elnoralouisa

<p>If the light bulb in your head hasn't gone on yet with F-stops, ISO's and shutter speeds, for sure try Bryan Peterson's "Understanding Exposure" I did it the hard way of trying to learn from reading complicated articles on the internet. It's one of those things that one day the whole thing will just click for you, and you will look back and say, wow, that wasn't so difficult, and it will seem plain as day, but getting to that point just reading a bunch of articles can seem like the day will never come.</p>

<p>Those pictures are enough to make me sign on to Amazon and buy the Tamron :)<br>

(My budget says, I don't think so!!!--oh well, maybe another day)......<br>

Question--did you use a tripod with a Tamron or hand-held........</p>

 

<p>You are talking two different subjects here.....if you want to learn to use your camera, yes, the above mentioned magic lantern guides are great. There are also DVD's about your camera also available on Amazon.<br>

If you want a photography book, I would start with Bryan Peterson's "Understanding Exposure" which is available on Amazon and most bookstores. You get through that book, you will be taking some decent pictures.</p>

<p>For quick and easy, and free, try Picasa from Google. <a href="http://www.picasa.com">www.picasa.com</a> Actually, you can do most basic adjustments. For Photoshop, if you don't want to spend all the money, get Photoshop Elements, and then when you are ready go to PS. Please realize that with Elements or PS, there is quite the learning curve. You don't just buy it, and immediately know how to use it.</p>

<p>Portraits, get the 50 1.4 for cheap, but good lens.<br>

Notice that Sigma is not really a macro...."Maximum magnification of 1:2.3 enables close-up photography LIKE a macro lens" It will work as a macro lens and get you closer pics, but a true macro is a 1:1 magnification. Also, might be just me, but I prefer something like a 70-300 "macro" as in 1:2 lens because of the distance. Often find it hard to get close to the flowers or bugs. I had a 50mm 1:1 macro, and just too short for bugs!</p>

 

<p>I agree, you need to know what you need. A 50mm 1.4 is always good, and cheap. If you switch lenses a lot because of the cut off at 55, then a zoom lens that goes from 18-? would be good. For me a true macro lens would be on top of my list, but it all depends on what you spend your time doing.</p>

<p>Not much you can do about it. That's the way babies are made :) I think you did a fine job on coloring, but that is the reason why most newborn pics are in b/w.<br>

The one thing I don't like for the baby, and the sister, is many of the pictures the head size looks distorted. A longer lens, or not so close would put them back to their natural size. Compare some of the close-ups to some of the family pictures, and the kids look different.</p>

<p>Having done a few websites, it's work for sure. Use Smugmug. I have never had a problem uploading with their uploader (above mentioned to use a different uploader). </p>

<p>Well, a search in this forum would have given you all the answers, as this question has been asked sooooo many times, but well........why not answer it again?<br>

It's a classic course. The Pro course (even though rumor has it that it has been somewhat updated), carries all the timeless theory of photography. Unless something has changed, I was overwhelmed with trying to figure out which type of film I needed for this or not, and how it was to be processed, etc. (The quizzes were totally film based). Thing was, I wasn't using film, and didn't plan on ever using film. I am not saying the course isn't good, it's just the more advanced units were soooo out of date. Many people really like the course, though. <br>

I also started their new digital course, which in a few cases was already out of date when it was published. It's for total beginners, so Robert, for sure not for you.<br>

My preference would be online course such as <a href="http://www.betterphoto.com">www.betterphoto.com</a> or <a href="http://www.ppsop.com">www.ppsop.com</a>. My reasons for prefering these are....<br>

The instructors can keep the information current. The big, big thing for me is feedback. With the online courses, I can get feedback within a few days, AND I can respond back if necessary. I had two different cases with NYIP, where you wait over a month for feedback, and the instructor's feedback was either useless (for the digital course, his response was 'oh, you obviously know what you are doing') I don't pay for a course to get that kind of feedback. Another instance was one where the instructor thought I had totally changed the picture in Photoshop, saying it was impossible to get the lighting the way I did. Well, it wasn't Photoshoped, but with an online instructor, I could have sent a note back saying, umm, yeah, I really did it that way. I guess I am not patient and want feedback sooner. <br>

