steven_p

On the D700 the only way to toggle auto ISO on or off is through the settings on the rear display. What I tried to explain is the easiest way for me to change auto ISO "On the fly," while shooting. Pressing the ISO button and using the camera's control wheels does not work on the D700, as it does on the D8xx. Everyone has their own personal quirks regarding which camera & how one uses it as a tool. I still find a lot of joy using older MF, non-cpu lenses. (The older Ai-s 300/4.5, 400/5.6 and 500/4/Ai-s/p are all excellent telephoto primes.) With modern camera ISO noise reduction, the two shorter FL lenses can often times be hand held. I can be lazy, use aperture priority and focus (manually) while working on composition & sharpness. Add a decent tripod, and the above only get better.

The D700 is pretty close to having a cult status. The 300's 700's were made a lot more robust than what later came, (prosumer) bodies. (I'll share a secret trick.....that everyone probably already knows;) In the custom settings menu, put ISO auto, (on/off) on top of your ranking list. Then set the FN button (The one below DOF Preview) to pull up the top item from your custom settings list. You can then tap the button, ISO auto pops up. You can then ether tap the control pad button up or down & tap the center to confirm. Basically, you can change Auto ISO settings without your eye leaving the viewfinder. On my D800 I use the red video button to change ISO or turn AUTO ISO on or off via the two control wheels.

I have been shooting Nikon stuff for 40 years, DSLR's for over 10. I was always a natural light photographer & seldom, in any, relied on strobes. Old dog new trick question. It is simple setting up my D800 using the onboard flash, & the camera's menus for configuring remote flashes. ( have a SB600 and 3 - SB800's.) My D3x doesn't have a built in flash so I've set up an SB800 as a Commander for 2 remote units.) I have Nikon's flash manual. It's a bit difficult to understand and I think I have it configured correctly. My main question: Can I save the remote settings on the SB800, then use the flash for basic on camera i-TTL? (Basically, do I have to reset the flash back to basic TTL mode & then have to reconfigure it again to act as Commander?) I'd like it to store my master flash settings & be able to switch to basic ttL by just changing modes. (I don't want to reset the flash & later have to re program it all over again.) Now what I've written somewhat already confuses me. I hope some may understand what I am asking/trying to do. Everything I approach, has to have a sense of humor.

The 3 & 4 have a small top plate. The 4 & 5's are bigger. I made the mistake of buying the wrong size. if you need a large one, PM me & I'll sell it 10-20% below ebay prices.

Ken Rockwell is well loved & I believe everything he writes. I have a Greek like statue, fountain made in his image, that trickles water in my back yard. It soothes me and helps me find all my F stops that I can't keep track of. He & I are one.

I did not read through all the responses. Best "Cheap" zoom? The old Tamron 24-70/AF-D/3.3-5.6. (Camera data says it's 25mm, but it has the same coverage as the other dozen, 24-? something) lenses.) I have 3 just to confirm that my original was not an abnormality, as it's sharp as heck. It also sells for $79.00 or less.

I was a long time user of a D300. I tried the D7xxx route and it was horrible. For half the cost of a D500, a low mileage D800 is a no brainer. I had to learn the hard way, (avoid "sell me" sites) I am not saying a D500 is a bad camera...it's just that almost everything (The Latest & Greatest) of the past several years were problematic in one way or another. Spend $900, on a low mile D800 from someone that is on the D850 train, & fire sailing the old. JMHO.

<p>I went through several WA Zooms B4 settling. My only choice for better would be the Nikon 17-35/2.8.</p> <p>I ended up with and use often the Tokina 17-35/F4. KR had a fairly good splatter page on WA Full Frame zooms. Mine seems to perform better than his consensus. The only drawback is 82mm filters.... (Which solved itself,) <strong>and don't look at the focusing scale.</strong></p> <p>Later, for a song, I picked up an old Sigma 24-70/2.8, (which also uses 82mm's.) I have a bag of budget wides & normal zooms which are trumped....("Can I say that?") with my Nikkor 70-200/2.8.</p> <p>'Nuff said</p>

<p>I was searching for an old Manual on Nikon USA, it's front page presented this "Thingie."<br> I'm too old & dumb to do the "insert Link." (You can figure it out.)</p> <p>"http://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/action-cameras/index.page?icid=hp:grid1:ActionCam:KM360:071316:KM"</p> <p> </p>

<p>If you can.... take a look at the 16-85 (the old version,) used. That would be an upgrade in many aspects.</p>

<p>JDM,..... (and anybody:)</p> <p>If you dig a bit on the Kodak DSLR forum on DPR, there is a person who has the whole "take apart, & fix it yourself," guide. He/Who/They? even offers a custom firmware (Alex D) upgrade so the camera supports 14 bit raw files.</p> <p>When I posted a quest about sensor cleaning, he responded that it's easier to pull the sensor board & do it right.</p> <p>Many, (or most) people cannot see, or discern the 3-D like quality that the Kodak produces. It's almost like using one of the Google/Nikon filters..... sort of like a mild "Glamour Glow." There's a bit of magic in that oddball, old sensor.</p> <p>(And where in the heck are you going to find a DSLR with a "Made in USA," tag on the bottom?)</p> <p>I realize that most people never even dabbled with film. The Kodak reproduces the "Ooh's & Aah's" of viewing a positive film slide in one of those old "eye peep" viewers on the old ground glass or silver projection screens.</p> <p>If they put that sensor & camera imaging software into an ergo-friendly Nikon, mag framed body......it would be photographic bliss. However I'm fine with the cumbersome blob & it's "No Chimp" display.</p>

