Gus Lazzari

Rick that's a beautiful sample of a Nikkormat EL !

"Wasn't the last EL version badged as Nikon?" - John Seaman

Yes John, the Nikon EL2 was the improved version of the Nikkormat EL units (See picture).

In fact, Ken Rockwell has a fantastic article on the EL2 model - Here's a few key quotes from the article :

"1977-1978: Nikon EL2

This new Nikon EL2 changed the brand name for this "consumer" camera from Nikkormat to Nikon (just like Nikon's pro cameras).

The biggest change is the new lens mount that's compatible with the new automatic-indexing (AI) lenses.

Relatively unique in the EL2 that there are two power and lock switches: the usual pull-out the wind lever switch of the Nikkormat EL, but with a unique lever around the shutter button, either of which will turn on the EL2 for you !

EL2 adds a wider ASA range, adds an exposure compensation dial, replaces the EL's CdS cell with a silicon photo-diode (SPD) light meter cell (Very Fast), adds a manual 8 second speed (the EL only went to 4 seconds in manual), and adds a unique shutter ring lock switch for use with the new AW-1 winder. There's also a new battery removal helper.

The EL2 stops down the diaphragm all by itself when using mirror-lock-up; the EL required you remember to do this manually with mirror lock-up. The EL2 also takes-away the manual setting for M (flashbulb) synchronization and does it automatically at higher speeds"

https://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/el2.htm

Finally, Rick pictures a Alkaline battery in use. Don't use Alkaline formula batteries in ANY photographic application ! 

Use instead the recommended Silver Oxide or Lithium formula units (SPX28 silver oxide or 2CR1/3N or 28L Lithium formula).

Alkaline voltage declines progressively AND leaks unexpectedly - Devastating to the mirrorbox of these Nikkormat EL & EL2 cameras !

"thinking that there are screws you can get to from the front somehow"

The key is to extract the 3 set screws contained in the Name tube (serial number etc.). This tube conceals the service access.

The rest of the way in the tear-down will utilize YOUR commonsense...

This is a re-post from back in 2018 in order to correct a LINK.

- - - - - 

My preference is for the much more stable "silver oxide" batteries.

That said, one should either acquire a reusable washer to slip over the "silver" battery for a 1.5V output, or

the BEST & highly recommended step-down adapter.<<< click

Further comments on battery choices are here: Silver, Alkaline & Zinc-Air batteries <<< click & scroll down for my input...

A fellow technician in the Hasselblad repair world, passed away on August 5th.

Here's the last posting on his website (by his daughter Jill) - - - https://www.david-odess.com/

Very sad for the family and those left behind...

Wilson Arch, also known as "Wilson's Arch", is a natural sandstone arch in southeastern Utah, 24 miles south of Moab.

It has a span of 91 feet and height of 46 feet. - Shot with a Pentax Asahi Super-Takumar 8-Element 50mm f/1.4

Adding to this discussion concerning the use of the Mamiya medium format cameras vs. the AMAZING Hasselblad SWC as it relates to adding Panorama 'Mask Kits'.

- This is now my favorite camera combo to carry around; a Hasselblad SWC with a 6x3 Pano Kit -

The SWC and Hasselblad's in general, feed their 120 film vertically. This ADVANTAGE allows for the 'stacking' of the images on a roll of 120 film. With this up/down direction (like a Panavision film magazine), one can achieve a minimum of TWENTY 6x3 PANO images ! -

Take that noisy motor, take-up teeth breaking, vignetting Fuji lens and inevitable electronic problem XPAN's ! 

More film efficient, far cheaper and more reliable than either the Mamiya OR XPan/Fuji TX-1 cameras...

- - - - -

Okay, so because the old style C12 Hasselblad backs have a MANUAL RESET of it's counter & the ability to also MAUALLY advance the film, these become the best Back's to use when utilizing a SWC as a ZEISS lens PANO. 

1. The OEM Hassy viewfinder works best when purchasing a slip-on 3d Printed 6x3 Pano mask.

2. The C12 Back does require transport decoupling (no body influence is desired). This entails milling away three Gear Teeth so the back is totally controlled by the camera operator.

3. If one owns or buys a 645 Hassy Back, then you can simply use the SWC with a 645 3D printed viewfinder Mask (you'll then get 16 images per roll).

