daniel_janssen

Short question: the Hassy 50 mm Cfi has two focussing rings: one for

normal

focussing and one for the floating lens element (four steps: 0.5-0.8;

0.8-1.2; 1.2-4; 4-inf.).

But how do you set the floating lens when you are shooting a

landscape with

some interesting foreground at 1 meter but you want the background in

focus

too (which can be done at F32)? Do you choose 0.8-1.2 (for the

foreground)?

Or 4-inf? The manual doesn't provide the answer.

 

Daniel

Hi Don,

 

'unfortunately, the weather forecast for Southern Utah includes thunderstorms, clouds, and rain for most of the week'

 

Unfortunately!!! Man, this might be a gift from the photo gods. Be alert all the time, especially the minutes right after the thunderstorms. Best light you'll ever have. Black & White will be great but the colors can be tremendous. Polarizer might help. Maybe a faster film than Velvia. One of my best shots of the Grand Canyon is in the rain. Different than most other shots you'll find of the canyon. You can do the same in Utah. I would love to see a shot of delicate arch with lightning on the background. Those dark skies can make a great contrast in Bryce, etc. Do not be discourage by the forecasts. The worse weather for any photographer is that typical Utah sunny blue skies type of weather.

 

Have fun. I envy you.

 

Daniel

Correction: you cannot use lens shutters on the 201 F. You can use them on the 203 FE, the 205 FCC, and the 2000FC, etc. Sorry for the sloppy first response.

 

Daniel

Hi,

 

Unfortunately, you cannot use lens shutters on the 200 or the 2000 camera's. CF lenses will work fine in the F-mode.

 

Daniel

Hi Martin,

 

I was in New York a year ago and visited Ken Hanson and B&H. I liked Ken Hanson the most (for second hand that is). The had an enormous collection of Hasselblad and Mamiya that looked like new. For instance: he had a shelf full of Mamiya 6's. All a bit pricey perhaps, but in very good condition and therefore worth every dime.

 

Daniel

Hi David,

 

I use the LowePro to carry my hasselblad 4 lenses, 2 backs, film and filters and of course my tripod. Together this weights about 18 kilogram (about 40 lbs?) and I must say, this is very heavy for long distances. I wonderif the rest of your 35 mm stuff will fit in and still leave room for lunch and water, but the backpack is great: stable, strong and fits like a glove.

Maybe a bit off topic: buy a couple of walking poles. This will make life on the trails a lot easier when you carry your backpack.

 

Daniel

If a number 8 is too weak, than you might consider the 12 and 15. Furthermore I think the 11 green/yellow is very useful when you photograph landscapes with foliage. The use of an orange filter is in my opinion questionable. In the South West and on higher altitudes it works almost like a red filter: it darkens the sky to almost black and it darkens foliage and reduces shaduwdetail. I would say: for natural looking landscapes 12 and 11. For more contrast: 15, and I would never consider an orange or a red filter as a part of a two filter set.

Hi Salvador,

 

I know this is a bit off topic, but for wedding I would consider the Mamiya 7. It will save you bundlle and the Mamiya is much easier to work with in crowds.

 

Daniel

Hi,

 

<p>

 

Now that Agfa discontinues the wonderful APX 25, I am looking for an alternative (in 120 format). Any suggestions for a new film/(rotation) developer combo?

I liked the APX 25 for scharpness, lack of grain and wonderful grey scale.

 

<p>

 

Best regards,

 

<p>

 

Daniel

Hi Lisa,

 

This is terrible, not your fault, but it is your responsibility to deliver your work. As the film is destroyed, the only thing you can do, is offer some kind of compensation. I would suggest that you offer the newly weds an extra photo session, perhaps one where they can set themselves free totally after all the formalities: a friend of mine took a couple to the beach the day after where the bride ran into the sea in her wedding gown!

 

Hope this is of help.

 

Daniel

Hi,

 

Be carefull with overexposing your black and whites when using a yellow or orange filter. As Ansel Adams learned from Edward Weston: dunes are merely yellow and thus all yellow light will be passed through the (yellow) filter. The main effect will be: (at least one stop) 'overexposure when exposed normally. Conclusion: normal exposure will do the trick. By the way: when using (B&W) negative film, expose for the shadows, not the highlights and you will have enough shadow detail. Reduce development if the contrast in the scene was too high.

According to Zeiss news letter this summer, the new version is improved. It weights 250 gr less, which improves the handling. But more importantly, sharpness and contrast should be better. Read for yourself on www.zeiss.com and search for the newsletters.

 

Daniel