at 200mm however it dose not jump to f/5.6 right at 200mm. It slowly progresses as you zoom . Like for example it can go from f/4.5 at 80m, then at 100mm be f/5.0, then 120mm to 200mm be f/5.6. I don't know the specs of your lens you mentioned. But could be likely.

 

JT

 

If you know into photography and sick of reading plain text explanations, try <A HREF="http://www.canon.co.jp/Imaging/enjoydslr/">Canon's SLR introductory site</A>. They have good information for the beginner and its not all diagrams. (It may be Canon but it all carries accost the brands)

Here is an idea that works wonders for me...

budget and save up a little each day. It will add up in the long run.

 

Talk to here and tell her your going to try saving up to the new lens purchase. Start out like with $5-$20 a week. say what you going to save it up for and stick to it. She might like the idea you can budget and save money. Mine did.

 

Some tips on saving...

It will be tempting to spend that money on something else. (I don't know how it is for you so forgive these examples) Look at what you personally spend your money on. I know so many people that spend almost $5-$10 a day on some coffee confection they don't know how to say the name of. The best thing is just when your about to spend extra money ask your self if that extra coffee drink or sub or what ever means more than a new what ever your saving for. try it.

 

You know if you save $5 a day that be about $1825 thats enough for almost five prim lenses at about $400 each in a year. Or 1 or 2 good zooms. It works. I save about $20 a week and support 3 expensive hobbies on it. you can do it just stick too it!

 

Hope it works and she lets ya!

 

Justin

 

PS!

do not put the money you saving up any were in your car, wallet, bank (unless it is one you don't go to or can't easily) or anywhere that you have access to when your out or some where you might be tempted to take it with you. As they say moeny can burn a whole in your pocket.

New Speedlite 580EX II: Master/Slave switch?

 

I have been reading up on the new Canon 580EX II and have notice something

peculiar. The apparent lack of a master/slave/off switch.

 

So I decided to look online to see where the switch went or if it lacks the future.

 

According to http://web.canon.jp/Imaging/flashwork/terminology/index.html#no018

 

It has "...Both transmitting and slave functions." However, does anyone have an

idea if it is a new menu item, or if some how it detects Its purpose

automatically or even if on the left or right side.

 

Anything is appreciated

 

Here are a few photographs of the flash.

 

Back

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Images/Other/Canon-580EX-II-Speedlite-Flash-Back.jpg

 

Front and left side

http://www.dpreview.com/news/0702/Canon/speedlite580exii.jpg

 

Front

http://www.usa.canon.com/templatedata/pressrelease/images/hiRes/20070221_hiRes_speedlite580ex2.jpg

 

Thank you

 

Justin

Yes send it to Canon would be best. Not only can there be other parts that are in need of replacement than the LCD, but it is not a simple take the back off, unplug and unscrew the LCD and replace (Like with a laptop LCD, ~4 screws and ~one cord.). I think there is solder involved.

I have two things for you that might help

 

The first is my Photography friend was out photography an old styled bridge about 4 in the morning under moon light. The area around this bridge is a dodgy place of town. When she picked up here tripod (High end Gitzo with nice ball head) and put on her 70-200mm 2.8L IS (very noticeable lens) onto her 5d to take some high way pictures in the distance. Two guys came up and mugged her for her wallet and watch by knife point. They did not even ask her to take off the 5d and 70-200mm 2.8L IS lens from her neck or did they ask for her lowepro camera bag or gitzo tripod. She gave them the wallet and watch like they ask for and they up and left with no further trouble. (they were never caught) She was just shaken up by the ordeal and now takes a buddy when she does her night shots. I might add fun to do.

 

Another thing I have found is most people who are not into SLR or DSLR photography don't know anything about them, let alone there price. I remember one time when I was shooting in a park with a 30d for a birthday party, one of the parents asked me what type of film I use. (point and shoot film shooter) She looked completely shocked that it was digital. Its seems from what I have seen that most people see an DSLR and think its film. Remember my good friend (not seriously into photography), when I first bought my 30D asked me "I thought you were a digital photographer why did you buy a film camera?"