4. With the mod'ed C12 Back, get the roll to number one (manually resetting the counter), fire your image, then by hand wind the back's Key ONE FULL TURN (360 degrees). Due to the changing circumference of the film roll as it progresses (after numeric 7 on the back's counter), one can then revert for the rest of the roll, to only a 3/4 turn of the transport Key (270 degrees). With this you'll achieve AT LEAST 20 evenly spaced film images.

- - - - -

Finally, the wonderful OEM Hasselblad #41151 Mask kit (pretty pricey), doesn't always fit the SWC models.

Because of this, custom made 3D Masks work best (Old SWC vs. Newer SWC units also have slightly different dimensions).

Wow "c_watson1" (if that is your name), what is your problem with "dead" threads?

You constantly beat that point to death ! - If something applies to the original posting,

what's wrong with supplements to the discussions ? - i.e. Wikipedia😵

- - - - - 

Besides, with participation in this venue DOWN to record levels, you really 'otta' appreciate any participation (Geesh).

Finally, I'll 'troll' your constant "NO DEAD THREADS" mantra, with the suggestion : ANYBODY who doesn't have "Images" uploaded in

their profile/portfolio, should not be allowed to comment on "Dead Threads"...😎

"back in the late 80s when Nikon did not have a replacement shutter" OP

Huh ? - I was ordering Nikon shutter blades for FM2 & FE2 models for at least two decades after their production runs ended.

In fact today, I order 'like new' blades from Ebay. There are sellers who have been harvesting blades for years (less than $90 for the set).

- - - - - 

Now, some may say that the OP is speaking about the FE2 needing a whole new shutter - Well, I've never encountered a 'bricked' shutter block unit unless the camera experienced some kind of major trauma (impact, liquid etc). So blade replacements made for about 95% of the FE2 repairs (these are VERY hearty cameras).

FYI, the early 'Honeycomb' titanium blades were so thin & light (as a result they were great performers) that when the owner blasted air into the film chamber or finger obstructed/touched the blades during loading, they 'went-off-track' ! - After-which they'd try to cock the shutter, then irreversible blades damage occurred.

Going to the more rigid smooth aluminum material limited these customer related issues.

- - - - - 

Finally, of all the models I own (*and I own all of them), the FE2 is my favorite of the electronic Nikon film bodies... 

* Provided image shows units that didn't make it into showcases after a spring cleaning.

"said it's "shutter bounce." 

Okay, he either doesn't wish to explain it to you, OR he doesn't know that shutter bounce causes A BRIGHT LINE of re-exposure.

"you are referring to the same problem"

Not really. - It's definitely *Brake related, BUT, it's the opposite of "bounce"...

* "the 1st curtain [is] hitting a DRY or overly tightened brake"

"newly refurbished canon ftb - What's the solution?"

This is a classic 'Brake' issue. When one sees a defined line such as yours, it's the 1st curtain hitting a DRY or overly tightened brake (the 2nd curtain pushes its way against the prematurely halted 1st curtain).

This is a REDO for the servicing tech. He needs to first lubricate, then if the issue isn't remedied, then the brake has to be adjusted; this of course assumes that the shutter specs for tension & lubrication are met...

Foam has been and is being used in many camera bodies. As cameras age, many 'Techs' ignore internal foam that is obviously past its prime.

Yes, disturbing it is messy and makes for much longer bench times in dealing with it. But we need to remember that this stuff & its adhesive eventually turns ACIDIC !

Of course this material is there to provide necessary light trapping, cushioning & dust mitigation, so a maintenance (C L A) should always include replacing this material (a necessary evil)...

The provided images show what can occur with the Aluminizing of a camera's prism (black lines and/or bars visible in your viewing) and the contamination of sensitive electronic parts (corrosion etc.)... 

The prism isn't economically feasible to restore - A replacement of this Leica R3 prism was required.

Hans_500CM, do you see the 'carve-out' in the tube that holds the rear group? (The lower part of the tube wall).

That exists for the mirror rise & fall clearance. Your 'shop' obviously doesn't know that this special clearance needs to be positioned properly.

One of their 'guys' just tightened the replacement rear group without knowing (and checking) that if it didn't tighten it to the correct position, it will require either a thickness shim or the application of Loctite to the threads (then set the position).

Finally, let me add, that whoever this supposed 'tech' is, they really should consider a simple step to their service, by adding some flat black paint touch-up to the marred surfaces caused by someone's careless use of tools...

"I noticed the lens was coming out slightly slower than what it used to"

Well, the quick video you supplied shows what I would call a normal function.

