roberto_lins

After all the confusion of eliminating the 135mm from the RF645 set,

Bronica (Tamron) decided to replace it for the 100mm f/4.5. I've beeen

thinking myself for while whether it's worth to get this lens.

 

The initial specs would say that the lens could focus as close as 1.8

m (5.91 feet). However, a couple of people here have said that they

could actually get as close as 4.5 feet (1.37 m) without focusing

problems. And even get a nice tight head and shoulders. Interesting

now is that the RFR645 webpage says that the 100/4.5 can focus as

close as 1.2 m

(3.93 feet). I don't know what's really going on there, but looks like

that in the hurry of the replaccement process they were not sure about the

capabilities of the lens. Anyway, 1.2m sounds convincing to me. Now

lets hope this new information is correct...

sorry, I meant 110/4.0...

110/4.5 is the new version and max magnification is 1:1. The older one

(100/4.0) goes only up to 1:4.

Hi Guys,

 

Thanks a lot for the responses. I looked in the bottom of the camera

and actually the serial number starts with "1". In this case, I think

I'll have to stick with the 100 mm...

 

Chris, you said that you were looking for some sort of portrait lens. What would be your opinion about the 100 mm for this application? I have done a couple of very nice portraits (3/4 body) using the 65 mm. In another words, how close can you get with the 100 mm ?

Hi all,

 

I bought a RF645 set (with a 65 mm) a few months ago and have

been pleased overall. The price was very good and I suspect that

it was an older model, i.e., with the 135 mm framelines, which I'd

prefer. Is there any way to know if I have a camera set for 100 or 135 mm

framelines? Local shops don't carry any Bronica and I imported mine from

the UK. In the case it's set to the 135 mm framelines, I'd be willing

to get the 135mm lens. It can still be found in the UK. I read

here that sometimes the 135 lens had to be matched to the camera. Would

that still be the case? What's the procedure? Who should I contact? I

bought the camera from RobertWhite, but they don't

carry the 135 mm anymore. It means I'd have to buy from some other shop.

 

Thanks in advance for any comment/advice,

I can only speak about the RF645, which I got a rougly three months ago.

The vertical framing is ideal for me, since I realized that ca. 80% of my shots in 35 mm are vertical nowadays. Whenever I use the square format I tend to print squared. Back to the RF645, last Saturday I printed a 30x40 cm landacape format photograph from the Tuscan hills. A small area in the corners were soft, otherwise the quality is very good.

Data: Delta 100, exposure 1/350s and f/8 (I think!) printed on Ilford

pearl medium weight.

I don't like the fingernails as well. They caught my attention immediately. The breasts size doesn't bother me too much. Anyway, there nothing John can do about them. Talking about what can be changed, I'd go with a more natural fingernails. The photo pleases me overall, but

would like to see it tilting the camera a bit more.

 

P.S.: Frank, I wonder what the h*** where you were looking to not have

noticed the fingernails...

Your camera has a depth of field preview. Press it and check it to see

what's sharp and what's not. Play with the f-numbers to get the desired

area in sharp focus. Reading of a good book is the best approach to learn the basics.

One more vote for keeping the in-line images. Sometimes I fell like not clicking in the links. I know I miss something, but for me is more important not to miss the atmosphere. At home I also have a slow modem

connection, but it's just the time to get a good smell and sip of the wine.

I owned one and is a nice lens, but if it's portraiture you want to do, I'd say get something faster. For what's it's worth here is my contribution:

 

href=http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo.tcl?photo_id=437354

I've bought twice already from Robert White (to Switzerland) and they have an outsdanding service. Highly recommended.

If you're planning to buy a new MF camera don't forget to take a look at Robert White's prices (www.robertwhite.co.uk). A Bronica ETR-Si kit goes for ca. $985 for example. This is way more camera than the 645E, IMO. I have the SQ-Ai and unless your son plans to use it especifically for landscapes (having time to setup the system, etc) or in a studio, I wouldn't suggest the SQ-B for the reasons mentioned above.

Tom,

 

For me, your description of the "what was going on..." scene enrichs the photograph. I keep looking at it and asking myself what can drive us to do something when everyone (including ourselves) are enslaved into "our little worlds..."

645 with no revolvable backs... I'd rather go with a Rollei AF (if I could afford any!)

