claude_batmanghelidj

Thanks everyone! Peter, I went to your site and read the entire review. So, in a pinch, I need

to expose for the highlights, right? Oh, and as for the batteries, I ordered a couple of 2000,

or 1800 mA generics from fleabay, not sure if they are Sterlingteck or not, but at 2 bucks a

pop, I'll be getting a couple of those too....

 

Back to the Nikon, I found that on the screen it looked great, but a lot of shots printed, and

taken outside did not look so nice. I can't wait to see how the Canon files print up.

Cheers Jeff. I am actually fooling around with the settings right now. I was really delighted to

discover custom white balance, wow! Also, from reading the PDF manual online, I discovered

that Kelvin is only for use with natural light. The killer thing is that I can simply carry around

a white sheet of paper to get perfect white balance whenever, and wherever...wicked!

 

I am so stoked with this 10D.

I just got back from Turkey, where I spent a week on business. Lots of time to take photos in Istanbul on the way back to Japan. I took my D70 with me, set a bunch of settings to vivid, and auto contrast, etc. Perfectly predicatble results. Why do I have to open up each file (out of thousands) and edit it in photoshop to get these results, if I can program the camera to do it?

 

You speculating on why I don't things the way you think I should does not really answer my question. If you can't explain, why simply criticise?

I am using the standard issue 50mm 1.8 EOS lens, and I have sharpness, saturation and contrast set to plus 1. The images are nice, but still look much less vibrant and saturated than my Nikon. I'd like to know how to replicate that. Any hacks?

Shooting RAW is exactly what I do not want to do. That is why I am posting. I know I can shoot RAW and PP. I want to know what works for others in terms of using the camera as a point and shoot. The D70 was great like that. I dialed in the settings and it was like having a roll of Provia in there. I want to know how to do this with the 10D.

Hola companeros,

 

I jumped ship from Nikon, because I felt that Canon did autofocus better. I was

getting sick of the noise and hunting from my D70. I am very happy with the 10D

I picked up. Cost me less than my D70, and has sure and silent AF and operation.

However, getting the colors and contrast right is much harder than with my D70.

The D70, you dial in some settings and bingo, sharp saturated colors out of the

box, for JPGs. I like this kind of shooting without PP. How on earth do I do

this with the Canon. Also, the Canon images looks soft. Is this a hardware

issue, that I can have Canon fix, or is it part of how the camera processes images?

 

I am open to all kinds of advice, specifically about the 10D, and feel free to

give me any other pointers on how to get the most out of this camera.

 

Cheers,

 

Claude

These are readily available here in Tokyo, and if there is a market for them, I can dig one up. What is the going rate for an F or FT with standard lens in good shape?

Michael, thanks very much for the illustration! So, the mystery continues......

I have a 1st generation 50mm AF 1.4 Nikkor, and I have always wondered what the

grooved slot on the thin focus ring was all about. Anyone know?

I would go a step further and say forget about the zooms altogether. They are big, slow and don't help you improve as a photographer.

 

I would get one prime, such as a 35, 50 or perhaps 20, 24 or 28 and just shoot with that alone for a while. Then, if you really need another lens get one more.

 

Seriously.

 

I was in Turkey last week, and look only a 20 and a 35. I ended up selling the 20 to one of our translators, and the 35 worked perfectly for the rest of the trip. In fact it was better than having a zoom.

The 67 is a monster. It is huge, and worst of all the shutter and mirror cause all kinds of lateral movement and shock for the camera, which results in soft images, due to movement. You need to shoot at high shutter speeds to overcome this.

 

It is indestructible though, as long as you do not encounter an electric or electronic problem, in which case it becomes a paper weight. Also, the metered prisms are easy to find. Quite honestly, though, with all my experience with cameras, I would say just get a Rolleiflex, Rolleicord, or Hasselblad.

 

A lot of your type of questions are really about pride of ownership, and not what kind of tool to use for the job. If that is the case, then you will be much happier with a non Japanese camera. Japanese cameras are reliable, capable, and very well made, but they have no personality, and the optics do not have an original signature. German or Russian cameras have personalities, and you will grow attached to them. This will not happen with any Japanese camera.

 

I have a Bronica GS-1, which I got when I had the same question as you have above. It is 6x7 but it does not have the horrible vibaration of the Pentax. It is extremely smooth and well made, and cheap. I bought the basic camera for around 220 bucks.

