guy_mancuso

Paul i do agree with your comments on all levels.

Eric , clip tests and bracketing.It was a very normal practice to shoot clip tests and have that processed and than determine if you needed to push or pull the film and even that you bracket still. Kodachrome you simple bracketed plus that was the age of the incident meter, it was almost mandatory to have one. Really digital is simpler, if your off you know it immediately and can adjust.

Metering and the Dynamic range the sensor can produce are two entirely seperate issues in any camera. Almost every camera made has Matrix metering and again has nothing to do with a manual focus or AF issue. These all are completely seperate components to a camera that are independent of each other.

Really digital brings a new meaning to metering in camera with really any system you simply have to pay attention to your histo.

I agree Rene seems that they should have thought of a way when you attach the DMR that the metering system would change to the DMR crop. Maybe not a way to do it but they maybe forgot something there, who knows. I have been pretty successful with it but i can see where a issue with a scene can certainly throw the metering around.

With Matrix metering the R9 is seeing the entire 35mm FF frame and not just the crop of the DMR. Now most most metering systems the value to read percentage is higher towards the bottom center. They do this because of mostly landscape with sky in the frame. Anyway that could be part of what you are seeing.

Okay this maybe a stretch Albert but take your cards that have been through the Epson and actually format them on the computer than take them again and format them with the camera. It's remotely possible that Epson maybe setting a tag on the card and camera formatting may not be getting rid of it. so try computer than camera with formatting. It's remote but worth a try

Albert as i responded in the leica forum and Conrad agreed this one you got me baffled. If the shutter releases than it should be writing to the card. I would call leica tech support on Wednesday and explain this one. i still think it is a SD card but I certainly can be wrong on this one. This one just has not come up before. I have had a lockup where nothing worked and powered down took the battery out and rebooted and all was well but this one has me stumped. Personnaly myself I would go buy another card and try it again and see if it happens again and try a different brand. Leica card comes from Panasonic.

Albert there are several possibilties one is the battery is losing contact or the DMR itself to the body , so make sure that is clean and locked down on all contact points. Rewind switch is set to off, don't play around with this. The other given that it sounds like it shoots is the part that has me baffled and if it is not the buffer, which BTW if you hit it you simply can't shoot until some of it clears. The one area that maybe the potential problem could be your SD card because if you are not getting anything and the shutter goes than this is the area that seems most likely because it is not writing to the card. Remember always format the card in camera and not the computer. Also what firmware is in this camera , if it is the newest 1.2 take it off the camera and reload 1.1 firmware 1.2 was released with a lot of bugs. 2 things you could answer me is what firmware and what SD cards are you using. I am leaning towards the SD cards

Thanks Rene i have no interest in dealing with any of them, they do what they want and if they don't want to go try something than just talk about it than it is there loss not mine but i will help folks that ask for it like Albert and i have posted on other forums with Alberts questions. So I will leave this site and the trolls i gave Albert some idea's to look at and now I will get back to work.

Albert one other thing I should mention that i have noticed with my Nikon D200 is that this camera in default mode tends to underexpose. The reason for this is it looks like Nikon setup the camera for consumers to keep them from blowing highlights and it is actually not a bad idea in a way but you can compensate for it in the menu's. So some of these more consumer camera's maybe setup like this to begin with. Just something to be aware of.

Albert there is another issue that has come up before that some have experienced with the DMR and the R9. Here is the fix some folks have put the R9 on ISO 400 than put the DMR on and it has created exposure issues. Take the DMR off the body put the R9 film door back on and battery and reset the ISO dial to ISO 100 take a few frames empty than remount the DMR. Now if you continually are off by a great some and you see things jumping around than you may have a more serious problem and a few folks have experienced this also were the meter cells went bad in the R9 and than this needs to go into leica for a expensive replacement. When I did all my testing with the DMR and 1dsMKII the R9 was actually more accurate than the Canon 1dsMKII so it sounds like there is something going on there that is not normal. I use A mode quite often on my personal work a lot and really have no issues with compensating with either body or either DMR setups. If you have questions just e-mail me and maybe I can walk you through this. Guy

 

