toantruong

I really like the low contrast, subtle colors used by alot for portraits/fashion

stuff like..

http://www.artandcommerce.com/AAC/C.aspx?VP=Mod_AlbumPages.Portfolio_VPage&XX=Artists&L4=2U1XC55BSFX&L5=2U1XC55XX22&L6=2U1XC5J3D7S

(Katherine Wolkoff)..especially in 10/19..13/19 (in portraiture). Now i'm

guessing this is done by possibly using a c-41 film like portra 160/400 NC

pulling it 1 - 1 1/2 stops..natural light only..?

 

Or could be all photoshop!

 

So am I close? I'd like to shoot some print film more often..

Cool thank you. I will give them a call tomorrow. Another question, other than sitting on e-bay for months trying to find a viewfinder mask, is there another solution? Do the Beattie screens with the grids appropriately grid off a 6x6 square?

Has any body ever used this back on this body? I've done a little research on it

and it seems that the Graflex backs will work on the RB. Only problem is that

sometimes it doesn't keep the film flat?

I only have a Yellow 15 filter, will this work for Kodak Color

Infrared film?

How would I go about doing a portrait outside in a party setting?

Basically, in the frame, it'll be a small party with a group of people

but emphasis on one single person. Probably about 12 extras. The

extras will be standing around and so will the main subject but main

subject will be the only person looking at the camera. How should I

approach the lighting? I guess this is a little more complicated than

your typical how do I light up grandma for the Christmas card but any

help is appreciated thanks! I currently use hot shoe flashes with 60"

reversable umbrellas, this may or may not be enough..I may have access

to proper monolights

I went out last night to the mountains, clear skies..the ground was covered in snow, hard icy snow. It seemed really bright out there (most likely snow reflecting light back up), I shot a scene with T-MAX 100 @ 5min, 10min, 15min, 20min and a couple in between 10 and 15. Also shot some Kodak 160T @ around 15min, give or a take. Thanks for all the advice, gonna try and develop the tmax roll asap and the 160T sent out asap.

I should of worded this better. I am not including the moon in my frame. My shot will be lit by the moon. I'm going out to a forest area out of town theres a little valley that looks amazing at night, especially full moon.

I'm going to do some long shutter moonlit photos(possible star

trails?) and I want to do it in BW. Exposure times possibly 30min or

so. What bw film will have the finest grain with the least amount of

recicprocity failure? I was going to shoot with Tmax 100. I'd like to

stay in the 100asa region. So far Tmax or Delta 100, any other

suggestions?

Temp ended up being 65 degrees so I winged it D-76 1:1 for 8min. Turned out pretty well. Very very grainy, I know grain is really prevalent in infrared but maybe cause I pulled it. Anyways, thanks for your help guys, I definetly won't make the same mistake next time.

I understand that, I just wasn't thinking straight. I just really need to know how much I need to pull it in developing time wise. Thanks though.

Sorry but another random thought, I usually process film (tmax, tri-x etc) D76 1:1. I know development times under 5mins is generally not recommended, if I use D76 1:1 (assuming developer is at 68 degrees) and from the digitaltruth chart, I could pull development time down to maybe 6min and increase agitation? Thoughts?

I did shoot everything 2 stops under/over, I could possibly eat it and develop normal and hope the underexposed shots turn out. But knowing what the pull times are would be nice.

Unfortunately, I shot the entire roll like this. Any recommendations time wise on pull processing the roll?

I'm retared. I shot a roll of Kodak B&W HIE Infrared today, followed

all the steps, or I thought I did from here..

http://www.cocam.co.uk/CoCamWS/Infrared/INFRARED.HTM It says with a

red filter, the ASA rating should be 50 so I did set it to 50. So now

i'm shooting the roll rated at 50 in camera, i'm letting the camera

meter the scene with my red filter on so the camera is overexposing

about 2-3 stops because of the red filter ontop of my overexposing (or

maybe not?) my roll of infrared.

 

I guess it all boils down to, did I just overexpose my film 3 stops?

Should I have left the ISO setting on my camera at 200 and let it

compensate itself with the red filter on? If I did mess up, how much

am I going to have to pull it? I feel stupid.

It sounds like it worked fine for you..I have yet to try it but I won't be as worried then. Thanks!

Fully manual is fine I don't want anything to do with TTL. I'm just worried about the two vivitars with their high sync voltages with my 550ex all going into one terminal on the safe sync which is going to be on my hot shoe of the 10D or my PC-Terminal on the EOS-3

Would you guys advise against using the Wein Safe Sync and using (2)

Vivitar 285HV and (1) Canon 550EX on the 10D or the EOS3? I will buy

radio slaves eventually or the optical peanuts. But at this point with

either camera, I plan on using the Safe Sync attached to the hot shoe,

then an adapter to split a sync cord into three so I can connect my

two vivitars and one 550ex. Safe or should I just go with Radio or

Optical slaves?

I'll take some pictures tonight, to avoid any problems cause i'm using the camera on a trip this weekend I ended up getting a EX revolving back adapter and a EX 120 6x7 back from KEH overnighted. Just seems wierd to me that I have to attack the casing onto the adapter then I can attach the 120 645 insert.

In the last sentence i meant to say the guide rails ARE NOT parallel with the rest of the piece.

I just got my RB67 Pro-S body from e-bay with a 120 back and a

revolving back adapter from KEH. This is the first time I have used an

RB, I have only used a 645 in the past so it's slightly differnt but

anyways..When I have the back adapter on, there is no way for me to

slide in the 120 back in. I have to take the insert out, slide the the

round case in, then insert the insert. I notcied the two little metal

locking mechanisms at the top and the bottom of the revolving adapter

are bent down both towards the middle. So to better describe it, the

guide rails are parallel with the rest of the piece. Is this normal?

I don't like renting stuff. I'd rather just make the purchase once and forget about it.

I really want traditional strobes but I didn't want to buy lower end ones and end up buying a nice set down the road, just making it more costly. I just bought two 285's on e-bay for $100 which I can use for skating and what not, about underexposing the sky I probably won't be able to do. But now with three flash guns([2)285's, 550ex], it will make life a little easier. How common is it for people to mix strobes with just hot shoe flashes? I can't afford to buy a three light setup and the whole deal but I can scrounge up the money to buy one decent head. Perhaps use the monolight as a main light and my flash guns for fill and what not. Any other suggestions other than the Normans or lumedyne?

Meaning no more than $150 perhaps for each unit.

I'll look into the Metz thanks. What about the chunky handle flashes?

Hey guys I want to get 2-3 flashguns that I can mount on a stand and

use umbrellas and soft boxes with. I was thinking along the lines of

the Vivitar 285HV or the Sunpak 555. I plan on shooting fashion stuff

(on-location) and skateboarding. I need the flashes to be or close

enough powerful enough to overpower the sun at times so I can

underexpose the sky. I know Iﾒll be losing at least 1-2 stops shooting

with umbrellas and or soft boxes. I shoot digital and film so going

from ISO 100 to 400 isn't too big of a deal. Any suggestions? Thanks!