pa.patriot
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Posts posted by pa.patriot
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<p>Maybe check your JPEG compression settings. All of the things you mention, saturation, contrast, etc are going to be more affected the higher the JPEG conpression ratio you set.</p>
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<p>Just tried Acros in Diafine. I like it. Will be trying some more: ;)<br /> <img src="http://www.frontlinearmory.com/misc/photo/daisies_lg.jpg" alt="" /><br>
<br /> .<br>
<img src="http://www.frontlinearmory.com/misc/photo/fern_lg.jpg" alt="" /></p>
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I've gotten great results with HC-110, dilution G w/Pan F+
I like the look it gives, heightened contrast but still nice tones.
A good ref for working w/HC-110 is :
http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/
I've not had time to scan much, here is a sample of PanF developed in HC-110 dil.G. Photo taken with an old Yashica D. Was pretty much a snap-shot but is illustrative of the film/dev range and contrast qualities.
I'd have to check my dev times but I have always had to add about 15-20% to the listed time with my setup/technique (tank/inversion). My temp was 68 deg. You definitely want to run a test roll before dev anything important.
<a href="http://www.frontlinearmory.com/misc/photo/CS1.jpg"><img src="http://www.frontlinearmory.com/misc/photo/CS1th.jpg"></a>
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"That scanner won't do MF. The least expensive Epson that will do MF is the 4490 (not to be confused with the 4990)."
No, you forgot the 3170 ($100 and change) and the 4180 ($99 refurb from Epson direct) They both do MF cheaper than the 4490. Maybe others those are off the top of my head.
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Well, I don't know which back it is (will number rolls and find out)
and I am sure it is not from my processing as an E6 roll has the same
markings that was done by a lab so I know it is a back.
My question is has anyone seen this particular mark and maybe can
direct me to what part of the back is defective or leaking?
Thanks in advance.
<img src="http://www.frontlinearmory.com/misc/lightleak.jpg">
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Cells available here (For USA)
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062590&cp
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For your purpose I would also recommend giving HC-110 a serious try.
I would start at dilution H, 1:63 (not an official Kodak dilution)
Which gives excellent results with great economy (as far as pre-packaged dev's go)
This link will provide you with a lot of helpful info regarding HC-110 and it's dilutions/uses:
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Epson 4870 seems to be all the rage lately for quality MF scanning on a budget. I plan on picking one up myself next month.
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I did the same thing with HP5, but two stops (100EI)
See the thread here: http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00D01u
I got great results with pulling what amounted to about 30% per stop
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I recently did the same thing with Ilford HP5+ (normal 400 ISO film)
Check the thread here:
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I just hung them up and initial inspection is very good.
I ran it an extra 20 seconds, I dunno, intuition sometimes gets the best of me.
Shadows are fine, density is right on and contrast looks good maybe less than perfect highlights but I can't tell yet.
Thanks again to all.
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Thank you, gentlemen, for all the responses.
I see that your thoughts are as polarized as my own :)
I was initially intending to reduce 1/3 per stop and after reading through I believe I will stick with that.
I am off right now to try Dil.H HC-110 for 5 minutes (11 minutes is my regular 400ASA time)
I will post results!
Thanks again
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Ok, was shooting 120 FP4+ at 100asa and changed rolls. A few frames
in I packed up my gear and noticed I had loaded not FP4 but HP5.
Oops.
Looking around, and at the materials I have available, I can find no
recommendation for HP5 @ 100 in ANY developer.
So lacking that I looked at the numbers on the ilford recommended
times for HC-110 (my everyday developer) and discovered that the times
for 400/800/1600 were all approx 32% (or perhaps 30% rounded off)
apart for ONE STOP of difference.
My plan is to base this 'oops' roll on these percentages.
I normally develope HP5(120&135) in dilution *H* (1:63)HC-110 @ 68F
for 11 minutes. This is listed time for hc-110 dil*B* doubled(for
dil.H) +10%
Don't know why but I have to add 10% to FP4/HP5/PANF no matter the
exposure index and no matter the camera (7 of them) when I process
with HC110 or D76 OR Id11. Which are the only 3 developers I've used
w/Ilford. Anyway - back to the topic.
100 is two stops less than 400 so 11 minutes minus 32% is roughly 7.5
minutes (EI200) and 7.5 -32% is 5 minutes
So this is what I plan on using.
My question would be two fold.
Does this sound like a reasonable plan and before I give it a try has
anyone by chance already shot HP5 at 100? Either intentionally or not
that can give some real experience on this? :)
Thanks in advance
Rich
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Mama Mia!
This is painfully easy.
1) Take note of current exposure.
2) Open camera in darkroom / changing bag
3) Release BOTH spools
4) Manually rewind the partial roll film onto original spool.
5) Turn on lights (don't forget this time to write down the film on the camera!)
6) reload and advance (with lens cap on) to frame # noted in step 1
Should take a total of about 1 minute, maybe 2 :)
Frustration at PhotoPlus with K5
in Pentax
Posted
<p>Rep has not a clue what he is selling. Lens has nothing to do with ISO settings on K-5. <br>
The auto-range was set wrong, or another setting/user error</p>