<p>You can almost, hammer nails with a D700. Check out Bjorn's site/thread with the broken plastic mount on a D810.</p> <p>I consider my D7100 as a downgrade, compared to a D700.</p> <p>No one ever spends a few $k on a new camera body & complains about it. (I'm a non-pro & happy in 10-24mp land.)</p>

<p>Sorry for the misspelled rant. Here you go, JDM:</p> <p>"http://www.midwestcamera.com/kpro.html"</p>

<p>That.s a basic DC adapter coupling, with an outer shield.</p> <p>A couple years ago, I bought a complete, "used-W/box & candy," from a retired Pro. I love it so much, I got another for backup.</p> <p>Midwest Photo Repair sells what parts are left. (I have a boatload of batteries & wondering how to keep them, as when they are gone......, alas all gone.)</p> <p>The Kodak SLR Talk on DPR, is alive and well. When I read all the bad press on the SLR/n here on PN, I assume this forum is just trying to sell new cameras.</p> <p>The Kodak PQ, Blows Away any, all the 10-24mp Nikon bodies. (My only wish, it were to.... have an Ai ring.)</p> <p>Just my honest opinion.</p>

<p>I have 2, (I think, 1 working & another with a slow or broken shutter.)<br> PM me while I dig through the pile.<br> <chuckle></p>

<p>Does the D610 behave like my old D300 doing live view macro? (I use many macro lenses, both chipped and Legacy - AI/AIS.)<br> In other words, does the D610 respond to "Depth of Field"/DOF preview?</p> <p>I really dislike Nikon's screen brightness compensation mode in lower consumer/prosumer cameras.</p>

<p>Thanks Shun,</p> <p>The "pocket" wide zoom version is a really interesting twist. What raw conversion software is needed for this line of compacts? (I'm still somewhat mulling in the stone age software wise, & run both Win 7 & SL Mac.)</p>

<p>I have a set of "T Filters/(3T/4T/5T,) & I snagged them all for under $30, per. They have been a blessing to carry, however I always carry at least one Macro.<br> I've also had excellent, near stellar results form my $69. (used) Vivitar/Phoenix/Promaster 100/3.5.</p> <p>For my "flowers only" kit I use an 85Pc-D & a Series 1, 90-180/f4.5</p> <p>With your above set of optics, I'd advise getting a set of extension tubes with AF/s contacts. A 12mm tube can transform almost any Nikon branded lens to be a satisfactory for close-up.</p> <p>FWIW:<br> The old version, (nobody wants.... 80-400VR,) is an excellent performer with a 12mm tube. (So should be your 70-300.) The 80-400 is actually much sharper @ 400mm, close than it's standard, intended use.</p>

<p>I wish I could have gotten the rebates from Edward's link when I purchased my 2541EX.<br /><br />I have used mine, problem free, from a D5x00/D300 and even a old Kodak slr/N for close-up (sometimes with tubes) for flowers, buds or blooms work. There are no leg clicks or stops. Basically you must use leg & column extension + tilt for weight distribution (balance your center of gravity) to obtain best stability. It's a specialty,"trick shot" pod for getting under or around foilage, fallen branches, etc.<br /><br />Normal use, column fully extended, I have to hunch down a bit, as it's short. What boggles me a bit.....I've yet to have any stability problems, even with long FL's & heavy rigs. I also have an old, old Gitzo Studex, systematic tripod with a geared head. There is no chance of myself ever lugging that into the woods.<br /><br />It would be a compliment to your larger Gitzo. If you were only to purchase an explorer as your one & only, I'd suggest something else. <br /><br />OTOH, if you are using a bellows for 1:1 or greater, you will even run into stability issues in the best studio conditions, even using the heaviest of pods or stands. Outside? Hold your breath and have a (quick to adjust) wind tent or blind.</p>

<p>Once again, thanks Shun.<br /> I'm equally, enthused & confused with Nikon's latest poke at the moment.</p> <p>(I do like the "bottom tilt" screen for we, macro guys.)</p>

<p>That's too much for "bgn" condition. (I've had problems w/KEH also, in the past.)</p> <p>(I have an "extra" D300 with 25 - 30K that I was going to post in pNet's classifieds or ebay.)<br /> The only thing, it has a non-pristine LCD cover. (Original box, all trimmings/$400 + shipping.) Looks new.</p> <p>At the moment, I have everything covered:<br /> D300/D5200/Kodak slr/N (don't laugh....It's a gem.)</p>

<p>I currently use the Tokina 17-35/F4 on my old 14mp Kodak. It's excellent as far as sharpness & edges remain straight with little to no distortion. The rear element of the lens is actually slightly concave.</p> <p>The only negative comment that I have found is the lens' focusing scale is sometimes incorrect @ 17mm. KR's review is pretty much, spot on. (Avoid looking at the scale and all is well.) The consumer Nikon 18-35 in comparison, has a lot of mustache distortion.</p> <p>At half the cost of a used Nikon 17-35/2.8 with little other choices, it's almost a "no brainer". The few sample pix of the lens on a higher MP body fare favorably, though most were taken less than wide open.</p> <p>Hope this helps.</p>

<p>I have removed & filed the aperture ring on quite a few lenses. (In a previous life, I made eyeglasses.)<br /> The above info is pretty good. My 24/2.8 "screeeeches" when focusing & my 85/1.8 is a bit tight. Don't mess with any type oil or grease, especially if it works.<br /> Loctite:<br /> 1. blue: is semi-permanent<br /> 2. red: is the devil that that you wished you never have to undo.</p>