john_mullaney

Ok, my intention here isn't to start a heated personal political debate. My intention also isn't to play "devil's advocate." I just believe that the concepts of "rights" and "freedom of speech" are being tossed around a little loosely in this thread.

 

I don't believe the concept of photography is listed anywhere in the Declaration of Independance, Constitution, or the Bill of Rights.

 

Several countries throughout the world have recently started to define and re-define "image ownership." Do you, as a private citizen, own the rights to your image? Depends on the country you live in. A photographer above claimed that preventing him from taking pictures of whatever he wanted was a violation of his freedom of speach. What if I took a picture of him and used it in a VD or child molestation commercial? I am sure he would want my freedom of speech regulated somewhat then.

 

No one has the right to do whatever they want in any civilized country. Unfortunately there are laws, rules, and regulations because we as human beings have free will. Unfortunately, some use that free will with evil intentions. If you want to live in a civil society you must be prepared to abide by some laws.

 

If that means a background check to rent time in a flight simulator, a photo id to buy bulk fertilizer, or not photographing federal buildings or mass transit facilities without a permit, is that such a bad thing?

 

Again, all of the previous posts are probably right. But just take a minute and try to understad the intent of the laws and are you really that inconvenienced. As for taking pictures of someone's house, I too would be curious if I saw someone with a camera taking pictures at the back of my house while my daughter was in shower. If you aren't, then there's a lot of "freedom of speech" and "art" you haven't seen on the internet. Or, maybe you're that stalker that the neighborhood has been worried about. How do you know unless you ask...

Your camera is not broken. Its the built in sensor that flips the image when reveiwing a picture taken from the vertical. I think there is even mention of this on the first few pages of the manual...

Carolyn,

 

You should look into joining a community darkroom in your area. Even though you have your own darkroom, the knowledge you will pick up at the community darkroom is priceless. Even if you go to proces a few rolls a week or month and then process your bulk in your home. Besides, its always more fun to process/print with company to talk to!

 

If you live anywhere near Philadelphia, Project Basho is a great option!

 

Good luck and hope to see some images!

 

-john

Great photos! I hope to see them for SS!

 

Can I add one suggestion? I would take the film completly off the paper, and spool, then fold the tape that left, over the edge of the end of the film, and put that side on first. This gives a nice strong edge that won't buckle then loading onto the roll.

 

All credit to Tsuyoshi and Project Basho for this tip.

"...[silver...werewolves]..." "...[stay out of droves]..." - A photographer's sense of humor really is just one step above that of an accountant, isn't it... :)

 

Its amazing how "stop bath: acid vs. water" and "photo-flo" are two of the most common recurring themes... Maybe because it is just to simple to believe... ;)

12 minutes at 20/68 degrees? Are you sure that isn't for N+1 development? That is a very long time. I was going to test a roll at 9 minutes and go from there. Again, this is 120 medium format 320TXP (is it still considered new emulsion?) in a small hand held tank, Patterson clone.

Paul,

 

I did search but didn't find many hits that appeared relevant. I will go back and search for your post.

 

Thanks!

 

-john

I am trying to determine the development time for Tri-X 320TXP 120

roll film in HC-110. The product sheet for the film and the

developer both say 4.75 minutes at Dil. B 68 degrees. But the

Massive Dev chart has two entries, one for 4.75 and one at 5.5. The

5.5 has the following foot note: "Development data is taken from a

previous version of this film. Starting point time remains the same."

 

Any idea what that footnote means?

 

I would also like to keep the dev. time above 5 minutes so I will

more than likely use the 5.25 minutes at 65 degrees vs the unoffical

double dilution B/double time. Anyone see any issues with this?

 

Finally, the product sheet for the film says to place the reel into

the developer when using small tanks. This is instead of pouring

the working solution into the tank? Is this common for kodak 120

film?

 

Thanks in advance! These forums are amazing.

 

-john

I read about this in the NY Times. Apparently Hillary Clinton was blaming George Bush and the Republican controlled house.

Well, after using a community darkroom with great success I've

decided to make a darkroom in part of my garage. Aside from

purchasing an OK enlarger and some processing tanks I've been

collecting some used equipment, graduates, trays, funnels, etc that I

would like to use.

 

Most appear to be fairly old. OK, really old. Older than me old.

Most are very dirty. What is the best way to safely (my personal

safety) clean them without knowing exactly what they have been used

for? Nothing is glass, its mostly plastic with some hard rubber

trays. When aquiring I always asked if any toneing or alternative

processing was done. The answer was always no, but I can not be 100%

sure obviously.