Nels go out and actually shoot something instead of your mouth

Hmmm if you are serious about this than I would suggest you get lights you can grow on and are of more professional caliber , have 250 watt modelling lamps , seperate power supplies , built in pocket wizards, have better light and color output. i would recommend 2 systems Profoto's if you have the budget for it or Dynalites are also very good and carry a lower price tag. Also you ultimate goal is 2 1000 or 2 1200 packs and 4 heads and of course all the acessories that you may need. This is one area that i go for the best you can because they never go out of style and can last many many years. i started with Dynalites many years ago and the last 5 with profoto's. I tend to stay away from monolites because of weight on one stand with softboxes and such get's pretty heavy and with kids around could pose a safety issue than a head and a softbox which would be a lighter setup. 4k and you can get going pretty well with profotos and may even be able to get a whole 2 pack 4 head setup with Dynalites. Also these sytem are very safe if you pull a cord on a power pack that is on, there is no arc that will send you across the room. I have seen it and also experienced it , not fun

Sorry should have posted this earlier it is 1.75 x

 

http://www.brightscreen.com/eyepiecemagnifier.html

Joe i sent your whole message and mine to Jim and hopefully have a e-mail in the morning on it. I will update his thoughts on that. Thanks Guy

 

Also thanks Lawerence hopefully it will help.

Thanks Joe for the correction on the magnification. I will have to see why that happened to my vision with the diopter adjustment. I am normally far sighted so when I first put it on it seemed out of adjustment for me. Than went to the negative side and seemed okay but i will look into that . At first i thought it should be the same but adding the extra magnification made me think different. I will pose that question to Jim , may have a answer for it.

Marc contact Jim at brightscreen@mindspring.com

 

He is a really nice guy and puts out some nice product. I think you will like what he has to offer. he also sells camera's Nikon, Canon and leica all with his Proscreen installed. His website is a far cry from perfect and he will be the first to tell you that but his products are good. He is friendly and willing to help anyway he can. Nice to have vendors out there that go out of there way to make good product.

Jan if i understand you correctly , if you mean does there seem to be a visual space between the eyepiece and the screen than no it seems very close to normal in that respect. It is not like a huge difference like the Angle finder at 2x, it is very comfortable just takes a little getting used too. I have Nikons on my D200 and it seems very normal too me maybe a touch of distortion , Jim's seems better here in that regard

The standard microprism screen from leica is 7mm and the Proscreen is 13mm which gives you a more usable area in the frame for focusing outside the center area plus a touch brighter also and better with the F4 lenses. These are just some added acessories that you can use with your R9 and John I only have a crush on my wife , these are just tools.

 

He also makes magnifiers and screns for Nikon and Canon and is installing a Proscreen in my Nikon D200 also which he will be announcing soon if not already done so.

Obviously these products are made for the R8 and R9 camera's, so if you are still shooting film only these also apply. The DMR is a modular back that attaches to the R8/9 camera's so these products have no direct effect with it but with the combination of a R8/9 and DMR combo. Just wanted to make that clear.

I have been working with Jim at Brightscreen for some products for the R9

and/or the DMR first Jim has made a great 13mm microsprism only focusing

screen for the R9 that is really good , I been testing some of these things

for him and now have 2 of these screens and they really do a great job with

aiding manual focusing.

 

Also he has been working on a Viewfinder magnifier for the R9 and/or DMR which

has a 1.7 magnification and I just recieved the first prototype today and here

is my e-mail to Jim for your benefit, if interested in this product.

 

To Jim at Brightscreen in regard to Magnifer for the DMR/R9 combo

 

Jim just got it looks really nice. It is about a 3/16 of an inch further out

which is good, just barely past the LCD but not in the way. The one area is it

covers the diopter to make adjustments and for me I need to back off the 3

clicks from the plus side going to the negative side. Which seems to me to be

a normal thing because you are adding more magnification. Distortion looks

well controlled, I can see everything in the viewfinder very well including

outside the crops and it certainly does help with focusing, it does bring

things in more and if you went any further it may start to look weird, so

looks like a good magnification. Also since I am going to post this e-mail to

you. I should point out on the right side Jim put a screw down in that will

hold it in place and it is very secure. So far very positive results, hate to

say it but I think my issues with the 80mm maybe gone. I will test this more

for sure. So for those that will ask the question (first let me get my second

order in. ) I think we have a winner, the 2 small area�s though is with the

diopter you need to readjust before putting the magnifier on , so this will

just take a little guess work and just try every click until you find your

spot. You can�t pull out the diopter when the magnifier is on because it get�s

in the way. Also a little hard to get to the viewfinder shade, which I know no

one ever uses.