But, it also shows that it's likely a high-mileage sample that you own (many abrasions on your Titanium finish).

I highly recommend that you follow these suggestions for extending its life - - -

1. Stop shutting off the camera !

2. Allow the camera to go to sleep on its own.

3. When you wish to use it, simply tap the release button to 'Wake-Up' the camera.

4. Avoid the camera's 'Tucking In" lens action - i.e. To make the body smaller (Limit this to film & battery changes etc.).

All this to limit the mileage on the lens connection flex ribbon (FPC) that eventually experiences the 'Paper Clip' effect (bend it enough times & it breaks).

Remember, these complex little cameras were considered 'Light Duty' when they were new (Long life was never part of their design)...

Hadn't used this particular Hasselblad body & lens for at least 2 years. Knowing that I wasn't going to use this combo, I stored the body & a black 50mm Distagon lens into an airtight bag along with a 'Desiccant packet' (North Carolina is a four season environment that is subject to humidity). Retrieving it to once again put it back into the rotation, I was horrified to see that a desiccant packet negatively reacted with the metal that it came in close contact with (see the provided images; paint fade, rust, corrosion and the removal of the black anodize treatment). 

Maybe someone out there understands technically why this corrosion occurred.

My guess is that the 'silica gel' material did indeed absorb moisture, but this moisture became concentrated into the desiccant material (it didn't leave the airtight ZipLock bag) and being so close to metal, corrosion was the result - - -

So a lesson learned and a BIG warning to anybody who employs this same naïve technique :

So, don't allow desiccant materials to make ANY contact with your valuable equipment !

As proof that fine mechanical cameras can in fact be brought back to factory era specifications, 

here's the end result - - - And yes, that's a factory Wax "L" seal...

Not perfect, but it will now again provide the owner with years of rangefinder "Wow" factor and accurate shutter speeds etc...

Remember this (refused by factory service) Leica M3 ?

Over 60 years of past questionable 'other techs' working on it, then only to have the poor thing dunked in liquid :

National Healthcare Safety Network (NHSN) If that is your name ?

"you are unhappy to work on those cameras" -  "will work on them with a more enthusiasm"  NHSN

Huh? Who mentioned anything about my feelings or preferences ?

I instead addressed with MUCH more proof than you, a debunking of your WILD claims : "failure rate of the mechanical cameras appears to be higher than the electronic cameras" & "A electronic SLR is not less reliable than mechanical" -

Okay I got it, so now let's have some fun; you'd rather take a Mamiya 6 over a Hasselblad 500C/M ? or a

Minolta XD over a Nikon F2 ? - i.e. See the mirrorbox pictures (1, 2 & 3) of the Nikon F2 vs. the Minolta XD11/Leica R4

"Claiming a Leica M is reliable is somewhat of a stretch" -

Claiming ? Funny how there are hundreds of shutter block assemblies for modern SLR's offered on Ebay, but

NO shutter kits or assemblies for Leica M models...

"Over the past 22 years I have owned 11 M cameras and every single one has needed at least one trip to the shop" -

Yeah sure. Even if I believe you, when you occasionally service a Rolex, it will no doubt last a lifetime… 

 "currently own, many more Nikon cameras since the early 80's and only a fraction of those have needed service" -

Well then, you don't own many electronic SLR Nikon's (I do, manual & Electronic - Last picture is 'the stuff' that doesn't fit in my showcases). 

Oh yeah, let's not forget the 'great & reliable' modern AF electronic lenses (see picture).

"worried about total cost of ownership I would never buy a Leica" -

Yeah whatever, I say buy Gold, but for you Crypto is the future…

Finally. unlike the rather opaque NHSN, readers either know who I am or can easily look me up.

They can certainly make the judgement on who is more credible in this 'proof filled' discussion…

"There are few cameras more reliable than the F3. - A electronic SLR is not less reliable than mechanical one* - Besides in many cases an electronic camera can also be repaired - The failure rate of the mechanical cameras appears to be higher than the electronic cameras" NHSN

Wait, WHAT ? - Sorry, but in the 'eyes' of this Technician, these comments are patently absurd...👀

- - - - -  Okay

Picture #1 - I can economically fix this Water ravaged Leica M3 (over six decade old, mechanical camera).

Picture #2 - It isn't economical to replace the corroded (buried by electronics; follow the Red Wire) battery chamber on 'Your reliable' Nikon F3.

Not to mention the only parts remedy is to scavenge off of another labor intensive tear-down donor...