 

Still, given the choice, I'd take a Rollei or Hasselblad any day of teh week, even a Leica. If you want a camera forever, that's what you want.

Brian, I am in Tokyo, where these ought to be a dime a dozen, but I rarely stumble on clean

ones. I could well find a new in the box deal on Ebay, but it is such a gamble.

Hey Fred, so you actually have the camera I am discussing, (and not one of the singapore

Rollies, snicker...). Can you tell me more? Is it worth 90 bucks for a clean sample?

Thanks, I've already googled all over the place, but would rather hear from my friends at

Photonet on their personal experience, either with the 40mm QL17 or the 45mm QL19 GIIIs.

I have found one of these for $90, with new foam seals, a crystal clear finder, and a clean lens. Works fine.

Can anyone tell me about this camera. I thought it would be a good cheap alternative to an M6. Still

wondering about buying it or not.

This is very interesting. You would think that the authorities would allow this guy to keep doing his work. Reporting is important from all angles. Stupid, stupid, stupid. These cats in charge just don't understand that what makes America strong is freedom. They like to pay lip-service to "freedom" and "democracy" but in reality they simply want to turn America into a repressive police state.

More is less. I would get the cheapest DSLR you can and polish your skills, and become familiar with the digital workflow. All this freaking about equipment is a waste of energy. You produce the image, not the camera, it is not a robot. I can recommend the D70, or perhaps a refurbed 20D. Then get a couple of primes, such as a 24 and 5o and just practice your skills.

Hi Robbie, I actually have both backs, the 66 and 67. For me it's really an optics issue as well.

The Bronnie is very well made, but the lens that I have the standard 100mm has similar

bokeh to a 50mm Nikkor very harsh. If it had the zeiss optics I would not even be

questioning the issue.

Hi Jeff, that was about what I figured. The Hassy is very nice, but the accessories will kill

me.

 

My GS was only about 230 dollars with back and lens. I have been having a hard time

tracking down a metered prism and grip, so I use a 6x6 back and shoot like a Hassy.

 

Also, I buy and sell cameras so I come across a lot of gear, and it is very tempting to trade

systems. I picked up a 90mm 2.8 Pentax 67 lens tonight for resale, and I was very tempted

to get the 67 body and ttl finder and just shoot the lot instead of selling, but I have owned

that camera three times and each time I found the pictures soft, from mirror shake.

 

Pricewise my motto is "be thrifty" so the GS fits that to a T for me (which is ironic

considering what it once went for).

 

Still, I am not overly fond of the bokeh of the GS lens, and hence the thought of a Hassel in

my future....

Anyone have experience with both of these cameras? How did the GS-1 come out against a comparable

blad, say a 500cm with a standard lens, versus the GS with a standard lens? handling, reliability, optics,

etc? Also, please offer comments on weight and size difference. I am very curious, as I really want a blad,

but the price, electronics and wider format make the GS extremely attractive.

Those are great shots. Any ideas if that is 35mm or larger, and I wonder if he does his post processing digitally or with chemicals? I like the high contrast. I am very interested in black and white, and would love to learn more.

Thanks for all the responses. I really want a lens though that auto focuses and meters with

my d70. The D70's manual focus is useless, and I would rather not guess metering.

Hi, I am looking for a nice macro af lens for my D70, that I can use also on a

35mm camera. I guess a 90mm fast lens would be good. I want one with good bokeh.

Any recommendations. Cheap is good.

Yeah get both

Hi there, I don't agree at all with these guys pushing you toward a dslr. If you want a Leica, get one, for sure. I just had a kid, and I use two digital cameras to take pictures a Fuji F11 and a Nikon D70. Both are great, but sometimes, I would love to be able to control focus, you cannot do this with a digital camera, you point the sensor at the subject and the camera focuses, less control and slows you down.

 

I get great photos with both cameras though, so they do the job, but like you, I would like a Leica M. If you can afford it, get the M7. I had a Bessa R3a last year which is a poor man's M7, only paid $300 for it! It has a better finder, 1-1, noisier shutter, is more flimsy and drains the battery if you do not switch it off after use. If you are at all worried about money, get one of these instead, with a 40mm 1.4 lens and you will be in business. The G Contax is also a good option, probably the best lenses of the entire bunch, but batteries run out and is a little noisy, not mention a pain in the ass to focus, but it does have autofocus so is very fast, when it gets it right.