The other thing I like about online courses instead of NYIP is questions and answers with the instructor and other students. It's helpful to also see other students work, and get ideas or see their mistakes in a non-threatening atmosphere. There was a message board on MSN until a year ago for NYIP students, but it was more competition than helpful. Unfortunately, the girl that was in charge of it wasn't always sweet when people were asking questions (she was not on the NYIP faculity). I guess now they have their own message boards, so one would hope things have improved.<br>

The other thing, and this depends on your personality, but can you be disciplined enough to get the assignments in? Saying oh, you have three years to finish the course is not a good thing for most of us. Saying, oh, you have three pictures due by Sunday afternoon for an online course is another story, and somehow you get them done. Last cost I heard for the Pro course from NYIP was about $800 to $1000 depending on if you pay in full or not.<br>

You might also, if you are near a big city, check your camera stores for classes. The camera store near me is offering more and more classes, I assume because camera sales are down, and they need to make money somehow. These are usually just one day classes, so easy to schedule. <br>

Just my opinion :)</p>

<p> </p>

<p>You don't say what kind of mentoring you are looking for. Are you looking to do more landscape? Are you a wedding photographer, etc.? For workshops, usually contact local camera stores, they would have information on what is going on in the area. <br>

Also don't pass by the fact that many of what are considered some of the great photographers in the United States, in addition to doing local workshops also teach online. It's not the same as being there, but I guess we can't be everywhere, and this works for a lot of us.</p>

<p>I would suggest the book "Understand Exposure" by Bryan Peterson, available on Amazon and many bookstores, or if you are up to a class, his online school is <a href="http://www.ppsop.com">www.ppsop.com</a>. The other good online school is <a href="http://www.betterphoto.com">www.betterphoto.com</a> Both would give you some help as far as what you are doing right or wrong with your pictures. </p>

<p>now I know why I bought my camera bag online this week :) No temptation. I have the K20D, and I don't know, from what I have heard so far, doesn't seem like it's on top of my wish list. Not like the difference between the k10d and k20d. Maybe I am missing something?<br>

(Of course, I do have to go to the camera store tomorrow morning.....umm, wonder if they have it in stock........probably not, they aren't big on Pentax.)</p>

<p>You want to really know what people think of your pictures, you should post on the wedding photography board (of course, you need to do a wedding). <br>

I don't see anything wrong with you making comments about other people's work. I think most people are going to know if the person saying the things is knowledgable or not, or if they just like the picture (nothing wrong with liking a picture, is there?).<br>

You might also want to take an online course at <a href="http://www.betterphoto.com">www.betterphoto.com</a> or <a href="http://www.ppsop.com">www.ppsop.com</a> and get some real comments that will help you from an instructor.<br>

Think I will go look at your pictures and make some comments :)</p>

<p>I've found with flowers when you are that close (and probably the same with the last pictures, that F8 will do fine for buds, but for whole flowers, you need at least F11 to get the whole flower in focus, and still throw out the background. Even at F11, when you are that close, the edges of the flower could be soft.</p>

 

<p>Lots of assistants! I would personally say No Thank You! And that's after taking pictures of hundreds of dogs, and a few cats.<br>

Probably two backgrounds, maybe one that is red, white, blue for the season, and another just plain background, with something high enough for the smaller guys to sit on. Maybe a bench or something, if you are going to use the person or child in the picture too. Enough lights so that you don't have to use a flash. Are you printing there? If so, a laptop, and a printer. Most of these things I have taken my dog to, the people get behind, you end of waiting forever, or they use the cheapest p&s camera they can find, so you get pet eye--I was actually told by a professional photographer at one place that it was impossible to get a dog's picture without pet eye--oh boy!!! (usually I bring my camera along and ask to take my own pictures while they are doing it :)<br>

