Dave16

<p>It's worth what someone is prepared to pay. Having heard about someone winning a good 3.5/5cm Elmar for £25 recently I conclude that Ebay prices fluctuate with the wind.<br> I would check some (reputable) dealer prices. If you sell to a dealer expect to get about half what they will sell it for. If selling on an auction or web site a fair price would be around 2/3rds.</p>

<p>Allan Cobb - lovely shot!<br /> My own offering. My 3-wheeler in August 2016.</p> <p><img src="http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx221/dogbloke/CNV00003%20copy_zps97zsg8xf.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="745" /><br /> <strong>Leica M6, coated M f4/90mm lens.</strong></p>

<p>Thanks Gus - very useful info.</p>

<p>Charlie - congratulations!<br> And a really nice shot too. Very nice.</p>

<p>Hi Rick,<br> I agree with you. This all came about because the image I wanted to capture is in a church. In the UK tripods/monopods are usually forbidden in churches. After several visits I found a technique for getting a consistently sharp image handheld at slow speeds.<br> I now carry a beanbag for hard supporting surfaces, and would use a tripod/monopod as appropriate. In churches and some other buildings however, it can be a situation of grabbing a shot. In our National Trust properties for example (they have some of the best buidlings in the UK), it is actually forbidden to take a pic, with or without flash!</p>

<p>Hi Edward,<br> If a sharp shot at a slow speed was pure chance or luck it wouldn't be able to be replicated four times in four consecutive shots on the same subject and same roll of film. I was able to do that, without any effort or cleverness on my part. <br> There are other variables at play however. I find that something to lean back on, and using the 111c are both necessary before I can shoot slow speeds confidently.<br> To be clear, I'm now pretty confident I can shoot steadily at 1/20 all day long, provided I have something steady to lean back on, and I use my 111c.</p>

<p>Two more from the Leica 111c and 3.5/5cm uncoated Elmar.<br /> <img src="http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx221/dogbloke/CNV00032%20copy_zpsgegb7hen.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="649" /><br /> Moto-Guzzi Twin engine detail.</p> <p><img src="http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx221/dogbloke/CNV00021%20copy_zpsasrlqhkf.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="741" /><br> Elizabethan window handles detail - Ludlow 2016.</p>

<p>Iron-age hut (reconstruction on original site. Llangorse lake - Wales.<br> <img src="http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx221/dogbloke/DSCF0553_zpsmvelwpsi.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="435" /><br> Point-n-shoot Fujifilm digital.</p>

Mid-day on a back-road in Wales.<div></div>

<p><strong>1612 Tomb effigy in Ludlow UK. 2016 (last roll).</strong><br> <strong><img src="http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx221/dogbloke/CNV00018%20copy_zpsu34guduc.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="681" /></strong><br> <strong>Leica 1940 111c, 1939 3.5/5cm uncoated Elmar. Available light, no filter.</strong></p>

<p>Hi EJ, no argument from me on that, and thank you for making it clearer.<br /> I sometimes wat a good few seconds for everything to settle before taking a shot. These days that can take a while!<br />I have found this thread very instructive. I hope others have too - thanks to all who have taken part.</p>

<p><strong>Don't</strong> hold your breath if you want a steady shot!<br> Any rifle-shooter knows that holding your breath speeds up your heart so you get body-movement with your heartbeat. The accepted technique for shooting a rifle is to slow your breathing down, and wait until your heart rate settles - then take the shot.<br> Your point about the extra shots is spot-on Glen. Apologies for the correction, but it is a better way to achieve steadiness.</p>

<p>Hector,<br> All the SLRs that I used to use produced the shake you describe. But the 111c is much easier to shoot at slow speeds than my M6 too.<br> I think that is due to the smaller, lighter body/lens combination.</p>

<p>Not bad Harry.<br> I'll try a couple at 1/15th. Of course we'll have to wait about a week for the film to come back…….<br> John, I think you are right. The math works up to a point. There is some (a little) skill in taking sharp slow hand-helds which is not factored into formulae, and the camera and lens certainly is a big factor too.<br> I'm a rank beginner that this, but I'm surprised at how easy it seems to be to obtain sharp shots at slow speeds with the 111c.</p>