peter_a__nyc_

<p>My friend is selling me his 5D Mk1, and it will be my first serious digital camera. I want to get good B&W images but I'm trying to keep things simple and minimize post processing. I just don't have time to tweak every single picture, and I realize the images will be inferior. The photos will mostly be published on the web, with only an occasional 8x10 print. If I shoot RAW + JPEG I could process the RAW file if I want, but I'll also have an immediate B&W JPEG. Is anyone here actually happy using the in-camera Mono Picture Setting for JPEGs? Thank you.</p>

<p>I was on Queens Blvd today too, and I'm sure I saw some people smiling! Maybe they stop smiling when a camera is pointed at them...</p>

<p>My AI version is fantastic, even wide open.</p>

<p>I have a very yellow first-version 35mm 1.4.</p>

<p>DAG replaced the front element of my old screw mount Elmar 50mm 2.8 because he said the fog could not be removed. He said the fog is due to the type of glass they used.</p>

I'm happy with the 35mm scans from my Epson V700.

This is normal with some of the old Leica cameras. It is also mentioned in their owner's manuals.

I had haze on the inside of the front element of my Elmar 50mm screw mount lens, and had to replace

the front element. Don Goldberg said that this particular lens element often goes bad like this and

cannot be cleaned.

The other day my friend who is learning English said there is too much humility in his basement!

Chris, the stock negative holders do have height adjustments. Small plastic plugs with arrows on them. Their

adjustment is critical for sharpness.

Experiment with the film-height adjusters on the film holder. I read that the factory default position might

not always give the sharpest results.

I do two things - screw-in metal caps or screw-in metal hoods.

Hello, I have a great-condition Nikon F, serial number 71xx. I recently noticed that the B shutter speed

sometimes is actually 1/15th sec instead. After a couple shots it starts working again. All the other speeds seem

fine. I'm wondering if this is a sign that the other speeds might start failing soon or is this a specific

problem that will only hamper my use of the B speed. Thanks!

Kurt, you're right, but on the RF (and M Leicas) you have to hold the lever in position; when you let go, it springs back to whatever lens is on the camera. That's why some people modify the lens mount, so that you don't have to hold that lever.

Thanks, James.

I would be grateful to know which framelines appear when mounting this lens on

the Hexar RF and Leica M8. Thank you.

Harry, you're a poet.

Is it true that the f/22 models have the newer Red Scale optics? And is the Red Scale model noticeably better?

Thanks everyone! I'll just continue to use it.

I recently noticed that the shutter of my trusty F3 makes a faint hissing sound

at the very slow speeds, including B and T. It is very brief, about a half

second. It reminds me of the sound the capacitor in an electronic flash makes

right after it flashes, but much quieter. What is going on here? Should I worry

about it? Thanks

Don's phone is always busy? I called him three times this week and he answered each time. Plus, he sent me my repaired equipment sooner than we both thought it would be done.

My favorite is Tri-X Professional, which is a bit different than regular Tri-X.

I love my Summarit. The glass is not perfectly clean, but at around f2 or 2.8 it does great. Soft and sharp at the same time. I adapted a hood with a filter step-up ring and a generic hood. I have seen two examples of the aperture blades coming apart inside the lens, but it is sometimes an easy fix. If you need real sharpness at the edges of the image at wide apertures, use a different lens. But it is definately worth exploring the Summarit.

A few years ago a camera was found in the ice from an historic expedition decades ago, and images were found on the film. Anyone know about this?

Thank you, everyone.