Gus Lazzari

I have alkaline batteries in both" Glen H.

Very bad. These "alkaline" batteries among other things, LEAK too easily !

Please only use the Silver Oxide formula batteries. This was the only battery out when the camera was originally designed.

 

Besides, even with the potential ability to acquire a parts salvage unit (especially with the 'Mirrorbox' battery chamber of the EL2), rolling the dice with a probable time waster on a no-more-parts available camera, is foolhardy...

8-Element Leitz Summicron 35mm f/2 shot at f5.6 mounted to a Leica M9

Post processed via Picasa - Click on the image to see the detail of the people (i.e. Mother & child at right edge).

 

 

8 Element Summicron 35mm f/2 shot at f5.6 mounted to a Leica M9 from car window.

Cropped 45% & then post processed via Picasa...

 

 

Thank you gentlemen.

Here's a very comprehensive write-up/review of this stunning lens:

 

"the immortal LEICA SUMMICRON 35mm f/2, made by Ernst Leitz of Wetzlar, Germany,

is among the finest 35mm lenses ever made. It is tiny, ultra-sharp, ultra-fast, and has no distortion"

8 Element <<< click - I have the non-goggled unit, which can fit on a Screw-mount or M-mount camera.

 

8 Element Leitz Summicron 35mm f/2 shot at f/4 mounted to a Leica M9 - ISO 800, Post processed via the discontinued Picasa...

 

 

Yes Christopher they do "climb it" !

Check out the 'stairs' at the right side of the dome; simply click on the image and see the magnified picture.

 

The made in 1958 EIGHT element Leitz lens at its optimal f/5.6 aperture, is such an amazing lens. Even with me cropping the image zoomed in to 55%, the resolution held up (My tests show it just as sharp as the modern Leica ASPH equivalent).

Plus, couple it to the wonderful CCD sensor of the M9, and it looks like film grain !

8 Element Summicron 35mm f/2 shot at f5.6 mounted to a Leica M9

Cropped 55% & then post processed via Picasa...

 

 

accidental trigger possible" OP

No joke, you should not be locking your shutter release just to save a frame of film.

On these horizontal traveling designs, the shutter shouldn't be left charged more than 1/2 a day.

Better to instead either fire off the shutter when you put it away, or, better yet...

Get into the HABIT, of only winding the camera just prior to firing off an exposure...

what would that entail"? OP

In a low mileage unit such as you describe, the typical issue is contamination on contact landings & switches.

This contamination is caused by age related out-gas fuming from the internally used foam, lubricantes & rubber in their end of life failure.

Remedy? - Solvent wash all contact switches etc. and re-lubricate with an electrolube substance...

I think that might be shutter bounce" Glenn S.

If it were "shutter bounce", the re-exposure would cause a bright line.

 

Being a dark line means that the slit-width has collapsed at the end of its travel.

This typically indicates either a poorly adjusted shutter and/or lubrication failure...

These lenses cant be fixed to new condition anymore, just cleaned partially which removes the coating" Joel M.

This simply isn't true.

This "Schneideritis" symptom is simply the black element edge paint developing 'tiny' cracks (They look like bubbles).

Remove the group, strip away the old 'defective' paint, spin the lens group while reapplying new black paint.

 

"removes the coating" ? - This isn't a soft-coating 1950's era lens; sounds like an amateur hack conducting the cleaning...

Thanks for any tips." Joe Hodge

Okay here it comes:

 

Four stops off indicates one of the two photocells have died. Remove & replace.

 

If the meter needle jumps around, then with the lens mount looking at you:

1. Lock up the mirror
   
2. Heat up & remove lens mount screw at 10 O'clock position
   
3. Introduce a syringe of light solvent (Lighter Fluid) 5mm into the access hole
   
4. Don't shoot-in, but allow a dribble of solvent to wash the aperture/shutter brushes and contacts
   
5. Briskly move the aperture index prong (Easier than racking the speeds) back & forth
   
6. Using same syringe, carefully introduce "DeoxIT FaderLube" (Carbon resistor electrolube formula)
   
7. Reassemble and enjoy accurate smooth metering
   

A qualified Leica service technician such as Sherry Krauter" 02Pete

Why would anyone send a Contax G2 to 'Sherry'?

 

Now for the repair issue:

The image flaw is both 'blurry' and 'over-exposed' - Add to that an electronic shutter which is VERTICAL in design & of course

produces HIGH speeds with a 'slit-width'.

 

If it isn't a processing induced problem, then confidence is high that the motorized film transport (Which is quick in these Contax G & G2 units), has been sporadically & electronically initiated mid-exposure (The film is moving during the exposure)...

the camera and outside of the lens body has suffered from light rust and corrosion - Unfortunately the IIIc will need a thorough CLR before any use" Katie P.

The reality? Good luck taking it apart without damaging the frozen parts. This is either a lerner DIY project, or a parts-salvage at best. This type of comprehensive corrosion indicates a fully 'Water Damaged' camera (Likely submerged). Once the covers have been removed, it will be very apparent that the precision internal moving parts have been continually corroding.