 

Also look in any Pawn shop for photography equipment the ones in my area (southern tear part of NY and north east Pennsylvania) it is hard to find anything that's not pure consumer stuff. Heck most here you can't even find anything for SLR cameras.

 

All of you have brought up many points that are great. Insurance, hiding your logos, etc. are all great. One I have to add to that is just be weary and watchful. Look around and pay attention. You will keep your self out of a lot of trouble that way. Also. . . Don't carry a gun. . . unless you feel 100% like you could use it and kill some one if you need to. It does not take much to have your own gun turned back on you. Pepper spray is a much better idea. (don't believe me, buy some and spray your self in the eyes and mouth a few times. Just kidding)

 

enJOY

 

Justin

Hello. I suggest checking out http://www.canon.co.jp/Imaging/enjoydslr/

 

Just spend some time. and go though it and it will show you many things about your SLR system. From the very simple to the more advanced.

 

good luck

. . .Just plug in what your tests settings are in for Test ISO and Test Shutter Speed. Then put your wanted ISO in Final ISO and it will tell you what your shutter speed will be in seconds.

 

Also if your doing Night exposures I recommend checking out Radiant Vista's Primer on it. Found at http://www.radiantvista.com/archive/video_tutorials/2/

 

Also I use a Kitchen timer so I get it exactly timed right when to release my cable release. Though you can used a timer remote too.

 

Enjoy

 

Justin

Hello.

 

Personally I have found shooting at a High ISO with Noise reduction off for testing works well. Just find what looks about right at a high ISO and then this formula works great at any shutter speed ISO combination. . .

Ah yes this a great little product to have around. It fits nicely in a watch pocket and is quite tough from my travels. Does its job too.

 

It is easy to repair too. I happened to get a little tare in mine and you can seal it with those bag sealers that use to be on TV all the time.

 

Note on The Flash...

 

It will work well if you have a Flash system that meters though the lens. (such as TTL or Canon's E-TTL) HOWEVER... if you flash system has a meter sensor on the flash unit/head (such as many of the cheaper units.) than it will though the sensor off and cause some funky under exposures. Other than that it actually, like said before, diffuses the light a bit. Also I have found that the amount of diffusion/absorbed stops depends how far the flash is from the material, the further the more.

 

Just so you know you can actually see though this material when its pressed up against something clearly. Eg you top deck info screen.

 

They are worth it.

 

enJOY

Justin

I have found this "Lens in a cap" That is sort of like a pinhole in a way.

At http://www.loreo.com/pages/products/loreo_lenscap.html

 

You can stop it down to f/64. other selectable ones too. I won't go into detail about it just read the full discretion above link

 

Personally I use this as my dust cap when I actually don't have a lens attached. Its small only 1.5cm from the lens mount. So its really small. (the rear dust caps are bigger.) it's a handy little lens that's about 35mm.

 

I have also tried the taking a dust cap of the camera and burning a hole like you though and Alan davenport is right it makes a irregular hole. Also if you use a small drill bit, clamp the cap down tight on a press drill or else you have the same problem.

 

The best solution I have found is drilling a 1 cm (~2/5 in) or what ever hole dead center in the cap and tape a peace of tin foil or other thin mettle and poke a whole in there

 

Hope it helps, and I recommend the Lens in a cap its neat.

Justin

1 Lens Correction filter: Remove distortion: + 0.55, Straitened

 

2 Blank edges made flues using secretion tool and delete

 

3 Trimmed: Transparent pixies

 

4 Heal tool: Removed sun spot in lower right hand corner

 

5 Dodge tool: Removed glare on grooms head Brush 3px, range highlights, exposure 12%

 

6 Burn tool: softened shadows on faces chests and eyes. Various settings

 

7 Burn/Doge tool: made background less distracting. Various settings

 

8 Desaturate

 

9 Cropped (my action): select tool (select area), Cut, delete all, past, trim transparent pixels.

 

10 Enterned quick mask mode: selected background left bride groom and chair unselected

 

11 Exited quick mask mode

 

12 Lens blur filter: Depth map none Iris octagon, radius 6

 

13 Selective sharpen (my action) Duplicate current layer, duplicate selected channel, find edges, invert, maximum, medium, Gaussian blur, levels, set selection, Select RGB channel, Smart sharpen, set selection.

