ed_k__north_carolina_

<p>Classic cameras and aircraft, all you need are some trains and you would have th trifecta!</p>

<p>Thanks for posting the photos, they are great!</p>

<p>Ed</p>

<p>JDM</p>

<p>Looks like a backup electrical generator.</p>

<p>Ed</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have purchased a refurbished T-3 for my son directly from Canon and a refurbished 24-105 F4L for myself thru Adorama for myself.</p>

<p>Both look and feel brand new, the only difference is the packaging was not the familiar red and white Canon boxes. They were packaged in a brown cardboard Canon camcorder box.</p>

<p>Refurbished means they can't sell an item as new, whether it was returned new over stock or demo models, they are checked by the manufacturer (Canon) and have a 1 year warranty. So I wouldn't hesitate to buy one again.</p>

<p>Ed</p>

<p>First, set your current zoom to 200mm, look thru the viewfinder and zoom out to 300mm. If that makes a big difference to you, then your decision just got harder.</p>

<p>For me, it is not much of a difference. If you can't get the shot at 200mm, the likelihood you will get it at 300mm is slim.</p>

<p>For me the 70-200 IS f2.8L is a great lens, not merely a good one, and is one of the finest lenses I have every used. I have used it with a Canon 2X and the results were amazing.</p>

<p>Ed</p>

<p>Having owned and shot with virtually every FD camera with the exception of the T-Series, I can say that the F-1s are great cameras and are among my favorites.<br>

<br />The 'other' F-1 to consider is the EF. It is a contemporary of the AE-1 (preceding the AE-1 by a couple of years and was sold along with it for a while). It is a shutter priority camera that works very similarly to the AE-1, the F-1s require add-on accessories to get shutter priority.<br>

<br />If I could keep only one 35mm camera, I think in the end, it would be the EF.</p>

<p>Ed</p><div></div>

<p>I just received my 24-105 f4L on Wednesday. My 28-135 has served me well (especially on vacation as part of my 2 lens travel kit) for 7 years.<br>

I am giving the 28-135 to my son and I will be using the 24-105 for my primary walk around lens.<br>

People can debate all they want, but the bottom line is they both will make it possible for good photographer to create great images.<br>

The only things that the 24-105 has is superior build and filter size compatibility with the 17-40 (77mm).</p>

<p>Ed</p>

<p>+2 on the 70-200 f2.8L.</p>

<p>You can buy something else, but you'll eventually wind up getting the Canon f2.8L and saying to yourself, why did I wait?</p>

<p>Ed</p>

<p>The 199A or any other Canon A Series flash will they will work fine. With the AE-1 the flash will set the shutter speed to 1/60th (the fastest sync speed) and the correct f-stop.</p>

<p>When the A-series (AE-1,A-1 etc.) came out in the late 70's; this flash system helped eliminate the most common errors for flash photography; wrong f-stop or shutter speed.</p>

<p>Ed</p>

<p>The best find EVER in a junk box at the local camera store was a Nikon F2. What makes it so cool is the serial number caught my eye. It has the year I graduated high school (73) and then my BIRTH DATE (XXX55)!!<br>

I immediately knew this one was mine!</p>

<p>Ed</p><div></div>

<p>I would recommend upgrading your flash. Keep the 430 as a backup or slave flash. Consider buying a 600RT (or a used 580EX II) AND an external battery pack, such as Canon's CP-E4. This will shorten the recycle times and extend the number of flashes before needing to change batteries. Buy a second battery tray so you change the whole tray quickly if you need it.</p>

<p>Ed.</p>

<p>I would keep my EF, New F-1 and my original FTb.</p>

<p>As far as lenses, 24mm f2.8, 35mm f2 chrome nose, 50 mm f1.4, 85mm f1.8 nFD, 35-105 f3.5 nFD and my Vivitar Seiries 1 90mm macro And my 80-200 f4.</p>

<p>Ed K.</p>

<p>1st thing, put in a new battery!<br>

<br />The A-Series are totally battery dependent.</p>

<p>Ed</p>

<p>I had a battery in my New F-1 that checked OK, but the shutter was erratic, not tripping.<br>

My advice is to put a fresh battery in it a see if that fixes it.<br>

Ed.</p>

<p>6D should fit the bill.</p>

<p>Ed</p>

<p>Syl Arena's books and workshops (I went to one) are the best resource for Off-Camera Speedlites.</p>

<p>http://pixsylated.com/blog/</p>

<p>Speedliters Handbook is very informative. </p>

<p>Ed</p>

<p>Try Dwayne's Photo.<br>

http://www.dwaynesphoto.com/newsite2006/color-neg-processprint.html<br>

Scroll down to the bottom of the page for 110.<br>

Ed.</p>

<p>"Momma, they took my Kodachrome away" I miss Kodachrome so much. It is hard to find local processors for slides and it's becoming tougher to find decent C-41. Been shooting mostly B&W developing it myself and scanning it.</p>

<p>I too have rekindled the joy of my FD glass on my original FD bodies (EF, FTb and FTbn) along with F-1, F-1n and New F-1. All the F-1s were purchased over the last 2 or 3 years along the A series bodies.</p>

<p>Even though I owned a brand new New F-1 and sold it in the early 90's; I found the original F-1 to be a new favorite.</p>

<p>Ed</p><div></div>

<p>Having shot high school sports for 10 years (exclusively wrestling now that both boys are in college) and amassing 250,000+ images; I have used several lenses before I finally bought my 20-200mm F2.8L IS. It is simply the best, end of statement.<br>

It is hard to find better build quality, image quality and AF speed. It is my favorite lens for sports, portraits and studio work (not that my studio is anything more than a spare room and some 580EX speedlites, some white poster board).<br>

<br />I tried to save a few bucks, but the end result was I ended up spending more on those lenses in the long run.</p>

<p>Get the 2.8L, you will only regret the weight at the end of a long day, but for me the photos are worth it.</p>

<p>Ed</p>

<p>Second what Sara said. I used her info to construct a modified 283.<br>

I've also found another favorite of mine the Sunpak 411 Auto. It has the advantage of having a manual mode with variable output down to 1/32 power.<br>

<br />You should lso check out Syl Arena's blog and books. His approach to off camera flash is easy to comprehend.</p>

<p>Ed K.</p><div></div>

<p>Without seeing examples, I can only guess....<br>

But, the 550EX is over 10 years old and depending on the condition of the flashtube and capacitor; it could be inconsistent.<br>

I use 3 580EXs and they are very consistent. YMMV.</p>

<p>Ed</p>