allyn_saroyan

In Photoshop I cropped the image, converted it to B&W, removed the jet trail and crane, darkened the sky, and in On1 effects I added dynamic contrast, a vignette, and a brown tone.

I would like to know what Lightroom settings folks are using to print on Epson P800 roll paper via Fiery Express. I am using the EFI Unidriver to print from Lightroom. The print job went to Fiery Express where after minutes of processing, Fiery Express died. I can directly print from Lightroom to the P800 and am using Fiery Express ONLY to print on roll paper since Epson told me their driver cannot reliably print 96 inch panoramas and a RIP should be used. Any help from those who own a P800, are using Fiery Express, and print from Lightroom will be appreciated.

I cropped the image, burred the background, removed the graffiti, and enhanced one of the Welcome signs.

Photoshop: I added a curve to darken the sky; darkened the water using B&W adjustment layer in luminosity mode; raised the shadows with a curve, burned the darker areas in the clouds; added an S-curve for global contrast; dodged the birds; cropped the image. On1 Photo Raw: dynamic contrast; subtle vignette.

Photoshop: Sharpen rock area; Boost exposure in rock area;Darken sky; Clean spots in sky; Reduce exposure of brightest clouds; Lightened shadows. On1: Fall and Shy Color Enhancers; Dynamic Contrast; Subtle Vignette.

Photoshop: Partial perspective correction via Adaptive Wide Angle filter; Crop; Convert to B&W; Zone dodge & burn; Blue overly for background. On1: Amazing Detail Finder on crypts; Big Softy vignette; Darken background.

Conversion to B&W plus zone dodging and burning in Photoshop and dynamic contrast, vignette, and tobacco filter in On1.

My adjustments to this I'm were: Curves in Multiply blend mode at 45% on the trees and left building; S-Curve on the sky to enhance the contrast; Exposure dropped ⅓ stop on the bright white areas; Color fill in Color blend mode for the bright white areas; Exposure layer to raise shadows via Blend-If; On1 Dynamic Contrast plus vignette; Cropped a bit off the bottom and right.

My Photoshop processes were: Perspective correction; U-Curve in sky (mid-tones pulled down); S-Curve; Clone out upper right roof; Darken blue in sky; Blur sky. My ON1 processes were: Tone enhancement; Color enhancement; Dynamic Contrast; Big Softy vignette.

The steps I took are: Photoshop: Crop left, right, and bottom. Added a global curve with the center pulled down. Blurred a copy of the sky to reduce the banding that the curve introduced. In On1, I added a Dynamic Contrast layer on all but the sky and added a vignette. Allyn

<p>Added a Photoshop Color Overlay Layer Style in Color blending mode. </p><div></div>

<p>Having just gotten a copy of PhotoLemur, I wanted to see what it would do to "improve" it. Its result was a very nice color enhancement. Also having just gotten On1's Photo Raw, I added 50% dynamic contrast, a Big Softy vignette, and a Bokeh 001 texture. The result is interesting!<br> Allyn</p><div></div>

<p>In Photoshop, I reduced the out-of-focus fence and converted most of the result to black and white. In On1, I added dynamic contrast and the amazing detail finder on all but the sign.<br> The interesting part for me was attempting to reduce the out-of-focus fence with cloning, color replacement, and darkening.<br> I thought the signs should be the focus and hence left them in color.</p><div></div>

<p>I cropped the image, removed the woman behind the player, blurred the background, dropped its exposure, increased the exposure of the in-focus area, and converted to black & white.</p><div></div>

<p>This was a fun exercise! I blurred the background, dropped its exposure, added the Orton Effect, cleaned some areas around the grass, and cropped from the left.<br> Allyn</p><div></div>

<p>I darkened the background and converted it to black & white then added the Orton Effect to the entire image. The sad traveler glows with his inner thoughts!<br> Allyn</p><div></div>

<p>I boosted the exposure, blurred the background and dropped its exposure, added a curve to increase the mid-tones, dodged the face and cropped the image.</p> <p>Allyn</p><div></div>

<p>Beginning with a Field Blur, I decreased the blurred areas by one-third stop and increased the foreground by one-third stop. I added the Craquelure filter at 25% to the foreground (minus the face) and slightly cropped the result.<br> Allyn</p><div></div>

<p>I converted the image to black and white, added some contrast, burned the shadows and dodged the highlights, and tinted the image with the sand color. </p><div></div>

<p>I am an H4D-60 owner and use Lightroom and Photoshop for editing. Lens corrections are included in Lightroom and Camera Raw. There is a plug-in for tethered use in Lightroom as well. I also have Phocus which for me has one function: Updating H4D firmware. <br> Allyn</p>

<p>I blurred the background, converted to tinted black & white, dropped the background 2 stops and boosted the subject 2 stops.<br> Allyn</p><div></div>

<p>My approach was to Field Blur the background and drop its exposure by 1.3 stops, apply color dodge, screen blending, midtown contrast, vibrance, and an s-curve to the flower and add a vertical crop.<br> Allyn</p><div></div>

<p>I isolated one possible subject via Photoshop's Field Blur and lowering the exposure of the blurred background.</p><div></div>

<p>My approach was to emphasize the reason for the image by using Field Blur to diminish the background; lighten the face; convert all but the sign to black and white; and apply a slight saturation boost to the sign.<br> Allyn</p><div></div>

<p>Mike,<br> Last year I backpacked with a D800E and the Nikkor 24-120 f/4 lens and was very happy with the results.<br> Allyn</p>