ed_kubacki

Thanks for the reply Rick. I started my 'serious' photography in high school with a Yashica Mat and thought it lacking for sports (it was) so I convinced my photo advisor to let me use my dad's Argus C-4. My Dad bought me my first SLR, an Exacta VX-500, for my birthday. When I graduated HS, I used the money I saved working part-time to buy my first 'real' camera, my Canon FTb (still have it). Nikons, back then,were a little too pricey for my tastes and they didn't have a clear path to shutter priority AE (important for sports shooting). Kodachrome was the gold standard and I miss it dearly. I shot many airshows and railroads with it. The slides from 30 - 40 years ago still look crisp and the colors are still bright today. Ed

RIP Tony. Tony, like the rest of you, I have never met in person, yet feel as though I can call you friends. I too, will miss Tony's contributions to this community of photographers that still enjoy the simple art of film and chemicals. Ed

Thanks Rick, it is always great to see your posts. Being the devout Canonista that I am,it is almost blasphemy for me to admit that I have always liked the FE/FM line as much as I do. Working in the Camera store in Roosevelt Field Mall in the the 70's when the were released. I was walking distance Nikon's USA headquarters on Stewart Avenue in Garden City ,NY. Oddly enough Combine Camera Stores never carried much Nikon equipment. We did have an FM, but it was an orphan surrounded by AE-1s and OM-1s. Years later I started collecting the cameras from my 'golden era' of photography, before auto focus and digital; I acquired an FE, FE2 and FM2 and an MD-12 to go with them. They have been a pleasure to shoot. My last roll of Kodachrome was shot with the FE2, played Paul Simon's Kodachrome over and over that day. ...Mamma, they took my Kodachrome away.... <sigh> Ed

You can use only one slot, if that is your reference. I would suggest that you purchase 32 GB CF card when you can and put it in the empty slot and set you camera to the SD as primary and to automatically switch to the CF card if the SD gets full. Ed

<p>Rick,</p> <p>always an inspiration!</p> <p>Ed</p>

<p>Always try a few different batteries, preferably from different sources. The Canon A-Series cameras are totally dependent on batteries for all functions.<br> If that fails to resolve your problem, the either return it for refund or have it evaluated/serviced by a qualified camera repairman.<br> <br />Hope this helps.</p> <p>Ed</p>

<p>It is a nice lens, I have one for use on my OM1n and OM2n.</p> <p>As always, you inspire me with your work.</p> <p>Ed</p>

<p>My guess is the mirror bumper foam is to blame, the foam os over 40 years old.</p> <p>Ed</p>

<p>Don't forget, this was introduced in 1971 with the release of the F-1 system. At the time, other than a few prosumer cameras (Konica Autoreflex T series) and a few point and shoot range finder cameras, this was the cutting edge. Everybody else was building aperture priority auto exposure SLRs.</p> <p>Very cool Jim, that's the on item for my F-1s I still need to find.</p> <p>Ed</p>

<p>An AE-1 is a fine camera, but it is totally dependent on the battery for function. The original packing included in addition to the neck strap, a handy spare battery holder that went on the strap. Canon did that to make sure you had spare.</p> <p>That being said, I would check the battery again, with a volt meter. The PX-28 is a 6 volt battery, but depending which PX-28 you bought, it could have been on the shelf too long. Th original PX-28 was a silver oxide battery (It actually consisted of 4 - 1.5volt MS-76 in a wrapper with + and - terminals). The silver oxide batteries have a pretty good shelf life (>5 years I believe) and had a good amount useful life in a camera.</p> <p>The other kinds are PX-28A Alkaline(same chemistry as AAA, AA,C and you see the bunny beating his drum) and Lithium PX-28L.</p> <p>Not to add to the confusion, but they are also call 544 batteries, depending on the manufacturer.</p> <p>If you buy batteries from some stores, you can pay 8 or 9 bucks for one. However, if you live near a Home Depot you can buy them in the Pet radio fence area for about $2.50. Also you can check online for deals.</p> <p>Why am I talking soooooooo much about batteries, because the AE-1 will not work without one. Your problem maybe as simple as a batch of bad batteries.</p> <p>I have bought many (50+) cameras from the70s and 80s in the last few years and rarely have I had to have them serviced just o use them (especially the Canons, most still have light meters that still work and are accurate!).</p> <p>As an Art Student, may I suggest that you look for a Canon FTb, it is a sturdy mechanical camera that will use the same lens(es) as your AE-1. The battery in an FTb is only needed for the light meter. They can be had for $25 - $50 in good condition.<br> Ed.</p>