Thanks for the answers so far. The table is very useful Jack. I thought

about using a +1 or +2 diopter for the moment since I don't have extension tubes. Any preference for one over another, i.e., 150 x 250.

Reasons? Thanks!

I have an opportunity to buy an used S 150/3.5 or a S 200/4.5. I'm

aware that the minimum focusing distances are 1.5 and 2.5 meters,

respectively, what doesn't sound too close. It goes without saying

that it'll be used for portraits. However I like to work with a very

limited DOF. Alternatives would be an used 100 macro (seems too short

for portraits(?)) or a 250/5.6 (too heavy). Could anybody point me out

what are the DOF ranges for these lenses (150 and 200) when used wide

open and at max. magnification? (I have no means to try them out in

advance). The price of a new PS 180 puts it out of question. General

comments on the lenses are also welcome.

 

Thanks a lot in advance,

Ok, here I come to answer my own question and therefore to keep it for posterity. After reading old manuals for other prisms and playing with

the one I got, here are the findings.

 

The dial on the right side has a "lock" lever that (obviously) locks

the silver buttom right in the middle. When unlocked you can press it and one of the three dots in a LED in the left side of the viewfinder will shine. A red

"-" lights up for underexposure, a green "o" for correct exposure and a red "+" for overexposure.

 

The readings take into account the aperture set on the lens (without the need of use the DOF preview), the shutter speed set on the dial and ISO and any exposure correction settings at the film back. So, just set the shutter or aperture and adjust the other until you get the green dot. Precise, easy and nice to use. The image still reverse , but I personally don't mind it. Definitely makes life easier whenever the use of a lightmeter (which I still prefer) is not possible or convenient.

I just bought a used MF finder S, which came without a manual. I've

put it in the camera (SQ-Ai) and it seems to work fine. Aperture is

now controled by the prism. However, I cannot figure out how to use

the TTL meter of this prism. A second question would be what "TTL full

aperture" means. Would the readings be taken only for the lens in its

largest aperture?

 

Thanks in advance for any help and/or comments,

If you want cheap alternatives and don't mind manual focus,

there's the Zenitar MC 2,8/16mm Fisheye designed for Canon

EOS AF. I have no clue about compatibility with the Rebel

2000, but it might be an option. It sells for ca. $200 and

Never used myself, but have read good comments about this

lens (given the price).

<i>>and where's the guy's picture?!?!?

<p>

in my head, but ...</i>

<p>

For a number of times I have only kept the good picture

in my head. I understand the sadness, but, fortunately like you, I have

often also kept good stories in my mind...

and where's the guy's picture?!?!?

I don't know if it's the same as in the SQ-Ai, so watch out. But if you place the SQ-Ai with the lens forward, back towards you and looking down to the top (picture taking position), there is a buttom just in the upper left-side conner (close to the lens). Press it and rotate clockwise and the lens should come out. Anyway, this is just a backup trial, but I think someaone else will post how to do it especifically for the SQ-A.

I've recently entered in the MF world and still in the learning stage.

I was think about to buy a flash for my SQ-Ai in the coming couple of

months (probably Metz). However, I have two Canon flashes that I

thought whether it'd be possible to use together for a multiple flash

setup. For this purpose, I thought about to get a couple of Ikelite

boxes. I've never used such a thing. What would happen? I guess that

the flash would fire in full-power only, is that right? Would it be

possible to transfer the TTL information for the flash? Would there be

any other better way? Finally, is there anyway I could use my Canon

flashes with the SQ-Ai in the mean time (without too much of a hassle,

of course!)?

 

Thanks in advance for any comment,

I'm with David. Get a brand new SQ-Ai kit from Robert White in the UK for your 1,500 USD. (Currently ca. 2,500 at B&H and Adorama).

Not really WA State, but...

 

In case you drive through the Columbia River Gorge, don't forget the Oregon side. Get off to to Moses (highway 30) and drive up to Tom McCall Reserve. There's a nice view from the Gorge. (In the way, drive a bit off the main road and you'll find some nice views of Mt. Hood). During spring the field is covered by wild flowers. On the way there's Multnomah Falls, of course.

 

If you'll be in the Seattle area, Olympic NP and Mt. Rainier NP are probably the two most famous spots.