 

Very few if any technicians would accept this unit into their shop. One simply cannot economically give it everything it needs in order to provide trouble free use, little alone offer up a warranty. This is catastrophic damage...

 

My guess is the Leica owner who dropped the combo in the water (Knew it was a valuable camera), tried to get it serviced, but was faced with multiple service refusals... Still, $10 is a bargain for both-either-or just one piece like the lens; it sounds totally usable !

 

90mm Tele-Elmarit f/2.8 mounted to a Leica M9 - Post processed; converted to B&W, cropped about 20%, added vignetting & Picasa's "Orton-ish".

Anybody know what kind of Owl this is?

 

 

Shot with Leica Tele-Elmar-M 135mm f/4 @ f/5.6 on a Sony NEX-7 set to ASA800, cropped to 70% then added some vignetting...

 

A cassette that has had the film torn out of it will easily rotate in the direction of the rewinding motion and jam the door" Andy F.

On more than one occasion folks have brought in a 'jammed-up' camera with similar symptoms experienced by this OP.

 

Upon inspection, what actually occurred inside the film chamber was that the film cassette was not feeding out in the direction towards the take-up spool. The film door was instead closed as the film cassette feed was pointed up. This of course allows for any film coming out of the cassette to be 'PINCHED' by the film door cassette stabilizer (A similar symptom to a rewind shaft being too stiff).

 

Many issues can arise from this serious film loading error:

Hard advance and/or binding - Hard rewinding - Torn sprocket holes - Abrasions on film - Hard to open/jammed door.

Keep in mind that the rewind knob can still fool you (it will still turn as you advance). The difference is that the feel of the other operations will be LABORED. So the warning given by others is more important than any, "Don't force anything" when using your camera/lenses...

safest bet is the lenses with a Series 7 filter" Wouter W.

Just a quick correction:

The 1st & 2nd Version of the 1, 2 & 3 cam 50mm Summicron-R lens, has in fact a Series VI filter size.

This version is the lens that has the reversible metal OEM hood.

 

The 3rd version was a screw-in E55 filter with a built-in/slide-out hood.

the headaches associated with trying to match"

This is no joke.

Unless you substantially & consistently stop-down your aperture, plus use only wide angle lenses, you'll be wasting a lot of film chasing the focus plane...

 

These variables (build errors and focus shift), need to be monitored through the lens in 'Real-Time' and at the taking aperture. Mirrorless cameras don't use a simulated RF view/focus or a mirror & screen as the lens is viewed wide-open. Instead via their electronic viewfinders, they easily & flawlessly handle the darker taking aperture, & do so in Real-Time.

Why waste several hundred dollars for the headaches associated with trying to match adapter build errors and focus shift issues?

IMHO you're better off buying the 'cheap' $65 Russian adapter that goes -Contax RF lens to Sony NEX- adapter.

 

This way you can buy a 'cheap' NEX-7, or for a bit more (And even better), a Full-Frame Image-stabilized sensor Sony A7II.

Both will provide much better image quality than a Leica IIIa, along with surprisingly 'Quick & Accurate' focusing.

This is performed even with build errors and/or focus shift at any aperture with ANY lens !

 

 

I wish the 'cheap' Russian set-up was available when I assembled this *expensive Contax RF to M Leica to Sony NEX kit.

*Over $400 spent on the two adapters - A pre-owned NEX-7 can easily be acquired for that...

This is why I tell my wife:

"Don't worry about me accumulating so many old cameras (G.A.S.), when the RE35 digital roll finally comes out,

it will SKYROCKET the value of these forgotten film cameras, and as a result, be better than a retirement account" ;) :rolleyes:

Unlike a IIIf which requires just a turn so it stays connected to the whole knob (Too far out and the knob just freewheels),

a IIIc doesn't care; you can pull the long set-screw completely out, it won't matter.

 

Now heat is heat, but I use a more focused mini-torch.

If you heat up the surrounding camera past 150 degrees, you could cause RF issues etc.

it does have a few quirks" Rick D.

This just isn't correct. Like saying my 2001 car has a "quirk" with it, its 'Oil' light is always glowing.

Well maybe this 2001 Contax T3 needs to get serviced...

 

These complex and packed little cameras have lubricant, adhesive tapes and foam. They all age and as a result 'out-gas'.

These fumes contaminate micro switching contact surfaces etc. causing contact 'chatter'...

 

Full view to get to these switches.

 

Separate the PCB from the plastic anchor points, solvent wash all contacts & then apply DeOxit 'Gold" electro-lube...

It's all about technique - Heat it up, then 'snap' it counter-clockwise...

From a prior request for lubricants I use: "Full Synthetic Mobil 1 10W-30 (Oil), Synthetic Grease SuperLube PTFE (Grease)"

Lube for cameras & lenses <<< click