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xbow

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  1. And mine is a Jersey meter(the New Jersey, not the old one)as well. I have only caught myself once or twice applying the Weston numbers instead of the ASA...as long as I remember its about 20 per 100 of ASA I'm good (100 ASA is about 80 Weston)....

     

    I checked mine on a photo shop's light board and it is still about as close as a light meter can get.

     

    As far as heavy goes...thats ok with me. It's not like the thing needs a pack-mule to carry it...

     

    John

  2. JR,

     

    Thanks for the tip! Unfortunately, I am just learning this camer and haven't figured out much about it yet. As soon as I learn something, I will pass it on. I will say that the functions on this camera are not as intuitive as my Super Ikonta.....but then again this is my first TLR.

     

    Thanks

     

    John

  3. Thanks, I figured out the film thing....on the Favorit, there is a film number window just forward of the film advance knob. You put film in and crank the knob till it stops....it will read 1 and I am ready to shoot.

     

    I hate buying a photocopy manual for 20 bucks when so many are usually available online...I guess I am just cheap.

     

    Thanks!<div>00Fl8q-28985484.JPG.a719dda8708e231517c79b57466c8d32.JPG</div>

  4. Can anyone help? I acquired an Ikoflex Favorit today. It's pretty

    dirty, but seems to be in reasonable shape otherwise. Does anyone

    know of; 1) someone who can do a CLA/Restoration on the camera, and

    2) where I can get a copy of the instructions manual.

     

    There is a trick to being able to fire the shutter, but I can't

    remember, and can't figure it out.

     

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!

     

    John

  5. Perhaps you have worked out some of the gumminess ....no doubt a CLA will be a good thing.

     

    Don't worry about the hard to cock thing...I have an older model where the fastest shutter speed is 1/400. To get that fast (and faster) there is a second stage (for lack of a better term) spring to give the mechanism an extra boost....so that is normal. So up to 1/250th, cocking feels normal, but when cocking for a 1/400th shutter the last little bit of cocking lever travel is harder.

     

    Make sense?

  6. This shot was taken with my 531/2. The lens was fairly wide-open at f/4.5 or so. While the image has been cropped, the right edge is the edge of the negative as well. The lens performed pretty well, in my opinion.

     

    The film is Fuji Reala 100, C-41 processing, scanned without enhancement by an Epson Pro 4990. I used Photoshop to turn up the lights.....<div>00FLCk-28325084.JPG.280ed7a93214d9deb00792902dd6ddeb.JPG</div>

  7. Ok-here's the deal. I have a couple of nice Kodak 3A FPK cameras.

    I did manage to find a roll (new-someone made it for me) of Type 122

    film to use, but the guys who makes it only makes four rolls a year

    and I dont even get all of them.

     

    I bought a combination back and gathered up a whole bunch of plate

    holders. I also had several aluminum plates made to adapt the plate

    holders for sheet film. This will allow me to take pictures with

    the cameras on a more routine basis.

     

    I have no developing facilities or skills. I do have an Epson 4990

    Pro, so printing is quasi-covered.

     

    So to the question- does anyone have any idea how or where I could

    get the BW type 122 developed? How about the individual 3 1/4 X 5

    1/2 sheet film negatives- how/where can I get them processed. I

    would like to use both BW and color in the sheet film. I am digging

    around here looking for film schools, etc., but no luck so far.

     

    Thanks!

     

    John

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