 

14 Shadow highlight.

 

15 Save for web

 

All actions completed in ~4.5 min<div></div>

It is about balancing your time. Spending time with the ones you love and doing the thing you love.

 

It takes time for people to adjusts to your new schedule. I don't know how much time you spend with them before, but now they have less time with you. It can be hard to adjust to that. I just hope that they are supportive of you. Trust me its no fun when they are not supportive. Know for experience.

 

Well there are many things you can do, most were mentioned above. My sujestion is just now and then take a Saturday off or some time you can be with loved ones. Just relax and be with them. Time is precious spend it well.

 

if you need some cheep income but with flexible schedule, try some temp work agencies like labor ready. You only work when you show up and can work as much or as little as you like.

 

Take some time for your self and decide what/who is important to you and make it your goal to keep them.

Good luck

 

JT

1

I find that Photoshop CS II's Smart sharpen works great for sports photos. If I have trouble with that, I make a selection mask with soft edges around what I want to sharpen. Keep the subject tack sharp but the noise and blurred background clean and smooth. Also look for elegant sharpen action. If you like me to I can email you the action. (forget who made it though...)

 

You can download the fully functional Photoshop CSII from Adobe's website and use if for 30 days if your want to try it out.

 

2

Ah maybe take some classes in your area or learn about sport photography, Photo.net is a great place for that, I'd suggest writing down what you would like to change about your photos and then ask about how to.

 

3

You could do that, though it may be hard getting other teams parents to go to you website, they not in your area. Maybe contacting the other schools or shooting at some of there home team events would be a way to spread the word. There are many other ways too.

 

4

Umm . . . no experience here. Sorry.

 

5

Same as above.

 

6

Sam Song is right, "Flashcards have limited writes and rewrites" though in my experience my Sony Memory stick from 1998 (one of the originals and only 8 MB) Still works fine, though it has lost a few bytes of capacity, due to age.

 

NO worries as long as you get a good card, the cheep ones can be defective.

Also ho much shock, moisture, temp, etc effects how long the card will last. The more of the aforementioned the less it will last.

 

ENjoy

 

Justin

Agreed with Shun Cheung, it should be strong enough.

 

If your really concerned just support the lens with your left hand, using your right to change settings and such So no Wight is on your right or the camera.

 

ENjoy

 

Justin T

Hello,

 

First I would like to welcome to Digital SLR shooting. Bet you its really fun and freeing when you first tried the SLR out. I Defiantly Recommend Spending a few minuets with http://www.canon.co.jp/Imaging/enjoydslr/

It is by Canon and is a good interdictory to using your new Digital SLR

 

Okay onto the problem

 

I can't find any online manual for the flash so I cannot tell you how to set it.

 

Some setting if off if they all turn out a dim,

 

Keep you Shutter speed under 1/200 sec. Any higher than that, flash dose not work well for your camera.

Possibly set your Aperture open near or at the lowest number.

 

Try raising the ISO, it should be in the shooting menu. I think 800 should work, possibly 1600, maybe less, just try and use what works. Just remember the higher the ISO the more noise there is.

 

I second all Gary said. The salesman should know how to use the flash, or have an idea. And a local photographer would be a great place to learn.

Defiantly stick around Photo.net, great place to learn and ask questions.

 

ENjoy

 

Justin T

Hello,

That is a bummer to hear that.

 

Does sound like you might be overheating them, the manual says only about 20 flashes in a quick burst before you need to give it a rest. No worries though.

 

I have a suggestion, when you get your 2, 580EX s back I would load both of them with batteries, put one on your camera, shoot a room, take the first one off, turn it off and then head to the next room, put the second on and shoot that room, take the second one off turn it off, and then head to the next room, put the first one on, shoot that room. . . .

 

just keep swapping them back and forth.

 

The best thing politically speaking is after each 15-20 burst of flashes, let each unit rest its own 10 minuets, and then use it again. But I think swooping should work for you.

 

By the way the manual says . . .

