Jump to content

jlemire

Members
  • Posts

    450
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by jlemire

  1. I exposed 2 rolls of film - one for each camera. ~13 shots per lighting condition - the subject at the metered suggestion, plus up to 3 stops over and under in 1/2-stop increments. I recorded the exposure for the metered grey card, but did not actually make an exposure of the grey card. This grey card exposure was covered somewhere in the range of the subject exposures. It was just as easy to use manual as aperture-priority (no aperture-priority anyways on the P3).

     

    Originally I was only concerned with seeing how Provia 100F looked at various exposures under different light. I only intended to shoot a roll with the ZX-30. But since this test was spurred by a trip I will be making to the Galapagos and since the P3 will come along as my back-up, it was suggested in a different thread that I test both cameras. So, once I saw the differences in meter, in addition to a film test, it became a meter test and a camera comparison.

     

    I think I was systematic and consistent, though I certainly did not maintain the "exact" camera position. I think I was very good - made sure to just fill the view finder with the subject and center it. Anyways, I am now just waiting to get the slides developed, which should hopefully sort some things out for me.

     

    (BTW, something I realized when running this test is that I really like the viewfinder on the P3. I don't use it very much anymore since the ZX-30 has more features (more shutter speeds, aperature-priority, shutter-priority, autofocus, etc.), so I had forgotten what a great camera the P3 is.)

  2. Douglas - I believe there are some differences (well, at least one that I know of). If I recall correctly, the P30 does not have a port (?) for a shutter release cable. The P3 does.

     

    I emailed Pentax about this question (about the shutter speed) - not sure what the chances are they will reply, but I figured it was worth a shot.

  3. OK, so it is not uncanny that the results are such as they are. I exposed the slide film at both the metered grey card exposure and the metered subject exposure (as well as exposures in 1/2 stop increments to +3 and -3 from the subject's metered exposure). The truth, I guess, is in the pudding.

     

    It does still seem odd to me though that the difference would be so great given that the subject was made up of dyed cotton yarn - nothing particularly reflective, but, then again, maybe enough so to make this difference.

     

    Thanks to all and to any further comments on this. For those interested in the results, I will post them once I get the slides back and have examined them.

  4. But should a meter be consistent when measuring the grey card and the same scene under different light? The difference between the grey card and the scene with the P3 is 1/2 stop under bright sun, 1 stop in the shade, and 2 stops under afternoon sun. Same grey card, same scene, same meter, different light. Should this happen?
  5. I was just testing a new-to-me film (Provia 100F) in two of my Pentax

    camera bodies (ZX-30 and P3). I ran the test as such:

    <ul>

    <li>Same lens (Sigma 105mm macro)

    <li>subject = red fleece jacket, a multicolored (blues, greens, and

    purples) scarf, and a white scarf - set-up like a tri-color flag - red

    on the left, multi in the middle, white on the right

    <li>under three different natural light conditions- 1)midday sun,

    2)midday shade, and 3)afternoon sun

    <li>manual mode

    </ul>

    <br>

    Here's what is bothing me. First I metered a Kodak grey card and

    recorded the exposure for middle tone. Then I let the camera meter

    the "tri-color" scene and recorded the exposure for middle tone. I

    expected the two results to be different and even expected different

    results from the two cameras. BUT, I expected the differences to be

    consitent across the three lighting conditions. They weren't.<br>

    <br>

    Here's my data:

    <center>

    <table border=2>

    <tr>

    <td>

    </td>

    <td>

    </td>

    <td>

    ZX-30

    </td>

    <td>

    P3

    </td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td rowspan=2>

    Mid-Day Sun

    </td>

    <td>

    Grey Card

    </td>

    <td>f/8, 1/350</td>

    <td>f/8, 1/350</td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td>Subject</td>

    <td>f/8, 1/180</td>

    <td>f/8, 1/500</td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td rowspan=2>

    Mid-Day Shade

    </td>

    <td>

    Grey Card

    </td>

    <td>f/8, 1/30</td>

    <td>f/8, 1/15</td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td>Subject</td>

    <td>f/8, 1/45</td>

    <td>f/8, 1/30</td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td rowspan=2>

