jeff_walsh

I believe Helix Camera can do 120 film in an hour, at least thats what the Lombard store told me. They have other locations, but you might want to call in advance. Their numbers are available on their website. Hope this helps. http://www.helixphoto.com/home.html

I am using a Canon Rebel 2000, a Canon Elan IIE and a Minolta X-700 with either Kodak BW400CN or Kodak High Definition 400 film, at the time. The results are the same with any three cameras. I've noticed in other pictures the dark areas are similar, even in a shot in bright sunlight or with a flash. Eveything else in the bright areas seems to properly exposed, just the dark areas are "muddy". After reading the replys, I think maybe I'll switch photolabs. The one I used before I my current lab, I did not have these problems. With my current lab, I'm realizing Target should stay out of the photolab business or hire people who know what they are talking about. I've had problems in the past with my current lab...

If I use a new photolab and I no longer have the problem, I'll assume its bad chemicals or processing and the previous mentioned photlab.

Thanks to every one who replied.

I am having a problem with some of my prints and hoped I could find

help here on how to correct the problem or at least solve it. Lately

when I get my prints back from my local phot lab, I've noticed an

uneven "spackling", especially in the darker areas. At first I

thought it was the grain, but 400 speed film and 4x6 prints wouldn't

be that obvious. Then I thought it was my newest camera, but film

run thru different cameras got similar results. So I concluded that

it might have something to do with the processing machine at my

local photo lab. I also thought that if the film was purchased by

mail and shipped by UPS or the Post Office, it could be x-rays. The

image link below shows an example of what I'm talking about,

particularly in the dark areas. Thanks for your patience and

assistance.

Matt,

Thanks for the recommendation on Specialty. I have given them my business and expect my prints back soon. I appreciate your help and suggestion.

Jeff

I understand what Kodalith film is and what the potential images may look like. I'm trying various experiments with film, filters and cameras and I came across some Kodalith film, thought I'd try it. I didn't realize prior to purchasing the film that very few custom labs will process the film. So I was just asking if anyone knew a reputable custom lab that would process Kodalith film.

Thanks for everyones input! It helped immensely in my descision. After researching the various mentioned websites, it looks like Holgamods will soon be getting my business. You can't beat the price for the simple modifications that make sense without altering the camera's characteristics. Again, thanks for all the input. Once I get the camera and get some photos, taken, I'll try to post them as soon as I can.

I hope this is the correct forum for my question. I have some

Kodalith Ortho Type 3 35mm film cassettes that I want to process. I

bought the film before I realized alot of labs will not process it.

I do not have my own darkroom, so I have to use a photo lab to

process my film. Does anyone know or can they suggest a custom photo

lab that can process Kodalith? I live near Chicago, but I'm willing

to use mail order, as long as the lab is in the lower 48. On a side

note, all the research I've done on Kodalith tells me to use an IE

between 6 and 25. Will a roll I shot at IE25 be a waste to develop

because its too fast? Thanks in advance for the replies. And sorry

again if this was in the wrong forum or answered in a previous

forum. Thanks, Jeff.

I'm in the market to purchase a Holga camera. Any suggestions as to

which model (CFN, GCFN, FN etc...), where I should buy it and about

how much I should pay? I've done a little research and I know the S

model was replaced by the N model, but would I be better off with

the Flash model, the colored flash model or the Glass lens model? I

want my options to experiment with the camera to be open an

available but I also don't want to get the flash model if its

completely useless. Thanks in advance for your answers and

responses.

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