<p>AE-1 Black, Power Winder A and Action Case A.</p><div></div>

<p>This past weekend with a fairly new EMD SD70ACe on point. Canon 40D w/ 16-300 F/3.5-6.3 DI II VC PZD.</p><div></div>

<p>Wow,this has been a bigger thread than I could expected. I just wanted to find a subject to use my new backdrop.<br> <br />The Motor Drive MF was a recent acquisition and I had 3 drives and 3 F-1s, so......</p> <p>Of all of the designs, the Power Winder F is the most practical. I believe this is true for not only for Canon, but others as well. The ergonomics as well as the use of the Battery Pack A,make it the overall best design.</p> <p>Thanks for all the responses.</p> <p>Ed</p>

<p>Yes I am glad to see the classic back. It would have been a loss not to see you JDM, as well as, Mike, Tony, Rick et. al.</p> <p>Even tough haven't met any of you in person, I feel we are all friends here.</p> <p>Ed </p>

<p>Lastly, the New F-1. Not to beat a dead horse, but maybe they could have put a little more thought into naming it? NF-1 or even FA-1 would have been a better choice!</p> <p>The Power Winder FN is a step backwards with the loose batteries and rather flimsy battery cover. They should have stuck with the Battery Pack A. Anyway, it was the the least expensive way to get aperture priority feature in the camera.</p> <p>Ed</p><div></div>

<p>Now the F-1n. The Power Winder F was probably the most practical of the bunch. I think nothing of 10 fps on my EOS 1D Mk III, cause I don't have to change film. The 2.5 to 3 fps of the power winder is more than enough for 36 exposures! But the best featureis it uses the same battery pack as the Power winder A from the AE-1! Compared to the 10 loose batteries in the Motor Drive F or the 4 loose batteries in the Power Winder FN,it is brilliant! </p> <p>Ed</p><div></div>

<p>You are correct Jim! I am happy I found these over the last few years. All of them are in very good to excellent condition. I used to look at the Canon catalog as a kid and dream of owning an F-1 with a motor drive, now 45 years later,,,,,,</p> <p>I'm attaching individual shots.</p> <p>Ed</p> <div></div>

<p>Replaced image with larger one.</p><div></div>

<p>Trying out my new backdrop and lighting arrangement, I decided to photograph all myF-1s with the drives attached.<br /> Glad to see the classic site restored!</p> <p>Ed</p>

<p>Thanks Alex! Great shots, hope to see more in the future.</p> <p>Ed</p> <p> </p>

<p>Funny, I like to pickup and use my F-1 (any of them) with my 35mm F2 'chrome nose' just to fell something smaller and lighter than my EOS 1D mkII or 7D mkII with 24-105 F4 L IS or 70-200 F2.8L IS.</p> <p>The FTbs (both the original and 'n' versions) and EFs also seem small compared to my current digital kit.</p> <p>That being said, to keep the weight and bulk down,you should look for the New FD lenses. The nFD 200F4 is smaller and lighter than the original. The nFD 70-210mm F4 is tiny compared to my Vivitar Series 1 70-210mm F3.5 (the original one).</p> <p>Small and light weight, as in beauty, is in the eye (or hand) of the beholder. YMMV. :-)</p> <p>Ed</p>

<p>From my Colorado trip last week.</p><div></div>

<p>JDM, as always informative and interesting.</p> <p>Ed</p>

<p>You don't need a darkroom to develop film (prints from an enlarger is a another story).</p> <p>All you need is the standard "daylight" tank with reel(s) for the size film (35mm in your case), chemicals (available locally sometimes, if you live near a school with a photo program the local camera stores usually stock the basics or on line) and a dark or 'changing' bag. All of this can be bought online from B&H, Adorama and Freestyle, as well as others (Freestyle specializes n this).<br> <br />You put the sealed roll of film and the tank into the changing bag, zip it up and stick your arms into the sleeves do the dance inside the bag. Once you have the film loaded onto the reel, put it into the tank and close it.</p> <p>The rest can be done in the kitchen sink. Hang it to dry and scan it in with a scanner.</p>

<p>Nice shots everyone!</p> <p>I especially appreciate Ed's aerophile photos! Nice to see them, I saw the Red Knight at the Winston-Salem Airshow sometime around 04-08. <br> For me, from June 2013 New F-1 35-105mm nFD.<br> Ed K.</p> <div></div>