But it is easy to take off and on and just sticks out just barely past the LCD

which really may help keep some nose grease off the LCD. IT may take a day or

two to get used to it but it does magnify the image and is from memory about

smack in the middle of the settings of the angle finder, which is a good place

to be. Jim great job. Okay will post this entire e-mail for all. If you want

one please see Jim�s site at www.brightscreen.com

 

www.guymancusophoto.com

 

 

 

Second e-mail

I just noticed Jim did put in a screw down hole on the left side , so if you

do use the viewfinder shade a lot now the screw is out of the way. Great idea

Micheal the 15mm 2.8 and 19mm 2.8 have a few issues in that regard. The 19mm you need to actually file down the corners of the hood, also in the very deep corners it does go a touch soft and same with the 21-35 at 21mm.

 

BTW I have been around the world several times shooting annual reports and advertising material.Any other stupid comments where I see no experience in these area's from the trools. For the ill informed I grew up on the East coast. You really need to know about someone before you act in this manner, you have no clue what I have done or what experience i do have in this industry but go right ahead and act like 5 year olds. It is the same 7 people that flood this forum with trash , I see it on every thread and the moderator really needs to step up to the plate, there is more in life to the precious M camera that riddles this forum with fanatics or just trolls that have there hand in there pants to get excited on what crap they can give out. Need to go, have to get ready to shoot some cowboys and indians. BTW Phoenix is the 5th largest city in America.

 

Micheal more than happy to answer any questions or help just e-mail me. I have more info on the 5D that maybe useful for you and your needs.

Thanks Rene and Andrew yes guilty as charged . i am very passionate about my work and this business, honestly this is what i know best and my emotions do run high. Maybe because I care not sure. I don't dare go into wedding forums , i simple would have a heart attack. Gotta run to a gig

Actually it is not hard to do and does take a minute or 2 to make the switch. one nice thing leica did was give you a cover for the sensor so it is protected when off. The way it works to remove is motor drive first than get cover plate and put that on the inside of the DMR and it actually release's the pin (pretty cool) than put away in case . The film back goes on than the smal battery clips back in and your off. Honestly never ran a roll through the camera but it really is simple and fast to do.

Andrew thank you for making fun of my typing abilities. First i am not very good at it and never will be. i think much faster than the fingers will go and 1 a one finger typist is just not the best solution also i have a very fast paced life with 2 kids and a wife and lot's of work all the time , I put in 16 hours a day, be it shooting or working files, billing, marketing and everything that the President down to the custodian does. i simply don't have the time or energy to go back and fix my errors and frankly I could gives a rats a.... that i did, it simply is not important to me but i do take the time and energy when typing my invoices and bids , contracts and other communication with my clients. To me that is all that matters so there if you want to make fun of it , go right ahead. it only means I am busy and trying to support my lifestyle, which I love. Now on this whole other matter , i am sorry it got this ugly and i like to have fun and love photography and the whole business of it, i am almost 50 years old been a working pro since i was 19 and i simple just don't take any s.... from anyone anymore. If that sounds not very friendly than i am sorry but honestly i am a very friendly person and have helped many just not on this site which seriously I wonder why i bother there are a lot of low life's here and for some stupid reason, I feel the need to help people. I should get over that because i do not like this place at all, too much like dpreview and the moderators are obviously on vacation on this thread for sure. i am sure Boris is a knowlegable person to some degree with regards to photography but i work at it every day along with many other pro's that bust there a... to make a living, so you may not like what we shoot but we are shooting to make clients happy and do what THEY want, we have sold our soul a long time ago to make a living. If you guy's want to continue to ride my a... than do it in a e-mail and not here in public guymancuso at cox dot net . This is not the place to go any further with this and I will not be any part of it anymore. it actually is sickening