    Afternoon Sun

    </td>

    <td>

    Grey Card

    </td>

    <td>f/8, 1/60</td>

    <td>f/8, 1/30</td>

    </tr>

    <tr>

    <td>Subject</td>

    <td>f/8, 1/90</td>

    <td>f/8, 1/125</td>

    </tr>

    </table>

    </center>

    <br>

    The ZX-30 uses "TTL 6-segment metering". The P3 uses "open aperture,

    TTL center-weighted, average metering". I can't really make sense of

    these data. I am going to remeter the grey card and the subject again

    today at midday, especially with the ZX-30, but until then:<br>

    <br>

    <b>Can anyone help?</b>

  6. If you are just talking about taking files on your computer and uploading them to the website then it should be quite simple. Some (most?) hosts will have a "user panel" or "administrative page" - basically part of the site where you log on and have access to some website controls - like uploading files. It is usually something simple like photo.net uses to allow you to upload photos to your gallery - a "browse" button which allows you to pick the file on you computer to upload - most hosts allow you to upload multiple at a time. You should contact your host about the specifics.<br>

    <br>

    The other option - if your host allows it - is to use an FTP program (FTP = file transfer protocol) which essentially creates a link between your computer and your host server. Some are fairly easy to use - you can drag entire folders onto your site. I use <a href="www.smartftp.com">SmartFTP</a>, a shareware program.<br>

    <br>

    If this is all too confusing your hosting company should be able to help you through it all. If you are interested I offer webspace through my site (<a href="www.zinzio.com">Zinzio Media</a>)and could help you through the set-up and transfer process. I may also be able to help with more specifics if you want to email me (you can find my address through photo.net or through my website). GOod Luck.

  7. I'm headed to the Galapagos in a few months and do not want to lug my

    "everyday" tripod (Bogen/Manfrotto 3221 with Bogen/Manfrotto ball head

    3055) along with me. At first I was thinking of not bringing anything

    and then I thought about bringing a monopod, but now I think I want a

    small tripod - something I can use to do some macro work (because I

    know I will want to do macro).<br>

    <br>

    So, I am considering the <a

    href="http://www.adorama.com/SLCB.html">Slik Compact XL Tripod with

    Pan Head</a>. It seems small enough to easily travel with and is

    definitely inexpensive.<br>

    <br>

    Does anyone have experience with this tripod? DO you like it? Any

    problems with it? Any other suggestions for an inexpensive, small

    travel tripod?<br>

    <br>

    My primary camera will be a Pentax ZX-30. My macro lens is a Sigma

    105mm (which is currently my longest lens, though I may invest in a

    Sigma 70-300mm zoom).<br>

    <br>

    Thanks.

  8. I don't have an answer to this, but an addendum to the question, especially given the first response.

     

    Given the original question and the response that this workflow is "good enough", I am assuming that there is a slide film out there that yields better quality prints (given the above set-up/market). Is this true? If so, what is it? And if it is true, the "good enough" argument doesn't make sense to me - why spend more money on a lower quality end product?

  9. not exactly the inspiring reviews I had hoped for, but I guess that is to be expected given the prices. I have a couple of sigma primes (24mm and 105mm macro) and really like them and had hoped that this Sigma lens would be equally attractive.
  10. A few questions regarding this lens:<br>

    <br>

    1a) Do you use it?<br>

    1b) If so, what do you think of it?<br>

    <br>

    2) Adorama carries 3 "flavors" of this lens, 1 for $139, 1 for $219,

    and one for $219.95:<br>

    a) <a href="http://www.adorama.com/SG70300DGPXA.html">Sigma 70-300mm

    F4-5.6 DG Macro Tele Zoom Lens for Pentax AF Cameras</a> ($139)<br>

    b) <a href="http://www.adorama.com/SG70300SPXAF.html">Sigma 70-300mm

    f4-5.6 APO Macro Super II Tele Zoom Lens with Hood for Pentax AF

    Cameras</a> ($219)<br>

    c) <a href="http://www.adorama.com/SG70300DAPX.html">Sigma 70-300mm

    f4-5.6 APO DG Macro Tele Zoom Lens with Hood for Pentax AF Cameras</a>

    ($219.95)<br>

    <br>

    What are the (practical) differences among these?<br>

    <br>

    Thanks for any and all help!

  11. Just wondering if anyone has had either good or bad experiences with

    buying film from ebay.

     

    I'm looking at some 35mm slide film that expires September 2005. They

    claim it had been in cold storage when they got it and that it is now

    being stored in a "cool dry place".

     

    Any recommendations one way or the other about film from ebay?

×
×
  • Create New...