"To avoid overheating and deteriorating the flash head, do not fire rapid bursts of more than 20 continuous flashes. After 20 continuous flashes, allow a rest time of at least 10 min" - bottom of page 7 next to (!), Speedligte 580ex. July 2004 manual

If you wondering.

 

If your wondering why they can overheat so fast, just consider what a flash does, takes a few AA batters Charges up a few hundred volts of DC (usually about 320-600v). Then stores all that voltage to be delivered in a 1/7000 to 1/35000 sec burst of energy that creates basically many miniature lightning bolt in a glass tube. That is quite a transfer of electricity, producing plenty of heat in the process.

 

Hope it works

 

ENjoy

 

Justin T.

Sigma 150mm f2.8 Macro 72

Hello Think I can clarify a few things for you.

 

1. Yes a 72 to 77 step-up ring will work. The diameter 79.6 is just the biggest measurement of the lens. Your filter size is 72 so you can use filter on that is 72 on it with out adapter. With step-up/down rings the first measurement is the lens the adapter fits. The second measurement is what it adapts to.

 

2. Its like filters and how a B + H filter costs 5x of tiffen. Some step up/down rings are made out of aluminum (cheaper ones) or brass (more expensive ones). Its not too important just means that the aluminum might stick, though in my experience they have only if I over tighten it. Also, step up rings give bigger handle if it does get stuck. Though some of real high quality that have an anti-reflective coating like some lens hoods. Though I never seen any reflections from my cheep $4 one. http://camerafilters.com/pages/adapterrings.aspx is where I got mine

 

3. Step up rings don?t cause any problems with vignetting. Seeing the filter that goes on it is bigger than the one that?s meant to go on the lens. Yes I do think it do well for you. Defiantly good to test if the polarizer will work for your situation.

 

4. I don?t know about it specifically, don?t own either. However, adding a Teliconverter will take about 2/3 stop of light away and degrade your sharpness.

 

Hope this helps

 

ENjoy

 

Justin T

I have found a few comparisons in my readings

 

http://www.usa.canon.com/app/html/EFLenses101/focal_length.html

alterative...

http://www.usa.canon.com/html/eflenses/lens101/focallength/index.html

 

As mentioned above canon has one that covers focal lengths 15mm Fisheye, 20mm, 28mm, 35mm, 50mm, 85mm, 135mm, 200mm, 300mm, 400mm 600mm, and 1200mm.

 

http://web.canon.jp/Imaging/enjoydslr/p_2_013.html

This one not only shows you how the focal length changes the seen but how it changes the prospective. The focal lengths cover are 10mm, 17mm, 24mm, 35mm, 50mm, 70mm, 135mm, 200mm, and 300mm. Also, unlike the generic one above this is of a model about 4.5m (14ft 9in) away from the camera. I think its more useful for an idea of focal lengths. I believe all the photos are taken on a 1.6x Field of View camera such as the 30D. Really good comparison from Canon a lot of beginner information there too.

 

http://www.tamroneurope.com/flc.htm

Now this is a great one. It has a step-less zoom like slider from 11mm-500mm. Not only that it has the Field of view for both full frame/35mm film. In addition, you can select from the list of lenses and get a preview of what range each lens gives. However that not it! It comes with three different photos you can test with. Very good one from Tamron

If you like the tool you can download it from http://www.tamron.de/Focal_Length_Comparison.238.0.html?&L=2

You might also find Tamron?s depth of field comparison relevant. http://www.tamroneurope.com/dof.htm

 

http://images.blw.net/blw/focal_lengths/

It is a collection of photos that are at 10.5 mm fisheye, 10 mm, 12 mm, 15 mm, 18 mm, 20 mm, 24 mm, 28 mm, 35 mm, 50 mm, 100 mm, 200 mm, 300 mm, 400 mm, 500 mm, And 1000mm.

 

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/focal_lengths.shtml

This one is of a 6x6cm format but has the 35mm equivalent in yellow.

 

Sigma had one? but they either got rid of it or moved it...

 

Sorry I could not find one on Nikons website in my search. Though I do believe they have one somewhere?.

 

If you Google it you probably will find some more, but these are the ones I have found in my readings. I subject looking at prospective comparisons too because some times they seem to have focal length comparisons with them too.

