j.lewis.photo

I photograph primarily outdoors, and do do a great deal of walking around

when I shoot. I would only use a tripod for shutter speeds below 1/30, and I

usually don't even bring one unless I plan on using slower shutter speeds.

As for the comment about 6x7 not being much larger than 6x4.5, I'll definately

appreciate the difference. An 11x14 enlargement from my 645 isn't that much

larger than an 8x10, but I can certainly tell the difference in grain and

sharpness when i print in black and white, which I use more than color. i

would use this camera in the studio, but not that often. I may use it more for

studio work in the future.

I also like the Mamiya 7ll, but the inability to change backs, cropping

difficulties and hot-shoe viewfinders are huge turn-offs to me.

The weight of this camera is what scares me, and I will certainly use one

before buying, but it has so many advantages (rotating back, large negative,

nice lenses, bellows focusing, half-stop shutter increments, leaf-shutter, fine

focusing nob, etc.) that it seems worth the extra weight.

I'm an art student and I currently own a Mamiya 645 Pro TL. I'm

thinking about upgrading to a Mamiya RZ67 Pro 2 primarily for the

larger negative size. I also like the half-stop shutter speed

increments, the rotatings back, the bellows focusing system and the

leaf-shutters. I'll admint that buying my Mamiya 645 was kind of an

impulse decision based on a really good deal that was offered to

me. I had used the camera a number of times before, but hadn't

really researched other camera systems. So now before I upgrade to

another mamiya, I would like to hear some arguments. I don't mind

taking my time while shooting, and I work mainly outdoors. I know

my way around the studio, but don't use it that much. And I will

require a AE finder.

I only heard a couple things about hasselblads, mainly that they're

tough, simple and mechanical, and have incredible optics. So how

will Hassi optics compare to the RZ's lenses. How will the RZ

optics compare to my standard 80mm 2.8 lens on my 645? I generally

print in 11x14, but I'm always seeking finer grained prints with

better detail.

I'm not a fan of the 6x6 negative size, and I'm wondering if even if

the hassies have better optics, will the Mamiya's larger rectangular

negative provide a print of equal sharpness?

In summation, and please do correct me if I'm wrong, it seems like

the hasselblad camera is a small, solid basic camera, offering the

absolute best in medium format optics and sharpness, while the RZ

Pro 2 is a slightly larger and heavier camera, with a larger

negative and some more versatile and convenient features(bellows

focusing and half-stop shutter increments), while still offering

stellar sharpness just shy of the Hassie's.

Being an art student who loves fine grain and sharp detail, but

wants to experience many types of photography on a budget, I'm

definately leaning towards the RZ67.

Can someone please describe the differences between the various RB67

and RZ67 Mamiya camera models?

I recently shot a roll of Pan F ISO50 at ISO 100 by mistake. I am a stickler for grain, would I be better off just developing it at ISO 50 still?

For Pan F film shot at ISO50, what is the best development process? And what will I be loosing by using fine-grain developers in general? Will contrast or sharpness be decreased?

I read on an earlier post that a cd-rom audio plug can be used to

make a shutter-release cable for Mamiya 645 Pro cameras. I've

recently gotten ahold of one of these plugs to make my own cable and

as instructed connected pins 1 and 3 (1 being the top pin) to release

the shutter. I purchased a small push button that while pressed

connects two terminals, where I have connected wires coming from pins

1 and 3.

The only problem is that after the shutter fires the film does not

advance automatically. I have a grip winder for this camera that

usually advances the film after I take a picture.(its the smaller of

the two winders made for this camera)

Is there any way to make the cable communicate with the winder? When

I go to take a second photo, as soon as I press the button the film

advances and then it takes a photo. I can just press the button

again after every exposure to advance the film again, but it would be

nice if I didn't have to.

Also, what do pins 2 and 4 control? And if I mistakedly plugged my

cable in upside down, therefore connecting pins 2 and 4 when I

pressed the button, would I fry the circuit?

OK so I just learned a little more about extension tubes:

Less light reaching your film so more exposure required.

No infinity focusing.

So roughly how much light might I loose with a mamiya #3 extension tube? 1 stop? 2 stops?

I recently purchased a Mamiya Pro Tl w/ 80mm f/2.8 lens, AE

viewfinder and Grip. I've been looking at extension tubes and the

120mm macro lens and I can't decide which I should get. The

extension tubes are cheaper, and could be attached to any lens that

I bought for this camera, so basically I want to know what the catch

is. Is the image quality degraded with an extension tube? Is there

more distortion?