Picture #3 - Look at all the delicate complexity of this Leica R8; these are now close to being uneconomical to repair.

Picture #4 - Here's a Nikon F6 which required service even after very little use !

Quote

"many of the newer (maybe younger) film crowds are attracted to other platforms" - Bruce

That's an understatement ! - In fact, even with *mediocre at best, error filled, needless repetition and very low production value YouTube camera reviews,

these 'Analog' content-creator film fans, are exploding in popularity with the youth ! (Dozens to hundreds to thousands of responses/subscribers ! ).

And yes as a technician, I typically contribute by gently correcting something technical that I feel may be important to point-out / correct.  

* Still, I always give their effort & enthusiasm a big thumbs UP

Plus, this YouTube venue rewards the effort, time & popularity of the above average quality content-creators, with among other things,

monetary compensation 👀

So film shooting, despite the escalating prices, is currently experiencing a true renaissance. 

Check out the film sales sites, regularly & quickly, the 'stuff' goes Out-Of-Stock !

I'm chiming in on this, because I feel strongly about folks who are trying their best to be honest & reasonable as they share a rather high percentage of their profits with PayPal & Ebay. At the same time, these sellers are surrendering much of their control over their valuable property... 

- - - - -

"he has rated this listing as "Decent" almost at the bottom of his rating scale! - This is ebay; where everything is at least EXC+++++" - You mean he didn't ridiculous list it as 'Near MINT/Top MINT' ? - "Decent"? - Wow, then this makes this Japan based seller, one of the HONEST ones ! 

Now, I'm no fan of non-magnify-able images in a seller's ad, but the less he puts into the ad, the BETTER it is for the buyer to claim lack of transparency

i.e. ("he didn't show that dent" or "He didn't mention that the meter didn't work" etc.).

- - - - -

"seller has two IDs, the other one is "mojax"." - That's just his "Store's" name, nothing nefarious here. - I looked, he actually has nice high-end 'Stuff' with prices that are appropriate.

- - - - -

"you'll be left by yourself if that camera is defective. It's risky" - Not true. If the seller gave a 'bad' description & in doing so mislead me, I just return it ! - Ebay has EXTREME Buyer protection compared to the onerous requirements for Sellers. Even buying a 'Pet Rock', you receive up to 45 days of a FULL Refund; this heavily weighted policy assures the buyer's protection (It also includes your shipping costs !).

If it's a good price on the item you desire, buy it. - Believe me, Sellers are very nervous for those 45 days when they ship away their high dollar items...

It's always so sad when a true icon of the Leica community passes. He truly was the 'Gold Standard' in the Leica testing world.

My condolences to the family and for those left behind...

Good bye my friend...

I don't understand why Yashica chose to use different lens mount then the C/Y mount Martin Tai (OP)

What? I already answered this in quite some detail Martin !

Did you as "Moderator" really *remove my thoughtful corrections, detailed & time-consuming explanations?

If so, I'm appalled by this blatant censorship...

I'm one of the few camera/lens technicians who spend the time to answer questions & participate in this Pnet community. If I spend my valuable bench time to thoughtfully answer/correct something in these forums, then you can only imagine how upset I am by expunging such content. My participation was purly to warn folks not aware, that there was to be serious error left in the Pnet archives.

If not addressed, I may just leave this community & review it accordingly in my upcoming YouTube channel...

* Many other Pnet members also posted thoughtful replies in this thread that are now gone (Pictures & text etc).

Gus, is the vignetting added, or is it native & is it worth buying an M9 now? Arthur Mc.

"Holga" style is when one tries to mimic the imaging flaws of those 'plastic' cameras; so yes the venetting is induced by the

Google Picasa named "Holga-ish" action. BTW, I used my M8 for that shot (the colors weren't very good so B+W worked better).

I do agree with my friend Bill Blackwell on the choice of the M240, but only for the larger battery, updated electronics, Live View & better LCD display. - The different sensor, video option & added bulk are not as desirable.

Keep in mind, most cared for M9 units have usually had their CCD sensors replaced (a saved invoice can serve as proof of the update).

All that stated, I like the output of the unique CCD sensor and as a result won't be selling my M9...

Proof that CCD gives CMOS a run for its money; see the highly cropped images below:

LTM Canon 35mm f/2 shot at f/2.8 mounted to a Leica M8 - ISO 160 @ 1/30th of a sec

Converted to B+W with "Holga-ish" action - Post processed using the discontinued Picasa...