 

Hope it helps and good luck shooting

 

ENjoy

Justin T.

Know that thick layer of dust and fibers. Ones put a lens with the dust caps on in my coat pocket for what was sub post to be a second and ended up being all day. Dusty Dusty dusty!. But like yours no dust on the rear element.

 

Hey I have a subjection if your looking for cheep storage, just get a shelf with a lip on the edge so they don?t role off. Works great and keeps the lenses all in sight and easy reach. Diaper bags make good big camera cases and are inexpensive. EG lots of compartments and hefty padding. Presently I keep my lenses in an padded box with dividers I made out of cardboard, cotton, and soft cloth.

 

I really don?t like the front lens caps that most lenses come with. They have gaps that let in dust. Personally I just use a really cheep UV filter as a dust cap, seals a lot better, and just in case your forget to take it off you can still shoot. They screw on so they have a little bit of a tighter seal. By the way I take the cheep UV filter off when I shoot, less fuss with image quality. Also filter stacker end caps work great.

 

Enjoy.

Here is the thing I do not get about why the 50mm prime is a poor choice for a 1.6x body.

 

To get the same Field of view on a 1.6x body with the same lens on a full frame, all that is needed is to stand a little bit further back.

 

For example if you subject is 10 feet from the camera, you just step back 6 feet. And it?s the same Field of View.

 

The only real difference is the Depth of Field becomes wider because it?s further away from the subject. In addition, the apparent Prospective changes by flattening out the subject because of the further distance.

 

Possibly if your in a very confined space or you are using a flash on the camera then the little bit you have to go back to get the same Field of View because a pain in the but. But other than that its nothing to worry about

 

I have a 50mm for my camera and love it. Never had any problems of it being ?too? long for what you could normally use a 50mm for. Just use my ?feet? zoom like you should with any prime to compose your shot.

 

For the price the 50mm F/1.8 II lens is a sweet deal, and a good lens to learn from. I?d go for it

 

enJOY

Justin

The original 50mm f/1.8 Mark I with date code 1988 still works perfectly today, seen only 2 photographers, The previous photographer used it as his main lens on his camera and it seen a lot of use.

 

This 18 year old lens has only had one issue that was corrected by cleaning the contacts. Other than that its great!

 

enJOY

Justin T

Well another technique that is safe and effective is to use Welder?s glass #14, they come in all shapes and sizes but only the #14 is dark enough to insure no eye damage. I use a round one taped to the eye peace.

 

Though they typically will give you a green, blue, gray or magenta image (depending on the exact one). They allow you to see the sun safely.

 

I found a pair of 76 mm (3 in) diameter ones in NAPA Auto parts for about $12 USD, very good too they give a green cast and under direct sun light you can see most of the scene though the view finder. Though it is dimmed like looking though a lens stopped down to f/22. (if put over the view finder they have no effect on your photo.)

 

Hope that helps

enJOY

What focus mode did you have it in? I have read and seen how having the 30D (a lot of EOS digital Heard the 5D has this too) cameras on AI Servo or AI focus can cause this banding to happen.

 

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos30d/page22.asp

Talks a little about this with the 30D (bottom of page)

 

Though in the two samples they given it does not seem to be as near as bad as your extreme example.

 

Are you using any of these lenses?

EF85mm F1.8 USM

EF16-35mm F2.8L USM

EF17-40mm F4L USM

EF20-35mm F3.5-4.5 USM

EF24-85mm F3.5-4.5 USM

EF28-200mm F3.5-5.6 USM

They seem to be the lenses that couse the most problems with the banding issue.

 

There was an article on Photo.net on the 5D and this high ISO banding issue back in feb 06

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00FQ3x&tag=

 

Another good article about it is here

http://www.dslrphoto.com/2006/02/23/chuck-westfall-comments-on-5d-camera-banding-issues/

 

It seems that the Auto Focus USM is causing the problem when it still activated as the sensor is exposed to light. (as it is with AI servo)

 

Does it stop if your in One-shot mode? That is one of the things that is recommended.

 

Hope this helps

 

Justin Thornton