 

I also don't want to be penny wise and pound folish. Is it worth it

trying to clean it up or will I untimately risk contaminating my

developing process? The community darkroom had specific items

clearly labeled for developer/stop/fix from graduates down to tongs.

Is it possible to completely remove all of the chemical residue?

 

Will dish detergent and plenty of warm water with good rinsing be

enough?

 

Thanks and if anyone has any equipment they want to get rid of in the

philly area... :)

 

-john

Lex,

 

A beginner's question. I am shooting HP5 at an EI of 250. I am overriding the camera's default speed of 400 and exposing at 250. Should I then process the film normally based on the development time for 400? I would imagine if I develop for 250 that I am then "double compensating."

 

If I were to push this film, would I change the setting of the camera back to 400 first? Or should I still expose for the true speed of the film (or my beginners habit of underexposing?)

 

Thanks,

 

-john

Could it be over or aggressive agitation? I think if it were, you would see similar streaks on both sides though. Some sort of light leak in the processing or film canisters?

Well, after trying three "lossless JPEG" cropping tools... no such luck... with just a rotate and not even a resize, the images don't load onto the frame... very odd... Wish I could get this to work...

From the "Be nice to your JPEGS article"

http://www.photofocus.com/showarchive.php?aid=128&cid=3

 

 

Certain specialized editing programs can take advantage ofthis block structure to perform tricks with JPEG images. Theydo so without expanding and recompressing them. Rotations of90 or 180 degrees in either direction can be done relativelyeasily. It is also possible to crop an image (so long as it isdone on block boundaries) beginning in the upper left hand corner.Remember that in most programs, including

PhotoShop, you can't do this. Windows XP now has a graphic viewer thatwill let you rotate images as well, but you should resist thetemptation. Ditto with Apple's iPhoto for Mac OS. As with PhotoShop, bothof these actually decompress the image, rotate it, then resavewith the accompanying loss of quality that comes with it. ACDSeeis the most popular program that actually offers lossless JPEGrotation. A free onlineservice that can do lossless JPEG rotation is available aswell, courtesy of Pegasus Imaging.

Wow... thanks for the lively replies! As for the support technician, he isn't an idiot, he is just working with what he has. The frame itself is great and fairly afforable considering some of the competing products. To answer the questions, yes, there is only 8 MB of internal but unlimited if you leave memory cards in the unit so I am not worried about that. I am not using it as permanent storage of all my photos, so would probably have a "transient album memory card" that I will use to show fresh pictures with.

 

As for the viewing software, it boggles my mind. I can display any picture, captured with my Canon Digital Rebel at any size (ironically haven't tried true RAW yet) or my cheap Sony Cybershot AT ANY SIZE. File size, pixels, resolution, etc does not matter. As long as I have not done any editing via external software like Paintshop. What extra information does JPEG editing software really add? Ideally, I just want to be able to crop my shots for optimal viewing at 4 by 6 and maybe some basic red-eye reduction. There is a difference between a JPEG captured on a simple digital camera and a JPEG cropped in Photoshop.

 

Thoughts?

I need to revert/convert an edited/compressed JPEG back to an

origianl "uncompressed JPEG".

 

I recently purchased the new Westinghouse Digital Frame. All in all

happy with it. Unfortunately, the jpeg viewer application within the

unit is bare bones. After spending only 15 seconds on the phone with

their tech support, they told me that only "uncompressed JPEGs" are

viewable on the unit.

 

In a nut shell, only pictures unedited directly from a digital camera

are able to be displayed. Any sort of cropping, editing, resizing,

etc makes the images unusable. So, unless you take a perfect picture

with your digital camera, you are forced to settle for less than

optimal pictures on a great displaying method...

 

Any ideas? I've tried PaintShop Pro but evena JPEG compression of 1

is still "compressed." Are they any free/cheap utilities to perform

this?

The issue of air quality/ventilation is currently the deciding factor for me in building my basement darkroom... Some of my concerns are: first off safety of fumes circulating throughout house, wife complaining house smelling of chemicals, and heated air being exhausted to the outside in winter (don't think this will be a trivial cost in the mid-atlantic states this winter, especially if you have natural gas forced air heat...)

 

So, ideally, an air purifier sounds like a great option... Has anyone ever used on in the darkroom? Do they really clean the air or just mask the fumes? Just because I don't smell it doesn't mean it can't hurt me...

 

Here's one I saw on BH...

 

Cachet Eco-Aire 8000 Air Purification System

http://tinyurl.com/dlfgg

Hey,

 

If this is Ben... I saw your "Celebrity Hobbies" episode... Great to see those vintage cameras! Was also impressed with your dodging and burning. But please, don't quit your "day job"...

 

-john