noahfactor

Oh, I see where the confusion is coming from. There is a film called "Adox Pan 25" that is only sold in 35mm, that must be what the original post is about and it does seem to be re-branded Rollei. However, my first post is correct with regard to film above that size.

http://www.adox.de/english/ADOX_Films/ADOX_Films/ADOX_CHS_Films.html

Adox is efke 25, made in croatia, not germany. Sheetfilm.be sells NP15 emulsion (made in Germany) in different sizes, which (I believe from comparison) is the same as Rollei Pan 25.

efke 25

Ive ordered stuff from both B&H (which means you can get whatever powder you want) and digitaltruth.com. There was no problem with delievery, but it made the developers quite expensive. If you have a korean friend there are many korean websites that you can order from at a fraction of the cost. Good luck.

If you are in seoul, there are a number of places to buy chemicals. Most of them are located in an area called Chungmoro. If youre interested, i can give you more precise directions.

Efke 25 in Rodinal 1:100 for 12 mins is my standard time and i get excellent results almost every time, normal contrast and excellent sharpness.

push the film. When i pushed fuji pro 400 to 800 and even 1600 I got low saturated, high-contrast images.

Can you attach an example, its really hard to understand exactly what you mean by "pasty".

Im not sure about the scanning issue, but Dilution H definitely increases grain a lot and might be the problem. Ive found that that dilution regularly produces excessive grain with medium-speed films. I think rodinal has about the same grain but with much sharper results.

I cant really help you with the south west. But if your in seoul, then darkrooms are very accessible. Ive been teaching here for over a year and use the darkroom often. The best one ive found is called Boda (www.bodastudio.com). They opened about a year ago and have both black and white and color rental darkrooms that are very clean and new.

 

You can try a search from "amsil" which is the korean word for "darkroom"

Justin, your last comment demonstrates that there is in fact NOT a bias in "the East Coast dominated "big A" Art world." If Galen Rowell got a solo exhibition at ICP then clearly there cannot be too much of a bias in the East.

There is also the fact that with (your example of) Taryn Simon, she has a very clear message. Her art is not just pretty, but has a lot of underlying meaning and almost a philosophy behind it (at least a world-view). While the other photographers that you mentioned dont ('nature is pretty' doesnt really count).

"Pristine landscape" photographs are not popular in the art world today because they have been done to death. Thousands of photographers do these types of photos and they are (artistically) boring. Ansel Adams and other earlier pioneers of photography are considered artists because they were the first to do such things and came close to inventing the genre. A large part of what makes art is originality and it is very difficult to make this type of photo original (not impossible, but difficult). If a painter today painted, say, cubist paintings he would simply be copying other more famous artist (most notably, picasso).

Contact Sheets

I dont really understand why you would move to LF because of quality issues, then use a low quality film scanner. If you want the highest quality, just print it in the darkroom (or use the highest quality scanner if you really cant print).

I like HP5 much better than tri-x. I found tri-x very flat and boring compared to HP5. I have also found that HP5 pushes much better than Tri-x.

Im not sure, but it just looks like she's uping the contrast and stauration.

Just to clarify, Efke 25 is not ortho film, the box clearly states "panchromatically sensitized black-and-white negative film"

Thats true, Samuel, I didnt really notice that. Cheers!

While Delta 100 is incredibly sharp, I have found efke 25 to be noticeably sharper (when both are developed in rodinal). Im not trying to start an argument and I dont mean to be rude, but I have noticed a lot on this site that when people give their personal opinions they express them as if they were universal in nature. It is silly to state that the benefits of a 25 iso film "are of interest in limited situations". While that may be true for the author, it most likely isnt for other people, especially for someone who asked about 25 iso film.

Thanks for your responses. My main question was, when was about the date of a few images that were published in a book by Tillmann and Vollmer. The paragraph in "20th Century Photography" regarding Tillmann indicates that they were created before their famous counterparts, while the captions under the photographs gives 1984 as their date. Frank, I did check google first and while there are over 200,000 hits, the first 40 or so are, a) in German (which I did translate using google) and b) not helpful at all (I'm a good student, I swear).

No, its not an editorial. The book is really a catalogue of photographers of the 20th century. It devotes a few pages to each photographer, there are a few paragraphs and a few pictures for each photographer, that is why it is so short. I dont doubt the neutrality or the scholarship of the author.I just wanted to know more information about these two photographers/curators and their work. Thanks for your input.

I was wondering if anyone knew anything about these photographers. I read a

short description of their work in the book "20th Century Photography" that

stated that in 1984 these men, "created the cycle Masterpieces of Photographic

Art, which proved that some of the most famous pictures in the history of

photography, such as Irving Penn's portraits of Pablo Picasso, can be attributed

to unknown, only recently discovered predecessors."

 

I just wanted to know if anyone has any additional info, i.e., did someone

really do this (and other famous photographs) before Penn (and others) did them?

 

P.S.- I also posted this on APUG.org

James, I think the best thing to do (in terms of image quality) would be to use lenses with larger image circles, i.e., longer lenses, which is essentially all that lowering the size of the sensor is doing.