paul swenson
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Posts posted by paul swenson
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I used to work at a lab that used the Jobo CPP-2, so I'm sold on rotary processors. I'm looking to purchase a unit for myself and the CPE-2 is more in my budget, but obviously a step down from what I'm used to as far as agitation and temperature control. I would be using this unit for processing B/W film and perhaps some c-41, specifically XP2 or T400CN. I'm not to familiar with this unit except what I've read on Jobo's website. I run a small portrait/wedding photography business, so I need something consistent, durable, and reliable. A good unit?
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Jim's advice is of course excellent, and the most practical for a
consistent workable solution. Regarding the Omni-bounce ,I've heard
you can make your own for a couple of dollars by cutting off the
bottom of a plastic bottle of rubbing alcohol, or similar, with a
smoky white plastic and big enough when cut off to slip over your
flash head. I agree though that these work better with horizontal
framing. I personally prefer a flash that swivels, not just for
vertical bounce, but for rear bounce with horizontal framing.
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Some photographers swear by a little device called the Stofen(sp?)
Omni bounce. It is a relatively inexpensive plastic diffuser which
slips on over the flash head. When the flash is fired, light is
sprayed in all directions, that is, in front, up, and behind you. I
believe this is most effective when used in a room, where there are
walls and ceilings to act as reflectors as opposed to outdoors. In
the absence of a swiveling flash, this might be the next best thing.
Stofen does have a website, I'm sorry I don't know the address though.
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For anyone checking back, here is the email response I recieved from
Sigma regarding this problem.
<p>
Dear Sirs,
<p>
Thank you very much for your E-mail.
<p>
First of all, we regret very much that our customer had such a
trouble with
the Sigma product.
<p>
Your lens is required for free upgrade to be compatible with Canon
Elan7
camera, therefore,
<p>
we kindly ask you to return the product to Sigma Corporation of
America.
<p>
It will take 3-4 days for returning.
<p>
You cannot control exposure, therefore, please do not take a picture
with
<p>
the lens and Elan 7 camera. You will get over exposed picture.
<p>
Kind Regards,
<p>
SIGMA Corporation of America
Service Department
15 Fleetwood Court
Ronkonkoma,NY 11779
U.S.A.
<p>
Tel: 631 585-1144
<p>
Fax: 631 585-1895
<p>
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Thanks all. Yah, it is a 105, not a 100. I discovered the problem
just yesterday with slide film in the camera. Thanks Roger for the
eye opening info. I just emailed Sigma concerning this problem and
if anyone is interested I will post back with there response.
<p>
-Paul
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Testing out my recently purchased Elan 7E, I found that the depth of field preview doesn't work with my Sigma EX 100mm 2.8 macro. It works however with all my Canon EF lenses. I put my Sigma lens on my EOS 3, and it stops down fine with the DOF preview on that camera. Anybody know what gives? Could this be something peculiar to the 7E?
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I have a Rolleiflex Xenotar 3.5, circa 1961 - same thing, the word imprinting on the edge of the film does bleed into the very very edge of the exposed image. It's never really bothered me though, and hasn't proved to be a problem for me.
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The film flatness issue is one of the arguments for digital (filmless) cameras, where this is a non-issue. I'm including a website address for a rather lengthy and technical article on film flatness, but informative none the less:
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Here is an address you may want to check out-
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I highly reccomend you go to http://www.photo.net/photo/ and search the
archives as the chromagenic films have been discussed considerably
there.
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Process one of the rolls and you can check for fogging. Obviously
you should see nothing but clear film base.
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I think it's been shown that standard x-ray baggage scanners will not
harm film, especially just one time through. Recently a new
highpowered anti-terrorist scanner has been placed in airports around
the world. It pre-scans with a low powered sweep and if it detects
anything suspicious it hits with a high powered scan which will
definitely fog film, whether it's in a film shield bag or not.
<p>
Chances are the machine you checked your film through was not one of
these. But the moral of the story, whenever possible have your film
or camera bag, hand inspected.
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The drive button which controls single shot "s" vs consecutive
shooting "c" should also have a third option, a little clock symbol,
that's your self timer setting.
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John, I would hope that Edward doesn't aspire to be a Bresson or a
Newton or a Gibson. What's the point of trying to copy someone
else's style? All those aforementioned photographers sought out to
define the singular clarity of their own vision. (Which, by the way,
all artists should do: Edward, myself, anyone). This is why to a
certain extent when one runs into criticism that's so diametrically
opposed to what one is doing I think you have to take it with a big
grain of salt.
<p>
There are many different approaches to portraiture that are valid.
When I look at Edward's portrait, I don't see it as something done by
a polished professional. I see something experimental in nature,
with both merits and flaws. So do I judge it by the same criterion
that I would judge a published print made by Ralph Gibson? I don't
think so.
<p>
Now if you are going to come back with a response saying that you do
not compromise you critical opinions no matter what the context of
the work is because that would compromise you integrity, then we just
simply disagree on approach.
<p>
My comparison of Edward to the "rest of us" in this forum is not an
accusation of mediocrity, that is unless you are assuming that we are
all mediocre. I am assuming this forum is made up of photographers
of many skill levels, but with a common love (hope that's not too
warm and fuzzy). It's just that I assumed that none of us are dead
or famous. I apologize to anyone if that's not true.
<p>
You obviously have put a lot of thought into your subsequent posts
on this thread, and they offer some valid opinions on style and
criticism, but my major objection was to your first post which was
blatantly adversarial and counterproductive to this forum.
<p>
To Edward; I obviously don't know you, and I feel that you're name
is being batted around like a beach ball, Thanks for inadvertantly
creating an interesting and thought provoking discussion.
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The original darker photo has lots of merit. To simply dismiss it as
a "bad Picture" strikes me as a real ego trip on the part of whoever
would say that. I mean, who are we critiquing? Are we to hold
Edward to the same standards as Avedon or Bresson. C'mon this is
just a guy who shares a common interest with the rest of us.
<p>
Taking a Vince Lombardi approach to this forum when giving critiques
is absurd. Besides even Lombardi gave pats on the back once in a
while. The tough love approach to critiquing or teaching is such a
cliche, great for anecdotes and the movies, but otherwise totally
overrated.
<p>
This photo has great mood. I don't mind at all that their is very
little if any shadow detail on the shadow side of the face. I feel
that the imaged should be cropped to exclude the lower two thirds of
the image. But we all realize this is a polaroid, no negative in
which to make a cropped print or mainipulate image densities, and 4x5
to boot, technically a very challenging medium. Is it a perfect
photo? No. Am I going to patronize Edward with a condescending
lecture on what philosophy he should engender to become a great
photographer? No.
<p>
This thread demonstrates there are many varied opinions when it comes
to critiquing a single image. It takes a lot of temerity for one to
shout that his is the only right one.
X-tol dillutions
in Black & White Practice
Posted
I would highly encourage you to go to Kodak's website and read the
data posted there regarding X-tol, dilutions, storage. Many of the
above concerns are addressed there. Developing times are posted for
many of the common films, including Ilford, Agfa and others.