I did go to one pet store where they took the pictures, developed them off-site, and then I came back and picked them up later. I had to pay for them (like $25), when the picture was taken. That was probably the best one. It seems there are always problems when you try to bring your own printer.<br>

Absolutely no fear of dogs and cats, because some don't do well in strange circumstances. Just be sure to have enough people helping you. That would be the biggest thing.</p>

<p>I would go with one of the brands that has Image Stablization right in the camera, only because of your price range. Pentax has some cheaper cameras. <br>

Have you thought about just getting a high end point and shoot. There are some great cameras out there, and they would be alot smaller and lighter for world traveling. Also, if these trips are soon, you might not have the time to get through the learning curve that comes with a DSLR. </p>

<p>Can't read the data off this picture. What does your viewfinder say when you are taking the picture for the F value?<br>

Like I said, never used a lens like that, but surely there are people on here that have.</p>

<p>Ok, after wanting a lensbaby for a few years, I broke down and bought one. I bought the Composer which is the newest generation of it. I bought it after I heard a podcast by one of the Lensbaby gurus. For those of you who have it, you know that there is basically no instructions with it. I thought, ok, attach it, and use it. NOT!<br>

I asked a simple question on the lensbaby forum on the lensbaby website about what distance the camera should be set it when it turns on and asks. The answer was that I should be researched all of this before I bought the lens. I guess it's supposed to be 50mm. Also, I didn't realize you had to go into the custom menus and change setting for the apeture rings.<br>

I also didn't know about all the new optics. Do I really need those? I really wanted this as more of a 'fun' lens, and didn't realize life was going to get so complicated, but yet some people think they are the best thing around.<br>

So....what's your opinion???</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Why don't you attach a picture for us? Are you sure it's a totally manual lens? I have never worked with an old lens. Are you absolutely sure the camera isn't setting it's own apeture?<br>

Do you have the specs from one of your pictures that says it is in fact F22?</p>

<p>LOL, I read this, and didn't even realize you did say that backward. I think you need to really sit down and ask yourself what kind of photography needs you have if you are considering a 5D. That's an expensive camera, and used mainly by wedding photographers etc. The range of regular DSLR's is so great to choose from (and cheaper!), than going with a camera that isn't for everyone.</p>

<p>I think it is partly the economy. Either people are jobless, or have taken pay cuts (which is just about everyone I know), so it's think before you buy.<br>

The other thing, though, is people are so into digital. Digital photo frames, pictures being passed back and forth, etc.<br>

I know you are talking 'art' but I would think there is just less demand for it, even without the economy and it's problems.</p>

<p>You also don't have to use the program that came with your camera. You can use Windows or any number of other programs to transfer. Most computers have card readers these days. My friend just had her cord die on her, bought a card reader for under $3 (they have them as low as 2 cents!) on Amazon. I changed over when one of my cameras it was very hard to get the cord in and out. Once you use a card reader, you just don't go back to using the cord. Also found it was a lot faster.</p>

<p>Most point and shoot cameras have enough internal memory for about 5 or 6 pictures. Also, most of us use card readers these days, so if you do, you would not even be able to access the ones on the internal memory.<br>

Memory cards are VERY cheap these days, so just use that, and don't even worry about the little bit of internal that you would have.<br>

DSLR's on the other hand don't have any internal memory, so have to totally use cards.</p>

<p>No, it wasn't, and yeah, I tried turning it off. I was playing with the dust thing when it happened. I just reset the whole camera, and it's fine now. Now I have to go back in and try to remember what was what. At least it's back to normal. <br>

Still wondering how the sharpness thing is set, or did they mean where you set it for 'natural' etc?</p>

 

<p>help.......I just read this, and was looking for what on earth you had adjusted on your camera. Never did find it, but now my camera is set for 1.6m pictures (didn't even know it would go that small!). When I go to change it, it will not let me. The only things I can change on the REC mode menu is jpeg quality, and RAW file format. Nothing else........help!</p>