mikejanocko

<p>Hi,<br>

I would like to buy a Polaroid camera and I'm wondering if there are any stores in London that still sell these cameras - either new or used. Are there any Londoners here that can help?<br>

Thanks, michael</p>

Joe,I'm happy to see another Flexaret user - I almost thought I was the only one :). I own a Flexaret VII and I never had problems with this type of vignetting you mention. I really don't know what the problem could be.

One thing I have to warn you about is long exposures in a moist environment! A couple of weeks ago I was doing a 6-hour long exposure during the night and at the end of the exposure I noticed that the front element of the lens was moist. I just thought it would ruin my photograph but later I found out that shutter speeds of 1/8 and longer do not work properly anymore. The shutter mechanism probably got rusty or something during that night and it doesn't work as it should anymore. I'm really sad because it was the perfect camera for long exposures - you can leave it anywhere and not be afraid someone's gonna steal it :).

Anyway I wish you great fun with it!

 

Cheers, Mike<div></div>

I shoot often in the conditions you describe here - bright snow in combination with shaded rocks. My formula is to overexpose by 1 stop. I mostly shoot with a #25 red filter and so in addition I add 2 1/2 stop. I hate when the snow comes out gray - that's why I try to put in in about zone VII - white but still with some detail.

Good luck!<div></div>

The general rule for development is 15 percent equals one stop of exposure development.

Jedidiah, Fomapan 100 is my favorite film. I only use it in 120mm so I don't know how it compares to other films in 35mm format. I like it because the film is a bit thicker and is not as contrasty as Tmax or Plus-x 125. It needs a good pre-soak though - otherwise you will get a blue negative (doesn't actually matter anyway). I don't have any experience with the papers unfortunately.<div></div>

http://www.hevanet.com/cperez/test/fourcameras.html

 

this article compares hasselblad to 3 other cameras including Mamiya. It also shows the differences in images between these cameras so you should see some difference there.

thank you for the responces. the mechanism seems pretty easy now that you've explained it to me. I think I will get my lens checked just to be sure, although it's from '92 so it shouldn't be that bad.

Thanks for helping me out Marcus & Jeff! I checked the camera and everything seems to be perfectly allright, so I guess it was my fault after all.

Thanks again, mike

Today I shot my first roll with my "new" Hasselblad 500cm. Obviously,

something went wrong since almost every frame is overexposed. One

thing I noticed while shooting was that when I depressed the shutter

release, I heard the shutter open but I didn't hear it close again

until I relaxed the shutter release. So it felt like if I was shooting

at the "B" setting, although most of the exposures were around 1/500.

This happened also when I pre-released the camera so I'm sure it has

nothing to do with the sound of mirror flopping up.

The manual says the pressure should be maintained on the shutter

release until the leaf shutter has opened and closed fully - that's

why I held the shutter release depressed a bit longer then what I

usually do.

I don't know, is this the way the camera is supposed to sounds during

exposure? This is the first time I used a Hasselblad camera so I don't

know whether it's just me who is doing something wrong or whether

there's something wrong with the camera.

It's also possible that I simply screwed up when metering the scene -

I don't know. I used a Nikon N80 with matrix metering to meter the

scene and since I have used this kind of metering in combination with

manual cameras many times before, I wouldn't suspect anything to go

wrong. The scene wasn't very "tricky" either.

So what do you think, is it me or the camera?

 

The manual also talks about an auxiliary shutter and a leaf shutter.

Could someone explain me the difference between those two?

 

Thank you very much, Mike<div></div>

Andre, I don't know what country you reside in, but if it's somewhere in Europe it will be very hard to find someone who can process it (except Czech Republic, that is). It is best to process it yourself - most people who use this film do just that. Here is Foma's tech sheet for that film: http://www.foma.cz/Upload/foma/prilohy/F_pan_R_en.pdf

you can do it by inserting javascript into your page's code. here are a couple of ways to do it: http://www.javascriptkit.com/script/cutindex21.shtml

I think you've got a nice site!

The blue background is a little bit too wild for me, but I like the simplicity of the page and good navigation.

ok, i already developed it as the new Pro Tmax and got good results, so nevermind.

OH, and it says 100TMX in the yellow field.

Hello,

I'm about to develop a T-MAX 100 film but I'm not sure whether it's

the new Professional T-MAX or the old T-MAX Professional. I've lost

the packaging so i only gave the casette. I'm going to use D-76 and

because the times are different for the new and the old one i need to

know this. see picture below how it looks like. Thanks.<div></div>

Gorgeous!

Hi

I accidentally bought the Kodak D-76R replenisher instead of the D-76

developer and I'm wondering if I can use it to develop my film without

the D-76. I've been searching the forums but didn't find anything

specific so I hope you guys can help me out here.

Thanks

there is a very brief guide right here: http://southshieldsphoto.co.uk/technique-e61.html

I have F80 too and i use a Sigma lens (70-300mm F4-5.6 APO DG Macro)which is an allright lens although it doesn't go down to 2.8. but it should be pretty cheap - maybe 300$ - just a guess. check the lens here: http://www.sigmaphoto.com/lenses/lenses_all_details.asp?id=3303&navigator=3

it also happens in Manual exposure mode...

I just bought a Nikon N80 together with a Sigma lens (28-90mm F3.5-

5.6) for Nikon and even after studying the manuals for about 2 weeks

and shooting 2 rolls I still can't figure out one thing - In the

Sigma instruction manual it says that when I use the Aperture

priority auto mode or Manual exposure mode, I should unlock the

safety button on the lens and set the diaphragm value by turning the

ring (the aperture ring on the lens). In the manual for Nikon they

don't mention anything like that. They just say the lens should

always be attached to the body with the lowest aperture (22) set and

possibly locked by the safety button (if an AF lens).

I have noticed that sometimes when I shoot in Aperture priority auto

mode it doesn't let me set the aperture higher than 5.6 ? although

the lens goes all the way up to 3.5. So my question is ? is there a

difference in shooting by turning the aperture ring yourself and in

shooting by simply selecting the aperture value by turning the

command dials? Does it give you more "freedom"?

Please help me, Mike